I got a 1992 plymouth laser rs turbo please read!!!!
TMUMMY
09-14-2004, 06:33 PM
Okay, well I was woundering how much horsepower can the stock 4g63 engine hold that is in my car. It has 108,000 miles on it, is it still okay to do a lot of bolt ons or should I just rebuild the engine???? And also I can't find a catback exhaust for it, its fwd, could someone tell me a place I can get one?
Also my goal is to get atleast 250-275 hp out of my car how much would it cost? and will my engine be able to hold that horsepower with the 108,000 that its got on it.
Also my goal is to get atleast 250-275 hp out of my car how much would it cost? and will my engine be able to hold that horsepower with the 108,000 that its got on it.
10.5sec92AWDTALON
09-14-2004, 06:47 PM
I ran 12.4@ 110 with my 1992 Talon on the original stock turbo with 135,000 miles on the original, unopened motor, so I would say if it's been taken care of it could still be quite strong and respond to mods well.
TMUMMY
09-14-2004, 06:51 PM
Is it still running????? And what all did you do to it to get it to run that fast???
10.5sec92AWDTALON
09-14-2004, 07:29 PM
I'm running mid 10's now. I ran that 12.4 back in like 1997 or so. Actually held the record for fasted stock turbo 1G AWD DSM for a little while.
Figure the 12.4 was about 350 HP.
Mods were very simple and cheap. I do all my own work and track test every little mod for effectivness.
First make sure all is well under the hood. Then:
Perform freebies:
block the EGR.
Block TB coolant lines.
Bump timing 4 degrees.
Remove MAF lower honeycomb/star silencer. Hack lower wall out of MAF.
Hack off the air can horn. Cut bottom of air can to let in additional cool air from below.
remove boost control solinoid.
If you have fog lights, remove the one blocking the I/C.
Trim bigger holes in back of splash guard to allow I/C to have airflow over it.
Now:
Get a boost gauge (stock one is 100% usless).
Get full O2 back exhaust, any cheap pressbent system will do. Use a cat bypass and no muffler.
Hardwire fuel pump or get aftermarket pump.
Install NGK 1 step colder plugs gapped slightly tighter than stock gap.
Get a K/N type air filter.
Flush and fill cooling system with 50/50 mix. Install 1 step cooler thermostat and bottle of Water Wetter.
If you're handy, port the living shit out of the O2 housing, turbo hot side & exhaust mani.
Make cheap, homemade boost controler.
Get large turbo outlet elbow and large throttle body inlet elbow.
Mod stock I/C to 2.5" inlet and outlet pipes, get some cheap pipe and pipe the rest of the way with 2.5".
dial in as much boost as you can before fuel cut, around 21 PSI.
Run high 12's on pump gas and as fast as 12.4 on race gas.
My cost was under $1200.
Get ready to need a new clutch too soon, $375.
These are prove, relatively safe mods.
Thing is you need to know what you're doing. You need to start to watch your O2 voltage once your into the low 13's. I used a cheap $25 DVOM, safer to run a bit rich than lean, shoot for .900 voltage, if it drops below .850 your pump is lacking &/or your injectors. I got by with stock injectors to 11.75, many folks don't. Depends how good a pump you have and how well your injectors are flowing. If you hack the MAS right you can get by with a lot of airflow. I know cars that have run into the 10's with a hacked MAS.
These are not some freak times. If you're a shit driver you'll run slower as ANY car will. If the car is in a state of poor repair you'll run like shit as ANY car will. If you're a reasonably good driver and the car is in reasonably good repair you'll run these times and faster even.
It's all about airflow, sufficient fuel, & preventing knock which not only is harmfull but it pulls timing killing HP. A lot of the simple mods are for knock prevention, they are very simple but HIGHLY effective on these cars.
Figure the 12.4 was about 350 HP.
Mods were very simple and cheap. I do all my own work and track test every little mod for effectivness.
First make sure all is well under the hood. Then:
Perform freebies:
block the EGR.
Block TB coolant lines.
Bump timing 4 degrees.
Remove MAF lower honeycomb/star silencer. Hack lower wall out of MAF.
Hack off the air can horn. Cut bottom of air can to let in additional cool air from below.
remove boost control solinoid.
If you have fog lights, remove the one blocking the I/C.
