Cleaning, polishing, and appearance tricks for your Chevy Silverado

Greetings Silverado readers,

I'm starting this thread for the purpose of people offering ideas, tips, tricks, etc. on the simple process of cleaning or keeping your truck looking as good as possible.

It sounds so simple - yet with all the new materials and decorative aspects of the Chevy Silverado trucks of the last few years - cleaning is no longer just "soap and water". For those who think that a truck is only about work and dirt shows work - then you won't be interested.

All the new vinyls, plastics, clearcoats, chromes, alloys, laminates, paints, waxes, and trims - not to mention fabrics, leathers, rubbers, and coatings - do you really want it scratched - marred - separated - or less than the best it can look? Not me.

Come on - add your ideas in.

Catch U later,

White Lightening

Greetings,

When I purchased my new Silverado this fall - my neighbor was helpful. He saw me applying a "wet look" type polish spray to my 20 inch tires. I was trying to be very careful - because it isn't so good to spray your wheels with this stuff - or painted areas either (like fenders etc.).

So he shows me these foam applicators he uses for his tires. They are shaped like the tire sidewall profile - so it makes it easy to wipe the tires - but yet you don't have overspary - no cloth/rag needed and its a smoother look and wastes less spray. Buy em at Walmart or any place like that for a buck.

So I start looking around - and find an even better version at the auto supply (Advanced Auto Parts). Its the foam applicator with a gray plastic holder. Still only 99 cents. Reusable over and over again.

Simple, fast, easy, inexpensive - and efficient for any car or truck tires.

Here's yet a further improvement on the neighbors original idea:

Ever have wax or polish get on your exterior vinyls/plastics of your bumpers, mirrors, door handles, fender flares or tailgate lips? My 2004 has that stippled finish on all of them - and you can't "clean" that wax and polish off. Rubbing alcohol, soap, etc. all just give it a temporary fix - but it looks bad after drying. Darn waxes :-)

One of the problems with removing wax and car polish from plastic and vinyl is that many items can soften the base material (fingernail polish, superglue remover, etc.). So I experimented with those same foam applicators and the same "wet tire" sprays (I like a particular one).

If you have black plastic parts (like Silverado bumper plastic, tailgate lips, mirror plastic, black fender flairs, etc. I have a wonderful solution for you. I use a "wet tire" type of product "No touch Wet N Protect" that I spray into a foam tire sidewall applicator you can purchase at any Walmart or auto supply (price $1.00). Decent quality wet tire type products have both a cleaner and a rubber rejuvenator/preservative in them. It lifts wax and polishes, then cleans the surfaces (even stippled like bumper plastic) - and then gives it a very pure sheen to it. It does not "color" the plastic dark, and does not yellow it either. Also can be used on truck box rubber cargo mats etc..

Word of caution - it will make rubber or plastic look excellent - vinyl and plastic will be great and rubber will be shiny smooth, clean, and brand new looking. But if you need traction (like a box cargo mat) - use it sparingly - the rubber rejuvenators - on a flat surface - act as a lubricant-like slippery effect. Dust and dirt won't stick - but foot traction can be a bit iffy too.

P.S. Also could be used on rubber floor mats too.

White Lightening

I remember when I was a freshman in high school (without a penny to spare of course) a friend told me to use a can of Coca Cola to clean off the muck that sticks to your tires and after laughing at him for a while, he showed me the trick with the Coke he was drinking, darn tires looked like new and all for 75 cents :grinno:

So let me get this straight, he had the Coke and you had the smile when he shined your tires? I thought the one who had the Coke also got the smile. Damn, now I'm all confused!

The last time I made my 18 hr. drive home I went trough a construction site and sure enough they were tarring the road and it didn't help being very hot out, now I have tar on my lower quarter panel behind the tire. A friend of mine said to use gas. Any other suggestions, or does gas work???????
Info please

The last time I made my 18 hr. drive home I went trough a construction site and sure enough they were tarring the road and it didn't help being very hot out, now I have tar on my lower quarter panel behind the tire. A friend of mine said to use gas. Any other suggestions, or does gas work???????
Info please

WD40 !!! works on bug splats too !!

I have a can of stuff that is mad to take off road tar... But I forget what its called. Check pepboys or probly any auto place like that. I used it to get all the tar of my ehxaust tips when they re-did all the streets in my neighborhood last summer.

