‘96 Windstar Check Engine Light

Hey I don’t post here often and haven’t posted in awhile but wanted to share this with everyone.

Recently on my ‘96 Windstar the checck engine light came on when my wife was driving and it kept staying on when driving. I looked at the owner’s manual and read several post here about the possible reasons and possible solutions.

Due to lack of funds at the time I continued driving the van and never did notice any difference in the way it operated. I recently put in a new air filter and added some fuel injector cleaner and after a few days the check engine light went off and hasn’t come back on, except of course right when you start it up and then it goes off as it normally should.

Don’t know if what I did actually fixed the problem or not but as I said I never could tell or see that the van was driving any different when the light was on. Anyone had a similar problem that seems to be fixed this easily or should I still have it checked out?

Thanks - I will try that. My CEL light has been on and as I posted earlier the mechanic wants to replace the intake manifold for big $'s. I will let you know if it works.

R Webb

Once the CEL comes on....it will STAY on for a certain number of problem free "cycles". You may have had a one time event that caused the CEL.....which reset after a the number of problem free cycles.

The air filter and fuel injector cleaner are things that are good to do.

If the CEL comes back....and you are in the US, stop by a auto part store (such as Autozone) that will read your codes for free..... Make sure that you get the actual numeric code...not just the interpretation. Most people do not understand the numeric code....so they will usually just tell you the verbal....code that shows up on the OBDII reader...... The numeric code can often be converted into a more specific code. In my case.....2 times....."missfire".....P0304.......and another time....P0301. Missfire on cylinder 4 and 1 respectively...... You can look up the code....or post it here.....and a number of us will look it up for you.

MAF problems can often be cleared up by using a non-residue electronic cleaner to clean it.

I’m also having the common problem with no heat/air in the rear and I’ve seen several postings here too about the possible problems and solutions. I just haven’t had time to take a look into this yet, but I’m sure my problem will be one that has already been discussed. When I get around to checking it out I’ll be sure to post about that too.

I really appreciate the amount of information I have found here as it has been very helpful.


wiswind:

Thanks. If I have any more problems I’ll post it here. If there had been any misfiring would I have been able to tell any difference in the driving or operating of the vehicle? Like I said I never did see, hear, smell, or feel that the van was acting any different.


RWebb:

I hope my problem is fixed and maybe you too will have a quick inexpensive fix to your problem.

Good Luck.

I don't know about the time frame from when the light came on, how long it was on etc .... but if one does not close the fuel filler cap all the way it can trigger a code and will illuminate the CEL. This one usually disappears a few days after the next "fill up".

In answer to your question tasteph........if the light is off don't worry about it. The malfunction is not present anymore. If it comes back the CEL will let you know.

My dad's 96 GL CEL has a habit of coming on and staying on. It has only thrown 2 things an Intake gasket leak (that ford screwed up) and the catylitic converter leaks but that is supposedly the most common problems with these pieces of shit.

DRW1000:

Thanks for the further information. To answer your question the CEL was on for about two weeks, one of the things I checked was the gas cap which was properly secured. After changing the air filter and putting in the injector cleaner it was only a couple of days before the CEL went off and haven’t had any more problems as of yet.

If it comes back on I’ll be sure to have it checked out further and will post any results here for others to read.

Well the CEL is back on again, but still can’t tell any difference in overall operation of vehicle. Odd thing about it is that my wife said the light came back on in the same spot that it had before.

I’m going to take it to the local AZ on Saturday (5 Feb) to have codes read and I’ll post them here for further assistance.

See ya’ then.

Okay, had AutoZone read code for me and it was P0304 (#4 Cylinder misfire), which I was told could be spark plug, wire, coil, etc. but at least now I know what my problem is.

Shouldn't be much to correct, right?

I would check the spark plug(s)..... If you replace, make sure to use double platinum plugs....as in both the center and ground electrodes being platinum enhanced. Last I knew, only Motorcraft and Autolite brands offered the double platinum.

