Catalytic converter with loose insides

I have a nasty rattle...that I have tracked down to being the insides of the rear most catalytic converter. It is not the heat shields, although I put the oversize hose clamps around them as the FORD TSB states to do (you need to get them from the plumbing department)...as I had already bought them.
Car runs great....with no other problem but the rattle.
I would like to replace the cat's....but they are welded....so I would need to have that done for me.
Anyone else had the loose insides on their cat's?

I looked up the catalytic converter on www.rockauto.com
Shows a Walker "direct fit" for $321.
The link for more information....seems to indicate that this, Part # 50406 includes BOTH converters and the pipes to the exhaust manifold....all 1 piece....with the heat shields.....
Sounds a bit cheap for all that..........

I think the loose insides is caused by the honeycomb struction inside the catalytic converters breaking apart. I don't know what causes this but I think the cat is toast. I have heard that there are 2 tpes of failures with cats:

1) The cats clog and
2) the honeycomb breaks.

I have also heard of people intentially breaking the honeycomb by removing the catalytic converters and shoving something inside. Once the honeycomb is broken they shake the pieces out and now they have a vehicle that looks like it has cats but in reality does not.

(Not an environmentally friendly thing to do)

Dumping the insides is not only something that I would not do....but I wouldn't get away with it here in S.E. Wisconsin. The oxygen sensors would sense the non-function of the converter....and throw a converter code....light my CEL....and make me fail my emission test. They plug into the OBDII port and read your codes. And if you have reset them right before you go......you will still fail....as you have to have driven far enough to relearn the information....for anyone who may think of dumping the internals......

The cats work now....but rattling ceramic insides spells trouble down the road.
I looked on the Walker website....and they state that the "direct fit" converters include the pipes and heat shields....no welding required.....
The FORD list price for this item is over $1600.
I located it for around $1200.
The Walker part is $321.

I have 146K miles on this ride.....so things are likely to need replacing from time to time.....

I have heard of folks "cinching" the body of catalytic converters, using a string of hose clamps around the converter... with an occasional small bolt or something stuck inside the clamp... to stop the vibration.
Sounds like it could work, but might take a bit of experimentation.

I just want to be clear.............I in no way, am in favour of disconnecting any Emmisions device.

I was only mentioning that it is done as a way of describing how easily the ceramic can break.

I wouldn't pass an emissions test either if I was to do that. In fact most people I know that have done that have performance vehicles. I have a 20 year old 5.0 L mustang that is exempt from emissions testing but I still would not do it.

DRW,
I took your original post as being pretty clear against it....
And from reading your very informative posts....you know better then to tear stuff off....for the reasons that I am about to say....

I elaborated on it.....as someone might read it and think...."I could do that.....who cares about emissions"......
And....I think that it would be a mistake....as the Computer would then me missing important data to control the engine.....and....I think that they would end up in more trouble....
LESS performance......
HIGHER fuel consumption.

To your point of the being easy to break.....that is my concern going forward.....that it will break more.....
It is not a real loose item now....does not rattle all the time.....but I doubt that it will just get better.....although that would be nice.

I would really love to use the $321 Walker replacement.....instead of the $1200 FORD replacement....but I thought I would see if anyone has used the walker replacement.
Walker is an old name in exhaust items.....so I am not looking at some no-name brand.

I am thinking that I will take the plunge.....and post my results. I will be doing the repair in better weather than February in Wisconsin....but I am doing my research now....

Speaking of my 86 Mustang I used Walker exhaust components from the cats back as a replacement for my Mustang and I was quite happy with them.

Check and make sure that your o2 sensors arent loose because they will rattle like a bad converter

I have ordered the Walker replacement.
Will see how it goes from there.
Napa "direct fit" was $470
Partsamerica was $370 for the same Walker
Rockauto, $321 as above
Ford, list about $1600, found on parts.com for about $1200
As per replacement instructions....looks like an easy job as long as things are not rusted in place.....

OK, I replaced the converter assembly.
I have posted pictures of the old and new assemblies side by side at

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK


I included a picture of the correct installation of banding to secure the heat shields....if they should work loose....on the original unit....
Buy the bands in the plumbing department at your local hardware store.

When removing the oxygen sensor from the back of the rear converter, the mounting broke right out of the converter shell....with very little force applied. This is the only sensor that is mounted into the converter shell....the other ones.....and all of them on the new unit mount into the pipe. Once I worked the ring off the sensor....I was able to easily mount it into the new unit. There was no issue with the other 3 sensors.....

The Walker replacement has heat shields on the top of the converters only.
The picture of the Napa direct fit replacement was identical to the Walker part.
I do not know if the FORD replacement has all the heat shields that the original one does.

You will need to buy new bolts / nuts for the rear flange....where it connects the the flex pipe.....The original one had threads in the flange....the replacement did not.

I need to trim the tab for where bolt to the transaxle goes.....(this is on the side of the front converter) as it catches on the lip of the tranny pan....an easy fix.

Also, right now...the top of the front converter heat shield is touching the oil pan. I will be doing my fine adjustments when the weather warms up again.....but if I end up with this....I plan to put a little "Manifold Heat Wrap" in there to cushion.
There is VERY little movement between the exhaust system and the engine at this point as the pipes are heavy gauge....very little flex.....and it has no flex points until after the converter assembly.

Basically, the engine / transaxle / converter assembly all move together...They are rigidly mounted together......and right behind the converter assembly is a double flex unit.

I drove about 200 miles.....and all is quiet and smooth....over the bumps and all.

There are no gaskets for mounting to the exhaust manifolds.....the flared end goes over the end of the exhaust manifold....and the flange slides up over the studs and you put the nuts (they are M10 x 1.5 for my '96 3.8L).

If you have an issue with one of the studs.....and are half lucky like me....(unlucky to have the issue....lucky to have it screw out of the manifold so that you can replace it).....
Under $5 each....at the dealer.
I did not find them at Advance Auto parts or Autozone.

Parts needed for straight forward job (no additional problems)....

Catalytic Converter Assembly
Exhaust Converter Outlet Gasket (to flex pipe)
2 Bolts M10 x 1.5 x 30(or a little longer)
2 Nuts M10 x 1.5
Oxygen Sensor Socket (for removing and installing the sensors)
A can of PB Blaster penetrating oil...

The nuts for the exhaust manifold studs.....are M10 x 1.5 So you might want to get a few more of those.....there are 4....plus the 2 I listed for the back flange to the flex pipe.

The threads of the part of the stud that go into the manifold seem to be different.