I don't know if anyone else has had this problem. I bought a bug shield for my truck and after two years it faded and looked terrible. I tried everything I could think of to bring back the shine, but nothing would last more than a couple of weeks. I bought a new one but I am sure it will fade too. I know they are pretty cheap to buy a new one but I would like to know if anyone knows how to keep the bug shields looking good.

^Go to any motorcycle or ATV shop, there is a product called "Plastic-Renew" it is used on off road plastic fenders. That should work on your bug-guard. The sales person at the shop will know what your talking about.

As for tips, My favorite product is WD-40, I clean my Chrome Exhaust tips with it once a week, to prevent corrosion. It will remove just about any mystery goo.
I also use zymol on all painted and chrome parts, it protects and leaves a brilliant shine.
In between waxes I use wax as you dry spray. Ive noticed less road grime and dust sticks to the surface between washes.
For anyone who uses a Vinyl Tonneau Cover, they sell a product called back To Black, it returns the dark glossy color to your sun faded vinyl and black exterior trim.
I also purchased a rubber coated (prevents scratches) premium wash brush from my buddys body shop that mounts on a 6' pole, it makes washing my truck a much easier job. I have a Large Plastic bin full of cleaners, waxes, shammi's etc.. Im a sucker for buying the latest greatest product to keep my truck clean.. lol..

-Jimmy

I don't know if anyone else has had this problem. I bought a bug shield for my truck and after two years it faded and looked terrible. I tried everything I could think of to bring back the shine, but nothing would last more than a couple of weeks. I bought a new one but I am sure it will fade too. I know they are pretty cheap to buy a new one but I would like to know if anyone knows how to keep the bug shields looking good.

Greetings DR of love,

If your bug shield is clear or smoked acrylic - you have the same problem that us motorcyclers do with fairings - its not about dirt - its about tiny minut scratches that fog and cloud the plastic. Likely in the past when you've cleaned your bug shield - you used a cloth and wiped - bingo - thats what makes these small scratches.

To improve the appearance greatly - don't try to buff it with normal buffing compound - too course. Instead - they make acrylic and windshield buffing compound. You put it on like a paste and rub the plastic surface with a clean cotton or micro fiber cloth. The surface will "appear" clean. Actually what you've done is buff out the scratches.

Normal process for most motocyclers with fairings/windshields and face masks.

Catch U later,

The last time I made my 18 hr. drive home I went trough a construction site and sure enough they were tarring the road and it didn't help being very hot out, now I have tar on my lower quarter panel behind the tire. A friend of mine said to use gas. Any other suggestions, or does gas work???????
Info please

Greetings Emmitt,

The key to road tar is to soften it so that you can then wipe it off. I've used both gasoline and alcohol to remove tar from painted surfaces. Many auto supplies carry tar removers - but beware of these products - most tar removers are designed for wheels - weither chrome or non-clearcoat finishes. Often they are harmful or soften clearcoat or painted surfaces. You might get the tar off using one of these - but could take your clear coat or glossy part of the paint off with it. If using a tar remover - read the directions thoroughly and if in doubt - don't use it.

Both alcohol and gasoline will not harm paint surfaces - especially if you remember to blot the tar with the liquid and a sponge. the idea is to soften it by apply the liquid.

Hope this helps.

P.S. From personal experience - don't try pressure washing off tar on painted surfaces. I stripped all the clear coat off the tranmission housing on one of my motorcycles once using a car wash pressure hose. Dumb mistake - and once done - the aluminum alloy housing never looked good again.

I bought a micro fiber cloth and it seems to clean, buff, polish and etc extremelly well. I bought my parents and girlfriend the same clothes at autozone if that makes it any more sincere. PS I'm 32. More mistakes than I care to tell. Ok a girlfriend for one, but not the silverado. Beats a underpowerdered no gas mileage dodge!

Greetings,

If you are driving in "cold country" like I am (Wisconsin is -10 today) - here's something I was recently told that helps. When you start up your truck in cold weather - its easy to get interior fogging. One of the big contributing reasons for it - is excess moisture in the cab - get rid of the moisture - you get rid of the fogging. Well, look to your floor mats. If they have water or ice in them - they are a major contributor of moisture in the air. And in cold conditions that water or ice doesn't evaporate much. So dump out your floor mats more often and have less fogging (and better carpeting too)

White Lightening

I use this thing called a "detailer"... he comes to the house once a month! LOL Seriously, he knows all the secrets and is always shows me little things to simplify the process... the only problem I have is he can do both my car and truck in the time it takes me to do one! He did show me this claybar material, I was fascinated! I came from the rubbing compound era and this stuff is like compound on steriods. I guess you can get it at any parts store... it takes all the impurities and imperfection out of the paint at much less work... impressive.

