EveryOne with Transmission problems... A Chrysler Secret...! Read This...!

EveryOne with Transmission problems... Read This...!
A Chrysler Secret...!

well good morning everyone...

first post here... and I have been busy...

our 97 Dodge Caravan SE Sport with a 3.3 and the a604/41te transmission...

The tranni just Stopped working from a red light... "Limp Mode" 200miles away from
home, with No warning...
-1st gear, 2nd gear, reverse, neutral, and park... Only...

it shifts through 1st to 2nd fine... but when it attempts to shift into 3rd...
it Jumps to Neutral... until the engine and road speed get close together, then it Locks
2nd gear...
Then the computer pops up code #45 -EATX Controller has sent a DTC

it is the TCM (Transmission Control Module) on the passenger sidewall that controls
the Seloenoid Pack on the transmission so it will shift...
this is also called the EATX Controller...

ALL the Garages state i Need a new transmission, or a rebuilt one...
ALL the Dealers state the same thing...
"2000.00 Dollars" on average...!

ALL the manual's claim it is a direct fault that is emissions related...

So... i would not accept the mechanics or the dealers thought's...
This can't be right... Everything was Fine... and we All know transmissions will
give you some indication of internal fault... Prior to going out on you...

when Everyone is telling you it is slipping... they are Wrong...!
Neutral is not an engagement of the clutches....

When a tranni slips... you can still go forward... just have to gas it more as the
bands/clutches slip...
You still have forward motion...

NO Tranni will start to slip, and go right to being gone instantly...!
it is physically impossible, with normal daily driving...

So I replace the Solenoid pack on the side of the tranni... thinking, maybe the fluid
is Not flowing through the channels correctly... the Solenoid Pack is what physically
shifts this tranni...
Nope... that was Not the problem...

So I replace the input and output speed sensors...
Nope... that was not the problem...

hmmm...
So I replace the EATX Controller... because this controls the Solenoid Pack...
Nope... that was not the problem...
Still code #45

I noticed that a piece of folded paper was wrapped up with the EATX Controller I bought...
and what do you know... it Also states that this is an Emissions related fault...

So... I call the 1-800 hotline... 1-800-866-6727 then press 1 then press 4 to speak with Miguell...
M-F 8am-5pm eastern time... he will tell you... this guy talks...!

the guy tells me a little secret that Chrysler has...

on ALL a604 transmissions... there is a splice point... to make these transmission work properly...
that splices together a red wire from the Solenoid Pack, a red wire from the TCM/EATX, and a wire from
where the EATX Relay is plugged in...
The TSB Addendum was sent out to the production line...
Because they where having the Same problem... Right from the Get Go...
they spliced the three wires together, capping off the remaining wire... and electrical taped the
wires together and pushed them into the wire loom...

What the Hell kind of B.S. is that...

The guy tells me to clean the spliced wires, and reconnect them...
then tells me... also... check the Ground Strap to the transmission...

well... guess what everyone...

Before I called the hotline... I car dolly the van home...
and ended up taking it to a tranni place...
we have a terminally disabled child here, and need this vehicle for medical purposes...

the tranni place told me that the Clutch Packs are Fine... 89 CVI /Clutch Volume Index...
Always ask the person that is hooking a scan tool up to your computer, to check your CVI...!
the Clutch Volume Index runs from the 70's on upward as they wear...
if One gear is bad... the Volume Index will shoot right up near 100 or so...

anyway... he replaced the tranni with one that he re-built… old… JB welded trans pan...
Guess what.... I was able to get this out of him...
it Still did Not Work...!
He states "but it worked when we got all done didn’t it"
Yeah... After putting a brand New shiny ground strap I noticed on...!

I just did not know where the ground strap was with this EATX/TCM Selenoid Pack wire issue...
I paid 1700 of my son's school money, because we do not have any, for a new ground strap...! and an Old transmission...

So... Now you ALL know the Truth…!

Watch it..!
EveryOne will Rip you OFF...!
including the Dealer...

A financially Broken family...

and "ONLY USE ATF +3 FLUID IN THESE THINGS" PERIOD...!

