Has anyone here replaced a Lower Ball Joint on a Bravada?

Hey Gang,

I have a 2000 Bavada (with 67000 mls). I brought it into the shop, this morning, to get the front end alligned, but I was told that they weren't going to do it unless they replace both Lower Ball Joints... I guess they were shot and that's what's causing the play in the steering.

After I asked for an estimate (Parts & Labor), they said that it'll cost about $700... including the allignment.

Yeah, right!!! I went to a Chevy dealer Parts Store and purchased an original GM manufactured joints for $92.00 (each) and stopped at AutoZone and picked up a picklefork ball joint remover for $9.49. I already have the other tools (from having previously replaced my Hub & Bearing assembly). So far it's cost me well under $300.

Now, the Haynes Repare Manual instructs that I :

1) - disconnect the Inner Tie Rod end,
2) - remove the Driveaxel
3) - drill-out the rivets (if they're still there)
4) - remove the ball joint stud cotter pin
5) - support the lower arm with a floor jack
6) - loosen the ball joint nut a couple of turns (not all the way, yet)
7) - back-off the Torsion Bar adjustment arm bolt
8) - separate the knuckle from the ball joint (using a picklefork)
9) - now, remove the nut and remove the ball joint
10)- put in the new one and reverse the previous process.

Does this sond right?

More importantly, does this sound like something I should pay $700 for?

Thanks

KidAce, Please keep us posted of your progress. I ave never done this before, but it would be a learning expereince for us all. Hopefully, you don't mind sharing the knowledge.

I would tap/rap around the knuckle with a hammer before trying to remove it. I didn't have a picklefork but I used a socket, nut and bolt to press the ball joint out. The lower ball joint is harder than the upper.

FOLLOW-UP

OK, both lower ball joints are replace, tires aligned and life is good :-)

I pretty much followed the Haynes Manual, but I made a little adjustment.

1) - Loosen and remove the Axledrive nut. (removing it now will make it that much easier to remove the Hub_&_Bearing assembly, later).
2) - Raise and remove the tire.
3) - Remove the break calliper, rotor and the Hub_&_Bearing assemby.
4) - Remove the shock absorber.
5) - Disconect and remove the outter tie-rod.
6) - Loosen the ball joint nult, but don't remove it completely, yet.
7) - Back-off the Torsion Bar pressure. Before doing so, either mark the current setting of the bolt or count the number of threads that are exposed because you'll need to re-tighten it to the same position.
8) - Jack up the lower arm.
9) - Using a pickle fork, seperate the ball joint from the knuckle.
10) - If the incumbent ball joint is still the factory one, you have to drill out the rivets and pound it out.
11) - Once all 4 rivets are out, raise the arm as high as it will go and pop-out the incumbent ball joint.
12) - Put the new one on, but don't fasten the ball joint stem yet.
13) - Secure the 4 bolts REALLY REALLY tight.
14) - Lower the Arm all the way.
15) - Now you can fasten the ball joint stem. Be sure to fasten it REALLY REALLY tight also.
16) - Re-tighten the Torsion bar to the previous setting.
17) - Grease-up the new ball joint, heavily.

From here, you can just reverse the procedure and don't forget to get it aligned.

Good Luck. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to email me.
Ace