Trim bigger holes in back of splash guard to allow I/C to have airflow over it.
Now:
Get a boost gauge (stock one is 100% usless).
Get full O2 back exhaust, any cheap pressbent system will do. Use a cat bypass and no muffler.
Hardwire fuel pump or get aftermarket pump.
Install NGK 1 step colder plugs gapped slightly tighter than stock gap.
Get a K/N type air filter.
Flush and fill cooling system with 50/50 mix. Install 1 step cooler thermostat and bottle of Water Wetter.
If you're handy, port the living shit out of the O2 housing, turbo hot side & exhaust mani.
Make cheap, homemade boost controler.
Get large turbo outlet elbow and large throttle body inlet elbow.
Mod stock I/C to 2.5" inlet and outlet pipes, get some cheap pipe and pipe the rest of the way with 2.5".
dial in as much boost as you can before fuel cut, around 21 PSI.
Run high 12's on pump gas and as fast as 12.4 on race gas.
My cost was under $1200.
Get ready to need a new clutch too soon, $375.
These are prove, relatively safe mods.
Thing is you need to know what you're doing. You need to start to watch your O2 voltage once your into the low 13's. I used a cheap $25 DVOM, safer to run a bit rich than lean, shoot for .900 voltage, if it drops below .850 your pump is lacking &/or your injectors. I got by with stock injectors to 11.75, many folks don't. Depends how good a pump you have and how well your injectors are flowing. If you hack the MAS right you can get by with a lot of airflow. I know cars that have run into the 10's with a hacked MAS.
These are not some freak times. If you're a shit driver you'll run slower as ANY car will. If the car is in a state of poor repair you'll run like shit as ANY car will. If you're a reasonably good driver and the car is in reasonably good repair you'll run these times and faster even.
It's all about airflow, sufficient fuel, & preventing knock which not only is harmfull but it pulls timing killing HP. A lot of the simple mods are for knock prevention, they are very simple but HIGHLY effective on these cars.
JoeWagon
09-15-2004, 02:14 AM
10.5 lets his secrets loose finally :) You may be able to get to your power goal without upgrading much, which is going to be fine on a motor of 100+k miles. Making sure your engine is in good running condition is necessary for ALL milage cars, so be sure to do that, and your car will be as fast as any.
northriverflames
09-15-2004, 02:24 PM
Go with a high flow fuel pump and better injectors, that will help alot too!
TMUMMY
09-15-2004, 02:58 PM
Well, what size injectors, And could you tell me where to find a catback for my car, I see them for awd, but it is hard to find them for fwd.
P.S Thanks to everyone that has answerd my questions.
P.S Thanks to everyone that has answerd my questions.
10.5sec92AWDTALON
09-15-2004, 03:23 PM
You don't need different injectors at the power level you're targeting. Either just a hardwire to the stock pump or a 1 step up aftermarket pump. I haven't checked around for FWD exh. but I'm sure they're out there. Do a google.
10.5sec92AWDTALON
09-15-2004, 03:56 PM
[QUOTE=JoeWagon]10.5 lets his secrets loose finally :) QUOTE]No secrets here Joe. :)
First off for reference back then only 2 DSM's had finally cracked into the 10's, Glazer with a 10.8 and Switzer with a 10.98.
The 14b record was a huge deal back then for a lot of folks.
When I was getting ready to run with my attempt at a 14b record breaking setup back then I was posting on the CCDSM forum, most everyone said I was full of crap and would not beat Hallmans record.
The minute I ran that 12.4 I posted my mods for everyone. Folks thought I was full of crap, in fact many folks were doubting Hallmans earlier record of 12.57 on the 14b, that record stood for a few years. Little did they know when Marc ran that Shep was there too with his car and ran very close to that same time with a slightly different setup.
My car was fully loaded, A/C, all options, 130,000 miles on an unopened motor. A set of worn out stock size Yokohama tires with lowered pressure and a front strut bar were my chassis mods, LOL!
Right about that time the late Jeff Carpenter ran a 12.27 on the 14b, but it should be known he had extensive mods, internal work and a lightened car. I talked with him after that and he felt my 12.4 was more impressive than his 12.27 considering my simple mods and he felt it was more in the spirit of the stock 14b record actually. Jeff seemed like a cool guy.