Man...That don't sound like a very good experience :( Can I instill some insights here? First, I got barrels of parts that fail on these with no warning what so ever. The clutch packs do not fail(unless ran low on ATF, or pre '93)These always have hard part failure(plantary gears, 2/4 hub and others. Unfortunatly its sounds like there are some people in your area that don't know electronics very well. The code #45 came from the ECM and all that code means is its stating there is a code in the TCM(Transmission control mudule). So there must of been codes stored in the TCM.

Throwing parts at it because some code reader gave a code is such a waste of money.

There are so many different ways a transmission can fail. Every trasnmssion has its own type of problem. Also, if you were in the area of 100,000 miles on your transmission, you better hope that $1700 got you new planet kit, 2/4 hub and rev hub. And, hopefully they aren't using "white box" parts.

If you have to guess, better make it an educated guess.
Have a good day

well... No other codes found...

even in the tranni menu... nothing...
Just 45 at the main PCM...

two seperate parts here folks...

One computer talking to the next...

PCM Drivers side wall

TCM Passenger side wall

Even the dealer stated per quote, "hugh... that's funny"
and proceeded with a smile, stating we needed a new transmission...

it's the damn 3 wire splice, and the ground strap...!

it seems as though the error was an open circuit... shutting the TCM
off...
and the main system picks that as code 45... EATX Controller fault...

if the TCM does not have any power going to it, how the Beeep can the
thing control the Selenoid pack to shift...

at least this is what I am gathering...

although, as a test... I removed the EATX relay for a test run...
and it was Instantly in 2nd gear, from 0mph..

put the relay back in, and I got 1st and 2nd.. then a dump to neutral
and then 2nd gear lock...

I am going to test the whole thing out tomarrow, by removing the
ground strap... see if this old rebuild will dump to Limp Mode...

I'll let ya's know...

hi...im having the same problem with my caravan. It only happens on highways with me. It switches into neutral then when i slow down it switches to second and stays there...I wuz wondering if it is simple for anyone to find the 3 wires and the ground themselves..I'm a bit tight on money right now. Can u please tell me how? Thanks

This is EXACTLY what my van is doing!! Can you tell me where this splice would be?? and where is the ground strap on the tranny? Haven't had a physical look yet but would like to know ehat I'm looking for..

Thanks again! This is SOME hope that this repaire won't cost me 3000!

Tim.

I am having the same problems as all of you and I will try what you have said. One other thing I found out here on the web is to take off the battery for 10 minutes and the tranny will come out of limp mode. I will be trying this tomorrow. My 96 3.3 will barely move and only if you rev the engine. Then as it is coming down it suddenly will engage for a short time, but disengages when you come to a stop. I also do not have reverse. I do have one question. Does anyone here a high pitched whine with all of this? Tx Will be on again soon

my tranny on my 97 voyager slipped into neutral going 60 on the freeway.my fluid was a little low but,it still will not shift passed 2nd gear about 40 mph.I agree that it must be problem with the sensors.

Did you ever get the problem fixed? I have a 96 Plymth Grnd Vyr with a 3.3 and it will disengage at a stop or will not engage going from rev to fwd unless you rev up the engine and it will then slam into gear.

You know i wrote chrysler a letter telling them about the problems on our 97 voyager the transmission was slipping and asked them if there was any thing they can do to help beeing that so many people where having problems with trannys and they said there was nothing they could do. You know i will never buy another chrysler vehicle. We should all write to chrysler cause one person cant do it alone so if you all get together and pass the word i would appreciate it lets all do something here maybe some of you with newer vehicles might get something back even half of what you spend on a tranny would be nice. good luck FrankC

I was thinking a list of names would be suficient since we all are complaining about the same tranny issues. But Chrysler is not listening... check this guy out http://www.aei.ca/~gregoire/claude.html
And this one is the best... I would be ashamed to be a Chrysler worker with all this allegations http://www.daimlerchryslervehicleproblems.com/

If you want more horror stories just do a www.google.com (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Chrysler+problems) search for "Chrysler problems" and grab a confy chair, you'll be in for a long ride!

thanks ed i will be bugging them till somethings done and getting as many people that i can to join me and just letting people know these vehicles are not just lemons but also unsafe. Like i said i will never buy another chrysler, Plymouth or Dodge vehicle as long as i live. Thanks FrankC

