Turbocharging
Entity_101
06-13-2004, 04:39 AM
When you want to turbocharge or supercharge your car what areas of your engine need to be addressed? Its just that been given (by parents as first car) a Mitsubishi Scorpion in manual with the 2.6 litre engine and I would like to boost its performance. For a car thats basically a cosmetic change on the sigma its got considerble get up and go but is still not the best. The main problem is that it lacks power in the mid range rpm's.
Igovert500
07-07-2004, 12:33 AM
Find a kit for your car and go from there, most are more or less set to run on stock cars, but when/if you start uping the boost alot, you will have to deal with the compression of the pistons, spark blowout, fuel cut, and a few other fun things to remedy. I don't know anything about Scorpians, but finding a kit for your car is the first step.
Auto_newb
07-07-2004, 03:28 AM
Shouldn't this be in the forced induction sub-forum?
Igovert500
07-07-2004, 10:39 AM
probably
TuRbO_$kY|iN£
07-31-2004, 03:11 PM
i know this has nouthing to do with your question but i need help. can someone please tell me the difference between a wastegate and a dump valve? ive been told before i just keep forgetting. thankyouplease
scottsee
09-04-2004, 11:28 PM
wow, an mitsu scorpion. damn.. i havent seen those in years!! yeah, you can turbo those. lol.
lets see. whats your compression ratio on that moater? if its more then 10.5 you really cant boost more then 7psi, 10 no more then 9. you need to get a small 52lb/hour pump, walbro 190 pumps cool. you wont need the high flow. their about 90 smackers. you'll also need some larger injectors, like 440's, if you can find some from turbo eclipse's at the junk yard you'll be set. other then that, coose a smaller turbo with a small AR housing so you can spool faster becasue the lb/min wont make a shit if you dont have the comppersion or block to handle the boost. a good cheap turbo would be the t3 50-60 trim with .46 or some shit, its small with like a 20-30lb/min sweet spot @ 1.3 / 1.7 bar. their cheap, $300-400. i think they even come with an internal wastegate. you'll need a sidemount intercooler from a volvo, saab, buick, supra (87-94 my fav) or eclipse. that will be fine for what cfm's you bee pushing, anything to big will casue way to much pressure drop. you'll need a manual boost controler, i got mine for $20 off ebay, buy joep and hallman have great kits for $40-60. you'll need a boost gauge, Bov, you can get away with using a 2g eclipse bov becasue you wont be boosting higher then 12psi (leak'e after that) or if your a ricer, and want the sound, there are alllllll kinds of bov's out there. my personal fav is the 1g eclipse bov, its a great bov, you can find them for 20-40 used, perfect condition. from there you'll need a fuel controler to adjust your timing, air/fuel mixture. you should spend 200 and get a pocket logger to do it right so you can see what your rpms, tps, timing, o2 volts exc are so you can get it all dialed in. shit man, have fun
lets see. whats your compression ratio on that moater? if its more then 10.5 you really cant boost more then 7psi, 10 no more then 9. you need to get a small 52lb/hour pump, walbro 190 pumps cool. you wont need the high flow. their about 90 smackers. you'll also need some larger injectors, like 440's, if you can find some from turbo eclipse's at the junk yard you'll be set. other then that, coose a smaller turbo with a small AR housing so you can spool faster becasue the lb/min wont make a shit if you dont have the comppersion or block to handle the boost. a good cheap turbo would be the t3 50-60 trim with .46 or some shit, its small with like a 20-30lb/min sweet spot @ 1.3 / 1.7 bar. their cheap, $300-400. i think they even come with an internal wastegate. you'll need a sidemount intercooler from a volvo, saab, buick, supra (87-94 my fav) or eclipse. that will be fine for what cfm's you bee pushing, anything to big will casue way to much pressure drop. you'll need a manual boost controler, i got mine for $20 off ebay, buy joep and hallman have great kits for $40-60. you'll need a boost gauge, Bov, you can get away with using a 2g eclipse bov becasue you wont be boosting higher then 12psi (leak'e after that) or if your a ricer, and want the sound, there are alllllll kinds of bov's out there. my personal fav is the 1g eclipse bov, its a great bov, you can find them for 20-40 used, perfect condition. from there you'll need a fuel controler to adjust your timing, air/fuel mixture. you should spend 200 and get a pocket logger to do it right so you can see what your rpms, tps, timing, o2 volts exc are so you can get it all dialed in. shit man, have fun
scottsee
09-04-2004, 11:34 PM
wategate contolls the amount of exhaust going into the exhaust wheel to spin the compressur wheel (what boost controllers controle). a dump valve (blow off valve, BOV for short) controlls the amount of pressure in the intercooler pipes.
scottsee
09-04-2004, 11:34 PM
wow, thats some fucked up spelling. Right on. i need another vodka and oj. peace
Entity_101
09-05-2004, 04:33 AM
wow, it must have been along time since that post i made, the motor died in the old girl, so i had to get rid of her, it was gonna be too much money to be paid to get her runnign again, but anyway i have pickde up a classic to restore, well it is classic, but not the most recognized collectable car, its a 1966 datsun bluebird with the webber carb and 4 on the floor. just gotton it.
scottsee
09-05-2004, 11:46 AM
fuck. all that for nothing. aint that some shit
tricksaturnsc2
11-22-2004, 10:01 PM
Like they say, but a kit, then you take a lot less chances. 93 octane gas, retard the timing, put colder plugs in & close the gap.
Make sure the engine is in excellent condition, not burning oil or anything.
Me i would never turbo a car w/o building the bottom end, but that's just me.
Make sure the engine is in excellent condition, not burning oil or anything.
Me i would never turbo a car w/o building the bottom end, but that's just me.
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