where is Throttle Position Sensor at?

hi, guys i was wondering if anyone had a pic of where the Throttle Position Sensor is located, on a 2002 maxima. i have a pic of a 99 one but it is not the same place for the 2002 or if it is i cant find it.
well if any one can help please leave a message.
thanx

hi, guys i was wondering if anyone had a pic of where the Throttle Position Sensor is located, on a 2002 maxima. i have a pic of a 99 one but it is not the same place for the 2002 or if it is i cant find it.
well if any one can help please leave a message.
thanx

Typically the TPS is in the end of TB axle, Throttle Body controls intake tubing airflow.

ok thnax, i found the TPS, but the sensor is sealed and there are no screws to open. it is just seald in a plastic box. do u guys know how to check and see if Tps is working correctly? or should i just replace it?

ok thnax, i found the TPS, but the sensor is sealed and there are no screws to open. it is just seald in a plastic box. do u guys know how to check and see if Tps is working correctly? or should i just replace it?


There are switches plus potentiometer. See the 'craptons' online manual if it gives the specs for u model. At my web page no1 is the link... Potentiometer should have linear response, thats more important than aboslute reading.

For TPS innards see: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6

If u suspect it, I would drill/punch with solder iron a hole and squeeze liberally contact cleaner in. Let it flow down and dry, test. If ok, would not buy new.

But tst other sensors also.

Question
1.Why do you want to replace {or mess with} the TPS.
2.What kind of emission warranty do you have.In Canada it's 5 years.
BTW. don't drill holes in any sensor

well the thing is that i dont want to make any holse, the only thing is that i want to make sure that it is not working proply so i would change the whole thing. o by the way there is a small screw at the bottom of the TPS that i have no idea what it doest. couild that be for tuning the TPS, i mean may be the new models are like that. I jusdt want to fix this problem no matter what it is driving me crazy.

What problem are you having?

the one and only problem taht i have with this car is that when im going 30m or more when i push the gas pedal down, instead of lowshifting and going faster, the rmp just keeps going up from 3k slowly. sometimes it works and sometimes it just doesnt. also when it is workig, with the car stopped, i can feel that with just a little bit of push on the gas pedal the car pulls forward (it is like the pedal is harder when it is working right). but when it is not working correctly i have to push harder and the rpm has to go higher until ill get to the speed that i was getting before with a little pressure on the gas pedal.

the one and only problem taht i have with this car is that when im going 30m or more when i push the gas pedal down, instead of lowshifting and going faster, the rmp just keeps going up from 3k slowly. sometimes it works and sometimes it just doesnt. also when it is workig, with the car stopped, i can feel that with just a little bit of push on the gas pedal the car pulls forward (it is like the pedal is harder when it is working right). but when it is not working correctly i have to push harder and the rpm has to go higher until ill get to the speed that i was getting before with a little pressure on the gas pedal.

I could figure out that they have added potentiometer zero pos adjustment as they used to be all wrong from beginning...

Just replace TPS, relatively cheap.

Coil packs cracked?

Try autozone.com, log in and seek if u can get your model service manual. It describes all sensors, how to tst.

You can also go to dealer and ask only for sesnors test, would not be too costly. Limit their job just to diag, stand beside and watch. Pay, thanks, leave and decide whattodo... Then buy u self what they suggest and try replacing.

read: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14

well i took the car to dealer, they said that i need to replace my AFM and an o2 sensor. i asked for price they said around 700 box, i thought i would show it to my mechanik first. i took the car to my mechanik he cleared the ECU and checked again, no more codes. i know why it was showing the AFM sensor cuase i opened the intake to clean the engine and turned the car on without putting the wires back.(i forgot) so i know my AFM has no problem, and i dont get the o2 code either. and everytime i go to dealer they charge me 100 box just for going there. that is the reason why i dont take the car to dealer anymore.

well i took the car to dealer, they said that i need to replace my AFM and an o2 sensor. i asked for price they said around 700 box, i thought i would show it to my mechanik first. i took the car to my mechanik he cleared the ECU and checked again, no more codes. i know why it was showing the AFM sensor cuase i opened the intake to clean the engine and turned the car on without putting the wires back.(i forgot) so i know my AFM has no problem, and i dont get the o2 code either. and everytime i go to dealer they charge me 100 box just for going there. that is the reason why i dont take the car to dealer anymore.


U have so new car that it would be real bad luck to have sensors broken. Was the original 'problem' cause the ECU warn light/codes?

Quite universally on all cars: taking batt off for some time clears ECU. Batt neg cable off should be always the first job, also if take seats etc. off (with airbags).

