7mge vs 7mgte question

If I will be rebuilding the entire motor why cant i use a 7mge and turbo that?

You can if you feel like doing it half-assed but either way it will work regardless. Why waste time turbocharging an N/A engine when Toyota did all the hard work for you and built tons of 7m-gte engines. The n/a block is not tapped for the turbo oil return, it's also not tapped for the piston oil squirters. I assume you'll be getting new pistons also, so your not running higher compression with boost? The differences are minor but they all add up, it would be wiser to just buy what Toyota already did for you.

That all makes sense which I have been thinking about Any other opinions

1JZ and 2JZ single and twin turbo swaps are popular.. A lot more time and $$ needed though..

Im with project though, itd make a lot more sence to get a 7M-GTE, if you want a turbo.. A lot of little differences that are a PITA to change over..

Well the cool thing is that they have the same internals. All toyotas have forged crankshafts, and steel connecting rods and good pistons. (thats why they all last so long). As far as the oil return line, run it down the dipstick tube. It worked for me. As far as a pressurized filtered source, there are adapters for that that fit inbetween the oil filter and block. If your rebuilding copletly, just get a better head gasket with a litte more thikness to drop the comp ratio.

some people prefer to run NA motors because of the higher compression ratio. You can't run a lot of boost, but the car has the off idle torque of a NA motor and the extra kick that 9-12 psi of boost can give you. Sort of the best of both worlds FWIW..some of the early JDM Turbo motors did not have skirt sprayers..and they didnt seem to suffer to badly from it.

All depends on how much power you want and how crazy you are going to get with the motor.

If you have minor power gain goals then you can stick with the NA block. Just drop compression slightly to accomodate boost. Then you can still get the low end responsiveness of a NA motor with the bennies. Not to mention you get a fresh motor as opposed to droping in a used low milage turbo engine. don't worry about oil squirters in a low boost aplication. As far as the return line its not hard to tap a fitting into the oil pan and run it that way. If you are going all out wild then you can still stick with your block. The added cost of taping a few squirters and return lines is minor compared to the cost of buying and shipping a turbo motor jsut so it can be ripped down and rebuilt. In a low boost aplication additional fuel can be handled by a piggyback ECU, and in a wild custom aplication you will probably need a whole new ECU set up.

I'm not too sure about the 7m motors just because they are notorious for blowing head gaskets. The 1jz would be probably the best way to go in my oppinion. But if it's not in the budget, I would go ahead and get the 7mgte motor. No sense in having to tear a n/a block down to build a turbo motor when it's already been done as project mentioned earlier. Just makes more sense to do that until the stock motor goes, it will give you enough time to save up for a build if necessary and in your plans to build the car seriously. Take it from me who is one of the probably several people on here now rebuilding their motor. It gets pretty expensive if you want it done correctly. It's the logical way to go.

From all of the comments you see here its obvious there are many ways to proceed; which route you take should really be predicated on your HP goals and a realistic look at your budget. I have seen people start projects and then change directions and goals many times; the result is they wind up spending alot more than they would have if they had their game plan set from the beginning.
Although I have seen early 7mgte's (no squirters) survive for years making well into the 500rwhp range, I would recommend finding a turbo block with squirters in the grand scheme of your project it will be a small cost. Dont worry about the HG failing, if it is prepped properly it wont be a problem. I have run in excess of 33 psi on my motors on many occasions and I have never blown a head gasket on a prepped motor with a metal HG.

My advice is to tell us what HP level you are looking for so you can get a realistic understanding of how much money you need to get there.

The thing that I still don't understand, and that nobody has told me is that, if you do decide to switch from the 7mge to the 7mgte can you still use the same tranny or do you need the tranny, ecu, harness, and what else? I've been thinking about really doing the swap from the 7mge to 7mgte in my mkIII, but nobody specialiasis in my engine anywhere around here, and I don't want to spend 500$ on an engine that someone is gonna F*** up for me, cause they don't know what they are doing, what is your opinion on this guys...?

You're not going to get spoon fed every piece of information, you're going to have to start searching alittle more. :smile: The transmission I have covered atleast ten times but I'll say it again while I'm posting. If it's an auto it's the same transmission from turbo to n/a. The n/a manual is the W-58, it and it's clutchs are good for roughly 350hp daily, although some are pushing more than that. The turbo manual is the R-154, it's good for almost anything you can throw at it. All 7m bellhousings are the same so all three will bolt up, but the driveshafts are different so get the DS that came with the transmission if you swap. If you do a turbo engine swap you must swap the harness and ECU also (regardless of transmission), along with a few sensors and do-dads in the engine bay and gauge cluster. It's all been covered in great detail so just search around.

thanks a lot for your help, I apreciate it

hey guys. while were talking about motor swaps. i have a 89 mk3 and it is a turbo model. (auto unfortunately) i really wanna get driving it so i know how it acts and im not sure what condition its in. i know it is hard starting and usually takes two cranks to get it running. once it runs it seems alright but if the motor is in bad shape what is my best bet.. getting it rebuilt, buying a re build, or swaping it with a completely different motor new or rebuilt. i really love this car and i want to make it as good as possible what ever it takes. the turbo obviously works cause the boost gauge shows activity and i know i can hear it blow off when i build boost. i have no strange noises like valve tap or the turbo grinding. i just want to know what you guys think about my engine and if it seems normal.

