2000 Windstar hesitation Problem

Hi all,
My wife's 2000 Windstar w/ 3.8 and ~~62,000 miles has developed a problem that seems like water in the gas, but apparently isn't.
It starts as a pretty serious jerk, as though your foot slipped off the gas pedal for just a half second. Happens at speed, or around town. Now it has developed into stalling at almost every stop. It always restarts instantly and off you go to the next stop. It will idle for quite a while, and then suddenly die. I tried this to see if I was having a trans problem or an engine problem. After 10 minutes or so, it just dies, then you can restart it. I ran it down to about a quarter tank of gas, then put in water remover and fresh gas thinking it was probably water as we have had record rains lately, but today it started acting up again after two days of not doing it.
Can this be an IAC solenoid? I replaced it last year for the classic symptoms assocoated with them and it fixed them. This happens even at road speeds, which leads me to believe it's not the IAC.
How about a fuel pump relay? Can those somehow briefly interrupt fuel delivery at speed and then resume?
How about a fuel filter?

Of course it will not set a code. No check engine light.
Thanks for any help.

Seems that this is a LOT more prone to happening when the outside temperature is over 90 degrees. Last night I put a computer on it (Digimoto) while hooked up to my laptop and drove it around for 20+ miles. I was monitoring MAF and inlet air temp at the time (realtime). Air temp was about 85 and it would not do anything wrong at all, figures. Earlier in the day when it was practically undrivable, it was 90+. The first day it did this, it was 90+ on a 75 mile trip, but the return home (at night, when it was cooler) it did not misbehave at all.

Just to get them out of the equation, replace (new) the fuel pump relay and the PCM power relay.

Doesn't cost much. Why fool around?

If the problem persists ... I would look for cable connections concerns between the alternator and the battery ... as well as all base connections on fuses and relays in the box next to the battery. I am a vocal proponent of pulling all electrical connectors, as well as fuses and relays and lubricating all electrical "joints". Gives you a chance to inspect their condition as the task is done. It's almost a sure bet you'll correct something in the process.

... Also be aware that a number of Windstars were built ('99 - '01) that had a chance of the powertrain harness rubbing against the ac tubing on the firewall. Seems to be dependent on which way the harness was twisted upon installatlion.

The wiper arms and the plastic cowling have to be removed to inspect this area.

[i am new to this site please help] our 2000 windstar is having the same problem to the letter. what was it that fixed it?

... Also be aware that a number of Windstars were built ('99 - '01) that had a chance of the powertrain harness rubbing against the ac tubing on the firewall. Seems to be dependent on which way the harness was twisted upon installatlion.

The wiper arms and the plastic cowling have to be removed to inspect this area.

12Ounce you have mentioned this problem many times in the past and I think it is about time I checked mine before I develop a problem. Does the harness simply wear due to the rubbing? I was always under the impression that it melted but I doubt this since you said it rubs against an aC line. Is it on the passenger side? Can I get to it for inspection from under the car? or is it better from the top.

Thanks

okay, i replaced relays for pcm and fuel pump, and removed the cowl and could not find any wires against ac tubing. i still have the problem. help!

DRW
I can't imagine doing this inspection without removing the cowling. The extent of damage is dependent on which of 70+ conductors is rubbed into. In my case, three conductors lost their insulation/cover and were going to ground if the car bounced just so. The area is on the passenger side, about 12" from the PCM.

Fordguy
Can you give us all your symptoms. Do you have MIL (CEL) lights? Have you already replaced the in-line fuel filter? If you are having the temp related symptoms as Cessnadriver is, you may want to remove and clean the MAF sensor in the intake air filter canister. This sensor is two-part ... one senses Intake Air Temperature.

my symptoms are almost exactly like cessnadriver's. although i can add when the vehicle is started it runs about 1000 rpm and then drops to about 800 runs for awhile then dies[accompanied by a screech] i don't know if the screech is related to the problem. it makes the noise sometimes when running[replaced idler and tensioner and think it is probably water pump bearing. but not sure.]fuel filter and air filter are new. no codes are set. when it dies at idle, sometimes engine will crank but not fire. it is then necessary to engage fuel pump by turning key on and off. there is definitely sound coming from fuel pump when key is turned on. which leads me to believe fuel pump is working. could it be the fuel pressure regulator or idle air control.

A "screech" is most often related to the belt, but can also be related to an air (or vacuum) leak.

I wonder if you have a intermittent air leak that causes occasional stalling but is not long enough to set a code? Have you noticed any relationship of the screech to ... say ... the use of the brakes? or anything else?

nothing seems to be associated with the screech/stall process.it does it with the air on and off and so forth. replaced pcv valve to eliminate that from the problem. i'll probably have to take it to a garage. probably be expensive. i wonder if it would be possible to contact ford to ask if they are aware of the problem?

UPDATE!
I replaced the Fuel Pump relay and the PCM relay and so far the vehicle has run just fine. Even last weekend on a 95 degree day and a 50 mile trip it exhibited no symptoms. Thanks 12Ounce for all your help both on and offline.

Hi all,
My wife's 2000 Windstar w/ 3.8 and ~~62,000 miles has developed a problem that seems like water in the gas, but apparently isn't.
It starts as a pretty serious jerk, as though your foot slipped off the gas pedal for just a half second. Happens at speed, or around town. Now it has developed into stalling at almost every stop. It always restarts instantly and off you go to the next stop. It will idle for quite a while, and then suddenly die. I tried this to see if I was having a trans problem or an engine problem. After 10 minutes or so, it just dies, then you can restart it. I ran it down to about a quarter tank of gas, then put in water remover and fresh gas thinking it was probably water as we have had record rains lately, but today it started acting up again after two days of not doing it.
Can this be an IAC solenoid? I replaced it last year for the classic symptoms assocoated with them and it fixed them. This happens even at road speeds, which leads me to believe it's not the IAC.
How about a fuel pump relay? Can those somehow briefly interrupt fuel delivery at speed and then resume?
How about a fuel filter?

Of course it will not set a code. No check engine light.
Thanks for any help.

Seems that this is a LOT more prone to happening when the outside temperature is over 90 degrees. Last night I put a computer on it (Digimoto) while hooked up to my laptop and drove it around for 20+ miles. I was monitoring MAF and inlet air temp at the time (realtime). Air temp was about 85 and it would not do anything wrong at all, figures. Earlier in the day when it was practically undrivable, it was 90+. The first day it did this, it was 90+ on a 75 mile trip, but the return home (at night, when it was cooler) it did not misbehave at all.

Thank you Cessna Drive.

Karl

Congrats, Cessnadriver!

I think it was DRW1000 who said something like; "We're all anxious here to give advice .... as long as someone else is getting greasy".