04 Silverado Bose Stereo Replacement

Hey Guys, first thread, new member.

I have read the previous threads on "possible" problems with removing the factory bose stereo from the truck. I agree that if all that goes wrong is losing the door chime, it's not a problem, but I'm not convinced that this could be the only downfall.

I have a 2004 Crew Z-71 LS with the 6 disk 6 speaker Bose Stereo. I expected alot more from this $1200 option. The truck is a month old, but I have a kick ass stereo sitting on the bench in the garage from my previous truck. In addition to the whole issue of removing the deck, I've been told there is an issue with adding my subs to the factory deck because it already has a sub and amplifier in the center console (you'd never say) and the amplifier actually powers the speakers so it can't be removed as well.

In short I was told by two seperate audio installers it is a very difficult install and would cost 4-5 hours labour, 150-250 for parts and because Bose uses 2 ohm speakers, I'd have to buy new speakers to match the 4 ohm amp I have.

I trust that these guys know their stuff, and are not making money from the sale of these extra parts, one said I'd have to get them somewhere else anyway because they didn't carry it.

I'd like to hear from anyone that has sucessfully installed aftermarket in the same truck, my truck has the steering wheel controls and the information center below the gauges.

Thanks for any info.

Perry
Calgary, AB

Unfortuanly, I can't be a ton of help. But I do know that the Bose systems do run at 2 ohms and your standard car audio aftermarket amp runs at 4 ohms. It has always been my understanding that the bose speakers/amps would need to come out and a new amp/speakers running at 4 ohms would need to go in. I understand there is an adapter that runs $50-$100 to keep your Steering Wheel controls. I don't believe the dash computer affects the stereo in any way.

Good Luck, I hope others can add more insight.

Adam

PS. Nice truck!

I just installed 2 subs in a Bose factory system. If you need the wires I splliced into to get the RCA signal, I can go back and look. As far as the steering wheel controls, Pacific Audio Company makes a harness that lets you keep these controls, supposedly, I haven't tried one yet. Messing with these systems is a pain in the rear b/c of the extensive wiring and weird speaker ohm's.

Hey thanks for the info guys, I actually wouldn't mind having the wiring info you offered Jayson, just in case I run into trouble. One question, when you hooked up the subs, did you leave the factory sub hooked up? The amplifier under the console runs the front and rear speakers right? So I guess that would have to stay on-line anyway.

Thanks
Perry

Yeah, I did leave the factory sub hooked up. I took the console apart THINKING that I could trace the wires to unhook it. Well, wrong. There's so many frickin' wires that go to that amp its unreal. The reason its so hard to get a good signal for the RCA converter is because of that factory amp. It took me about 4 hours just to find some wires that worked properly. My partner wrote the wiring we did down, but he's in Atlanta on business right now, so it might take a little bit for me to get it.

This thread looks dead. I'd like to revise it, as this is some thing I'm interested as well. I have a 99 Denali by the way. Bose stereo system. The only schumatic that GMC could find was the print off going from the amp to the speakers. A pretty simple hook up. I do understand that the speakers are 2 ohm and the amp is running at 2 ohms. I would be interested as well where you cut to get the rca signal. How did you convert from the speaker wire to the rca signal? Is it a clear signal, or is there a lot of interference?
To answer the previous question. If you where wanting to upgrade your stereo I beleive this would be a very simple solution? Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong. But therotically and I emphacize therotically you could do one of two things. Run all new wiring (not recommended, and not a simple fix). Or even simplier, buy an adapter from the install bay of BestBuy (NOTE: they have different harnesses in the install bay, than in the stereo dept. of the store.) simply pull the old deck, install the new harness to the new deck (VERY SIMPLY.) ALMOST AS EASY AS clicking the harness in place, run rcas cables-PreAmp outputs on the new deck, 4 or 8 GA. power wire, run a igntion wire to the trunk and that's for the sub, simply use the old amp for the old sub and speakers and upgrade the speakers to a 2 ohm speaker? Like MB QUART--MAKES AN OUTSTANDING (BUT VERY PRICEY) 2 OHM SPEAKER. and all your problems would be fixed??? Sounds easy enough??? anyone?? Now if anyone just knew about that splicing before the amp and running to a subwoofer amp?????????????I want to keep if looking stock. :2cents:

I think that you should definately upgrade your BOSE system... I just put in a true Navigation system, with competition speakers, tweeters, subwoofers... etc. Here is an excerpt from my other thread...