Just a quick tip for those with lots of chrome, I found this from a friend: I f you use a little bit of vinegar on a cloth and wipe down teh chrome with it, it'll leave a great shine. the vinegar also helps to clean out any stains or tar, bugs, etc. on the chrome. I've been using this to clean my stepbars and grilleguard for a while now and it seems to work well.

It seems truck enthusiasts come in three styles.
Style one washes, waxes, and cleans often - maybe every week or so maybe even oftener - not me.

Style two is off roading and mudding or working the truck - cleaning and looks just aren't part of the program - and they like to say "its a truck" - which I guess means it isn't supposed to be an asset or look good. :smile: This isn't me either.

Style three uses their truck - maybe for work - maybe for fun - but its used daily - and there just isn't the time in life or motivation to clean it constantly - yet every-once-in-awhile it gets attention because it is more than transportation - its your vehicle. This is me. And twice or three times a year tops - I clean etc. (though doing all the other maintenance on it regularly).

This weekend marked the spring clean up - twice a year - whether it needs it or not :smile: One of the things I tested that worked great and thought I'd pass it on.

Instead of LineX I went with a nice rubber bed mat (with dimples underneath) and rubber tailgate mat. This spring I took it out to clean the bed and get rid of all the winter sand and winter concrete block dust and dirt. Then as before I used No Touch Wet "n" Protect (I found many others don't work worth a darn). This is Tire shine in a can. I sprayed it on the cleaned mats (heavy spraying) then let it sit in the enclosed bad for a couple days in the heat - then wiped it down with a rag - then used the rag to wipe all the other exterior vinyl trim. Twice a year I'll do this - dust and dirt don't stick - mats looks great - I slide lots of stuff on the mats (many concrete flag stones) - not a mark or dirt on them. And the exterior vinyl trim, mirrors, door handles, bumper trim - all look jet black and gorgeous for months (not to mention the tires).

White Lightening

anyone got any tips for removing the oxidation from my aluminum toolbox? It looks kinda cruddy... My friend at the body shop suggested vinegar, but that did nothing.

I used to work at a dealer in the detail department. The best way we found to clean the interior is to use an air hose and Meguires vinel and rubber cleaner. The air will push out any dirt from any crack. Just make sure you use a soft cloth on the instrument panel so you dont scratch it. I would start on one side and just blow and make my way across to the other. Works really well.

So he shows me these foam applicators he uses for his tires. They are shaped like the tire sidewall profile - so it makes it easy to wipe the tires - but yet you don't have overspary - no cloth/rag needed and its a smoother look and wastes less spray. Buy em at Walmart or any place like that for a buck.

I use an old large diameter air cleaner lid with a bolt and 2 lock nuts through the center hole as a handle. I just hold this over the wheel to keep the tire dressing off of it and spray away and leave it on. While I'm at it, I always spray the plastic inner fender liner to keep things looking clean and new.

After washing and before drying, I use a soft rubber detailing squeegy over the truck. It really cuts down on the chamois time.

Old timers trick......If you got a black truck......you got swirls and small scratches.....use some baking soda and some simoniz wax.......works wonders....

Old timers trick......If you got a black truck......you got swirls and small scratches.....use some baking soda and some simoniz wax.......works wonders....

Isn't that basically rubbing compound?

Any suggestions on deodorizing the interior??

The previous owner had a dog. The interior STILL smells like a damn dog. I m still vacuuming up dog hair.

I ve scrubbed/shampooed the carpet,seats,everything that is cloth/upholstery in nature. I washed down all plastic surfaces. 2 days ago I purchased a can of Lysol Neutra-Air (fresh scent). Its a new product that neutralizes odors. This seemed to work. I sprayed EVERYTHING down with this stuff. Upholstery,plastic,everything i could reach. I let the truck sit all day with the doors open.

Now,a few minutes ago,the wifey said she noticed the smell coming back.

This is driving me batty.I m tired of scrubbing. Maybe get the damn interior detailed?? I dunno....:disappoin

At Home Depot, they have Zep odor eliminator or some such. Anyway, it's Zep brand. I had a bad smoke smell in mine, and it has all but eliminated that. Get the concentrate, pour into a spray bottle and spray on fabrics, but not the headliner. Seems to have done the trick for me. Also get a little can of ozium for good measure. Also, change your cabin air filter.

