92 Voyager Will Not start

Hi, I've been working on a 92 Plymouth voyager 3.3 that will not start. It cranks fine...engine turns over.

Here is what I've checked so far. The fuel pump does not run at all when you turn the key on, does not pump any fuel. I checked the wires going to the fuel pump and the supply feed for the pump is shorted directly to ground....unable to locate short. I cut the wire and bypassed it by running 12 volts to it. When I did that the fuel pump will pump plenty of fuel and has good pressure at the fuel rail.


Problem 2...After getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail...the van still will not start.

Pulled two plugs and no spark at either while cranking. I have changed the engine control with one from a running vehicle and still nothing. Same as before.

I've read about an auto shutdown relay. But not sure what causes that to activate. I've checked all relays with ohmeter and all relays are good. I've done some wire tracing and found one red wire right below the batter that was corroded. I've repaired that wire.

Is there any other tests that I can do with a volt meter to help diagose my problem. Is it possible to test the crank and cam postion sensors with a volt/ohm meter..I have been unable to find the specs for these sensors. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I am having the same exact problem with a 1994 caravan with a 3.3 .

After 10 people told me that it was the crank position sensor...I felt I was at a dead end and it couldn't hurt anything put my pocket. I bought a crank sensor and installed it. NO DIFFERENCE still having the same problem.

check the PCM for trouble codes by turning your ignition key on/off three times ending in the off position. Read whatever codes it spits out from the check engine light. If it flashes the "check engine" light twice pauses then flashes another four times, that's a code 24. When you find out what codes you have (if any) let me, I can try to help you. Just a little FYI, if you cam sensor was bad, your fuel pump wouldn't work; cam sensors control fuel syncronization; It's somewhat expensive but the next option could be the ignition control module which is mounted on the engine by the thermostat housing.

I am also still having the same problem .. no codes at all .. all the wiring in good , new crank sensor , new coil pack,and new pcm , battery is fine , but I have fuel and no spark

check the PCM for trouble codes by turning your ignition key on/off three times ending in the off position. Read whatever codes it spits out from the check engine light. If it flashes the "check engine" light twice pauses then flashes another four times, that's a code 24. When you find out what codes you have (if any) let me, I can try to help you. Just a little FYI, if you cam sensor was bad, your fuel pump wouldn't work; cam sensors control fuel syncronization; It's somewhat expensive but the next option could be the ignition control module which is mounted on the engine by the thermostat housing.


Thanks for the reply. I have tried to get flash codes from this van but there are never any codes. I do mean zero...it does not flash the check engine light at all. I know the bulb in the dash is good because it comes on when you first turn the key on. I have changed the Engine Control over on the driver side fender next to the battery with one from a running van of same year/engine. I still could not get it to flash the check engine light.


Isn't it at least supposed to flash a code letting you know there are no codes?

Is there a way to check the Cam Sensor with an ohm meter or do you have to check it via a scanner?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Here are the codes for the 92, and instructions to get them.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html
It should flash 55 at the very least, if there is absolutely nothing wrong. I almost always see at least 12 and 55, but that may be because my first impulse with problems on these is to disconnect the battery ;)

Here are the codes for the 92, and instructions to get them.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html
It should flash 55 at the very least, if there is absolutely nothing wrong. I almost always see at least 12 and 55, but that may be because my first impulse with problems on these is to disconnect the battery ;)


It doesn't flash any codes at all. Here is what I get with your link....

Object not found!
The requested URL was not found on this server.

I just checked the link, and it's still up. You may have a hijacker on your computer. If you still can't get there, let me know, I will post the text here.

ok, the link is working now....but this is something that I already knew.


I'm not getting any codes to flash. 0 The bulb in the dash is good It comes on for a few seconds when I first turn the key on....but with the on,off,on,off,on sequence I am not getting any flash codes.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

My only thought would be that whichever computer drives the codes and display has a problem. Have you checked for good ground and firm plug-ins on all the under-hood modules?

... I am not getting any flash codes. Any thoughts or suggestions?Force a code 12 by disconnecting the negative cable to your battery, waiting 10 minutes and reconnecting it. Then retry the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON sequence with your key. Make sure that your key stays in the third and final ON position... you should then get a 12 and 55. If not, there is a problem elsewhere.