Eclipse Navigation System...
AM / FM / CD / MP3 / DVD / GPS Navigation / TV Tuner

Rear Color Camera Mounted Next To My License Plate
( Comes on automatically when I shift into reverse )

6 1/2" MB Quart Component System For Both Of My Front Speakers
( Includes Mids And Tweeters, With Crossovers )

4 1/2" MB Quart Component System For Both Of My Rear Speakers
( Includes Mids And Tweeters, With Crossovers )

2 Kicker Solo Baric Subwoofers
( 12" Each Subwoofer, New 2004 Model )

2 EFX 600 Watt RMS Aplifiers
( 1,700 Watt Peak Power )

1 EFX 100 x 4 RMS Amplifier
( 250 Watt Peak Power )

Custom Molded Subwoofer Enclosure
( Under Rear Seat, Permanetly Mounted To The Floor )

2 Optima Yellow Top Batteries Under The Hood

1 Battery Isolator
( Prevents The Main Battery From Being Completely Drained )

Remote Engine Start Viper Alarm System
( Pager System Notifies Me If Alarm Goes Off Up To 4 Miles Away )

Motion Sensor For Viper Remote Start Alarm System
( If you look into the windows, the alarm will chirp, if you stick you hand inside the truck the siren will go off )

Dual Series 40 Flowmaster Exhaust Going Out The Rear





Here are some pics I took earlier today...

Before Navigation System...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC03617.JPG

After Navigation Installed...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04165.JPG

Viewing The TV Tuner With No TV Reception...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04167.JPG

Another Navigation Screen...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04164.JPG

Dual Flowmaster Exhaust Out The Rear...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04179.JPG

Another Angle...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/Copy%20of%20DSC04178.JPG

Rear MB Quart Component System...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04091.JPG

Viper Alarm System...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/Copy%20of%20DSC04181.JPG

Old Head Unit...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04087.JPG

Kicker Solo Baric Subwoofers...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04094.JPG

Dual Battery Setup In Engine...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04110.JPG

Another Picture Of My Custom Box...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04111.JPG

My HyperTech Programmer...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04169.JPG

TV Tuner Spearkers...
http://www.myhostingdeals.com/truck/DSC04170.JPG

Hey thanks, Hijacker. But if I had $6000 to drop on a stereo I think I would find a little something better to do with my time than ask about slicing wires to run RCAS. and (rigging) my whole stereo system. Nice stereo though.

Hey, nice stereo 03, but yeah, if I had the cash for that sort of gear, I'd just pull everything out and start from scratch for sure.

The thing is I do have a nice JVC deck with amp and subs, just a few months old. I bought it for another truck but sold it and leased this new one. The problem is (as far as I know), you can't just unhook the factory deck, it will cause some "problems", now I've been told this is bullsh*t and I've been told by installers that its true. I can live with the factory deck, but I need those subs back.

The truck is 2 months old and I'd rather not hack it up yet. This is why I'd like to hear from someone who has first hand experience of:
a. removing the factory deck and/or
b. adding subs and amp to the factory system.

I was told from a couple of installers that the factory stereo has to stay hooked up in the truck, you can buy an adapter that will allow you to move the deck under the dash and hook up an aftermarket deck as well. Then from there I guess you can run the amp & subs without any issues from the aftermarket deck, but I assume the factory sub and amp will be dead.

Either way this would be time consuming and therefore expensive to have a installer do the work. Any ideas...

