DIY Tranny Flush questions (2000)

I have a 2000 Windstar SEL. It has 62K on the clock, and I did the flush without filter at 30K. I did have a garage do this and lighten my wallet
$100.
I am looking to do the DIY flush, and have never messed with any Tarnnys. I have some questions after searching this site.
1) Is Mobile 1 a safe alternative to Mercon V?
2) I am confused at the line you need to disconnect. I understand it is near the radiator on the drivers side. Is there two lines here? Will fluid run out of the other side of the line that doesn't have the hose on it?

I am feeling really ambitious, and really want to try this and replace the filter. I may just go the Mecron V route if Mobile 1 is too expensive.

I have a 2000 Windstar SEL. It has 62K on the clock, and I did the flush without filter at 30K. I did have a garage do this and lighten my wallet
$100.
I am looking to do the DIY flush, and have never messed with any Tarnnys. I have some questions after searching this site.
1) Is Mobile 1 a safe alternative to Mercon V?
2) I am confused at the line you need to disconnect. I understand it is near the radiator on the drivers side. Is there two lines here? Will fluid run out of the other side of the line that doesn't have the hose on it?

I am feeling really ambitious, and really want to try this and replace the filter. I may just go the Mecron V route if Mobile 1 is too expensive.

Any Mobil 1 I have seen meets the Mercon specification but not the Mercon V spec. They are different and your vehicle requires Mercon V fluid.

If it states Mercon V on the bottle then you should be fine. I am skeptical of fluids that claim to meet Mercon/Dextron III and Mercon V
but they do exist. I bit the bullet and bought my fluid from Ford. It was relatively inexpensive.

I have disconnected the upper trans line AT the TRANS on our '98 WS 3.0L, taken the pipe and put it into a bucket and pumped it right out. that works, and is easy.

You can do this a time or three to get more ATF out than "normal", but there are risks on old burned ATF, so if that is what you are dealing with, a single (4 qt or so) change-out is the best. Also pulling the negative battery calbe for 15 min. or so to reset the adaptive shifting helps a lot.

Yeah, what he said but do it twice. After placing the tube output in a large can (I use a 5 gallon gas can), start the car and run it until the fluid spurts from the hose end. Shut down immediately. Add about 8 quarts of new fluid to the trans and don't sweat an overfill. Start the car again to drain and stop as before. Wait 30 minutes and pull the pan and clean it. Replace filter. Replace pan, reconnect hose, and fill to level. Start to car and monitor level until to fill mark. Add a quart.

The first step drains the fluid to the pump level. The second pushes the rest of the old fluid out of the convertor, replacing it with new (yes, there is bound to be some mixing), the 30 minute wait lets the trans drain clean into the pan so it doesn't make a mess when you remove the pan, and the extra quart stops that anying slam into second you can get on a low speed corner such as when you make a 90° turn in a subdivision and step on the gas.

Off to the dealer for a rear air switch.

Works well for me.
Marc
98 Windstar
97 SHO

I as well wanted to change to a synthetic at one point Redline makes a ATF that meets and exceeds mercon V but it cost about 109.00 a case
Will stay with mercon V with changes every 15,000 miles or so. Long as its running well, Worried to make changes..

I was told that Mercon V is synthetic (or at least the Motorcraft stuff is supposed to be). It does not say anything about it on the bottle so I am skeptical.

OK I bought the Castrol Mercron V from Wally World. Does anybody know what line I need to disconnect on a 2000 3.8 Litre?
I fugure on doing the filter beings it has had 63K on it, should be no problems there. Should I get one of those pumps to stick down the tube and suck the pan dry before removal?