trying to hit the 550-600hp mark in my 90' eclipse turbo... help.
project_lazer
12-23-2004, 01:03 AM
I need a few segestions on what engine mods i need to do to my eclipse to hit 550-600hp.
kjewer1
12-23-2004, 09:33 AM
This is an awefully vague question. If you mean internals, a typical ross/wiseco piston and eagle rod combo will be plenty. Stock 6 bolts are doing 500-550 WHEEL hp, but I don't recomend it unless you know what you are doing or are trying to be a stock block hero.
If you mean bolt on parts, such as what turbo, you need to do a lot more reading and learning. No one at this level of knowledge will be successfull in building a 600hp car. If you know more than you are letting on thats different :). Post up what you have so far, and we can help you tweak the parts list if there are any issues or suggestions. You can also look at what has worked for other poeple in the past. Its ok to look at mod lists, like Chads and mine on www.posracing.net, but the key is to get an understanding of WHY poeple use the parts they do when running these times or HP.
If you mean bolt on parts, such as what turbo, you need to do a lot more reading and learning. No one at this level of knowledge will be successfull in building a 600hp car. If you know more than you are letting on thats different :). Post up what you have so far, and we can help you tweak the parts list if there are any issues or suggestions. You can also look at what has worked for other poeple in the past. Its ok to look at mod lists, like Chads and mine on www.posracing.net, but the key is to get an understanding of WHY poeple use the parts they do when running these times or HP.
project_lazer
12-23-2004, 11:45 AM
well, so far I've cut the air can, chopped the MAS air sensor, turned the boost up to 18psi, and put in an ACT2600. I did all the work to it, workng to the car is no problem, I just need to know things like which cams, turbo, pistons, valves, crank... you get the point. I'm just tired of getting stomped by hondas that have nothing done to it but a big shot of gas on it. And all the built mustangs. Stock 5.0s are no problem, and so far porche 911s can't hang either. But I'm going for more a viper killer.
project_lazer
12-23-2004, 12:21 PM
P.S. I settle with 400hp, and I know that can happen, my friend's talon has been in the shop for a year and is comming out soon, it puts out about 750hp. but I don't have the money he does
guitarXgeek
12-23-2004, 12:58 PM
Well if 400whp is suffice (which is very doable), then I would just recommend the tuning guide on dsmtuners.com for a very basic list. On top of that, some cams (hks 272/272 or FP2's), sheet metal intake manifold (not completely necessary, but it will help), a 60mm TB (again, not completely necessary), and some mild head work if you so please. Those are just some other things to think about that most build-up lists don't contain. The stock block can handle 400hp fairly easily, with good tuning of course. Therefore, you don't really need to do any internals unless you decide to build a 2.3l stroker ;) .
I think a list of what you already have in mind (include EVERYTHING) would help us determine what exactly you're missing.
I think a list of what you already have in mind (include EVERYTHING) would help us determine what exactly you're missing.
project_lazer
12-23-2004, 01:58 PM
turbo- SBR-Gt30
gauges- boost
oil pressure
fuel/air
Electronics- AFC 2
Profec B
1st Gen FMIC
Fuel- 750 or 650cc injectors
fuel rail
255 fuel pump
Fuel press. reg.
Engine- head ported and pollished
1mm over valves
comp cams
50hp shot of NOS
HKS BOV
gauges- boost
oil pressure
fuel/air
Electronics- AFC 2
Profec B
1st Gen FMIC
Fuel- 750 or 650cc injectors
fuel rail
255 fuel pump
Fuel press. reg.
Engine- head ported and pollished
1mm over valves
comp cams
50hp shot of NOS
HKS BOV
guitarXgeek
12-23-2004, 02:43 PM
Some things you listed that you should reconsider:
1.) A new fuel rail will not be needed.
2.) The a/f gauge is useless, you'll need a wideband o2
3.) Nitrous will not be needed, scrap that.
4.) It will be pretty tough to hit 400hp using an AFC for tuning. Pick up the 1g DSMlink if you're looking to make that kind of power.
5.) The oversized valves aren't completely necessary unless you're revving extremely high (~8500). Same goes with the springs and retainers. However, a set of ARP headstuds will be good to invest in.
