AX4S Trans Swap - 1997 WindStar

1997 Windstar 3.8L
Purchased with 69,000 Miles (all Fluids Changed, Trans Flushed and filter Changed upon purchase and even 30,000 miles there after for the Transaxle).
Actual Miles to Date: 121,325
Transaxle: AX4S (Part #F65B-1520472-AA)
Problem: Tranaxle will not go into Odrive, Drive, First, or Reverse gears. However, it will go into Second gear. After reving up the engine for about a minute or two (upon starting it) the transaxle will Bag into gear (Drive) and then seem to, somewhat work. I am not driving it since this problem started.
Trans Shops say it is internal and needs to be rebuild - $1500.00.
I thought it may be the EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) Solenoid but not sure. When I bring the EPC up the the Trans machanic after they tell me it is internal, then they say, “it could be”. The EPC replacement fix is about $65.00 and I can do myself.

Any committes on this from those who know these Transaxle?

I am not willing to get this trans rebuild for $1500.00 because:

1.) I do not and can not trust any of the shops doing the rebuilding ... all they want is the $1500.00 they say it will take to fix it (rebuild it).

2.) I do not think this vehicle is worth it. Kelly Blue Book gives it $3850.00 if in excellent condition in my area (Central, PA.). Reality is and what a person would really pay for it is about $2000.00 Tops – of coarse that is in Working Excellent condition.

3.)These shops will only offer a 12,000 mile/6 months warrenty (they must not trust there own ability to correctly rebuilt these transaxles), I put on 12,000 miles in 3 months or less now that I live in “Booney Ville” and have to drive many miles each day.

My solution to this problem is to get a Transaxle from a locale Auto Salvage/Wrecking yard that has 64,000 original miles (they tell me) for $600.00 and drop that baby in.

My Main Questions to those on this Forum, who are willing to take the time to share with this frustrated Mid-Age man are these:

1.)Are there any Picticualars I need to look out for while dropping the existing Transaxle such that I will not break anything else in the process?

2.) Are there any short cuts that will help me reduce “Double Work” because of my ignorance?

3.)What type of Transmission Fluid does this Transaxle REALLY use to ensure prolonged life? That is, with Fluid/Filter Changes/Flushes ever 30,000 miles or less?

4.)Is there anything on the Salvage Transaxle I should look at or replace before installing it to ensure prolonged life?

5.)Will I be able to get the existing Transaxle out from under the vehicle if I have the vehicle jacked up a min. of 16-18 inches?

I would certainly appreciate any other tips or advise before I start into this swap.

Thank you to all who take the time to read this post and are willing to reply with any input or questions. I also hope this thread will help others save money when it comes to their WindStar giving them Transmission Problems.

Luke

I think you're the second person to have this type of problem, which is interesting. There doesn't seem to be an EPC issue with no first gear, according to the service manual, except if the gripe is specifically no manual first gear, then it's low EPC pressure.

What the manual calls out, along with gaskets, adjustments, etc are: Shift Valves, Intermediate Clutch Shuttle Valve, Forward Clutch Control Valve, Springs, Clips—stuck, damaged, misassembled.

I would go with the second-hand machine and maybe disassemble the original for funsies.

You will need to support the engine when removing the transmission (which beats having to drop both enging and tranny, I suppose), and you will need a transmission jack. You will be removing both wheels, the half-shafts, and the forward sub-frame. Drain the transmission pan, this will reduce some weight.

The manual specifies 12.25 quarts of Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-Purpose Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or Equivalent Meeting MERCON® Specification

gotta love cut-and-paste

gotta love cut-and-paste


Hello Dngrsone,

I started disassembling tonight. Drained the Trans pan ... fluid do not look that bad.... no unusually metal parts/shavings in the pan. I really just drop it to see what the fluid/pan looked like.

I need to get a 30mm Deep well socket to get the half-axle nuts off. Do you know if the half-shaft will just pull out of the transaxle like the GM? I am assuming it does.

I will also be cleaning the EGR Ports in the Intake manifold as well as replacing the Head Gaskets because Coolant seems to disappear over a month or two. It has been doing that for a good year now. I assume it is the Head Gaskets slowly leaking and burning up the coolant. No coolant in the Oil. Any advise on this? I see you have been down this road by your Sig.