Bump--any adive on where to slice the wire before the amp to run a rca adaptor and rcas to a sub?

Bump--any adive on where to slice the wire before the amp to run a rca adaptor and rcas to a sub?
Right behind the radio. Also yo can find the 12v+ switched output from the radio to be used as an amp turn on.

Ok Now this much I have figured. 4 GA W/ fuse to battery, ASSUMING blue wire from deck for ignition (will double check with multimeter before install), However what about the sound? Is it just speaker wire I need to slice and run an apaptor into RCAS?

Ok Now this much I have figured. 4 GA W/ fuse to battery, ASSUMING blue wire from deck for ignition (will double check with multimeter before install), However what about the sound? Is it just speaker wire I need to slice and run an apaptor into RCAS?
Yeah sort of. You do need the speaker wires but need to patch into those using a line-level converter. It changes the high output speaker to low-level RCA. You can't just graft RCA cables directly into the speaker wires.

quote:
You can't just graft RCA cables directly into the speaker wires.:-) lol.
Thank you for the response. I'm assumming you've done this before. So just one more question. I am assumming there are just 4 sets of speaker wire going from the deck to the amp and from there the subwoofer is probably bridged off of 2 channels down to 2 or 1 ohm(s). Assuming there are only 4 sets of wires (4 channels). Which speaker should I cut and run the adaptor too? Should I run from Right rear Negative and Left Rear Positive? ETC. Will this take any wattage from my speakers? will they distort because of the lack of ampreage going to the amp? Thank you in advance for any response.

This thread has confused me already...But anyhow. I spliced the RCA converter to I believe a pink wire and green wire behind the radio. I still cant put my hands on that stupid drawing I made. The guy I did this for is SUPER picky, but he actually liked the way it sounded. No motor noise, or electrical interference.

Ok After about 6 hours I've got it figured out. Storms way will work. Wish I had seen his post earlier, I wouldnt have had to slice into the factory wiring. However, I have it done now so here is what I did for ANY inquiring minds. The following is a step by step process on the install of amp/sub while keeping everything else factory. If only I could get my dome ligts to come on automatically :uhoh: .

Step 1: Remove Dash- Put E-brake on. Put car in 1 so the dash comes out. Steering wheel at its lowest level use a small flat head screwdriver to pull the dash cover off.Note: There are no screws holding the cover on. ONLY CLIPS---Pops right off.
Step 2:Remove all clips to harnesses going to Dash. _the fog light is kind of a pain. For this I took the fog light button off of the dash. (basically disassembling part of the dash board).
Step 3: There is a clip on both sides of the stereo. Simply push down on those clips and the radio should pull right out.
Step 4:THE LONG PROCESS:Okay with the help of my trusty Multimeter I have Simplified this process and hope this saves about 4 1/2 hours of pain. LOL. After pulling the deck out install your line out to Rca converter. Easiest way to do this is to take the harness off of the radio, and flip the harness to the bottom facing up. With this down you should have a bare wire at the top right (bottom left when harness is facing the right way) I used this for a ground for both RR and RL -. Just to the left (right when facing upwards) of that should be a brown wire. This is your Rear Left +. Tie your Left channel Line Out + to this wire. This will require a slice then sodier and/or black tape the wires together. Skip the next wire which is yellow. The next wire is Blue use this wire to tie your Rear right + line out too. This should cover the install on the line out converter. I used the Yellow wire on the bottom left-2nd from end (When harness facing the correct upwards way) as my accessory switch for the amp. PLEASE NOTE 2 THINGS. IF DOING THIS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE SAME HARNESS COLORS ON MINE ARE AS FOLLOWS. RIGHT TO LEFT WHILE THE HARNESS IS UPSIDE DOWN. BARE WIRE,BROWN,YELLOW,BLUE,GREEN/WHITE STRIP,ETC. SECOND PLEASE NOTE THAT HAVING THE RR AND RL -'S GROUNDED TOGETHER THAT I AM BASICALLY BRIDGING THE TWO CHANNELS. THE SOUND IS 100% THE SAME HOWEVER I DON'T KNOW IF THIS WILL DO ANY LONG TERM DAMAGE TO THE DECK.
Step 5: pull out the heat control dials. install the deck back in its original position, allowing the rca converter to fall behind the heat dials.. Push the heat dials back in place. (This step was necessary to me as the radio wound't go back into place with the rca converter behind it, However there is plenty of room behind the heat dials.
Step 6: reinstall everything.
Step 7:Run Rcas and power wire down seperate sides of the car. I used RCAS on the driver side and the Power wire on the Passengars side. When drilling through the fire wall to run your Power cable, First Remove your Coolent OverFlow box. You will see your antenna wire and to the left and 4 inches a big block of taped up wires. Drill between those 2 areas and you will be safe. In my opinion use 4 GA or better for your ground and power wire. You only hae to purchase the wire once. Don't forget to mount your fuse block close to the battery. Safety First.
This Should pretty much cover all the steps. I hope this helps any other questions anybody might have?
(sure wish I would have seen that post earlier, Would have been worth paying the $50 instead of $28 to not have to splice into two of my factory wires and POSSBILY have my two channels bridged.) On that note does any one know if all 4 channels are grounded seperately or together? WOuld like to know if I bridged it or if it's ok to ground them together.
Now just have to figure out what I did to stop my dome light from working when door ajar.(works when I turn it on manually).. HMMMM......

