Nitrous set-up on an LT1...

Anyone have good recomendations on a nitrous set-up. I know I dont want a dry kit for sure. So what are some of the better kits out there? I know NX and TNT both make a direct port system. Any feedback on either of these kits or maybe another wet kit out there that has a good reputation....

I used an NX kit on my car with the Shark Nozzle. It is a lot cheaper than Direct Port and works fine. You do not need Direct port for small shots. I picked up 96 RWHP and 162 RWFt/Lbs on a 100 shot with this setup. (I never dynod with a bigger shot than that Except once with a 200, but it was only to 4000 RPMs before I realized I needed to make some changes before trying it again..LOL...758 ft/lbs at the wheels at 3100rpm btw)

what kinda build would you do for an engine if you plan on runing nitrous? forged pistons ? special rings? 4 bolt? forged crank? special head gaskets?

Depends on how much nitrous and goal hp you plan on.

umm lets just say 200shot

um, Nitrous + LT1 + stock opticrap = BOOM


if you are going to run nitrous on an LT1, upgrade the opti to a reliable aftermarket unit. the stock unit tends to die in performance applications, and if you are running nitrous and it goes out, youll grenaide your engine, ive seen cylender heads blown off that way. just my two cents.

well my engines built for nitrous i kinda want to get it mainly for show and to use when im fuckin around but ive heard too many horror stories so im tending to stay away from it

well nitrous in and of its self is perfectly safe, i just dont trust it with optispark. because when opti goes bad, it sends spark to all the cylenders at once, so you get misfires in a bad way, and if your running nitrous, especialy a 200 shot, that leads to broken parts.

never seen probs from an opti and n2o. if you lose spark while spraying you are okay, if you lose fuel you are screwed!

Yea i want to run a 125 shot or so and i have quite a few upgrades already but one of the last upgrades before the nitrous set-up will be my ignition...i'll look into the opti thing a lil bit more. But I want to get the most out of a 125-150 shot that i can...I have heard alot of peeps using the TNT throttle plate system for lt1...any reveiws or recomendations for something else....plus I do plan on gettin all the safety supplies on top of my basic kit...

It is smart thing to do to get an aftermarket Ignition box, but no need to replace the opti unless it actually goes out. The so called Opti replacements (that still use the stock opti) are still very expensive and still use the factory opti in one way or another. The only reason an aftermarket box is good is because it delivers a stronger spark to the plugs. If the spark is too weak or the gap is too large the spark can be 'blown out' by the N2O and well Atomized air.

I would recommend the Mallory 685 for an ignition box. It has a great number of features that are good for N2O users in the one digital box:
window switch to turn the N2O on and Off (used in cunjunction with a WOT switch makes for a VERY safe setup)
Spark retard (set it up to pull the desired amount of spark when the system is armed)
2 rev limiters (that cut spark instead of fuel to avoid serious damage)

those are just a few of the features on the 685.
NGK TR6 have proven to be an awesome Nitrous spark plug for shots of 100 and bigger. I used them for the 100, 150, and the one time on the 200 with no problems ever.

http://www.rksport.com/product/p_01096004/view_detail
is this the box your talking about? would it work good on my 95' if i got new sparkplugs?

I think this is the one you are talking about coorect: http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?product_id=MAL-685

badazz240 posted the right one

lol i started to notice i was off when he posted it...

If I go with the TNT wet kit the thottle plate system can they port the throttle plate to match my 52 mm throttle body?

deadcarney, the problem with opti and N2O isnt the loss of spark, its too much of it. what happens to the optispark is that at high rpms or load, the drive bearing heats up, and starts to melt the plastic housing, this causes the housing to warp, the internals of the distributor ground out and send spark to all 8 cylenders at once, thats why you get the boom.

No, that will not cause a prob with the N2O. if that were to happen and cause a reaction with the Nitrous, it would just be due to the fact that the engine is working much quicker and the Opti going could cause preignition, which is Dangerous with N2O. That is a risk anybody takes with Nitrous, even with a conventional shaft mounted Distributor. It really has nothing to do with the Opti. there are thousands of LT1's running around with much larger shots than a 150 and they are running an optispark with no probs.

hey deadcarny is your car the one for sale on car domain. That thing is nice dude. If got any extra parts you think I could need then let me know i might buy them off you....

The car is gone now. I deliovered it to a guy in NYC a couple weekends ago. I have a BUNCH of extra stock parts for sale. I have a LT1 shortblock still available (unassembled), an LT1 intake, and a few other things.If you need anything let me know. I still have a ton of mods, but I am saving them for the next car in a couple years.

I am looking into stroking my engine to a 383, just outa curiosity, what did your car run? If there is anything you think I might need to help me lemme know....Thanks Hey is that 485+hp off the bottle or on? What condition is the block in?

car was a 10 second car. car put 411 HP to the wheels, which comes to 483.5 at the crank with a 15% driveline loss. I am sure the DL loss was more than 15% with the setup that was on it, but stuck with the 485 so I did not 'overstep' my bounds. Since I had all the info (head flow charts, piston info, CR info, and cam specs) Desktop Dyno had me RIGHT ON the numbers and said the engine made 497hp at peak. That was without the Nitrous. I never sprayed the 383 on the dyno except the one time when I attempted the 200 shot, which did not go very far....LOL.

The LT1 block I have is standard bore and seems to be in fine shape. It was rebuilt about 5k miles ago and whoever did it did not torque the heads correctly and so it blew a head gasket. I do not see any problems with it other than a head bolt that needs extracted. the block and intake would be a great base for your 383 build up!

How much?

sent you PM