Getting Rid of the Sludge

I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on how to get rid of the sludge. Specifically, how do I get all the sludge out before I switch to synthetic oil? It sounds like there is a screen in the oil pan that gets clogged and drops the oil pressure. I figure this needs to be cleaned for sure. I just do not know if we need to have it inspected and manually cleaned or if you can just clean it with chemicals. Anyone know a good additive that could help solve this problem? Please tell! :)

Here comes that Mobil advertisement again, just wait...

Does the Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil really work or is it just some cheap advertising trick that someone is pulling. I sure as hell hope it works. I just changed my oil last night and added Mobil 1 synthetic hoping for some good news. We'll See.

That xs29l dude knows all about this stuff. Perhaps he will see your post.

i would just change your oil and filter every 1000 miles for awile before instaling any syntetic oil synthetic oil can help

Hi,

98 durango here, just got it and Im worried about the sludge as well, is there anyway to clean that out? maybe like rcs426 said change the oil every 1000 miles that way it will flush the system??? I dont know,,, any body help!

Damian

2 quarts of kerosene. 3 quarts of oil (just not quaker state). run engine until warm (Don't drive the truck)

disclamer::nono:
Kerosene is flammable. If you are reluctant to do this, then just go buy 2 cans of "Rislone engine restorer" and use both cans (ok, well it is kerosene....But anyway...). If you drive the truck, and there are oil leaks, you could burn the truck up, so don't drive it until the kerosene is drained.

This really works, where other crap and additives don't.

Change oil again. Use synthetic oil if you want; It'll help, but not as much as most people would like you to think.

Change the oil every 1000 miles or each month until it runs clear for 1000 miles, then go back to 3000 mile maintanence schedule.

And your D will live happily ever after.

Slantsixness

This sounds like a good idea, have you used it, so how many times do I have to use it? is it like an oil change and then just let it seat and then drain it out and put the oil back in, previous owners have always used regular oil on it, and thinking on going syntetic after I clean it. I just want to make sure it is clean before I change to syntetic. So do I do this ryslane thing every couple of months or is this a one time deal. Thanks a lot for the input.

Damian

Hi,

I was talking to on of my coworkers and he mention something that called my attention abot this idea, since this have never been done on this engine (that I know) wouldnt the build up around the valves and the pistons that have been living there for a while make the engine adjust to it, and if it is adjusted to that clugging there and I clean it up wont they be all loose and start making noises and maybe even damage something,,, Im just curious, because my engine is now 92K miles old.... Thanks for the information and the help that you have provided me so far,

I called the local auto part Napa and the sell the Rislone, they have the Flush kit, and they have the one that its like a Quart of oil that you are supposed to put in with your oil changes in replacement of one of the oil quarts.. should I use the flush kit once and then do a oilchange with a quart of the rislone, and repeat the process every month untill it runs clear? Thanks again and sorry for the long questions, Im new to all this.

Damian


2 quarts of kerosene. 3 quarts of oil (just not quaker state). run engine until warm (Don't drive the truck)

disclamer::nono:
Kerosene is flammable. If you are reluctant to do this, then just go buy 2 cans of "Rislone engine restorer" and use both cans (ok, well it is kerosene....But anyway...). If you drive the truck, and there are oil leaks, you could burn the truck up, so don't drive it until the kerosene is drained.

This really works, where other crap and additives don't.

Change oil again. Use synthetic oil if you want; It'll help, but not as much as most people would like you to think.

Change the oil every 1000 miles or each month until it runs clear for 1000 miles, then go back to 3000 mile maintanence schedule.

And your D will live happily ever after.

Slantsixness

You can use the flush kit, but you only have to use it once. Then change the oil every 1K miles and use the rislone "quart" thing, but you don't add it as oil, you add it before the oil change and run the engine, then drain the motor oil and the flush.

After the oil stays clean (golden clear) for 1K miles, your engine will be clean enough to go back to the 3K oil changes, and no more rislone. Overuse of any oil treatments or flushes can cause troubles too. I wouldn't do it more than 4 times before I just used regular oil.

I hope this isn't to confusing to follow :)
But I'll expand on it if you need....

When would be a good time to strar? I think mine is aroud 68,000. Its do for a oil change. I myself have thought about the syn oils. Are they worth it? I know the cable co I used to work for Syn is all they use. They change the oil every 6,000.
I want this motor to last till the body falls off. So if this is a good thing I might try it out. I do have a extened warrenty on the motor and tranny. I dont want to put that in jepordy..

Ok, let me see if I got this,

1st - leave the current oil in, and dump the rislone Flush inside the oil compartment, run it for a few minutes in iddle.

2nd - drain all the old oil + flush liquid currently inside the engine out

3rd - put a new oil filter, and insert 4 quarts of new clean oil and one quart ofthe rislone engine treatment oil.

4th - use the vehicle normally for a month and repeat this whole process again every 30 days for a few months or untill the oil comming out is golden clear.

did I got it all right?

I read on the net a guy that after draining the oil out he removed the oil pan and checked the screen in front of the oil pan looking for sludge accumulation, and he instead found lots of carbon deposits on the screen. He said he used lots part cleaner and a wire brush and he cleaned the screen, then replaced the pan and kept flushing it till it was clean. What do you think.