If you don't have an OBD reader, Auto Zone might have one and, if they do, they will check your Caravan for free. If your onboard diagnostics is toast, you may have microprocessor or chip issues that must be resolved.

Force a code 12 by disconnecting the negative cable to your battery, waiting 10 minutes and reconnecting it. Then retry the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON sequence with your key. Make sure that your key stays in the third and final ON position... you should then get a 12 and 55. If not, there is a problem elsewhere.

If you don't have an OBD reader, Auto Zone might have one and, if they do, they will check your Caravan for free. If your onboard diagnostics is toast, you may have microprocessor or chip issues that must be resolved.


I did exactly what you said. I do not get 12 and 55. I do not get any codes to flash at all. The van won't start to get it to Auto Zone. I'm assuming since I can't get any flash codes that they wouldn't be able to read the codes either. I tried with a different computer from same make model van...still no codes. I'm guessing I have a problem in the harness somwhere.

The harnesses that run under the battery tray seem to have regular troubles on these, I'd start looking there.

I have a 96 grand voyager and it will crank but not fire. I replaced the coil pack. When I checked for spark I had none while the battery was cranking at full charge. As the battery began to run down I started to get a spark and it sounded like it was trying to fire. Any ideas?

check the PCM for trouble codes by turning your ignition key on/off three times ending in the off position. Read whatever codes it spits out from the check engine light. If it flashes the "check engine" light twice pauses then flashes another four times, that's a code 24. When you find out what codes you have (if any) let me, I can try to help you. Just a little FYI, if you cam sensor was bad, your fuel pump wouldn't work; cam sensors control fuel syncronization; It's somewhat expensive but the next option could be the ignition control module which is mounted on the engine by the thermostat housing.

ok well i have been reading these forums all day trying to find one that matched my problems..

well this one sorta did. i have a 92 3.3 caravan and i have no fire and no fuel... i am thinking that it might be the ignition control module but not 100% sure i have code 12 and 55 wich it is tellin me that there is nothing wrong so i take it it is the igniton control module

Did anybody find the issue to this problem yet. I have a 1989 P/V. We tried to groumd the purple wire as indicated on teh Haines book and all we did was fried the SMEC because somke started to come out of it. I am getting a new SMEC and dont what to fried it again. What I did noticed is that there is no power to the dome lights inside and the check engine light doesn't light at all. When we turn the ignition switch on there is gas hitting the Injectors however theres no spark. I opened up all the harkness by the battery and everything seems fine, also checked all the fusible links and they all look good. Is there any way you can bypass anything to get spark again. I am going to continue trying to fix and I promisse that if I find the issue I will make it public right away, however if you find the problem please let me know ASAP to francisco_martinez@teledyne.com

bad crank sensor will give no spark.

I saw on previous threads that some people already tried to replace all the sensors with no luck, however not all cases are the same. I will give it a tried and advise you all of the out come.

I have a 95 caravan 3.0 wont start either changed fuel filter and still no start have codes 12 and 55 no humming from the fuel pump when turn key will check connections and if neccessary replace pump. when i pit quick start in air filter she runs but then cuts off due to no fuel
oh well pump should get here today if only it would get warmer.
MIke

I have a 96 grand voyager and it will crank but not fire. I replaced the coil pack. When I checked for spark I had none while the battery was cranking at full charge. As the battery began to run down I started to get a spark and it sounded like it was trying to fire. Any ideas?

Try switching the computer (located next to the battery) go to the junk yard and get one from a 3.3L. They will mark it and if it doesn't work they will take it back because they cannot garrantee used electrical parts. See the latest caravan update in the Forum and you will see what I just went through.

:rofl: :smokin:

Hi everyone, I guess that I finally have good news for all the people having issues with Caravans and Voyager tha wont Start. I been one of the ones dealing with issue I am glad to say that I finally found the issue i=on some of the cars. Many of you have tried replacing the Computer, Shut Down Relay, Map Sensor, Crank Sensor (if applicable), and even the fusible links Well I have fixed four of this mini-vans I am going to pass arround some of the things I found wrong.