Cylinder #4 is on the front, passenger side of the engine.

Running a quality fuel system cleaner through on 2 consectitive tanks of gasoline is another thing to try.

If your plug wires are original....you could try replacing them.

If you have not had the EGR ports cleaned.....a missfire on Cylinder #4 or #1 is a common indication of clogged ports. I had a P0304 code that ended up being the EGR ports.....Cylinders #1 and #4 are the farthest from the EGR valve....and seem to be the last ports to become totally clogged.....so they get all the EGR gasses....and thus the misfire. The EGR valve is only open while driving....not at idle.

Another misfire that I had, P0301....Cylinder #1, was caused by crud inside the plastic cup that is over the spray end of the fuel injectors.....I had it on all the injectors, but the problem showed up enough to set a code on cylinder #1 first. I had to remove the fuel injectors....and then just a squirt of carb. cleaner cleared it right up.
I am told that this is common on any high mileage engine (mine is over 145K miles). When the fuel spray first meets the gasses from the PCV and EGR, this buildup happens.

The last 2 items are common, but I would make sure that it is not something easy, like spark plug, or fuel system cleaner first. Also, if the fuel filter has not been changed in a while.....it may be due.

Here is a link to some pictures from my '96 3.8L, On several of the pictures, I have labeled some of the items.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

I have discussed some steps to clean the EGR ports and the fuel injectors in a couple of other posts...and the EGR port cleaning has been discussed a lot by people who are more experienced than I am.....

I would check the spark plug(s)..... If you replace, make sure to use double platinum plugs....as in both the center and ground electrodes being platinum enhanced. Last I knew, only Motorcraft and Autolite brands offered the double platinum.

Cylinder #4 is on the front, passenger side of the engine.

Running a quality fuel system cleaner through on 2 consectitive tanks of gasoline is another thing to try.

If your plug wires are original....you could try replacing them.

If you have not had the EGR ports cleaned.....a missfire on Cylinder #4 or #1 is a common indication of clogged ports. I had a P0304 code that ended up being the EGR ports.....Cylinders #1 and #4 are the farthest from the EGR valve....and seem to be the last ports to become totally clogged.....so they get all the EGR gasses....and thus the misfire. The EGR valve is only open while driving....not at idle.

Another misfire that I had, P0301....Cylinder #1, was caused by crud inside the plastic cup that is over the spray end of the fuel injectors.....I had it on all the injectors, but the problem showed up enough to set a code on cylinder #1 first. I had to remove the fuel injectors....and then just a squirt of carb. cleaner cleared it right up.
I am told that this is common on any high mileage engine (mine is over 145K miles). When the fuel spray first meets the gasses from the PCV and EGR, this buildup happens.

The last 2 items are common, but I would make sure that it is not something easy, like spark plug, or fuel system cleaner first. Also, if the fuel filter has not been changed in a while.....it may be due.

Here is a link to some pictures from my '96 3.8L, On several of the pictures, I have labeled some of the items.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

I have discussed some steps to clean the EGR ports and the fuel injectors in a couple of other posts...and the EGR port cleaning has been discussed a lot by people who are more experienced than I am.....

I think Wiswind has said it all. I am really surprised that you are not experiencing drivability issues though

Well I would like to thank everyone for all the advice given here, it was very helpful. I had the van taken to a shop had a major tune-up & oil change. While the van was in the shop had the brakes inspected and it was found out that there was some brake work needed too. Cost a little more than I expected to have everything done but now it’s running very well and I’m very pleased with the place that worked on it. Had just recently taken my Taurus to them for brake work too, but unfortunately the day I dropped the van off to be worked on upon arrival back at where I live I noticed transmission fluid leaking from the Taurus. So now I’m going to have to have that looked at, hopefully that won’t be too much.

After having all of the above mentioned work completed, after a few weeks the CEL came back on a few more times and then went back off. After the second time of the CEL coming on and after these repairs I had the codes read and again it was showing a misfire on #4. Then there was a rattling noise that began and it was thought that the catalytic converter may be bad.