Doug Derby and Leon Reitman also ran some fast numbers later on back then with the 14b but they had heavier mods AND their mod listed seemed to change every time they told the story! Phil Beers also went on a few years later to run almost a 12 flat on the 14b after I gave him quite a bit of advice on mods, he too had a very lightened up car though.
Recently Leon has ran some sick time like an 11.6 on the 14b but I can well imagine the setup it was on.
Nowdays I stick to myself, I'm out of the DSM scene at large. In fact after I started running mid 10's I just parked the car for a while, I lost interest.
Now I'm running it again at the track along with my 2001 Camaro SS that I just got this year.
Sorry for going nostalgic on ya here, I figure a few folks might like the story though.
First off for reference back then only 2 DSM's had finally cracked into the 10's, Glazer with a 10.8 and Switzer with a 10.98.
The 14b record was a huge deal back then for a lot of folks.
When I was getting ready to run with my attempt at a 14b record breaking setup back then I was posting on the CCDSM forum, most everyone said I was full of crap and would not beat Hallmans record.
The minute I ran that 12.4 I posted my mods for everyone. Folks thought I was full of crap, in fact many folks were doubting Hallmans earlier record of 12.57 on the 14b, that record stood for a few years. Little did they know when Marc ran that Shep was there too with his car and ran very close to that same time with a slightly different setup.
My car was fully loaded, A/C, all options, 130,000 miles on an unopened motor. A set of worn out stock size Yokohama tires with lowered pressure and a front strut bar were my chassis mods, LOL!
Right about that time the late Jeff Carpenter ran a 12.27 on the 14b, but it should be known he had extensive mods, internal work and a lightened car. I talked with him after that and he felt my 12.4 was more impressive than his 12.27 considering my simple mods and he felt it was more in the spirit of the stock 14b record actually. Jeff seemed like a cool guy.
Doug Derby and Leon Reitman also ran some fast numbers later on back then with the 14b but they had heavier mods AND their mod listed seemed to change every time they told the story! Phil Beers also went on a few years later to run almost a 12 flat on the 14b after I gave him quite a bit of advice on mods, he too had a very lightened up car though.
Recently Leon has ran some sick time like an 11.6 on the 14b but I can well imagine the setup it was on.
Nowdays I stick to myself, I'm out of the DSM scene at large. In fact after I started running mid 10's I just parked the car for a while, I lost interest.
Now I'm running it again at the track along with my 2001 Camaro SS that I just got this year.
Sorry for going nostalgic on ya here, I figure a few folks might like the story though.
joemathews
09-15-2004, 04:05 PM
TMUMMY as for exhaust, the point is that you don't want a catback. You ideally want an exhaust from the turbo back that eliminates the cat or includes a high flow cat. I don't know what state you live in, so I can't speak for the emissions legality of running without a cat.
However, if you go to an exhaust shop and have them bend you a 2.5 or 3" pressbent exhaust from the turbo back, you should be able to get that done and hung on your car for less than the cost of a brand name catback. Or you can have them custom bend piping from the stock downpipe back. I had that done and hung on my car for $125. Then you can add a nice and unrestrictive downpipe later, since the 90 degree DP bend is one of the sharper bends in your exhaust.
10.5sec92awdtalon, what size exhaust do you have? I presume 3" to be running mid 10s, but everyone has a different opinion on what you need...is it custom mandrel, pressbent, or brand name?
However, if you go to an exhaust shop and have them bend you a 2.5 or 3" pressbent exhaust from the turbo back, you should be able to get that done and hung on your car for less than the cost of a brand name catback. Or you can have them custom bend piping from the stock downpipe back. I had that done and hung on my car for $125. Then you can add a nice and unrestrictive downpipe later, since the 90 degree DP bend is one of the sharper bends in your exhaust.
10.5sec92awdtalon, what size exhaust do you have? I presume 3" to be running mid 10s, but everyone has a different opinion on what you need...is it custom mandrel, pressbent, or brand name?
10.5sec92AWDTALON
09-15-2004, 04:37 PM
I have a custom 3" mandrel bent, no cat, no muffler. The exhaust is thermal wrapped the entire length. The exhaust mani is a 2g that has been extensivley hand ported the entire length of the runners and the O2 housing is custom made also.