...
Instead of LineX I went with a nice rubber bed mat (with dimples underneath) and rubber tailgate mat. This spring I took it out to clean the bed and get rid of all the winter sand and winter concrete block dust and dirt. Then as before I used No Touch Wet "n" Protect (I found many others don't work worth a darn). This is Tire shine in a can. I sprayed it on the cleaned mats (heavy spraying) then let it sit in the enclosed bad for a couple days in the heat - then wiped it down with a rag - then used the rag to wipe all the other exterior vinyl trim. Twice a year I'll do this - dust and dirt don't stick - mats looks great - I slide lots of stuff on the mats (many concrete flag stones) - not a mark or dirt on them. And the exterior vinyl trim, mirrors, door handles, bumper trim - all look jet black and gorgeous for months (not to mention the tires).
...
White Lightening

I was considering coating my bed liner mat, but I didn't want to make it slippery. I have a couple plastic bins back there, and right now, they never slide on the mat. Doesn't your system make it a bit more slippery?

if you got a smell in the interior try changing the cabin air filter and then get some seat and carpet shampoo. anything can become clean with a little elbow grease.

I was considering coating my bed liner mat, but I didn't want to make it slippery. I have a couple plastic bins back there, and right now, they never slide on the mat. Doesn't your system make it a bit more slippery?

Greetings Yakk,

I found thru trial and error last year - that using the wrong Tire spray type of product produces a very greasy surface with no penetration - while using the right type of Tire Spray gives more of a siliconized type of finish to rubber mats. I now only use one single product for my tires, mats, and vinyl trim "No Touch" Wet-n-Protect). True - it does decrease the friction surface on the mat - but that is the whole purpose - to spray it on - leave it set for a couple days and "cook" (covered with a tonneau or something - in the sun so dirt doesn't get on it for that couple of days) - then wipe it off casually with a soft rag. By doing this - your mat gets a glossy black finish - sand and dirt don't stick - and its not just a "surface" finish - it somewhat moves in to the mat below the surface. Surface becomes less able to get stains - think of it like a qood quality wax on paint.

I too have several vinyl flip open boxes in my bed (I keep computer supplies and accessories in them plus tools). They don't slide around when I'm driving (incidentally - these boxes are flip up type with catches on them by rubbermaid). They can be stacked nested under my tonneau. Easy to take out or keep in - and with my waterproof hard folding tonneau cover I have zero rain or dust getting into the truck bed over a period of several months (foam weatherstripped the tailgate area).

While bed mat and tailgate mat will be "smoother" and glossier - the vinyl bins should not slide around unless they are totally empty. When I used the wrong tire spray - man - it was like a greased pig LOL - hard standing on it, everything sliding around.

With little time to do cleaning - I want it very easy to clean and stay looking stain free and jet black - this has helped accomplish it for me in the box area. :licka:

P.S. And after using the rag on the mat - use it (without additional spray needed) on the black EXTERIOR vinyl trim of the handles, mirrors, bumpers (but not painted surfaces).

White Lightening

No Touch, the only way to go. With all the black on my truck I don't want hte static cling that other cleaners cause. I spray the wheel wells, the running boards, and the tires. Since I've got 2 six year old climing in and out of the back door I don't want them to "Slide" out of the back :chair: . No Touch is not slick and you don't have to wipe it off nor will it have static cling.

The local Autozone was removing it from the shelfs so I bought 12 cans at $.99 versus the $1.79. Two cleanings per can I am set for a while.. :evillol: ..

deodorizing the interior. you need to rember the area behind the dash. it will collect dust and grime. also the air vents will do the same.

with you favorite spay deodorizer spray under the dash and in the vents with the heator on and agen with the ac on.

to realy do the job remove the seats and clean them out side of the truck. rember thay have a underside to. then do hole carpet, you would be shocked at what gets under the seats.

oxidation from aluminum toolboxs. go to a truck stop and get some aluminum cleaner. take the tool box out then clean it. the cleaners thay have there will eat the paint off. thay have differnt types most of them are acids. to keep the tool box shiney use shark hide. ask for it at boat shops. it will cost a arm and a leg but its worth it. one can will do 100 tool boxes. it will also keep the oxidation from coming back.

I recently found out that Johnson's (used to be DOW) Foaming Bathroom Cleaner also works pretty well at cleaning the engine. No Touch does pretty good, but it wont knock out grease like the bathroom cleaner will.

