Check Engine Light

!!Check Engine Light

Hello All,

I had posted back a few weeks ago about a check engine light on a 96 Windstar. I had the fuel filter replaced and new plugs/wires. This took care of the misfire, but the check engine light came back on yesterday.Still have to bring it back to get the codes.

About 2 years ago I had the check engine problem , had the O2 sensors replaced. It ended being carbon in the EGR.I was wondering what codes would carbon build in the EGR Port and valves cause? How difficult would it be to clean these myself( knowing that I'm not very sure about mechanic work).

Thanks For the help!!Check Engine Light

The codes generally called are misfire (P0300 series) often in concert with a fuel system rich or lean code (P0170 series).

Cleaning out the deposits requires you to pull the upper intake manifold plenum. What year, engine you using?

I have a 96 3.8L.How difficult of a process wuld it be for a first timer to remove and clean?

It's a day job, really.

You will want to remove the cowling (both the plastic part and the part that houses the windshield washer motor)

You have to remove all the stuff attached to the upper intake plenum-- air filter assy (you can leave the throttle body on), vacuum hoses, EGR. Blow all the dirt and stuff out of the nooks and crannies first so you don't introduce more problems when pulling it off.

The wiring harness likely is attached to a bracket on the back side. You can pull the harness off the breacket and leave it in place with the solenoids, just make sure you take the hoses and connectors off the solenoids.

Use a Haynes or Chilton's for the bolt sequence, and have an in/lb torque wrench available to you when reinstalling the plenum. You will need 8 and 10mm sockets to do this job.

Once you have the plenum off you will see the EGR ports, they will be clogged up with black, resinous goop, and that's what you want to clean out. Try not to get anything down into the intake ports.

Thanks Dngrsone!!
I probably won't get a chance this weekend as we have several Xmas parties to attend, but hopefully by next weekend. Right now the light still stays on, but the gas milage is garbage. Can only get 500(KM)on a tank, use to get 600+(KM) in the city.Other than the gas milage, works perfect. Is there any damage that can occur with this type of problem if it is not fixed right away?

Later
Pryornfld

Not any short-term damage... drove mine for a good three weeks before I did reapirs and no additional problems from it.

Got the codes scanned and it came back as Oxygen 1 sensor lean, Oxygen 2 Sensor rich. I had the same problems about 2+ years ago, O2 sensors replaced. SO this time I don't think that its the sensors. My mechanic said that sometimes when you have a misfire it can foul up the sensors, and he found that if you let the sensors sit in a bowl of coke/pepsi for about 1 Hr , they usually can be saved. Hopefully the case!! If it turns out to be the sensors, how much of a difficult job would it be to replace, and if not, could the egr ports cause the foul up in the sensors?

Just a quick note, I had the vacuum system checked out, and there doesn't appear to be any leaks or lack of pressure in the lines. Is there something else I should be aware of besides the O2 sensors and carbon in the EGR ?

This is a great thread. My light is on on my 98 3.8l, and I'm getting some great tips here.

pryornfld, how much did it cost to get your vacuum lines checked? I've got a leak somewhere.....and it might have to do with my heater becasue only the defrost and the feet vents work.

This is a great thread. My light is on on my 98 3.8l, and I'm getting some great tips here.

pryornfld, how much did it cost to get your vacuum lines checked? I've got a leak somewhere.....and it might have to do with my heater becasue only the defrost and the feet vents work.

I had a backyard mechanic look at the lines and it really didn't cost a whole lot.I got the plugs/wires and fuel filter replaced plus an oil change for $175.00 CDN and this also included the line test.

I had a problem a few years back much like you, and what I had found was a piece of paper got stuck in the venting system (Not sure how), and it prevented the flow of heated air to the other vents. I only had defrost.Also was told that sometimes the switch that selects the actual passage for airflow could be broken and not selecting the correct vents to send air to.

Hope this helps!!

You can get a vacuum hand-tester for about $25 at your local auto-parts store and do a lot of the testing yourself with a Chilton's or Hayne's manual.

If I suspect a part is bad, I can often purchase it at Autozone and return it if that didn't fix the problem.