Passenger side power window motor replacement? Help!!!
Cogtx
08-28-2004, 04:47 PM
Hello all...I have enjoyed reading all the posts about the windstar and each one has really helped me with keeping my '98 Windstar on the road. Recently, the power mirrors have been getting stuck and the passenger side window does not move at all. Was able to clean the connectors on the switches for the mirrors and checked voltage. Mirrors working fine after cleaning the switches but the passanger side window is a no go. Looks like the motor is burned out. MY PROBLEM: How do you remove the motor..? Looked in the Haynes manual but no info on motor removal, just about window regulator and drilling out rivets....please assist if you have a clue....I'm all out of those now.. :eek7: ..thanx
ws98
08-29-2004, 08:56 PM
My 98 Windstar passenger window wouldn't respond. After checking my switches, determined it was the motor. Instructions that came with the new motor were vague. After spending several hours trying to look around inside the door with flashlite and mirror, I figured the only way to remove the old motor was to drill out the 3 rivets surrounding the motor gear axis. (Be sure to support the window so it doesn't drop. I cut a 2x4 to fit vertical between the X regulator horizontal bars.) The new motor I bought (from Kragen) was made by Siemens, about $70, but less than half the price the Ford dealer wanted.
The new motor has 3 holes tapped for a metric size thread bolt. It comes with spacer washers that need to be used to line up the gear with the regulator's toothed cresent. Ream out the holes in the inner door panel large enough to insert a socket to tighten the bolts.
There is a C clip that held the bottom of the old motor, but the new motor doesn't line-up to fit in that clip. I had to drill out that rivet too to remove the clip; and used a heavy duty tie-wrap and a small block of wood as a shim to secure the bottom of the motor to the inner door panel. This is needed because there is a LOT of torque! As the window hits the fully closed position I could see that the motor was twisting out of position without something to secure the lower end of the motor.
The other brand of motor offered by Kragen (Dolph brand? don't remember exactly) might fit better, and it was cheaper. But I figured that since the original motor failed, I wanted something of good quality that would not fail again, and that I would get more for my money.
Another incompatibility was the electrical plug did not mate with the door harness receptacle. I cut off both and crimped the wires directly; red to red and yellow to yellow which made perfect sense, but it turned out to be backward! So it took another cut and crimp, red-yellow and yellow-red. You don't always get what you pay for!
This work was done in summer '04.
After tinkering with the old motor, I believe that the failure was caused not by classical motor winding burnout, but by the electrical sensor that stops the motor when the window won't move any further.
The new motor has 3 holes tapped for a metric size thread bolt. It comes with spacer washers that need to be used to line up the gear with the regulator's toothed cresent. Ream out the holes in the inner door panel large enough to insert a socket to tighten the bolts.
There is a C clip that held the bottom of the old motor, but the new motor doesn't line-up to fit in that clip. I had to drill out that rivet too to remove the clip; and used a heavy duty tie-wrap and a small block of wood as a shim to secure the bottom of the motor to the inner door panel. This is needed because there is a LOT of torque! As the window hits the fully closed position I could see that the motor was twisting out of position without something to secure the lower end of the motor.
The other brand of motor offered by Kragen (Dolph brand? don't remember exactly) might fit better, and it was cheaper. But I figured that since the original motor failed, I wanted something of good quality that would not fail again, and that I would get more for my money.
Another incompatibility was the electrical plug did not mate with the door harness receptacle. I cut off both and crimped the wires directly; red to red and yellow to yellow which made perfect sense, but it turned out to be backward! So it took another cut and crimp, red-yellow and yellow-red. You don't always get what you pay for!
This work was done in summer '04.
After tinkering with the old motor, I believe that the failure was caused not by classical motor winding burnout, but by the electrical sensor that stops the motor when the window won't move any further.
Cogtx
08-30-2004, 07:32 PM
Ws98...thanx for the reply. I pick up the new motor tomorrow and may attempt the replacement then. Appreciate the details of your response. Hope the install goes smoothly...tired of messing with this van...will keep you posted on my progress...
