how do u remove steering pump?

Do you need to remove the pully first to remove the power steeing pump.
Does the pully bolt turn the normal direction?

Yes you need to remove the pulley first and you need a special tool to do it. You can get the special tool from Snap On or Matco dealer. Some auto parts stores may carry this special tool. You also need a special tool to put the pulley back on. Just had to remove ours from a 96 3.8.

kbreier
Are you trying to remove the pulley from the pump, or remove the pump from the engine?

The pump comes off the engine with pulley intact.

If we were to replace our power steering pump, to remove the pump from the bracket, the pulley MUST be removed.

I stand corrected. Never knew the '96 had that configuration. My Haynes recommends the bracket be removed at the same time...don't know if that helps.

Do you need to remove the pully first to remove the power steeing pump.
Does the pully bolt turn the normal direction?

Thanks Rowdy. actually I'm pulling the heads and I need to remove the pump and bracket together. I understand i need the tool to pull it off the shaft but dont you need to remove the hex bolt from the shaft first and is it standard thread?

Just replaced head gaskets in our van this week, the end of the shaft has what looks like a allen head bolt but that is the end of the pump shaft, if you have an actual bolt that's new to me. I didn't believe they had bolts in them. To the best of my knowledge there is a bolt under the pulley that you will need to take out to get the bracket off. Maybe they added the bolt after our year, to keep the bolt threads from rotting out.

Sorry, my bad about the hex bolt,I meant to say allen, but I just cant seem to get it to break loose. I'm afraid the bolt is going to snap.Oh well worse case I'll have to replace the pump.

Is the bolt head flush with the pulley??

Is the bolt head flush with the pulley??
Yes pretty much but as I try to turn it out it is veeery stiff and doesnt seem to be backing out?

Do you need to remove the pully first to remove the power steeing pump.
Does the pully bolt turn the normal direction?

Kbreier, what year is your Windstar?

The pulley is press-fit, not sure why the shaft is hex-cut like that, but on the '97 3.8l engine you just pull it off and press it back on. You can get a pulley puller/installer at Autozone for around $26.

I just finished doing the heads on mine, so if you want some lessons learned, shoot me an email: dngrsone(a)sti.net

Kbreier, what year is your Windstar?

The pulley is press-fit, not sure why the shaft is hex-cut like that, but on the '97 3.8l engine you just pull it off and press it back on. You can get a pulley puller/installer at Autozone for around $26.

I just finished doing the heads on mine, so if you want some lessons learned, shoot me an email: dngrsone(a)sti.net

Yea thanks for the help. Just got them both off. I was getting water in the oil. and the # 1 cyl. would misfire sometimes causing the check engine light to come on.My code reader told me which cyl. So I assumed the problem area would be #1 but I cant find any signs of blown gasket. This gasket is 4 layers so it could be leaking between layers.

I am no expert on going down that far.....I've been very lucky.....
From reading on this and several other forums.....the lower intake manifold gaskets are also a common failure....that can look like a head gasket...particularly in the coolant in cylinder or oil. Both the head gasket and lower intake manifold gasket can cause this.
So....since you are removing the lower intake manifold to get to the head gasket...... I would want to put a new lower intake manifold gasket set in as well.

Also...since you are removing the power steering pump....might be a good time to flush and replace the power steering fluid. It runs hot in the windstar....DO NOT use power steering fluid. You will need either "type F" transmission fluid or "Mercon" transmission fluid....depending on your year. I would recommend a synthetic that will take the extra heat.
My '96 calls for a "type F" and I used Redline Power steering fluid (a fully synthetic)...which called out the Ford Specification number that is in my owner's manual.
If your manual calls for a Mercon fluid....Mobil 1 would be an excellent choice.
Using the wrong fluid....as in many cases.....can cause problems....
So it IS worth the extra time and effort to research and find the correct fluid that meets the Ford specifications.

You mean to tell me I may have pulled the heads for naught! AAARRRRR!

I noticed that #1 piston is not going all the way to the top of the cyl when i turn it over like the rest of them. Its short by about 3/16",- What the *#@

That don't sound good. Can you lift the piston using a suction cup?... may have to put Vasoline on top of the piston. Or you may have to drop the oil pan to see if that crank throw is damaged.

That don't sound good. Can you lift the piston using a suction cup?... may have to put Vasoline on top of the piston. Or you may have to drop the oil pan to see if that crank throw is damaged.
Turns out the rod was bent.I think the piston was stuck in the cyl from sitting with water in the cyl. I shall hone the cyl ,buy a new rod and rings for the piston and put her back togther again.

Better the rod than the crank. The rod may have gotten bent when water was captured on top of piston during a compression up-stroke.

By the way, some posters have mentioned the front engine cover gaskets as a route for water getting into the engine...but that might just put water into the crankcase, not the combustion chamber...but I've not seen any of this, so I'm just talking.

The Ford Service person said it was possible the intake gasket could leak but head gasket is usually the problem. So maybe that work was not for nothing after all, and thats where I found the piston not coming all the way up (3/16"), hence bent rod. I wounder how the engine would have run like that,everything else fixed?

I noticed that #1 piston is not going all the way to the top of the cyl when i turn it over like the rest of them. Its short by about 3/16",- What the *#@

Like you said, the leak could have been between the layers on the head gaskets. I had a slow cooling leak out of the back head but never "found" the actual leak in the gasket, so it's entirely possible that you did yourself a favor by pulling the heads.

Be sure to check your valve train from the hydraulic lifters on up for excessive wear.

I am really concerned about this #1 piston thing... the piston tops out at a lower elevation than the others do? That isn't good at all.

kbreier
I agree with your service contact if yours is a 95. 96 or possibly 97... anything later than that I would guess the headgasket would not have been the original problem. But like someone has said, you needed to remove the heads anyway.

Does anyone know how to remove the bottom bolt off the bracket on the power steering pump? Thanx.