Wesley's Bleach-White is a great heavy duty automotive cleaner. I even use it as an engine degreaser. Gotta watch it on paint and finished aluminum though...

Greetings Silverado readers,

I'm starting this thread for the purpose of people offering ideas, tips, tricks, etc. on the simple process of cleaning or keeping your truck looking as good as possible.

It sounds so simple - yet with all the new materials and decorative aspects of the Chevy Silverado trucks of the last few years - cleaning is no longer just "soap and water". For those who think that a truck is only about work and dirt shows work - then you won't be interested.

All the new vinyls, plastics, clearcoats, chromes, alloys, laminates, paints, waxes, and trims - not to mention fabrics, leathers, rubbers, and coatings - do you really want it scratched - marred - separated - or less than the best it can look? Not me.

Come on - add your ideas in.

Catch U later,

White Lightening


I always like to scrub the tires down clean before I apply any type of wet look to them. I use either Comet or Soft Scrub cleaner and just wet the tires, put the cleaner on the tires and/or the brush, and just start scrubbing. It is unbelievable at the dirt that comes off of the tires. If you have white letters on the outside of the tire, it gets them bright white. They look so much better after you do this, so much that sometimes I just let them dry and don't even spray any wet look stuff on them. Try it out!

Grease isn't my problem. I can't get the red Texas mud that has stained most of the bottom of my engine and frame parts, even the aluminum block parts. Owner before me:chair: had it packed into unheard of areas and I've got most of it out but would love to get the staining out of the engine compartment, pressure washer does not fase it. Any luck with that??????:feedback:

Grease isn't my problem. I can't get the red Texas mud that has stained most of the bottom of my engine and frame parts, even the aluminum block parts. Owner before me:chair: had it packed into unheard of areas and I've got most of it out but would love to get the staining out of the engine compartment, pressure washer does not fase it. Any luck with that??????:feedback:

HAHAHA! that's funny, one of the trucks I first looked at when I started car shopping was a 4wd sierra. Someone had done some SERIOUS muddin' in it, because it had mud up UNDERNEATH the plastic"VORTEC" intake cover. I updated my sig, as requested

Swet, better with 2 Dubya's!!!!!!!

Hehehe Double Dubya Upya!

Any suggestions on deodorizing the interior??

The previous owner had a dog. The interior STILL smells like a damn dog. I m still vacuuming up dog hair.

I ve scrubbed/shampooed the carpet,seats,everything that is cloth/upholstery in nature. I washed down all plastic surfaces. 2 days ago I purchased a can of Lysol Neutra-Air (fresh scent). Its a new product that neutralizes odors. This seemed to work. I sprayed EVERYTHING down with this stuff. Upholstery,plastic,everything i could reach. I let the truck sit all day with the doors open.

Now,a few minutes ago,the wifey said she noticed the smell coming back.

This is driving me batty.I m tired of scrubbing. Maybe get the damn interior detailed?? I dunno....:disappoin


Draboo.....To remove serious odors, try some "Real Lemon". You can get it at your local grocery. Just put it in a spray bottle and spray it onto the interior of your truck. (you can use it deluted w/water or straight)... If you still have the odor problem then find a local janitorial outlet and get some RX-66. I've used it on houses that I've remodeled to get rid of smoke smell, pet urine, musty odors, wet carpet smells and many other misc. odor problems. The stuff is pretty expensive......around $25 to $30 per gallon.....but it eliminates odors on just about anything. Even concrete!! But try the Real Lemon first......if it works, it'll save you big bucks!

Where is the smell coming from? If I don't drive my truck for like 2 days or something like that, when I open the doors there is a unpleasing smell.......I have new cabin air filters, I shampooed the hell out of every micro fibre from the carpet.....I don't smoke......still I have some sort of smell......Any ideas anyone....?

Be careful with lemon juice... it's so acidic that it can bleach fabrics

Where is the smell coming from? If I don't drive my truck for like 2 days or something like that, when I open the doors there is a unpleasing smell.......I have new cabin air filters, I shampooed the hell out of every micro fibre from the carpet.....I don't smoke......still I have some sort of smell......Any ideas anyone....?

I've found that I have to be careful not to "lock a fart in the truck." You know, sometimes you do it and you don't smell anything, then you get out. When you get back in later, then it really smells like hot ass in there.

