Yukon Oil Change - Process for do-it yourself

Hello all,

Scanning the boards I haven’t found any threads with relation to changing ones own oil. I have a 2004 6-month new Yukon and I need to change the oil; I am a bit cautious of how I approach this as my experience changing oil has been only with my C5 Corvette which is quite the process.

Specifically, are there any gotchas with doing the oil change yourself? If a previous thread is available I will most certainly read - however, as of today any search for "oil" in this forum results in an invalid search... strange

Any input is appreciated.

Regards,
scubaboy

No glitches-routine except for extra tight filter.

I changed the oil in my Yukon XL Denali- 6 quarts (Mobil1 5-30)
Purchased a set of 12000 lb plastic ramps from Autozone. ($25)
Filter was tight as all get out but managed to break it free. (went back & purchased a good oil filter wrench ($6.00) to use next time.
Installed filter but had to tighten as tight as I could get it + half a turn to keep from seeping.
I Find it easier to drive onto ramps then it is to jack up & install jackstands. (Plenty of room to work underneath.)
Reset oil change electronic indicator.
Next oil change 5000 miles regardless of electronic indicator.

HTH

reset the oil life monitor when your done..

Hit the eleven grease fittings (six if two wheel drive) with some good grease.

Hope this helps.

Hit the eleven grease fittings (six if two wheel drive) with some good grease.

Hope this helps.
Would you care to please explain to a newbie like myself what tools/lubes are needed to perform this job, and where exactly where the grease fittings are located on a '04 Yukon XL Denali? I'd love to learn how to do this myself so that I don't have to spend unnecessary time and money having the dealer perform this...i.e., I don't want to schedule an appointment with the dealer just to get a lube job on my truck.

Thanks in advance!

Would you care to please explain to a newbie like myself what tools/lubes are needed to perform this job, and where exactly where the grease fittings are located on a '04 Yukon XL Denali? I'd love to learn how to do this myself so that I don't have to spend unnecessary time and money having the dealer perform this...i.e., I don't want to schedule an appointment with the dealer just to get a lube job on my truck.

Thanks in advance!

Well For the drain plug is 15mm rench or socket! drain the oil completely,
then remove the oil filter.When adding oil use high quality oil,it will protect ur engine more!It takes 6qtz of oil. Also when putting the oil filter
on make sure u get a good 1/4 turn with a filter starp! If u hand tighend,it will leak! Also check you diff. most of the times its prob. low! u can use a ratchet for that! when cheking it use a l rench, it should barely tuch it! if u can't get a reding, then its low. Top it of with Mobil 1
synthetic gear oil only!

Well For the drain plug is 15mm rench or socket! drain the oil completely,
then remove the oil filter.When adding oil use high quality oil,it will protect ur engine more!It takes 6qtz of oil. Also when putting the oil filter
on make sure u get a good 1/4 turn with a filter starp! If u hand tighend,it will leak! Also check you diff. most of the times its prob. low! u can use a ratchet for that! when cheking it use a l rench, it should barely tuch it! if u can't get a reding, then its low. Top it of with Mobil 1
synthetic gear oil only!
Actually, I was asking for the procedure on how to lube the various grease fittings (the "lube" part of an "oil and lube" job) on the chassis; I already know how to change the engine oil on my truck...but thanks for the refresher course anyways! :biggrin:

Hi guys,
for me it is not worth the savings of $7.89.
I used to do this myself, but my GM dealer does oil, filter and lube for $24.42, using Mobil #1.
Autozone wants $16.53 for the oil and filter, so for $7.89 I do not have to creep around under the truck, mess with the old oil and bring it back for recycling and contort myself with the grease gun. I also do not have to wipe the old grease off all kinds of surfaces.

Here is what the book says, sorry, can not post the picture.
There is more to it than the grease nipples on the front axle and steering.

Chassis Lubrication
Notice: Do not lubricate the parking brake cables. Lubrication destroys the plastic coating on the cable. Refer to the illustration for the location of the lubrication points for the chassis. Lubricate the transmission shift linkage. Lubricate the park brake guides, the underbody contact points and the linkage.

Lubricating Joints that have Grease Fittings
Refer to the illustration for the location of the grease fittings.
Important: Wipe off all dirt from the grease fitting before lubricating the joint. Ball joints should not be lubricated unless the temperature of the ball joints is -12°C (10°F) or higher. During cold weather, allow the ball joint to warm up as necessary before being lubricated. Use a low-pressure grease gun on all joints in order to prevent seal damage.
Apply grease slowly while watching the grease seal. Apply the grease until the grease is seen bleeding from the seal. If the seal expands but you do not see any grease, do not apply any more grease. Allow time for the grease to bleed from the seal.
Lubricate the steering linkage, the upper and the lower ball joint.

Lubrication Points
Legend (for a drawing not copied here)
Propeller Shaft-Slip Joint (2WD)
Transfer Case, Front Propeller Shaft, Front Differential (4WD)
Steering Gear
Rear Axle Differential
Engine
Clutch Actuator
Steering Linkage
Master Cylinder
Transmission
Oil Filter



Take care, Eggert :bananasmi

$24 for a complete change including Mobil 1 synthetic (six quarts, at that)? I dunno of any factory dealership that is willing to do such an oil change using synthetic oil at that price (or anywhere near that)...unless you bring in your own oil, perhaps. You must have some kind of great relationship w/ your dealer if he's willing to do a synthetic oil and fiter change for $24...especially considering that a 6-quart case of M-1 5w-30 syn goes for about $23 at Costco or Sam's Club. My local GMC dealer want's $60+ for an oil/filter change using synthetic oil...

Ok, this may be the first time in my life that not one, but two dealers like me, both Chevrolet, different towns.
Yes, the oil is 6qt Mobil1 5W-30. Oil is 12.54, filter is 3.99 at Autozone, total is 16.53.
May be it is a Connecticut thing???
Take care, Eggert :bananasmi

I'd make sure and keep a good supply on the shelf at that price. Autozone's website it's $5.29/qt ($31.74 for 6qts.)

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C002&UserAction=retrievePartNumMatches&Parameters=MOB 1 5W30



Ok, this may be the first time in my life that not one, but two dealers like me, both Chevrolet, different towns.
Yes, the oil is 6qt Mobil1 5W-30. Oil is 12.54, filter is 3.99 at Autozone, total is 16.53.
May be it is a Connecticut thing???
Take care, Eggert :bananasmi

Ok, this may be the first time in my life that not one, but two dealers like me, both Chevrolet, different towns.
Yes, the oil is 6qt Mobil1 5W-30. Oil is 12.54, filter is 3.99 at Autozone, total is 16.53.
May be it is a Connecticut thing???
Take care, Eggert :bananasmi
I didn't think anything in Connecticut was inexpensive; isn't just about everybody living there fairly well off? ;)

$12.54 for 6 quarts of M1 synthetic? That is practically unheard of here in CA. :eek:

Hi, just the south western part near New York City.
That leaves the rest with quite a bit less...
Take care, Eggert :bananasmi

Hi,
I called the store, that is what they told me. May be the guy was not too sharp?
I verified with the dealer that they did put Mobil 1 in it, they have it in the computer that this is what I use.
I know from a previous oil change that I could not buy the stuff for the amount charged for the service.
And yes, I treat the dealers kindly and have fixed what needs to be fixed, but no extra fluff, they have not tried that on me yet.
That in itself is a welcome surprise.
Hey, I am happy... Take care, Eggert :bananasmi