Some things you need to add:
1.) I don't think HKS bov's recirculate, so you need to get one that does recirculate or purchase a GM maft and translator setup in blow-thru.
2.) A nice Tial external wastegate should definitely be considered.
And the most important thing of all:
3.) You really need to do some reading up on everthing you're planning to do. Throwing parts and money at a car in hopes to make it faster is not the way to do it. As kevin just stated, "Its ok to look at mod lists, like Chads and mine on www.posracing.net, but the key is to get an understanding of WHY poeple use the parts they do when running these times or HP."
1.) A new fuel rail will not be needed.
2.) The a/f gauge is useless, you'll need a wideband o2
3.) Nitrous will not be needed, scrap that.
4.) It will be pretty tough to hit 400hp using an AFC for tuning. Pick up the 1g DSMlink if you're looking to make that kind of power.
5.) The oversized valves aren't completely necessary unless you're revving extremely high (~8500). Same goes with the springs and retainers. However, a set of ARP headstuds will be good to invest in.
Some things you need to add:
1.) I don't think HKS bov's recirculate, so you need to get one that does recirculate or purchase a GM maft and translator setup in blow-thru.
2.) A nice Tial external wastegate should definitely be considered.
And the most important thing of all:
3.) You really need to do some reading up on everthing you're planning to do. Throwing parts and money at a car in hopes to make it faster is not the way to do it. As kevin just stated, "Its ok to look at mod lists, like Chads and mine on www.posracing.net, but the key is to get an understanding of WHY poeple use the parts they do when running these times or HP."
scottsee
12-23-2004, 04:56 PM
hks actually does have the option of recurculating. you have to buy their kit for $35. as guitar said, the reasion for porting your head, and angling your valves is to increase your max rpm's. that turbo wouldn't mind seeing 9000 rpm's. agian, like guitar said, dsmlink and wideband are great idea. maybe a gmmaft set to 0 for blowthrough. i would stay away from safc2 if you want to hit 500hp, besides it can only do +50%-50% over stock injectors, so it wont support 750's.
you'll want to tare down your engine and inspect it to make for damn sure its in good condition. it wouldnt hurt to hot tank your block as well as megnet test for cracks, check the deck clearence. replace your piston rings with high heat rated ones like wisco xx's, replace all your rod and crank bearings, b-shaft removal kit, modify your oil releaf valve for better oil flow, de-burr your oil gallys, new waterpump, and timing belt.
i personally think no2 is awsome. no better HP for the $. it requires some compleatly diffrent tunning, so stay away from it untell you get everything else dialed in.
ps. tube/fin spearco intercooler.
you'll want to tare down your engine and inspect it to make for damn sure its in good condition. it wouldnt hurt to hot tank your block as well as megnet test for cracks, check the deck clearence. replace your piston rings with high heat rated ones like wisco xx's, replace all your rod and crank bearings, b-shaft removal kit, modify your oil releaf valve for better oil flow, de-burr your oil gallys, new waterpump, and timing belt.
i personally think no2 is awsome. no better HP for the $. it requires some compleatly diffrent tunning, so stay away from it untell you get everything else dialed in.
ps. tube/fin spearco intercooler.
2of9
12-24-2004, 12:46 AM
damn, gettin to the 400 at wheels range seems pretty hard work. Hey, gotta question, can the the stock 1g engine (AWD) handle 400 with stock internals? If it cant, what parts of the engine have to be modded?
kjewer1
12-24-2004, 11:24 AM
Any of the 4g63s will do 400 whp with stock internals. And you can make that kind of power on pump gas with a 50 trim if you have some idea what you are doing. Its not as hard as it sounds, but thats all relative, right? If someone gave me a DSM and a couple grand I could hit 400 whp in a weekend. But to people with less experience there is so much to think about, and you can really get bogged down. It's quite overwhelming, and the potential outcome of making a mistake is very expensive. The best thing to do is simply go one part, or group of related parts, at a time. The old fashioned way. Trying to buy and install the whole mod list at once is very difficult and traking down problems will be much more difficult, since so may parts were changed. Just make sure you make wise decisions remembering the end goal, and don't buy anything that will hinder you at 400 whp (and you'll have to upgrade twice), etc.