Here we go,

First and most important and easy to check is the A/S Relay. This is the auto shutdown relay and you can check this by opening the switch, if you hear this clicking is good. The most common problem is the computer (SMEC) if your van is equiped with the one that have the two conectors you have to make sure you get the right one. Theres is three types of computers that got used during 1988 to 1995 and you have to make sure you got the rigth one.First SBEC have only one conector. The second one have two conectors and you have to make sure that when you replace the computer the are same series. The serial number you will find it on the top of the boax and is a three digit number in bold. If your computer is missing this label you can open the computer and find the number in one label located on the bottom cumputer chip (IC) Also, one of the SBEC have a internal black and red wire connecting ingnition module to the computer and all other models they work separated. One of the comon issues to find when you install the wrong computer is tha you will lose some electricity on other areas of the van. The other issue is the Fuel Injectors Harness, from the four or six pin connector to the connector going to the injectors this are very common to broke and you will not be able to see then since the cracks are behind the tape. One more hint is that if you remove any of the vacumm lines on the left and did not connect them correctly the van will not start.

I hope this was of some help to any of you and if you have further questions I will be more than happy to help you. You can reach me at francisco_martinez@teledyne.com if you would like to talk to me regarding any of this issues leave me your number and I will call you back.

GOOD LUCK!

I'm posting a reply, albeit years later, because I have the same issue with a 93 Intrepid 3.3
I'm somewhat obsessed with uncovering what is causing my Automatic Shutdown Relay to open and keep my fuel and ignition from energizing until I fix the problem.
The reason your ASD does this is to keep you from firing cylinders when the spark and injectors aren't in sync.
The problem is, finding the problem that is causing the ASD to open the relay.
You hear everyone discuss crank and cam sensors. When you're out of sync, these sensors are to blame but I've changed both. There is something occurring that's keeping these sensors from sending a signal so they offer up codes to the effect they don't work.
I'm also getting codes for O2 sensor and A/C Clutch Relay.
All of these sensors are in working order.
One thing I have noticed, they all share a common ground to the computer that senses whether they are working.
This common ground eventually works it's way to the Trani computer which likes to put me in limp mode when I do have the vehicle running.
My problems originated with me having a cracked thermostat housing which cooked the engine. Injector wires melted to intake and fried the alternator.
Had to replace fuse A in power distribution center.
Splice three injector clips to wires burned on injectors.
Have run the length of the blue black wire which is common ground to all of these sensors. Wiring checks out fine.
What's left?
The Computer has internal ground. Could it be the computer's internal ground?
Have I fried coil so that it's intermittent problem?
The vehicle runs fine on start up (open loop mode), once to temperature the computer now reads closed loop mode which relies on the sensors. That's when I git limp mode, sometimes the tach falls to zero with cruise ligth coming on. Sometimes vehicles just quits.
There are a few things Chrysler have done here that screws a mechanic up.

#1. Multiple devices and sensors run on same circuits, now creates a situation where pin pointing any one electrical circuit is compounded by the amount of devices and circuit.
Then multiple of events occurring is compounded as well.

#2. Whoever programmed codes into computer used reference values of temp and rpm. Unless the fault occurs in the temp or rpm range, a code isn't created when a code should have been.

#3. Sometimes a code is created when the sensor the code refers to is not at fault. The sensor appears to be at fault because some other cause is depriving it of electricity or vacuum.

#4.There aren't codes for certain faults that weren't considered at the time of creating this electrical monster.
The amount of devices ganged on these circuits and the precision demanded for the vehicle not to go into limp mode or shut down were not realistic to the aging of a vehicle and it's wiring. Simple is always effective.

#5. Is there a list of every code the original scanner could produce? If so, where to find this list? The ASD shuts down for all of but twelve codes. What are those twelve codes?
What are the other codes. (Read that in Chrysler spec manual)

I like the 3.3 engine. 250,000 miles and compression still like new. I think it's the 60 degree design.
Now to find way to simplify wiring to just fire ignition and fuel and sensors.
Remove all the courtesy wiring and speed control.

Next vehicle is standard transmission :-)

Do yourself a favor and get a wiring diagram with a pinout schematic of the ECM, check every power and ground to the ECM. No codes and no MIL ("check engine") indicate hard electrical fault.