Removing tape residue
Captain Mark
11-19-2004, 06:03 PM
Howdy folks,
So I've pulled all the masking tape (Tamiya brand) from my NSX, and have found that there's some marking where the tape was. I don't believe the paint has lifted, but rather some of the sticky 'stuff' from the tape has remained on the paint and is just visible with the right light reflection on it.
I've tried cutting compound, then kerosene to get it off, but no luck yet. And I'm reluctant to try sanding as I've spent sooooo long on this paintwork I don't want to sand through to the undercoat and have to start over.
So, does anyone have any tips for getting rid of this masking tape residue? Any help greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Mark
So I've pulled all the masking tape (Tamiya brand) from my NSX, and have found that there's some marking where the tape was. I don't believe the paint has lifted, but rather some of the sticky 'stuff' from the tape has remained on the paint and is just visible with the right light reflection on it.
I've tried cutting compound, then kerosene to get it off, but no luck yet. And I'm reluctant to try sanding as I've spent sooooo long on this paintwork I don't want to sand through to the undercoat and have to start over.
So, does anyone have any tips for getting rid of this masking tape residue? Any help greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Mark
Ran
11-19-2004, 06:06 PM
I have no experience with paint, but if it wont take off the paint, maybe put a bit water on the spot and rub it gently off?
Please don't do this without thinking a few times, I don't want to be the cause to the wreckage of your model.
Please don't do this without thinking a few times, I don't want to be the cause to the wreckage of your model.
Captain Mark
11-19-2004, 06:10 PM
Hi Ran, that's the quickest response I've ever seen! Don't worry, I'm thinking long and hard about how to fix this problem.
The kero didn't affect the paint, so I would assume water would be fine too. However I'll be testing everything on a spare or inconspicuous part first. I'll post here if the water works.
Thanks.
The kero didn't affect the paint, so I would assume water would be fine too. However I'll be testing everything on a spare or inconspicuous part first. I'll post here if the water works.
Thanks.
ImolaEK
11-19-2004, 06:28 PM
Hi Ran, that's the quickest response I've ever seen! Don't worry, I'm thinking long and hard about how to fix this problem.
The kero didn't affect the paint, so I would assume water would be fine too. However I'll be testing everything on a spare or inconspicuous part first. I'll post here if the water works.
Thanks.
That has happend to me plenty of times. Just wetsand it with 2000 grit and then use compound. Be careful to run through the paint. It might be wise of you to shoot a light coat of clear over those areas that the tape has lifted.
The kero didn't affect the paint, so I would assume water would be fine too. However I'll be testing everything on a spare or inconspicuous part first. I'll post here if the water works.
Thanks.
That has happend to me plenty of times. Just wetsand it with 2000 grit and then use compound. Be careful to run through the paint. It might be wise of you to shoot a light coat of clear over those areas that the tape has lifted.
primera man
11-19-2004, 07:19 PM
I've never known the tamiya tape to do this. Are you sure its stuff left from the tape?
You may have taped to soon after painting and left marks in the paint due to it being not dry enough.
You may have taped to soon after painting and left marks in the paint due to it being not dry enough.
freakray
11-19-2004, 10:45 PM
Sounds like what P-Man is talking about, how long did you wait after painting before masking?
Captain Mark
11-19-2004, 10:56 PM
About 3 weeks between a clear coat and masking (for black trim).
Problem is now fixed!
I used 4000 grit sandpaper to get the bulk of it off, and then cleaned up the area with Tamiya cutting Compound. Good as new!
Although, I've handled this kit so darn much that it seems there's the odd blemish coming up in the bodywork. Ah well, too late, now... and that's another story.
Cheers folks.
Problem is now fixed!
I used 4000 grit sandpaper to get the bulk of it off, and then cleaned up the area with Tamiya cutting Compound. Good as new!
Although, I've handled this kit so darn much that it seems there's the odd blemish coming up in the bodywork. Ah well, too late, now... and that's another story.
Cheers folks.
Ran
11-20-2004, 08:56 AM
Hi Ran, that's the quickest response I've ever seen! Don't worry, I'm thinking long and hard about how to fix this problem.
The kero didn't affect the paint, so I would assume water would be fine too. However I'll be testing everything on a spare or inconspicuous part first. I'll post here if the water works.
Thanks.
You're welcome, glad to help:smile:
The kero didn't affect the paint, so I would assume water would be fine too. However I'll be testing everything on a spare or inconspicuous part first. I'll post here if the water works.
Thanks.
You're welcome, glad to help:smile:
hueb_s
11-22-2004, 05:37 AM
About 3 weeks between a clear coat and masking (for black trim).
I had the same probs with my ESCI M1, the paint was not really dried... I usually use alcohol-based Tamiya acrylic paint (from the little bottles) and this stuff needs WEEEEEKS to dry completely. It also dries from the outside to the inside, meaning when the surface is dry, it doesn't mean the whole paint job has thoroughly dried...
I just waited, wet sanded with #6000 and sprayed over with a bit clear, wet sanded again before decaling and final clear cote...
I had the same probs with my ESCI M1, the paint was not really dried... I usually use alcohol-based Tamiya acrylic paint (from the little bottles) and this stuff needs WEEEEEKS to dry completely. It also dries from the outside to the inside, meaning when the surface is dry, it doesn't mean the whole paint job has thoroughly dried...
I just waited, wet sanded with #6000 and sprayed over with a bit clear, wet sanded again before decaling and final clear cote...
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