98 GL 3.8 - R Front Power Window Not Working

98 GL 3.8L 115k miles

Passenger Front window not operating either by driver switch or by passenger switch. Driver and 2 rear foldout windows work fine. I've tried...

1. Switching out the relay below the steering column with a known good one.

2. Checked 30 amp fuse under hood - good continuity.

3. Disassembled the driver panel switch and cleaned contacts with electronic parts cleaner. Mechanically, it looks sound.

4. Pulled passenger door panel and checked voltage at the window motor - it's getting 12.6v up mode and -12.6v down mode depressing the passenger switch. But no voltage depressing the driver switch.

5. Tried depressing passenger switch and tapping motor with hammer handle.

Am I dealing with 2 problems here? - Driver panel switch defective AND blown brushes or tripped breaker in motor?

What should I try next? Thanks. Doug

Rechecked this am...I AM getting 12v at the motor lead with driver panel switch depressed (and with the pass switch depressed). So I'm thinking blown motor. I've seen a Dorman 742-245 right front window lift motor for $80. Or a Cardone 42340 for $76 w/ $20 core charge. Or a Siemens WL43061 for $78.

It looks like 2 torx-25 bolts hold motor in place.
I'll need to get more torx-can't get either end of mine on the aft side bolt. A swivel torx-25 would be nice.

Is this as simple as unbolting motor and rebolting new one? Do I need to worry about gears?

Siemens WL43061

http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Auto/siemenswinlift.jpg

Now that I see a replacement part photo, it isn't what I thought. I was going to unbolt the 2 T-25 bolts and just replace the bottom cylinder. I wanted to avoid taking the glass out and having to mess with the regulator. Can you just use the bottom cylinder of the siemens? Or would marrying up new motor/old gearing not work?


The window is stuck in fully closed position. Is there an emergency socket/bolt to open a stuck window?

While you were checking for the 12v, did you also verify the ground path? ... i.e., do you have 12v ACROSS the motor, not merely on one side?

12 Oz, what I did was...

Checked lead wires (red and red/yellow) when off the motor - 12.5v when switch engaged.

Checked red lead wire (off the motor) and motor aluminum body - 12.5v when switch engaged

Checked red lead wire (off the motor) and + motor terminal - 6.8v when switch engaged

Checked red lead wire (off the motor) and - motor terminal - 6.8v when switch engaged

Those last 2 are probably worthless.

Anything other I should check?

I had both motors fail within a week of each other. I was able to take them apart, clean them and they work like new. The brushes and comutator (spelling??) were both in need of cleaning. Just pull the motor off of the gear box. It's more work to pull the gear box than just the motor. Also, if you remove the gearbox you'll have to deal with the counterweight spring.

Dan

Thanks, Dan. I'll give it a shot.

Dan, you hit the nail on the head. It sure helps hearing from someone who has done it.
The brushes were dirty/sticky. Cleaned it out good with electronic cleaner - spins smoothly. Shot PB blaster up into the gear assy and then silicone lube spray. Lithium grease on big motor screw. Took some tweaking to get motor back into gear assy. Got it to ~3/4" before seating and hooked up electrical and tapped switch until it seated enough to get 2 bolts to thread. Greased up the regulator tracks real good...it is as smooth as ever.


http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Auto/windowmotor640b.jpg


http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Auto/windowmotor640a.jpg

The motor (and probably gear assy attached) is Ford part# F58B-14A365-AB. I"ll call the dealer for a price - just for grins.

Thanx dougand3 for the images and the information. This will help us all in this topic. I personally had the same problem with the same solution.
Seems to be a coomon problem

Dan, you hit the nail on the head. It sure helps hearing from someone who has done it.
The brushes were dirty/sticky. Cleaned it out good with electronic cleaner - spins smoothly. Shot PB blaster up into the gear assy and then silicone lube spray. Lithium grease on big motor screw. Took some tweaking to get motor back into gear assy. Got it to ~3/4" before seating and hooked up electrical and tapped switch until it seated enough to get 2 bolts to thread. Greased up the regulator tracks real good...it is as smooth as ever.


http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Auto/windowmotor640b.jpg


http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Auto/windowmotor640a.jpg

The motor (and probably gear assy attached) is Ford part# F58B-14A365-AB. I"ll call the dealer for a price - just for grins.

dougand3

I'm glad that I was able to help! I would be willing to bet that your other window motor is about at the same condition.

On another note. How is your rear wiper working? These things fail because the output shaft siezes (spelling?? (gets stuck)) on it's bushing. I took mine apart and got it freed up. The motor was in really good condition. Now I can wipe the rear window too. I still need to fix the locks in the rear gate. I get the door ajar light now and then. I still have the rear cover off of the rear door.

Dan

Dan, thanks for the rear wiper info. SebringYves, probably is common. I checked the Stealer prices on this fix....motor/gear is $171 w/tax. Labor ~$200. I like spending 75 cents worth of lubricants better.

Well, it worked real good - for 5 days - LOL. Pulled the window lift motor last night and it's turning smooth and strong. Now, the gear assy is seized or nylon/plastic gearing is broken/wedged in there. The motor screw cannot move it. Now, I'm getting a clue as to why they sell the motor and gear assy together - they must fail close together.

Anybody ever hear of a rebuild gear kit for these assy?

Well, it worked real good - for 5 days - LOL. Pulled the window lift motor last night and it's turning smooth and strong. Now, the gear assy is seized or nylon/plastic gearing is broken/wedged in there. The motor screw cannot move it. Now, I'm getting a clue as to why they sell the motor and gear assy together - they must fail close together.

Anybody ever hear of a rebuild gear kit for these assy?

Doug

Sorry your repair didn't last! Sorry I don't know of a repair kit. I didn't mention in my post that I had to replace the gear. I went to a bone yard and picked one up. The guy gave it to me because they sell the part as a unit and I was able to find a gear without a motor. I also purchased a dash unit to replace my speedo that was jumping. My repair is still holding. I hope you can get this thing working again.

Dan

Well, I finally got it fixed. Got an new motor/gear unit from rockauto. Pulled the regulator - 6 pop rivets to drill out and 2 nuts to remove - took me 3 hours with dull bits/wrong size bits - just walking all over that door LOL. After you pull the regulator, drill a small hole thru the 2 metal plates near the spring...insert a bolt/nut (i used a #10) locking the plates together or spring will engage when you unbolt the gear/motor assy. Used 1/4" hex bolts (some 1/2", some 3/4") and lock nuts to re-attach regulator. Had to tap #12 threads in the new motor/gearbox because it is ready for pop rivets. The old (OEM) motor/gearbox was bolted in. Also, the new motor is wired in reverse - down is now up. I may rewire it later but it is used so little...

http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Auto/doorpanel1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Auto/doorpanel2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Auto/doorpanel3.jpg

Thanks for your post with pictures, it helped a lot.... I took the motor out and it's shot. When taking it out I c-clamped the tension arm in place, but the c-clamp gave way. Good thing my arm wasn't in there.

How do I put it back together? I have the spring, but where does it go and how is it held in place?

My 2001 stopped working last year hit it a few times with a hammer and it started working again. This year again stoped working thinking on opening up and replacing the brushes.. Or replacing the motor all together. This will helps some..Thanks.. Gary..