Wheels - ohhhhh they make a truck look good. But cleaning them is not always as simple as we'd like. Lots of wheel cleaners out there - but many are harsh to rubber or paint - so there are concerns about overspray etc.. Also - aluminum wheels often have a clear coat over them - and cleaners can be tough on that too.

So here is something else that works really well and in not harmful. Sparkling water is a great cleaner and the carbonation lifts dirt and stains nicely on both chrome, aluminum alloys, and painted surfaces. I use Mendota Sparkling (lemon flavor) because it has lots of carbonation in it. You don't need a lot - just apply, spread, and wipe off. You'll see the bubbles working. Also works great on hard tonneau covers where you can't wax the surface (especially painted metal).

White Lightening

I've found that I have to be careful not to "lock a fart in the truck." You know, sometimes you do it and you don't smell anything, then you get out. When you get back in later, then it really smells like hot ass in there.

LOL. That's rich! :rofl:

But true. I get my wife with it sometimes after driving her car.

For the interior, I like to use Black Magic on the dash and such. It is slick but not greasy and doenst attract dust. I also use the Black Magic tire foam but it has a tendance to 'sling' off onto the fender like mudspray. I saw that Dupont has some tire shine stuff in a spray bottle that says specifically 'it wont sling off like other products".... Has anyone tried the Dupont stuff or whats your views on the Black Magic that I've been using?

What do you use to take water spots of windows?

Regular windex if it's on the outside, non-ammonia windex if it's on the inside.

What do you use to take water spots of windows?

In the city I live in - we have iron in the water - so spotting is a pain the butt. Great waxes help - but I now have some new solutions that really make things work great.

1. For tires or internal/external rubber mats, or exterior vinyls (mirror covers, tailgate, bumpers, door handles etc.) - to get them jet black (or gray as in lower front bumper) and glossy and bug resistant I use
No Touch Wet'N'Protect Wet Tire Finish. Doesn't fling - works much better than others I've used - and lasts longer too. Cost - $3 to $4 a can.

2. for Windshields and windows exterior and interior and mirrors - something new - Rain-X GLASS CLEANER Wipes with Anti-Fog. Note - this is not the Rain-X wipes - it is the Glass Cleaner Wipes. Works excellent on bugs - comes in a can of 25 wipes for $3.25. One wipe does the whole truck in my extended cab. Prior to this - bugs and water spots were a real problem. I used half a dozen cleaners - none worked as good as these glass cleaner wipes from Rain-X.

3. An Aqua Brush. cost - about $5. Another miracle item. Its like a squeege except instead of a rubber blade - its a 12 inch wide silicon blade. Its designed to be used on windows or painted surfaces of the truck. Flexible - no scratching - replaces towels, rags, and chamois. Fast - easy - gets the water off before it can spot - won't scratch - flexible to countour changes.

All three of the above items combined will cost you less than $12.00 plus tax - and make the cleaning/polishing job cut in half. I hate doing windows - at least I used to hate it - especially on the inside. Not any more :smile:

How many of you have tried the Mr. Clean Auto-Dry? The newer pro series is the best. ( $35.00) I didn't like it the first couple of times, but, by brother-in-law showed me how to use it correctly. He uses it on his black Escalade, which never has a water spot on it. I now use it on my black truck and no spots. It's amazing. I'm not sure how it works with different water (extremely hard or soft water) but it works great for me.

I have wheels like the 4th and 8th post in this thread...Looks like some one got a little rough with wheel or tire cleaner...The finish is stained....HOW can I remove clearcoat and polish them up nice????

How many of you have tried the Mr. Clean Auto-Dry? The newer pro series is the best. ( $35.00) I didn't like it the first couple of times, but, by brother-in-law showed me how to use it correctly. He uses it on his black Escalade, which never has a water spot on it. I now use it on my black truck and no spots. It's amazing. I'm not sure how it works with different water (extremely hard or soft water) but it works great for me.

how do you get that damn thing not to leave spots. i have used it 4 times now and everytime it leaves spots. cant figure what i am doing wrong i looked at the directions and tried again and still spots i am about to throw it in the trash or take it back to walmart they will give me money back

Ok, I will chime in (Thanks White Lightening:))
These are good tips for me as a new owner of a shiny silvy!!

1. WINDOW SPOTS: After washing truck, let windows dry with spots and all, just let em look bad. **THEN**grab a newspaper and wad up one page. Just wipe over the dry windows with a crumbled sheet of newspaper and you will have the cleanest windows you have ever seen. Sounds Crazy but, try it. Look at the newspaper you will see the all the dirt that was left in the safety glass sealer.
CREDIT goes to Daniel M., Installer at Dyer Electronics, Victoria TX (1989).