(the car ahs 120 origional miles on it and everything mechanical is origional with acception of water pump, thermostat, parts that normally get replaced etc..)

what is my best bet.. getting it rebuilt, buying a re build, or swaping it with a completely different motor new or rebuilt. i really love this car and i want to make it as good as possible what ever it takes. the turbo obviously works cause the boost gauge shows activity and i know i can hear it blow off when i build boost. i have no strange noises like valve tap or the turbo grinding. i just want to know what you guys think about my engine and if it seems normal.

Why are you in such a hurry to rebuild/replace the engine?? Do a compression test or leakdown test, check the turbo for shaft play.. Keep clean oil in and check regularily, I check mine as often as I put gas in.. its normal for turbod engines to use oil.. If all checks out, you've got nothing to worry about.. If its got the stock exhaust on it, you should have that replaced asap.. I just pulled my original exhaust system off my 90'T and it was plugged up pretty bad.. Hard on the turbo and engine..

Also, if you decide to change your HG before you blow it, it'l usually save you some time and $$


Also, your starting problem could be due to a bad cold start injector time switch
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_112.html

or the cold start injector
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_077.html

Ive got an Auto as well and I love it.. the ECT makes the shifts hard and fast..and Ive beaten 2 manuals (both races were completly stock for stock)

thanks fo posting those sites, now I won't have to buy a repair manual ...... :)

thanks so much man for replying. i just drove the car for a while tonight and it seems alright. its hard to tell in the sno but i definately put some time ont it. it started hard agian but the second time i went to start it it was alright (the car was still warm). i think the exhaust is really bad thou cause i feel so much back preasure and its really quiet and humms when the motor idles. the air just kinda blows out of it and theres no real strong flow. im torn between what to replace it with. i like alot of the hks systems but i hear the tanabe are good too. but im open to any suggestions what ever it be. i jsut want a good exhaust that will make the thing run healthier and stronger. i want something that sounds nice too. cause i don't wanna look and sound like a ricer with some lould obnoxious pipe on it. is there is a niec affordable exhaust that fits my needs pelase suggest it so i can replace it soon. also if anyone can suggest other mods i shoulc make before or after this help me out cause im not sure what im doing or in what oder im doing it. thanks

You need to take a chill pill and slow down alittle, don't jump to conclusions so easily. When your car actually starts having a problem then start to worry about it. If it's that cold outside it's going to take more than the flick of the key to start. How exactly can you feel the backpressure in the exhaust? The stock exhaust is very very quiet, what catback you get will depend on what sound you like the most I suppose. How loud is loud to your ears, but nothing is going to sound "buzzy" or "ricey" on a 7m. There are tons of catbacks out there, the only thing I can say is try to get sound clips of them or listen to them in person and decide for yourself. If you want mega-quiet then get the HKS Sport, but you won't gain as much power as you could with it because of the size. If you want loud get a Blitz NUR spec. Tanabe and Fujitsubo are right in the middle IMO. I have a Drager and the sound is great, nice and low. Affordable is a relitive term, get ready to spend a minimum of $500 depending on what you get and if you want to get a test pipe and DP. Also come on with the sig already, you don't have to post it everytime you say something and it doesn't have to be that huge. You should crop it down to the turbo badge if that's what your after, that paint is nothing to be proud of anyway.

well when behind the car the exhaust fumes blow out very softly and theres no real flow like my friends' cars ( is300,eclipse rs, eclipse gsx, civix ex, 3000gt vr4.. and the rest of their cars). and they seem to think theres alot fo back preasure and its not good for it. thats what lead me to believe i need a new exhaust. but your saying what ever i get it will sound good on that car. out of the exhausts recomended what would be a good one to get performance wise. when i go searching should i look for out with or with out a resonator. and what would be a proper size for performance. im not far away from haveing enough money to start investing in parts so ill be making a decision soon and i just want to get the best thing for my car and your guys know this car better then i do. thanks for all the help. also the air filter needs changeing and i fidgured getting an open element filter would be a good idea. are they all about the same quality wise or is there a recomended one to get. and where is a good palce to get them.. i saw a few on ebay but im not sure what im looking for. i assume i need the adapter to fit it.

Well that's doesn't really mean you have alot of backpressure, it only means your engine isn't pumping alot of air at idle. I wouldn't worry about a silencer, it's just a stupid idea to try and quiet down an exhaust that's too loud but all it really does is give it a bad sound. Almost every quality catback out there for the A70 Supra is or should be atleast 85mm or 3" ID (85mm is slightly larger) with the exception of the HKS Sport, I recall it being smaller to give it the very low tone. The only peice to stay away from is the HKS down pipe and knock-off's of it because they have a 2.5" bottleneck. For the filter I would definetly get an Apex-i kit, it will cost you some money but it filters the best and gives the most HP while doing it and will come with everything you need. Thanks for resizing the sig by the way.

geez thanks for all the help! and not a problem.. i just resized it.. it was too big before and i meant to change it. and thank you again for steering me in the right direciton with my newly aquired mk3.