Upon some further research here I found a post from wiswind on about the same topic and from reading that post I was able to purchase a catalytic converter from Advance Auto for just over $300 and had Midas install it for right around $100.

My thanks again to those who are so knowledgeable on these forums.

Haven’t posted on here in awhile but now I’m having some more problems. The CEL is back on again and stays on constantly except every once in awhile will flash. I haven’t had it back in the shop to have the codes read yet but I still can not tell any change in the way the vehicle operates.

Also a little ways back I had mentioned about the rear AC not working properly, blowing but no air out of the upper/lower vents which sounds like it mat be a problem with the blend door that I’ve seen mentioned several times in the forums here. Yes I know I said in that earlier post I was going to check into that but you know how things go, just haven’t got around to doing it yet. But now the front air seems to be doing the same thing, blower is running but no air from the vents. It will blow from floor or defrost and if you turn the heat on it blows out like it should from the vents. So this sounds to me like a problem with the front blend door, now some of what I’ve been reading seem to indicate these blend doors are vacuum operated. I have also seen where a vacuum leak might give me a similar code for a misfire.

If I were to be having a vacuum leak that is causing the CEL to illuminate and interfering with the normal operation of the blend doors what is the easiest, quickest way to check this?

After reading some more post here, today I looked at my Air Filter and discovered some oil residue around it. Now I’m obviously not that mechanically inclined but I felt that there should not be oil in the area of the Air Filter, so I decided to search the forums for some more information. I found the following to be of interest as it describes almost in detail to what I discovered...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=414262&highlight=oil+leak

No, a stop leak will not help.
Take a look at the throttle body...is there oil on the bottom of it?.....I have that on my '96 3.8L. This is from the PCV line.
If I spray Sea Foam in the PCV line....I always get some back into the flexible air intake hose.
Make sure that you have a Motorcraft brand of PCV valve, as some aftermarket types permit too much air to pass through...with pulls excessive oil with it. If you have a motorcraft brand PCV valve, do not do anything to reduce the PCV flow....as that flow it taking contaminates out of the crankcase....keeping things clean in there.

On the '96 3.8L, the PCV valve is in the rear valve cover....and the air flows in through the front valve cover.

If you are getting oil in through the plastic line that connects to the rear of the flexible air intake hose.....about 1/2 way between the throttle body and the MAF....then you most likely do not have PCV flow....and will need to correct that.

I have considered installing a unit to remove the oil from the air flowing through the PCV line...without reducing the flow.

Take note of the fact that a number of lines tap into the line that goes from the top of the upper intake manifold....next to the throttle body......and the PCV valve....Including the EGR vaccum source, and the charcoal canister purge.........

I did install an aftermarket PCV valve sometime back after I had made some of the other post here. I’ve got a Motorcraft PCV on order through O’Rielly’s and it should be here tomorrow and for only $5.49, so if this clears up my CEL I’ll be very happy. Still going to have to tackle that potential problem with the blend doors on the front/rear AC too, but at least with the vast amounts of information and some very detailed post I just think I might be able to handle this task too.

Many thanks.

I may have missed it....but did you clean the EGR ports inside the lower intake manifold? You have to take the upper intake manifold off to get to it......
That would be the most likely cause of the misfire on cylinder #4 at this point.

wiswind, no I have not cleaned the EGR ports yet. I just recent discovered the oil residue in the air filter area and from reading your other post I’m going to be changing the PVC valve tomorrow and clean out all the oil residue throughout the assembly that houses the air filter etc. I’ve got a Motorcraft one and will see if this makes any changes first then I’ll delve into the other if needed. I do really appreciate all the information you have shared with your experiences with you ‘96 Windstar. I’ll be sure to post results from my little venture no matter what the outcome...

After reading some more post here, today I looked at my Air Filter and discovered some oil residue around it....