Here is how I break it down when I consider a particular HP goal.
- Will the motor handle it. In this case yes (400-500hp). That makes things MUCh simpler. Its now all "bolt-on" mods.
- Turbo. The turbo untlimately determines what your max power POTENTIAL is. Trying to make 400 hp on a 600 hp turbo is wasteful and results in unnecessary lag, and trying to do it on a 300 hp turbo obviously isnt going to work ;) Choose wisely, but a little too big is better than a little too small. For 400 whp I would run a TDO6H 20g or a 50 trim of one of the many varaieties. For 500 HP I would run the tried and true 60-1, or an equivelent GT series turbo from SBR, AGP, or FP. There are some great modern turbo choices out there, but there are so many...
- Fuel. How much air you move determines how much fuel you need. Its a lot simpler than people think it is, but its extremely important to get it right. Going too big has no downside besides cost. On my site there is a spread sheet that will tell you what pump and injectors will support a given airflow. Its written in open office, but many people can open it in Excel. Someday I'll make an excel sheet that everyone can use.
- Airflow. FMIC is mandatory. Sheetmetal intake is optional at 400 hp, very highly recomended at 500. Cams are required in both cases. Stock 2g MAS will suffice at 400 HP, but for 1Gs and 500 hp 2Gs a MAFt or similar will be needed.
- Tuning. People have been making 400-500 hp without DSMlink, but I cant imagine life without it. All the power you need without the complexity and risk associated with a standalone.
- Drivetrain. You can either take care of this early, or wait until you blow something up. I've done it both ways, and really have no preference. A 500 hp car driven gently will do fine with stock tranny and such. But a hard launching, tire spinning, wheel hopping 200 hp car is going to break shit.
This is a rough outline of how I approach things. There will always be people that say they made 700 HP on a turbo made of duct tape and fuel mods are for pussies, but stick to what works for the majority, not just for one person.
Hope something in here was helpful...
Here is how I break it down when I consider a particular HP goal.
- Will the motor handle it. In this case yes (400-500hp). That makes things MUCh simpler. Its now all "bolt-on" mods.
- Turbo. The turbo untlimately determines what your max power POTENTIAL is. Trying to make 400 hp on a 600 hp turbo is wasteful and results in unnecessary lag, and trying to do it on a 300 hp turbo obviously isnt going to work ;) Choose wisely, but a little too big is better than a little too small. For 400 whp I would run a TDO6H 20g or a 50 trim of one of the many varaieties. For 500 HP I would run the tried and true 60-1, or an equivelent GT series turbo from SBR, AGP, or FP. There are some great modern turbo choices out there, but there are so many...
- Fuel. How much air you move determines how much fuel you need. Its a lot simpler than people think it is, but its extremely important to get it right. Going too big has no downside besides cost. On my site there is a spread sheet that will tell you what pump and injectors will support a given airflow. Its written in open office, but many people can open it in Excel. Someday I'll make an excel sheet that everyone can use.
- Airflow. FMIC is mandatory. Sheetmetal intake is optional at 400 hp, very highly recomended at 500. Cams are required in both cases. Stock 2g MAS will suffice at 400 HP, but for 1Gs and 500 hp 2Gs a MAFt or similar will be needed.
- Tuning. People have been making 400-500 hp without DSMlink, but I cant imagine life without it. All the power you need without the complexity and risk associated with a standalone.
- Drivetrain. You can either take care of this early, or wait until you blow something up. I've done it both ways, and really have no preference. A 500 hp car driven gently will do fine with stock tranny and such. But a hard launching, tire spinning, wheel hopping 200 hp car is going to break shit.
This is a rough outline of how I approach things. There will always be people that say they made 700 HP on a turbo made of duct tape and fuel mods are for pussies, but stick to what works for the majority, not just for one person.
Hope something in here was helpful...
2of9
12-30-2004, 11:15 AM
hey, i think Boshur Racing.com had something like what GSX Racer had. Its just the simple mods for like...stage 1 is for the 250 to 300 hp range and so on.
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