Thanks again!

Damian

You can use the flush kit, but you only have to use it once. Then change the oil every 1K miles and use the rislone "quart" thing, but you don't add it as oil, you add it before the oil change and run the engine, then drain the motor oil and the flush.

After the oil stays clean (golden clear) for 1K miles, your engine will be clean enough to go back to the 3K oil changes, and no more rislone. Overuse of any oil treatments or flushes can cause troubles too. I wouldn't do it more than 4 times before I just used regular oil.

I hope this isn't to confusing to follow :)
But I'll expand on it if you need....

Cleaning the sump and changing the pan gasket would help, but you do have the procedure correct.
I wouldn't worry too much about the sump, unless there's obvious sludge in the pan.

I got a chiltons manuals and according to the instructions of removing the oil pan I have to emove the front axles,,, that is totally uncool, seens like a lot of trouble, Im going to do the flushes and use the rislone for a couple of months and see how the oil comes out, if it doesnt get any better I might have to do it..... I just didnt got one part, is it cool to run the whole month with a quart of rislone oil on the engine? or is it meant to be removed right away... Hey thanks a lot for the help, Im doing the flush today..

Ill let you know how did it go.

Damian


Cleaning the sump and changing the pan gasket would help, but you do have the procedure correct.
I wouldn't worry too much about the sump, unless there's obvious sludge in the pan.

use the engine flush: you just run it for a little bit (warm) and then discard it(drain it). It's not the "treatment", which stays in, but It probably wouldn't hurt to use that too.

I did the flush and put the engine treatment on too, I'll give it 30 days and do it again,, next time Im using the oil that is mixed, half oil/syntetic and the 3rd time I will go straight syntetic... Im hoping it will help... Thanks again man!

I wish you a long and happy sludge free lifetime with your durango...:)

Lol!

Thanks, I was driving my D yesterday to get the lower ball joints and the inner tie rods replaced and the engne light came on, I freaked out fror a sec and stopped right away,,, I checkd the oil pressure but it looked fine, the engine light was steady so I assume it was ok to drive it and kept going to the shop, I asked the shop to look at it. They called me back and they said it was a firing problem and that new spark plug wires and a motor vac treatment would fix it. I never heard of this motor vac but it is supposed to clean all the interior of the engine from top to botttom, they also found that I needed a new intake manifold gasket. I ask them to remove the head and call me, I went to see it and it had all kinds of nasty carbon buildups on it, they said they would clean it up and do the motor vac to clean the rest of the engine, Im hoping this would help on the race towards a cleaner engine.

Has anyone heard or had this motor vac treatment before,, is it any good.

Damian

Or you could go the amsoil route, they sell a flush product. Then fill with there oil and change as you normally would, they claim you could go 25,000 before oil changes, just change the filter at 12,500. I use amsoil,and change about every 10,000 or three months. I commute about 120 miles a day. you can find Amsoil on the web at Amsoil.com

yeah right,,,lol with the fames this durangos have I wouldnt take the risk, I mean is only a 20min oil change maybe 17$ on parts versus blown engine $5500, thanks but no thanks.. :)

XS29L Dude here, My 98 was dropping oil pressure to zero at idle. There was tons of sludge in the engine when this started to happen. All I did was changed to synthetic (Mobil 1) 10W30, 5qts. Nothing else, and it has perfect pressure now. I recently changed the oil at a healthy 13,000 mile interval. Worked for me.

Hi, Sorry to keep beating this oil sludge thing, but I am pretty new to this forum and just read about this problem. My son has a 2000 Durango with the 4.7 engine that he bought new, and has about 55,000 miles on. I just bought a used 1998 with the 5.2 engine with 71,000 miles on it. Does this oil sludge problem involve all models and engines, or is it related to just certain years or engines ?

I think it's related to poor maintenance and neglect.

I just did this myself a few days ago. My oil was so bad I had NO oil pressure whatsoever. So all I did was remove the oil pan plug, let it drain for a few hours, and put the plug back in. Change the filter as well of course. Then I added 4 1/2 quarts of Royal Purple engine oil (Synthetic) and it runs great aside from a idle problem that it has always had. (Might be the TPS). I am going to change the oil again in 1,000 miles just to be safe.

You could always put in Amsoil i sold it and use it they also sell a can of engine flush as well. I change my syn oil every 5k or 3 months which ever comes first. Castrol will warranty your veh for 1000,000 km using there oil check it out.

Thats what I used. I bought an Engine Flush made to remove sludge in engines before oil change. I changed oil my oil using PetroMoly oil. You can buy the engine flush at any Napa stores. Good luck.

The best way to get rid of sludge is to never let it happen, I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 160k miles on it, only used mobil 1, still hits 6500 rpm and never chokes, runs perfect. I am currently driving a 2000 buick lesabre, my grandpa previously owned it, i took out the oil, which was conventional mobil, it was black, so that scared me, it has castrol gtx right now, im probably going to change it after 1000 miles just to make sure