Cogtx
09-01-2004, 09:25 PM
Decided to take a hammer to the motor and tap lightly while holding the down button...like magic the motor worked!!! go figure...guess it needed a little gently persuasion...guess I'll cancel that motor order (for now)...thanx for the input Ws98
stevew3217
10-27-2004, 12:46 PM
WS98:
I had exactly the same experience with a recent window motor replacement in my 95 windstar.passenger side, including the clip not fitting the new motor and having to reverse the wires. I had previously replaced the driver's side motor, but the new motor was a Ford so there were no installation problems and no problems since. I am writing because the passenger side motor is now working intermittantly. A couple of weeks ago, I took the door apart again and tapped on the motor; it began to work and did so for a week or so. I am at a loss. I also used a nylon cable to hold the bottom of the motor in place; however, I did not think to use a wooden block to further wedge it in place. I will probably try this next. Do you have any other ideas? Thanks
I had exactly the same experience with a recent window motor replacement in my 95 windstar.passenger side, including the clip not fitting the new motor and having to reverse the wires. I had previously replaced the driver's side motor, but the new motor was a Ford so there were no installation problems and no problems since. I am writing because the passenger side motor is now working intermittantly. A couple of weeks ago, I took the door apart again and tapped on the motor; it began to work and did so for a week or so. I am at a loss. I also used a nylon cable to hold the bottom of the motor in place; however, I did not think to use a wooden block to further wedge it in place. I will probably try this next. Do you have any other ideas? Thanks
kenneth330
11-22-2004, 08:17 PM
How do you open the Right side door panel to access the motor?
Ken
Ken
stevew3217
11-23-2004, 07:23 AM
How do you open the Right side door panel to access the motor?
Ken
The motor is actually quite accessible once you figure out the door components. The Haynes manual is pretty good on this. Basically, you pry three pieces loose with a screwdriver or putty knife--the padded section at the top of the door, the part with the switches, and a small triangular piece at the inside corner of the window. Then, there are 2 screws (possibly more on some models)--one at the bottom of the door and one near the door handle--remove them. The main section of the door liner then lifts straight up--be careful with the plastic pieces that lock it in place. You can then slide the section with the switches through an opening and set this big piece aside. There is a plastic vapor barrier covering the door--ease this off. To access the actual motor, you have to drill three holes in the indentations in the sheet metal. You will then see three bolts which hold the motor in place. You also have a spring clip at the bottom of the motor and the electrical plug. This sounds complicated, but I can now do it in about 5 minutes. If only I could get a motor to work all the time! The best price on motors by far that I have found is a place called South Florida Windows Lifts--they advertise on ebay. Good luck and let me know if you have further questions. Steve
Ken
The motor is actually quite accessible once you figure out the door components. The Haynes manual is pretty good on this. Basically, you pry three pieces loose with a screwdriver or putty knife--the padded section at the top of the door, the part with the switches, and a small triangular piece at the inside corner of the window. Then, there are 2 screws (possibly more on some models)--one at the bottom of the door and one near the door handle--remove them. The main section of the door liner then lifts straight up--be careful with the plastic pieces that lock it in place. You can then slide the section with the switches through an opening and set this big piece aside. There is a plastic vapor barrier covering the door--ease this off. To access the actual motor, you have to drill three holes in the indentations in the sheet metal. You will then see three bolts which hold the motor in place. You also have a spring clip at the bottom of the motor and the electrical plug. This sounds complicated, but I can now do it in about 5 minutes. If only I could get a motor to work all the time! The best price on motors by far that I have found is a place called South Florida Windows Lifts--they advertise on ebay. Good luck and let me know if you have further questions. Steve
PeePThisMoFug
02-11-2005, 08:07 PM
would that be the same replacement procedure on a '99 windstar? also if anyone has any websites with pictures on the removal/replacement of the mirror motor or maybe an exploded diagram of the door and where exactly to find the motor please post..
thanks
thanks
netherland24
02-17-2005, 10:55 PM
I was wondering ws98 what website did you go to find the power window motor, i have a 96 and the stupid thing is rotten, i hit it with a hammer and i got a no go i know power is going to it cause when i hit the switch it flickers. thanks.
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