This is a pretty old thread, so I am hoping someone sees these questions... I have couple questions about my 2005 Silverado Crew Cab

1. How do I know if I have the subwoofer in the center console? What size is it...?

2. Is there an adapter out there, that would allow you to completely bypass the Bose Amplifier, that already has RCA and all the wiring needed to add an aftermarket amplifier? Or something close?

3. Where is the amplifier located?

Thanks

1. If you have BOSE, you have a sub in the console I think it's a 6.5" or an 8".

2. check out pacific audio company to see

3. The amp is located inside the console under the cupholders. You'll see it if you take it apart.

Cool thanks for the info.

Another couple questions I have since I am thinking of keeping the bose amp to power my speakers... does anyone know what the power output per channel is?

Also, I want to replace the factory speakers with a better set of kenwoods that do not require a lot of power. As far as the front mids/tweets, I bought a set of components with the woofer and the tweets seperate - Now, I don't know whether or not to use the kenwood crossover or to simply wire the woofer and tweeter directly and not use the kenwood crossover. So, I guess my other questions are - does the bose system have a crossover already built in, if so how is it implemented? Should I use the kenwood crossover or not?

Anyone have a lead on where I can get one of those MP3 playing factory head units? I know they come in Colorados, and probably everything else. Say what you want, but nothing LOOKS better than a factory unit.

Another couple questions I have since I am thinking of keeping the bose amp to power my speakers... does anyone know what the power output per channel is?

Also, I want to replace the factory speakers with a better set of kenwoods that do not require a lot of power. As far as the front mids/tweets, I bought a set of components with the woofer and the tweets seperate - Now, I don't know whether or not to use the kenwood crossover or to simply wire the woofer and tweeter directly and not use the kenwood crossover. So, I guess my other questions are - does the bose system have a crossover already built in, if so how is it implemented? Should I use the kenwood crossover or not?

Another couple questions I have since I am thinking of keeping the bose amp to power my speakers... does anyone know what the power output per channel is?

Also, I want to replace the factory speakers with a better set of kenwoods that do not require a lot of power. As far as the front mids/tweets, I bought a set of components with the woofer and the tweets seperate - Now, I don't know whether or not to use the kenwood crossover or to simply wire the woofer and tweeter directly and not use the kenwood crossover. So, I guess my other questions are - does the bose system have a crossover already built in, if so how is it implemented? Should I use the kenwood crossover or not?
The stock Bose power is 18 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. Your new speakers are probably 4ohms so it will put out a little less. I'd use the crossover if I was you.