New ECU's need one week to collect data to get inspection through: we are riding towards big bro system.

Me - never use dealer ship: I am capable of sinking my ship myself...free. But that dealers serviceman who is not capable of first (or second)clearing ECU, what can I say? Hopefully just an individual, but leaving a car on dealers mercy means always big bill, lots new parts (or the serviceman take em for blk market) at least charged.

They tell in the news that quite possibly the airbags will vanish during 'maintenance' - who of us really knows if currently still have airbags or just air without bags?

i totaly agree with u, and that is why im searching in all these forums, i dont trust the dealers anymore. o and i foudn this website http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
it show how to Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning and Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning i going to try themsee what will happen, ill keep u guys informed.

i totaly agree with u, and that is why im searching in all these forums, i dont trust the dealers anymore. o and i foudn this website http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
it show how to Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning and Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning i going to try themsee what will happen, ill keep u guys informed.

Isn't that process for their own ECU, not for the original Nissan?
Anyways, I've an oldie 3L and that will not help me.

no i think it is for 2002+ maximas, the ecu reseting i already knew, but the other two i have no idea what they do, so im going to give them a try todya see what will happen.

if you have a cold air intake there might be something wrong w/your o2 sensor because those go out a lot otherwise there shouldn't be anything wrong with it. Also you can read your own trouble codes without a scanner. If you need more info, just ask.

i do have an intake but it is a short ram, and i was getting a o2 sensor code, but i had to reset my ECU because it was giving a code for AF sensor too. i knew my AF sensor didnt have a problem since i had forgotten to put the wires back that i unpluged, and as soon as i turn the car on the check engine went on. so i had to reset the ECU to make it go away, now im wating for the o2 sensor to come back, but it hasnt yet.
thanx for your responds guys i love it when people help each other like this.

BTW. Thers is more idiot technicians working outside dealers than inside.As this forum proves, very little people{lots of techs as well}refuse to properly diagnose ECM malfunctions.Thus you wind up with a lot of people replacing the wrong part or bypassing a system.
Just a thought

ok i finally got the code today, it is 03 08, i didnt touch anything and didnt reset the ecu either, but when i take the car to the mechanik his scanner doesnt show any codes. should i jus go ahead and change the o2 sensor?

try driving around for a little bit and if it doesnt go away then go ahead and change it.

the only thing that i dont get is that how come i get the code and my mechanic doesnt, using his scanner. kind of odd

the only thing that i dont get is that how come i get the code and my mechanic doesnt, using his scanner. kind of odd

- easy to misinterpret the leds
- ECU tries to represent '5000 problems' with 50 codes =lottery box.

However, if every bit in your Maxima =floating computronics ship, is ok, except one sensor, ECU has a slight possibility to hit the jackpot.

Go after oxidation on connectors, groundings...

well your check engine light is still on and it doesnt display a code on his scanner?

no, my check engine light is not on, but im still getting the code.

Yopu say you put your shoe to the accelerator and rpms rise gradually?You need to check your kickdown switch on your pedal.Either out of adjustment or faulty

You say you put your shoe to the accelerator and rpms rise gradually?You need to check your kickdown switch on your pedal.Either out of adjustment or faulty

is that something that i can do, or should i just take it to the mechanic.

im steel getting the same code(03 08) but i cant do anything until my mechanic gets the code, cuase the code is (Closed Loop Control)i think it is basically a bad oxygen sensor but how should i know which one?

where is your warranty?

There is a function inside your ECM called "System Readiness Test".It test certain capabilities and systems within itself.If you are getting a "closed loop operation" code{s},ignore them.All ECM feedback systems, when cold, start-up in "open loop" {preprogrammed outputs}.After the ECM is satisfied engine is at operating temp.and is satisfied systems are ready, the system goes to "closed loop" operation.Now all inputs to ECM are recognized.Ecm now thinks and reacts for itself.Closed loop operation is a good thing.These system readiness codes may not show up on some scanners.If it did it should be taken as a good sign.The reason you get two codes is one code for left bank and one code for right bank.
Another reason of codes being found in the Ecm and not on a scanner{not this case} is some codes only set after the Ecm sees the malfunction twice{two trip logic}.The above relates to any OBD11 vehicle regardless of make.
Schools out

ok i took the car to my mechanic again, he checked the ECU, he got the o2 sensor again, however, this time we are not getting the same seonsor. last week we were getting bank 1 sensor 1, but now we are getting bank 1 sensor 2. it is like the problem is jumping from a sensor to another.lol