Cranks, then dies

I have a 96 Buick Park Avenue. Whenever I try to start the cra it will crank and turn over, but then dies. The way it dies seems electrical. The car just shuts off. I pump the gas to try to keep it going to its no help. I have already tried replacing the fuel pump relay, fuel filter, and 02 sensor. I noticed when changing the fuel filter, the gas was very dirty. Another reason I belive it is electrical is because if I keep trying and rev up the engine as soon as it starts it will come on and stay on. It takes several tries to get it to work. Any ideas on what could cause this?

its something with your fuel pump. keep starting the engine, and after a few more times you should no longer get the engine running. it appears as if your engine is running on whats left in the fuel rail. i may be wrong and if i am, there is an oil pressure switch that takes over when the engine runs. the oil pressure allows the fuel pump run while the vehicle is running. the relay only runs the pump for 2 seconds at a time, these two seconds are when youturn your ignition to run. after that, the pump relys on the oil pressure switch. i have heard that the park avenue has an access hole through the trunk to get to the fuel pump. if this is the case, you can check it out with ease. turn the key and see if you can hear it running

I am curious about the fuel rail theory...why would revving it up solve the problem? It doesn't completely solve it but it won't quit while my foot is on the gas, however, once I release pedal the car will quit.

I am curious about the fuel rail theory...why would revving it up solve the problem? It doesn't completely solve it but it won't quit while my foot is on the gas, however, once I release pedal the car will quit.

Theory here, the dirtys gas you say that was noted when changing the filter may not support combustion at cold start up? And/or more likely the dirt has accumulated at the injector tips, that are tiny enough on their own, so by holding the throttle open the ECM pulses the injectors more frequently thus delivering more fuel to support combustion.

Ultimatley, I think you solved the problem already in the fact the fuel system is contaminted.

Could the gas in the tank be contaminated?? I do not have a discernable difference when I put in fuel treatment and various other cleaners. I am going to spring for a new fuel filter and see if the gas is still bad and see what side is bad. I suppose if gas after the filter was contaminated then it would cause problems. I notice that my plugs are especially fouled. It is very yellow and crusty. The mechanic I took my car said that was normal.

Could the gas in the tank be contaminated?? I do not have a discernable difference when I put in fuel treatment and various other cleaners. I am going to spring for a new fuel filter and see if the gas is still bad and see what side is bad. I suppose if gas after the filter was contaminated then it would cause problems. I notice that my plugs are especially fouled. It is very yellow and crusty. The mechanic I took my car said that was normal.

First off, slap your 'mechanic' upside the head. Now, since I'm relying on what you say, a normal plug s/b clean, with a little bit of whitening and no "crust".

It definately sounds as of the whole system has an issue. The real question is where did the contaminent come from? and, how much of it is there?

In tank additives are ok for a preventive maint. standpoint, but in this case, they will do you no good from the sound of it. What you need is a direct feed cleaning. The engine is ran off the cleaner that is hooked up directly to the fuel rail. This would be done normally by a shop, and I wouldn't recommend the one that you just slapped the mechainc in the head either. You can do it, hawever with extreme caution, the cleaner if not used properly can do a fair amount of damage to the O2 sensor(s) and catalytic converter. You must also prevent it from getting to the tank return system too. All of which is covered in the instructions.

Are you lucky enough to have a access panel in your trunk to get a glimpse into the tank as to how much crud is floating around in it?

I tried replacing the IAC valve yesterday and it cranked good this morning. I did not know there was an access panel to see what's in my gas tank. I will consult the chassis service manual to find out if there is any contamination. The old IAC valve was very oily. However, it did start up pretty good without problems. The idle was slow at first but picked up.


I suppose with mechanics, like doctors...sometimes you need a second opinion.

I tried replacing the IAC valve yesterday and it cranked good this morning. I did not know there was an access panel to see what's in my gas tank. I will consult the chassis service manual to find out if there is any contamination. The old IAC valve was very oily. However, it did start up pretty good without problems. The idle was slow at first but picked up.


I suppose with mechanics, like doctors...sometimes you need a second opinion.

On the access panel, still drwing a blank weither it was 96 or 98 they started put the panel in the trunk.

I think you hit something here as to where the contaminent came from. You said the IAC was 'oily'? Check out you PCV system because that's about the only way oil "should" get into the intake system. Other than that a internal vacuum leak of some sort.

Yeah oily...The car is still doing it although less than before....I am going to check out the new IAC and see if it is already oily. If it is, what would that mean?? I could replace the PCV valve, but would that solve the problems?

Well, as said before. There are only 2 real ways for oil to get in the throttle body, the carnk case ventilation system or internal vacuum leak. Is it verifiably engine oil?

No guarantee it is motor oil..what else could have a similar effect??

New IAC isn't oily. A friend reccomends replacing the MAP sensor. He said it had caused his car to quit before but nothing on the scale of mine. Fuel filter is clean on both sides. I guess it was thie first time being replaced.

Can anyone think of thing that would just shut off a fuel system??? Just like turning off the key....I don't really want to fool with another mechanic.

your problems with your fuel pump. when the engine runs, power to the fuel pump is somewhere being cut. believe me, you need to purchase a fuel pressure tester, and hook it up to the fuel rail, turn the key and see how long you get pressure for. you should have atleast 2 seconds of pressure. then from there you need to start the engine and see how long you get pressure for. these engine had a oil pressure switch that takes over when the engine starts running(the switch keeps the pump running as long as it recieves oil pressure) it sounds like thats bad.

Gocart is tapping things that are related together but, let's look at the whole picture here.

You have (had) oil in the throttle body: 3 sources possible, engine, brakes (booster, if applicable) and tranny (actually trans does not apply in this case, but still listed for general rule.).

I woiuld most certainly say it is a internal engine oil leak, PCV as previously mentioned, check the hoses for signs of oil insed. Now, should the internal leak be bad enough at max vacuum (idle) you could loose enough oil pressure, and the oil pressure switch is doing it's job as intended and shutting off the fuel pump (self defense mechanism before the engine is torn up). A MAP/MAF will act erraticly in response to poor engine vacuum readings.

Maybe vacuum leak is possible but I don't hear any hissing to indicate such. I did notice today that if I remove the oil filler cap while idling, the car will choke out and die.

Where is the oil pressure switch located?

Maybe vacuum leak is possible but I don't hear any hissing to indicate such. I did notice today that if I remove the oil filler cap while idling, the car will choke out and die.

exaclty, that's an internal leak.

Where is the oil pressure switch located?

s/b on top of the oil filter housing, left front of engine bottom side when looking at it.

I'll take a look and see. Why would it cause the car to die in this instance when other cars can drive around without the filler cap on?? Would this be indicative of a serious vacuum leak somewhere else?