Car Sounds like squeaking bed coils

When I'm at a stop light, and it turns green I accelerate and I hear a sound that can be described as 2 people having sex on a bed. You all know the noise I'm talking about. The squeak squeak of a bed coil. What is it, and how can I fix it? :lol2:

u-joints

clunks and bangs usually indicate u-joint, squeaks usually indicate bushings or body twist...

Were you drinking?? maybe you drove through someone's bedroom. :lol2:


2wd or 4wd? Does it sound like it is coming from the front or the back?

Were you drinking?? maybe you drove through someone's bedroom. :lol2:


2wd or 4wd? Does it sound like it is coming from the front or the back?


I have been drinking actually, but, the noise has been going on for a couple weeks now. It's getting louder and more frequent. It's a 1997 S-10 Blazer 4.3L (W) V6 Engine 4X4. The noise is coming from driver front side.

Could be ball joint... When was the last time you did a lube on all your joints, pitman, idler etc? They could be dry... If it is infact the cause, you will most likely have to replace the offending joint because riding that long with a dry socket pooches it.

Sway bar?

here is the thing, I bought this blazer used back in October 2004. It had 161,000 Miles on it, but it ran like a beauty. Still have not had any problems with it, except the Shift timing solenoid, but I think that's why the previous owner got rid of it, because most mechanics wanted to replace the whole tranny. I found on this forum how to fix this problem, and I took it to the dealer who replaced the solenoid for $30.00. Anyways, I bought new tires for the blazer about 2 months ago, and about 2-3 weeks later i decided to get it aligned. (I wasted $510.00 Dollars on Goodyear preformance with 80K warranty, I would think an alignment would have been included) anyways, I graduated with a guy who works at les schwab, and i don't think he would try to rip me off, he's always been a "good" guy with me and all, but he told me that alot of things needed to be replaced, and I should do it ASAP. He printed me up a price quote of what each thing was, and how much it would cost me. This is what the price quote says:


QTY PRODUCT CODE DESCRIPTION AMOUNT

1 59030142 FA1678 Pitman Arm 51.82
1 00680306 Pitman Arms Pass/LT Install 45.00
1 59005156 FA1114 Idler Arm 56.90
1 00680302 Idler Arm Pass/LT Install 27.50
2 53035064 BR930064 HUB Assembly 481.50
2 00680656 Install FWD BRGS -EACH NON STUD 140.00

Now does anyone know what these parts are, how hard it would be to replace them myself and where I can get those parts cheap. I know some prices are for the installation, so I could save 45.00 plus 27.50 plus 140.00. I was told by the same person that if I don't replace these items soon, and I start hearing noises, I should stop driving it and get them replaced, because the car can catch fire. Is this true, or BS by someone I thought was trustworthy?

His prices are lower than some I've seen, but for those prices he better be using either AC Delco or MOOG parts.

You can do it a lot cheaper:

Advance Auto

1 TRW 18842 Pitman Arm........$37.09
1 TRW 18809 Idler Arm...........$24.73
2 Brands vary Hub Assembly...$136.88 each

The pitman arm connects the steering box to the steering linkage. I haven't had to change one out, but I hear it is a bitch.

The idler arm is mounted on the passenger side frame rail and is connected to the steering linkage. It acts as brace and pivot point for the steering linkage. It takes about 30 minutes for a novice to replace.

The hub assembly houses the wheel bearings. It is what the wheel mounts on. There are two, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Depending on your mechanical ability....the first one will take between 1 - 3 hours and the second one will probably take 45 minutes.

I find it kind of hard to believe that these items would be bad and you not know it:

The pitman arm and idler arm will cause your steering to feel loose and the Blazer will tend to wander.

The hub assembly will make a loud growl and have a vibration when it goes out. The problems gradually get worse. You would definitely know there was a problem long before it catches on fire. Mine took about 5,000 miles from the first symptoms before it got bad enough for me to change.

All these items have been discussed several times in this forum. Do a search and go through some of the other threads, some of them have walk throughs.

His prices are lower than some I've seen, but for those prices he better be using either AC Delco or MOOG parts.

You can do it a lot cheaper:

Advance Auto

1 TRW 18842 Pitman Arm........$37.09
1 TRW 18809 Idler Arm...........$24.73
2 Brands vary Hub Assembly...$136.88 each

The pitman arm connects the steering box to the steering linkage. I haven't had to change one out, but I hear it is a bitch.

The idler arm is mounted on the passenger side frame rail and is connected to the steering linkage. It acts as brace and pivot point for the steering linkage. It takes about 30 minutes for a novice to replace.

The hub assembly houses the wheel bearings. It is what the wheel mounts on. There are two, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Depending on your mechanical ability....the first one will take between 1 - 3 hours and the second one will probably take 45 minutes.

I find it kind of hard to believe that these items would be bad and you not know it:

The pitman arm and idler arm will cause your steering to feel loose and the Blazer will tend to wander.

The hub assembly will make a loud growl and have a vibration when it goes out. The problems gradually get worse. You would definitely know there was a problem long before it catches on fire. Mine took about 5,000 miles from the first symptoms before it got bad enough for me to change.

All these items have been discussed several times in this forum. Do a search and go through some of the other threads, some of them have walk throughs.

The hub assembly I was told was more Labor than anything. he said it would take 3-4 hours to do, and that's why it was expensive. Now that you mention, the steering does feel a little loose, and the blazer wanders sometimes when i'm driving. Not much, but I notice it. I will search on how to replace all these things then, thanks for the help. I have a Haynes Book for do it yourself mechanics, so fuck it, I got the time, and I got a car lifter in my shop, so i can try it. If I Fuck Up, then I will have to tow it in or something. Wish me Luck!

I would start by greasing the front end before needlessly replacing parts.

It just needs a good greasing.

10-11 grease fittings on your front end.