Dead Astro Suddenly

Well As I usally do on a Monday I check my fluids and Go over A few things on the engine to make sure everything is the way it should be, My astro is a 1995 with 202,000 on it, After checking the fluids today i was checking electrical harness connections making sure they were tight and all. Once I was finished i headed to my astro and started it and it ran for about 2 seconds and died, just like that it was dead, I cranked and cranked and cranked and absolutely nothing, No whirring sounds so I suspected the fuel pump, I also tried putting gas in the area where the butterfly valve is and it did start the van although lots of misfiring, so i know for sure it is a fuel problem but it may be electrically related, Im wondering about the fusible link and if i may have done something to that when i was looking at the wiring today, I will check the relays and I will check the pump unfortunatly the pump is only accessed by dropping the tank on my particular model. I would appreciate any other suggestions anyone may have about fixing this problem. Figure i should look at the obvious before spending tons of money on other things. Thanks

Had same problem, Replaced pickup coil, ignition coil, and ignition modual. now It wont time, If we set it once and it seems right, we turn it off and when we turn it back on the timing is way of.

Cleared the computer and ensured tdc and it runs once then after shuting it off the timings off again. Please need help soon.
Thanks.

i had the same problem. when you turn your key on listen by the gas cap for a whirring noise . if don hear the pump kick in replace it. you must drop the fuel tank to access the pump. my 1994 did the same thing . the engine would turn but not start. i thought i had bad gas but it was the fuel pump. replaced it and it ran fine...hope this helps...

You may want to check the fuel pump relay, bolted to the back of the engine compartment on the passenger side. Also check the wire bundle behind the battery. If everything looks secure, put 12v to the spade connector coming from the relay and see if the pump runs. If not, it's likely the pump. I just replaced mine this week, same model year, 91 bucks plus 4 bucks for the screen at checker. If you do replace the pump, replace the filter also, and be careful with the fuel tank strap bolts on the drivers side especially, as they're exposed and prone to corrosion.

take the fuel pump relay off of the firewall, unplug it and jump the two larger wires with a piece of wire, try to start it, if you don't hear any whinning (whereas you should with the doors closed and the windows up) and the van dont start, you probably have a bad pump. DON'T GET ONE AT THE JUNK YARD, BAD IDEA, SPEND THE MONEY

A couple of years back my 97 Astro died suddenly...always on the freeway.
Because of the infamous Astro gas gauge problem I thought I needed some petrol.

After tracing problem back to fuel pump - non responsive - I prepared to drop tank and put in a new pump.

Just when we were about to drop tank, we noticed a wire hanging down. It was forward of the tank. Turned out to be the ground wire for the fuel pump. Someone had overtorqued ground screw in the factory, and after 4 years it finally fell off.

Got out a self tapping screw and voila...still driving without a problem. (if you don't count the gas gauge thingy!)

Shop estimate to repair - $1200 canadian.
My actual repair cost $.03 canadian - and less down time.

ps. I am open to gas gauge suggestions and/or solutions.

ck the harness on the passenger side of the engine that connects to the ecm that is routed around the hot air tube that is connected to the air cleaner. there should be a firewall plug just at the top. follow that part of the harness toward the back of the engine. around the heat tube you might find that the harness has rubbed bare next to the heat tube. it did this on my 1999 astro and caused all kinds of problems, kept blowing the ecmb fuse. its amazing what a small short can do to the ecm.

i had the same problem. when you turn your key on listen by the gas cap for a whirring noise . if don hear the pump kick in replace it. you must drop the fuel tank to access the pump. my 1994 did the same thing . the engine would turn but not start. i thought i had bad gas but it was the fuel pump. replaced it and it ran fine...hope this helps...
My 96 wouldnt start last night, nor today. From what it sounds like it might be the fuel pump (will have my husband listen for the whirring noise tonight). He is pretty intimidated about doing it himself. If we have a repair book would it be pretty easy...well nothings ever easy...I mean worth it to do ourselves. How would you rate the difficulty level and do you have any hints or suggestions...Thanks

I would rate the difficulty medium/high. I don't think it's a one-person job unless they're a pro. Definitely have a floor jack and a wide board to support the tank as you drop it down.

two floor jacks make it easier, as does two people and an empty gas tank :)

Well an update to an almost two month project, The Fuel pump was indeed the problem, However More problems have developed with the motor, I can start and run the motor just fine, but It is suddenly burning oil, I noticed oil coming from the underside of the Catylitic converter Recently, Also the motor doesnt sound like is running on all cylinders, Blown head gasket?, Bad CC? Vacuum Leak?

Hi all. I am sure some of you know this but just in case... The power to the electric fuel pump runs through the oil pressure sender (grey wire) once the vehicle has started and the key is in the run position. The reason for this is safety. If you are in a accident and the fuel line is severed due to collision damage the fuel pump will shut off once the engine quits. GM doesn't want the fuel pump to spew gasoline all over the place in case of an accident and the unfortunate guy or gal forgets, or is unable due to injuries or being trapped inside the vehicle, to turn off the key (whether the engine is still running or not). During initial key on and cranking there is a starter bypass that feeds current to the fuel pump and bypasses the oil pressure sender. This will also (hopefuly) prevent engine destruction if you lose oil pressure while driving and don't realise it. The engine will die, due to fuel pump shutting off, and not cause further damage to itself.
Also for those of you listening for the fuel pump at the gas filler, when you turn the key to run, the pump will only go a few seconds and then stop unless the engine computer see's an RPM signal from the engine (engine needs to start to see this signal). This is another safety feature. When listening for the pump you may need to cycle the key several times.
Also someone said to jump 12 volts to the short single wire that breaks out of the wiring harness just below the fuel pump relay. This is the proper way to test the pump, thats why that little wire is there in the first place. Good Luck!