I posted this here a couple months back. I just reposted it again with the word transmission in the title so it is easy to search out.
Before you do anything else...Disconnect your battery! Clean the + and the - posts and the cables that attach to them. Check the chassis ground that goes from your batteies - post to the frame(chassis) and clean that too. Shiny metal to shiny metal is good. Rust and corrosion is not your friend.
I've followed alot of posts here that have transmissions in limp mode problems. Crawl under the vehicle with a haynes book in hand if need be, and check the solenoid connections to the trans. Clean the grounds for the solenoid! Check the wires for the solenoid! Too many trannys are rebuilt or replaced for big bucks because of a loose wire that was inadvertantly repaired during reinstall or a ground wire that was rusted.
get yourself an electrical diagram for your vehicle(www.alldata.com) and learn how to read it and save yourself alot of money. These diagrams tell you where the grounds are for all the components. Clean them. If you can't decipher the diagrams, copy and paste them into word and email it to me and I'll be happy to help. I hate to see people spend big bucks for parts swapping when the real problem is a loose or bad connection. "Never under estimate the value of a good visual inspection".
Remember all the battery voltage travels out the -(neg) post of your battery, through the frame(chassis), into the load(motor, light, coil of a relay, or switch, through a fuse, and back to you battery +. (pos) post.

I am newcome to this forum, but old timer regarding 89 dodge B250 with 4speed tranny. The hulk has 275000 on it, orig untouched engine and tranny. But recently am getting buck and jump occasionally when in 4th gear. If I lock out overdrive it stops. It is worst when accelerating.

I am suspicious that the solenoid which engages the overdrive is going bad, but after reading all these posts, think maybe now it is bad or corroded connection. Just got through putting vacuum modulator in wife's 93 Regal which cured similar problem (got suggestion from Buick forum expert) and thus managed to translate the Haynes manual.

Have being running synthetic oil since got this vehicle at 71000 miles several years ago and it has been one of the most dependable faithful hardworking vehicles I have owned in the past 60 years. I admit it's only the third chrysler product I have had (the others: a 39 Dodge business coupe; a 62 Fury wagon). Before I crawl under the SOB (which is increasingly difficult for me) I will appreciate any ideas, thoughts, suggestions.

well... No other codes found...

even in the tranni menu... nothing...
Just 45 at the main PCM...

two seperate parts here folks...

One computer talking to the next...

PCM Drivers side wall

TCM Passenger side wall

Even the dealer stated per quote, "hugh... that's funny"
and proceeded with a smile, stating we needed a new transmission...

it's the damn 3 wire splice, and the ground strap...!

it seems as though the error was an open circuit... shutting the TCM
off...
and the main system picks that as code 45... EATX Controller fault...

if the TCM does not have any power going to it, how the Beeep can the
thing control the Selenoid pack to shift...

at least this is what I am gathering...

although, as a test... I removed the EATX relay for a test run...
and it was Instantly in 2nd gear, from 0mph..

put the relay back in, and I got 1st and 2nd.. then a dump to neutral
and then 2nd gear lock...

I am going to test the whole thing out tomarrow, by removing the
ground strap... see if this old rebuild will dump to Limp Mode...

I'll let ya's know...

my tranni went into a limp mode. my computer gave me code41 (selenoid and or TCM problems). i changed the Selenoid pack with a new one. still have the same problem.
after reading your input. i would like to try this to locate and change them my self.

i hope you can help.
thanks

Ttt

Hey all, I have a 92 Dodge Caravan 3.3 with the 4-speed transmission,
and is limp mode,Trasmission has been flushed and there are no codes at
all. I have unhooked the battery waited about 10 minutes and tried it and had all 4 gears and shifted like a dream,shut it off and went into limp mode ever since. Its been posted about a 3 wire splice point,a Chrysler
Secret,can someone tell me where this splice might be???