Thanks for everyone for the great tips!!

Ok, I will chime in (Thanks White Lightening:))
These are good tips for me as a new owner of a shiny silvy!!

Thanks for everyone for the great tips!!

I was speaking with the owner of a large dealership the other day. We were talking about vehicles and retained value for outright sale or trade-in. His viewpoint was that the best investment you can make in a vehicle - is the maintenance of the appearance. His perspective was - other than checking and changing oils and fluids - nothing cost so little and results in so much resale value - as does the maintenance of the appearance of the exterior and interior of the vehicle. He claims that investment is easier to maintain today because of better clear coats and better paint and rust retardant formulations - and easier to use cleaning and waxing products. His people who value trade-ins - look at appearance closely - because they understand what can be "prepped or cleaned up (detailed) - and what is more difficult to correct".

His point - a little good quality wax and some cleaners and an avoidance of sand/dirt in wash water, rags, sponges, applicators - goes a long way. His other pet peeve - high pressure washers used inproperly on wheels and paint - paint removers used as spot/paint cleaners - and screwdrivers in back pockets that cut seat upholstery.

For the very best car wax one can't beat "Bowling Alley paste wax" or "Johnson's Paste Floor Wax". Both are very high in carnuba.Be sure to follow the instructions. A lot of work, sure, but wow! What a hard glossy finish.

To protect and preserve those plastic bug shields and window shades use a good liquid car polish.

Forget those fancy spray cleaners...at Wal-Mart, in the automotive section, look in the display of car waxes and polish for a one gallon container of "Purple Power" About $2.40. This stuff will do all the cleaning for everything on your vehicle. Refill that empty sprayer and you'll have a lot of cleaning refills for a lot less green backs. Used full strength it's an excellent degreaser....Speaking of which, to remove real serious engine compartment gunk, spray on some oven cleaner, the cheap stuff works just as good as the expensive brand name can..

While at Wally World pick up some "Micro Fibre" clothes, again in the automotive section,with them, you will never need the "blue" stuff to clean glass....just a spritz of water is all that's needed.

When it's time to dry your truck, blow off the excess water with your leaf blower. Don't have one? Get a cheap electric one, You can also blow out the inside of your cab for a "quickie" dust job. After you have degreased that engine bay use the blower to dry every thing off.

The best finishing tool I've found for applaying tire gloss is a good quailty 3 inch paint brush..

For road tar removal I use kerosene..if not readily available, paint thinner works well and hey, don't be alarmed, it won't hurt your vehicle finsh. Why? well, its not a liquid oil based paint. Get a qt. cheap at WM.

For removing bug splatters on your vehicle front end, a wad of dress making "Nylon Netting" is the best tool, it won't stratch the finish and 50 cents worth at any fabric shop (check the WM fabric section) will get you about a half a yard of material. Which will outlast several vehicles...Also netting dipped into a little kerosene quickly scrubs away those tar spots..

Again at WM, check into the home decor section. I recently scored 36 washcloths for less than $3.00. Why waste money on those fancy wax appliacator sponge gizmos? Also found some hand towels really cheap...great for detailing work...

And last but not least..wash and wax only when your vehicle is cool to the touch...and never ever in full sun light.

As an aside,I have been detailng my vehicles before GM built a V8......

For the very best car wax one can't beat "Bowling Alley paste wax" or "Johnson's Paste Floor Wax". Both are very high in carnuba.Be sure to follow the instructions. A lot of work, sure, but wow! What a hard glossy finish.

To protect and preserve those plastic bug shields and window shades use a good liquid car polish.

Forget those fancy spray cleaners...at Wal-Mart, in the automotive section, look in the display of car waxes and polish for a one gallon container of "Purple Power" About $2.40. This stuff will do all the cleaning for everything on your vehicle. Refill that empty sprayer and you'll have a lot of cleaning refills for a lot less green backs. Used full strength it's an excellent degreaser....Speaking of which, to remove real serious engine compartment gunk, spray on some oven cleaner, the cheap stuff works just as good as the expensive brand name can..

While at Wally World pick up some "Micro Fibre" clothes, again in the automotive section,with them, you will never need the "blue" stuff to clean glass....just a spritz of water is all that's needed.