To make an old thread older, I'm pretty sure the factory speakers are 5ohm...which leaves not many options for adding aftermarket speakers to the factory Bose amp without dropping below its load stability.

Anyone have a lead on where I can get one of those MP3 playing factory head units? I know they come in Colorados, and probably everything else. Say what you want, but nothing LOOKS better than a factory unit.

jeverett thanks for the help... one problem though. I cannot seem to find where the sub is located in the center console... is it hidden somewhere? I see the amp, but no sub... Help!?!

Hi, I just came across this site on the net. I bought an 06 silverado Ext-cab Z71 last month.. I wanted the Bose sound system but they didnt have anything that I wanted with it. I just bought the 6 disk changer off my buddy who has an 06 suburban, so it will look like its always had it. I'm planning on looking for some Bose speakers and the little tweeters by the windsheild. I'm wondering if you guys/girls out there can give me some info about how to go about making my tunes sound a lot better, or if anyone has Bose Speakers. Also does the 6 disk changer have a built in Amp or something. I though I heard that somewhere. Thanks!

Ryan

I don't know the answers to the latest questions. My wife's 04 Suburban is non-bose, and sounds horrible. She's happy with it though, and I never drive it.

I found this site searching for an easy way to add a sub to the bose (blows) system in my 06 Silverado ExtCab. As everybody has pointed out there isn't an easy way. I pulled the seats and center console out to get to the unsatisfactory 5.5" -- YES, 5.5" -- bose woofer and its speaker wires. From there I soldered extensions and fed an Infinity Basslink under the rear seat. Now it sounds great with the treble near max on a CD or satellite radio station. Local FM stations are so over processed they sound awful in comparison -- all boomy with no treble at all.

Now to add more tweets to get the treble in line. Can't be my 39 year old ears, shooting and listening to loud music all life long. Definitely not that.

If there was only an easy way to defeat the automatic headlamps, automatic door locks, and the other irritating "safety features" that make me wish I still had my F350 -- then I could say I'm happy with the Silverado.

if the factory bose speakers are running at 2 ohms couldnt you replace the one speaker with 2 speakers wired in parallel at 2 ohms weither is be 2 coaxials or a coaxial and a tweeter for each previous speaker. has anyone tried this??

Newbie here,

On my silverado i had no problem with installing an aftermarket radio. Since my first initial install, i have had 3 head units in it. I did a simple install of taking the factory radio out and putting in the new one in it's place. The install did not affect the bose system at all. All I did was the general install of buying a wiring harness and splicing wires and getting the radio bracket for the face to fit in. I am running 2 10" kicker subs and sounds awesome. When i disconnect the amp the factory speakers with tweeters and all sound they way they are supposed to.



Hey Guys, first thread, new member.

I have read the previous threads on "possible" problems with removing the factory bose stereo from the truck. I agree that if all that goes wrong is losing the door chime, it's not a problem, but I'm not convinced that this could be the only downfall.

I have a 2004 Crew Z-71 LS with the 6 disk 6 speaker Bose Stereo. I expected alot more from this $1200 option. The truck is a month old, but I have a kick ass stereo sitting on the bench in the garage from my previous truck. In addition to the whole issue of removing the deck, I've been told there is an issue with adding my subs to the factory deck because it already has a sub and amplifier in the center console (you'd never say) and the amplifier actually powers the speakers so it can't be removed as well.

In short I was told by two seperate audio installers it is a very difficult install and would cost 4-5 hours labour, 150-250 for parts and because Bose uses 2 ohm speakers, I'd have to buy new speakers to match the 4 ohm amp I have.

I trust that these guys know their stuff, and are not making money from the sale of these extra parts, one said I'd have to get them somewhere else anyway because they didn't carry it.

I'd like to hear from anyone that has sucessfully installed aftermarket in the same truck, my truck has the steering wheel controls and the information center below the gauges.

Thanks for any info.

Perry
Calgary, AB