What is with all the oxygen sensors on the cross over pipe? Man oh Man, are they really needed to make this thing run correctly?

Is it worth changing the Timing Gears and Chain while I have this thing apart? Or is this engine not know for excessive wear on its timing gear/chain?

Would you know the direction of transmission flow of the lines going to the radiator?
I what to flush the transmission area/lines on the radiator to ensure I get all the metal shaving (if any) out before installing the replacement trans. Do I push the cleaner through from the bottom line up through the top or from the Top down out of the bottom line? I would think I would what to flush the opposite direction of the Transmission Fluid... Right?

Thanks for any more “Heads-Up” before I get catch with my Head Down...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=310897

Luke,

The above link is the 'lessons learned' I wrote up after my own head gasket replacement job. You might want to go over it once or twice before you crack open those heads... hopefully make your experience a little less stressful than mine was :)

Check your timing chain cover to make sure the coolant isn't leaking out from there. I've seen a few comments about that in these forums.

There are no recommended replacement intervals for the timing chain... it should last you past 200K, though nothing says you can't check it now.

You can pull the transmission without dropping the engine as well, however, if you want to check the timing chain and you have the capability to drop both engine and tranny, feel free to do so. Having the engine on a stand would probably make doing the heads a lot easier. Keep in mind that you have to drop the stuff through the bottom and that the forward sub-frame comes with, so you can't just drive it up on a ramp and go to town without providing support for the front end so the wheels and such will come off and away. The CV halfshafts are pressed into the transaxle with a retaining clip that will have to be replaced... you'll want to have a puller for that.

The Transmission fluid cooler inlet tube is on the top and the outlet the bottom of the cooler.

I would recommend you purchase the service manuals or at least buy a month's worth of online access to the manuals. You can do either of those options by surfing to www.motorcraftservice.com

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=310897
....


Dngrsone,

You certainly have a wealth of knowledge in this .... as soon as I get the trans in I will be doing the Head Gaskets. I can't pull the engine and Trans together as I would not be able to get the car up high enough. I just hope I can get the car up high enough to get the existing trans out.

I got the Half-shafts out tonight. Next on the agenda is to make a engine support. After looking at the top side of the motor, once most the stuff was taken off, I really do not have much to grap hold of to
support the motor from the top. THe best I think I can do is maybe get a chain on the fornt and back of the heads with some bolts. What the heck did FORD do to hold this motor in place when assembling it. And Ford has a better way.... I am not too sure about that. At least GM leaves the holding straps on the engine for furture use.

You haven't seen any pictures on the net depicting how the engine is supported ... have you?


I will have to look into purchasing a manual.

I PMed you...

The stuck in second gear is "safe mode", happens when the PCM sends out certain error codes or when the wiring harness gets chaffed near the AC line at the upper cowling.

drblackhwk

I just pulled out the engine and Trans together and it was tight but I did it. You need to take off both wheel and lower the car down but of course still albe to move the engine lift.

For the coolant leak....it is POSSIBLE that you have a leaking lower intake manifold gasket. You WILL want to replace those if you do the head gasket. But it is possible that the head gasket is still good.

The price that the shop gave you to re-build the transmission is close to what you can get a rebuilt replacement transmission for. Which I would certainly prefer...as they are done in a factory setting with special equipment that the shop will not have. I mean....if it was MUCH cheaper....then saving a lot of money would make it an option.

There is a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) switch mounted on top of the transmission. The shift lever in the car connects to a cable....which connects to the TRS. The TRS is known to fail.....and is a LOT cheaper and easier to fix than the transmission. Worth looking into before dropping the tranny.

[quote=drblackhwk]The stuck in second gear is "safe mode", happens when the PCM sends out certain error codes or when the wiring harness gets chaffed near the AC line at the upper cowling.

Hello,
I'm new on this Forum, its great! I have spent like 40 hrs reading and finally found the problem with my 01 Windstar, as you describe its stuck in second gear O/D Light flashing getting the code P1747 (Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid short circuit (high input) ), you mention that the problem is with the PCM OR with the wiring harness.. what would be the solution? To change the PCM? or fix the wiring harness? Do I have to take it to the shop to do this work or I can do it myself.. Thanks in advance