...I did install an aftermarket PCV valve sometime back after I had made some of the other post here. I’ve got a Motorcraft PCV on order through O’Rielly’s and it should be here tomorrow and for only $5.49, so if this clears up my CEL I’ll be very happy...

Okay, just wanted to pass on that after I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned out all of the oil residue and been driving about a week I have not as of yet had anymore CEL illuminations. I’m still going to give it a few more days just in case, but if that little $5.49 part cleared up my problems then I will be truly happy.

I’m still going to give it a few more days just in case...

Well... CEL is back on... but thanks to the vast amount of information here I have some more ideas on what needs to be checked.

I may have missed it....but did you clean the EGR ports inside the lower intake manifold? You have to take the upper intake manifold off to get to it......
That would be the most likely cause of the misfire on cylinder #4 at this point.

I’ve been working on my ‘93 Taurus LX with 3.8L engine, removing the starter but I’m going to be looking at cleaning the EGR ports on the ‘96 Windstar too now...

The amounts of valuable information with pictures that you have provided have been really helpful and have given me some confidence in doing some of the repair work myself now.

And speaking of that starter removal ‘93 Taurus LX 3.8L, just a quick question(s) for a little bit of help and feedback... (I posted this in the Taurus forum but thought I’d post here also just for some more input.)

I already have the negative battery cable disconnected, taken off the protective cover over the terminals, disconnected the wire from one terminal, the smaller ignition wire has been disconnected. Now on the opposite side I have located two bolts, one has what appears to grounding wires attached with a nut/bolt stud and the other is just a bolt. I have removed the bolt but I am having problems with the one that has the grounding wire...

First question that I have, Is this the correct bolt that I should be removing to take the starter out? I have a Chilton manual for my ‘96 Windstar and was referencing it, now I know it is for a different vehicle and the connections, etc. may be a little different but since both vehicles have a 3.8L engine I thought there may be some similarities in the removal of the starter. My wife has found me a Haynes manual for the Taurus on ebay and it should be here in a few more days but I thought I’d check here too since there is a valuable source of information and help here.

When I first tried to remove the bolt I was using some old tools of mine which were cheap and actually broke the adapter on the ratchet I was using. I have since purchased a Craftsman socket set and removed the bolt with no problems. If the other nut/bolt turns out to be the correct bolt to remove the starter the other problem I’m having is that it appears that this nut may be slightly stripped. I had originally thought it may just be hard to turn and sprayed some lubricant and when I was using the ratchet on it I noticed the socket slipping and then felt some rough edges on the nut itself. I have a “Bolt-Out” which is supposed to help remove stripped, rusted bolts/nuts but the problem with that is that when I place it in the socket adapter it is too big for the confined space and makes it sit slightly sideways and doesn’t fit properly over the nut. I’ve tried an open end wrench with the “Bolt-Out” but again it’s to big for the small area. I have a universal-joint type adapter also for my ratchet set but as of yet had no luck in removing this nut/bolt. Any ideas on this?

Our check light came on and we took it to auto zone y said it was a mis fire on number 4. So we changed the spark plugs than we had to change the ignition coil.We went bk to the auto zone they removed the light from blinking than 3 days later it was towed into the shop my head gasket was blown. Ford has recalled the 95 windstars but not the 96 ones so beware it will cost about 12 to 18 houndred to fix this one. I hope no one has this much problem with theirs.

Our check light came on and we took it to auto zone y said it was a mis fire on number 4. So we changed the spark plugs than we had to change the ignition coil.We went bk to the auto zone they removed the light from blinking than 3 days later it was towed into the shop my head gasket was blown. Ford has recalled the 95 windstars but not the 96 ones so beware it will cost about 12 to 18 houndred to fix this one. I hope no one has this much problem with theirs.

Sorry to hear you had so much problems, my '96 has 94,000 miles on it and it really seems to be a good vehicle. I just completed the EGR port cleaning... (See this post about it.)

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=481502