When it's time to dry your truck, blow off the excess water with your leaf blower. Don't have one? Get a cheap electric one, You can also blow out the inside of your cab for a "quickie" dust job. After you have degreased that engine bay use the blower to dry every thing off.

The best finishing tool I've found for applaying tire gloss is a good quailty 3 inch paint brush..

For road tar removal I use kerosene..if not readily available, paint thinner works well and hey, don't be alarmed, it won't hurt your vehicle finsh. Why? well, its not a liquid oil based paint. Get a qt. cheap at WM.

For removing bug splatters on your vehicle front end, a wad of dress making "Nylon Netting" is the best tool, it won't stratch the finish and 50 cents worth at any fabric shop (check the WM fabric section) will get you about a half a yard of material. Which will outlast several vehicles...Also netting dipped into a little kerosene quickly scrubs away those tar spots..

Again at WM, check into the home decor section. I recently scored 36 washcloths for less than $3.00. Why waste money on those fancy wax appliacator sponge gizmos? Also found some hand towels really cheap...great for detailing work...

And last but not least..wash and wax only when your vehicle is cool to the touch...and never ever in full sun light.

As an aside,I have been detailng my vehicles before GM built a V8......


Yeah... Purple Cleaner is REALLLY harmful for any painted surface. On my 1st car, when I was 17, I decided I wanted to make it really clean, so I got at some diluted purple cleaner solution my dad had... It cleaned it alright, right down to the metal! That crap took the paint off the top of my fenders on my car. If you're going to wash with that, you may as well use carburetor cleaner on your wheels :nono:

Yeah... Purple Cleaner is REALLLY harmful for any painted surface. On my 1st car, when I was 17, I decided I wanted to make it really clean, so I got at some diluted purple cleaner solution my dad had... It cleaned it alright, right down to the metal! That crap took the paint off the top of my fenders on my car. If you're going to wash with that, you may as well use carburetor cleaner on your wheels :nono:

What you used must have been at full strength. Directions for use plainly state how to dilute the product...I have used the WM Purple Power product full strength on my lawn mowers and to degrease my engine bay. I have yet to see any harmful effects. If you still have concerns w/the use of PP, then try Dollar General stores "White Lighting" spray cleaner....Its also a great cleaner...besides that, why would you want to use a harsh cleaning agent on your vehicle's paint finish??

why would you want to use a harsh cleaning agent on your vehicle's paint finish??

That's exactly what I'm saying... use something designed to clean the outer painted surfaces on your car. What I used was diluted about 50/50 with water. It did burn the paint off of my fenders. The only reason I did it was because I was a dumb kid.

W-40 works great for getting grease and tar off. Also works great for blotting out grease and tar stains on upholstery by soaking a paper towel. Just use common sense here though and dont rub it in.

how do you get that damn thing not to leave spots. i have used it 4 times now and everytime it leaves spots. cant figure what i am doing wrong i looked at the directions and tried again and still spots i am about to throw it in the trash or take it back to walmart they will give me money back

The most important thing is to be sure that all water on the truck left from rinsing the soap off is replaced by the filtered water. Start at the top and work your way down. That's what I was doing wrong at first. Also, this won't work if your in the sun or if it's really hot out.

For those of you that have a lot of mineral crap in your water, you can go to a camping supply place and get a culligan water filter that screws onto the hose between the hose and the nozzle. It's tubular, about 2" wide and 7" long. It's for trailers to filter the water at RV parks when you hook your hose up. I think they're about $20 and will last over a year. There's also replacement cartridges that cost a lot less and it'll cut down (if not eliminate) the minerals that cause the water spots.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/water-filter.htm
Also, there's a hose nozzel called the "Ultimate Hose Nozzle" which is based on a fire hose nozzle.
http://www.ultimatehosenozzle.com/
This thing is great and in MHO is the best nozzle I've ever aimed at a vehicle!!! It's about $20 at Home Depot and also available in versions from Orbit and Sears.
I really like a lot of the other suggestions I've seen on this thread. There's been some really helpful stuff here. Hi, Domo Arigoto!!!

W-40 works great for getting grease and tar off. Also works great for blotting out grease and tar stains on upholstery by soaking a paper towel. Just use common sense here though and dont rub it in.

Interesting. That stuff works for about anything. I spray my entire snowmobile chassis with it after thawing out.

Another thing that works well on upholstery and carpet grease stains is adhesive remover. Learned about this at the dealership when having to remove greasy footprints and hand prints from customer vehicles.