98 windstar
shaner
09-28-2004, 05:08 AM
Good morning! My neighbor has one of these 1998. It was parked for 3 years because the dealership told her that rack was bad in it. I had it re-checked and was told that the power steering pump was bad. We since then have replaced it twice in less than 6 monthes. The idler pulley went out in it the other day. Is this common with this vehicle for the power steering pumps to go on them. Has anyone else had this issue.
wiswind
09-28-2004, 07:27 AM
1. Flush the power steering fluid with new, clean fluid. Make sure to use the correct fluid for your year (It may be Mercon transmission fluid....if so, I recommend Mobil 1 synthetic). Contamination.....crud.....may be in your fluid....which is not good for your pump....or your steering rack.
2. Make sure that your steering points, tie rod ends, lower ball joints are lubricated. You can get a "Grease Needle" at your local auto parts store. This connects to your grease gun.....and you can inject grease into these points.
If these points are tight....MUCH extra work is required of your power steering to turn your wheels.
I know it sound radical....but I have done this....as this is the only way to get grease into these points. It only takes a little bit....so don't overdo it.
Having sat for 3 years, it is almost certain that these need to be done.
2. Make sure that your steering points, tie rod ends, lower ball joints are lubricated. You can get a "Grease Needle" at your local auto parts store. This connects to your grease gun.....and you can inject grease into these points.
If these points are tight....MUCH extra work is required of your power steering to turn your wheels.
I know it sound radical....but I have done this....as this is the only way to get grease into these points. It only takes a little bit....so don't overdo it.
Having sat for 3 years, it is almost certain that these need to be done.
ModMech
09-28-2004, 09:16 AM
P/S pumps can go out for any number of reasons. Three of the most common are :
-bad pump (poorly made/rebuilt)
-not properly bled of air when installed
-binding in the steering. Could be lower ball joints, or the rack itself.
To check the steering, you need to remove the OUTER tie rod ends from the spindles, and piviot the assemble from left to right. If it turns freely the ball joints are not frozen. Next, refit the tie rod nuts onto the joints, but don't install in spindles. As you tighten the nuts, the joint should spin with moderate effort.
The only way to bleed the P/S of air, is to fill it, run for a minute, shut it off and let it sit for 5 min or so. Recheck the level, add as needed. Repeat this until the level is stable from one time to the next. Now, start the engine, and turn the sheel from full Rt to full L and back twice stopping in the middle. Shut off, wait 15-20 min and recheck level, add as needed. Contiunue until level is stable. Basically, the air canot get out if you are continously circulating it, and more importantly, you DO NOT want the pump level to get too low or the pump parts will be damaged.
With the tie rod ends still off, start engine and attempt to turn wheel, it should move with very little effort from full lock to full lock. If not, the rack is bad.
-bad pump (poorly made/rebuilt)
-not properly bled of air when installed
-binding in the steering. Could be lower ball joints, or the rack itself.
To check the steering, you need to remove the OUTER tie rod ends from the spindles, and piviot the assemble from left to right. If it turns freely the ball joints are not frozen. Next, refit the tie rod nuts onto the joints, but don't install in spindles. As you tighten the nuts, the joint should spin with moderate effort.
The only way to bleed the P/S of air, is to fill it, run for a minute, shut it off and let it sit for 5 min or so. Recheck the level, add as needed. Repeat this until the level is stable from one time to the next. Now, start the engine, and turn the sheel from full Rt to full L and back twice stopping in the middle. Shut off, wait 15-20 min and recheck level, add as needed. Contiunue until level is stable. Basically, the air canot get out if you are continously circulating it, and more importantly, you DO NOT want the pump level to get too low or the pump parts will be damaged.
With the tie rod ends still off, start engine and attempt to turn wheel, it should move with very little effort from full lock to full lock. If not, the rack is bad.
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