TMUMMY
09-15-2004, 08:51 PM
Well, I live in Portsmouth, Virgina. How much horespower can my stock engine handle, before I have to do internal work?
By the way I am trying to have a good fast daily driven car, I mean it is already fast, But I want a little more, and keep it daily driven.
And once again thinks for all of the replys
By the way I am trying to have a good fast daily driven car, I mean it is already fast, But I want a little more, and keep it daily driven.
And once again thinks for all of the replys
JoeWagon
09-15-2004, 09:07 PM
In theory a stock 6 bolt can handle 450whp or so. Some people are able to exceed that, and a lot of people I know take bets on if their headgasket will hold 400hp. Internal work is much later, but a better head gasket and head bolts may be before that.
For your car, like I said, if you only want a little more power, you already have enough turbo for that. Follow a mod list as proven by fast 1g guys, like 10.5sec92. If you follow what he says, you can easily put down low 13/high 12 second times for around $1000.
For just a taste of your potential, I would recommend hacking your MAF and turning up the boost a little. Make sure you have a working aftermarket boost gauge, and get a datalogger before you get crazy and turn it too high.
For your car, like I said, if you only want a little more power, you already have enough turbo for that. Follow a mod list as proven by fast 1g guys, like 10.5sec92. If you follow what he says, you can easily put down low 13/high 12 second times for around $1000.
For just a taste of your potential, I would recommend hacking your MAF and turning up the boost a little. Make sure you have a working aftermarket boost gauge, and get a datalogger before you get crazy and turn it too high.
joemathews
09-15-2004, 10:12 PM
For just a taste of your potential, I would recommend hacking your MAF and turning up the boost a little. Make sure you have a working aftermarket boost gauge, and get a datalogger before you get crazy and turn it too high.
It is at times like this when I wish I had a 1g with a 14b :(.
It is at times like this when I wish I had a 1g with a 14b :(.
gthompson97
09-15-2004, 10:46 PM
if i'm not mistaken.....the rs was a non-turbo car so wouldn't it be the 1g 4g63 non-turbo engine in that car?? in that case you probably will need to build.
JoeWagon
09-16-2004, 12:27 AM
He said the car was the turbo RS, please read...
TMUMMY
09-16-2004, 03:02 PM
Okay, what is a MAF, and I am going to get a muffler shop to build me a whole custom exhaust that is better then the stock, So could one of you guys tell me what all I need, and what is the best thing to get them to do. Thanks any reply is vary helpful
JoeWagon
09-16-2004, 03:16 PM
MAF/MAS is almost the same thing. It's the sensor that reads how much air is entering your car, and it's right next to the filter. Mass airflow sensor
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/
For exhaust, you want to get a full system from the o2 sensor back, but only the best exhaust shops wont mess it up. I would get a downpipe from a site like roadraceengineering.com, then have the exhaust shop make you a 2.5'' catback. 3'' if you want room to grow.
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/
For exhaust, you want to get a full system from the o2 sensor back, but only the best exhaust shops wont mess it up. I would get a downpipe from a site like roadraceengineering.com, then have the exhaust shop make you a 2.5'' catback. 3'' if you want room to grow.
TMUMMY
09-16-2004, 04:01 PM
Alright I heard that a 2.5 exhaust can only handle a certain amount of horsepower is that true, and if so how much????
10.5sec92AWDTALON
09-16-2004, 05:11 PM
A full 2.5 O2 back can easily support 400 hP, mandrel bent even more.
Hell, I ran a 13.1 on a totally STOCK exhaust system on my 92 Talon years back, that's close to 300 HP. I wouldn't reccomend that, but fact is you can push a lot of exhaust out of small pipe.
Hell, I ran a 13.1 on a totally STOCK exhaust system on my 92 Talon years back, that's close to 300 HP. I wouldn't reccomend that, but fact is you can push a lot of exhaust out of small pipe.
TMUMMY
09-16-2004, 05:30 PM
Okay, well you all have been a big help, I know I will have more questions later, but until then talk to ya later. :smile: :smile:
P.S I will talk to you all when I get my exhaust system, bye and thinks for everything :smile:
P.S I will talk to you all when I get my exhaust system, bye and thinks for everything :smile:
TMUMMY
09-21-2004, 04:24 PM
Okay well I am back. Well What is a eliminator downpipe and should I get this or no????
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