Two Tone Painting help

I've went through the FAQ, did a few searches but I'm stuck with a few unanswered questions.

First off I'll explain what I'm doing. I'm painting a model light gunmetal with silver racing stripes. Both colors are metallic, and from what I've read, it dosen't matter which of these I spray first because the silver can easily cover up the gunmetal even though it's the lighter color, but a suggestion would be helpful.

- Once I mask the model, it's advised to used a coat of clear coat to seal off the edges of the tape. Using Tamiya clear, how long should I wait for the clear to dry before adding color?

- If I were to paint the silver (strips color) first then mask off for light gunmetal (body color), should I clear coat the silver before masking off for the gunmetal, or only clear coat to seal the edges of the tape?

Any help or suggestions would be great.

To be honest I wouldn't clear coat to seal the tape as it will create a ridge in the paint. If you use Tamiya masking tape and make sure you 'burnish' down the edges properly then the paint shouldn't bleed under it. I would suggest you practice the technique on an old kit first if your not sure. Good luck. :smile:

Well, I kinda agree with verminator on that. As long as you're not painting over too many sharp edges or body lines, you don't really need to put a coat of clear on there to seal it. It does in fact create a ridge that will only get higer once you put the color over it, and who knows what might happen when you get to sanding. I would try putting the silver down first, masking your stripes and then shooting the main color. Just be sure to burnish the tape down well, to minimize the chance of seepage.
Also, after masking, lay down several thinner coats instead of a couple heavy ones, because the paint wil build up less along the tape line, making less of a ridge.
And once you're done with the color coats, remove the tape while the paint is still tacky (not wet!!) to get a nice clean separation line. Follow up with several coats of clear to cover it all, and to help hide the ridge a bit.

I'm not a pro, so if anyone wants to correct me, go right ahead. I just did my Silveradoin black over white, and what I wrote is a result of what I learned. Good luck and post pics!

P.S. Verminator, your avatar looks like Homer shat on the couch. Pretty gross...

Verminator is right.

Also, use light coat, and wait few days before taping the undercoat paint

For part of the car where tape can't go, you can get liquid Mask. I use humbrol one and it's fine. I used it and tamiya paint for my Peugeot 206 WRC 2003 (look under rally section on my web gallery)

Thanks for the advice!
Follow up with several coats of clear to cover it all, and to help hide the ridge a bit.
Should the paint be fully cured when I apply the clear coat? Or do you mean after I remove the masking tape?

Darn, I read something about this the other day but I can't find it any more... You have to apply the clear soon after the color coats (within a day, if I remember correctly), or wait till the paint has fully cured (as in more than 2-3 weeks). Otherwise, you could encounter problems such as cracking caused by the differential in cure rates between the color and clear coats.

If you're using Tamiya sprays, be careful and follow the steps properly, so that the clear doesn't crack. Tamiya clear needs to be sprayed immediately (less than one hour) after the color, or you'll be waiting a month for it to dry before applying clear. It's because of the different drying rates of their clear vs. their colors.

Complicates things, but it's easy to get around. Spray your basecoat. If it went on smooth, go ahead and apply a couple light/fast coats of clear. You don't have to make it glass-smooth, just cover the basecoat. Then you can mask the stripes. If you can airbrush a thin coat of clear to seal the edges, it's a good idea, even Tamiya tape can bleed tiny amounts of color, and it only takes a tiny amount to ruin the mask. Otherwise a light coat of clear, followed by the silver, followed by a light coat of the clear (to seal the silver)-all in one session. Remove the masking tape after the paint has begun to set, but don't wait until it's dry, around 30 mins. to an hour should do. Then you can dress the painted edges carefully w/very fine sandpaper or sanding cloths, and perhaps do some careful sanding of the clear that's on there, and then reapply more clear anytime. Once the color is sealed in clear, there's no more time restrictions other than letting it dry properly before handling.

Thanks for the advice!

Bob, the only clear coat paints I have in a bottle are "Model Masters Gloss Clear Laquer Finish" and "Boyd Hi-Gloss Clear." I think these might yellow over time. Would you recommend that I paint the strip color first as Fastphil mentioned?

Also, you mention at the top of your post that if I apply Tamiya clear after an hour of the painting, it'll increase the drying time to a month or so. So when I apply the clear at the very ending of the process, I'll have to wait a month before polishing?

Anyone know where I can get good masking tape that is either 1mm or 1/16" wide? Or a technique to cut wider masking tape?

As far as using the clear first and then applying the second coat: YES! It will create a sharp, clean line. You only want to apply a light coat along the masking line. You can then start applying your second color coat almost immediately, about one minutes, not more than five, the clear does not need to be dry yet (with Tamiyas cans). My Renault was painted that way. The ridge you're creating is minimal and should be gone with light polishing. I wouldn't do it without the clear anymore.

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