:banghead:

I have called Miguel and he sent me information that helped me fix my car.

although Miguel told me to check the Grounding wires 53 & 57, which i did. i found that these wires were ok but wire #20 which is connected to the TCM had a .2 Ohms (it suppose to be + 5.0 Ohms). I connected a new wire from wire #20 to wire # 7 at the L-R Solenoid.
the problem was fixed. but i still have the Service Engine soon (I also have an O2 Sensor Problem).

your problem is electrical.

it cost me about $390 because i changed the shift solenoid ($165 before) and the guy had to check some other wires before he listen to me and follow the diagrams i showed him.

i am very happy with the results. i hope it helps you too.

thanks for this ideas how do i know where the ground strap is or where to put it please let me know

bump:banghead:

:2cents: Chrysler has had problems with their lock up torque convertors,especially the first generation shelby dakotas. They have poor lubrication thru the duel shaftsin the convertorI am having the same problems as all of you and I will try what you have said. One other thing I found out here on the web is to take off the battery for 10 minutes and the tranny will come out of limp mode. I will be trying this tomorrow. My 96 3.3 will barely move and only if you rev the engine. Then as it is coming down it suddenly will engage for a short time, but disengages when you come to a stop. I also do not have reverse. I do have one question. Does anyone here a high pitched whine with all of this? Tx Will be on again soon

this has been asked before but i can not find the answer
Where the hell is the splice I cant find it please help goig nuts
t

Hey guys lets do a survay how many ppl have changed the output sensor and fix the problems or the input sensor.... intresting to see what goes bad more often Im on the output sensor and ok so far 2 days
t

where is the grounding strap? where is the other wires you all are talking about? #20? and so on?

Ok the latest... If the van is cold in he morning the tranny works perfect but after work when i am going home it will not work at all out of limp mode no matter what i do..
any ideas

T

I started having transmission problem two days ago on my 97 Grand Voyager. Like the rest of you, it goes into "limp mode," with one difference: Now it won't shift out of first. I disconnected the battery for thirty minutes or so and reconnected it. It seemed to fix the problem for a couple of miles, then it started doing the same thing again. Worse, now the door ajar chime keeps ringing and all the park and instrument panel lights flash. ARRRGH!

that one sounds electrical let us know what you find
T

Just a note too all on here
IF you have a fix for us all to try why would up not give the locations of said fix so the rest of us can find them, Telling us all about a ground strap or splice that you have fixed but not telling us where the hell it is doesnt help all that much it just makes the rest of us trying your fix looking all over the dam place
T

So where exactly is this ground strap and those wires that are taped together. How do you get to them. I just spent a couple of hours looking on my 98 Voyager.

So where exactly is this ground strap and those wires that are taped together. How do you get to them. I just spent a couple of hours looking on my 98 Voyager.

as i said above I too am looking for this info and have asked on a few postes but no one seems to want to tell us this little tidbit, SO again it anyone knows the answer PLEASE tell us
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead:

I have a 99 GC Sport w/ 3.8L engine. So far I've been lucky and haven't had any tranny problems yet.
But I've just checked alldata for the wires and ground locations but there are too many diagrams to look through. Can anyone tell me which specific wires and ground diagrams I'm looking for? Thanks

Check your relays on the fire wall as well as the pass. side inner fender I changed mine and what the hell do do you know it worked SO FAR only time will tell
T

ADDED that works better but still have problems

after codes read they tell me that the tcm and the ecm are not connected so i can not get a reading of codes but it still works proper sometimes HELLLLLLLLLP

:uhoh: Why will not someone answer the simple question...
Where is the splice and ground strap?!?!?!?:banghead:
I have a 1997 Grand Voyager.
Was travelling at 60 MPH when it shifted into neutral. Been in limp mode ever since. I would love to be able to check these things before paying big bucks for a new grounding strap.

Another thing is with the spider gear pin breaking and will ruin the case.This is also a common problem too.If you have the transmission out,pull the cover for diff and weld the ends of the spider gear pin to the housing and not the spider gears.

Fast927 - Post a new thread and ask the question. Many more will see it. Also check Chryslerminivan.net

You know i wrote chrysler a letter telling them about the problems on our 97 voyager the transmission was slipping and asked them if there was any thing they can do to help beeing that so many people where having problems with trannys and they said there was nothing they could do. You know i will never buy another chrysler vehicle. We should all write to chrysler cause one person cant do it alone so if you all get together and pass the word i would appreciate it lets all do something here maybe some of you with newer vehicles might get something back even half of what you spend on a tranny would be nice. good luck FrankC

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/icons/icon8.gif ITS HIGH TIME CHRYSLER CORP. IS HELD RESPONSABLE!!


I too find myself among the many Thousands of consumers shafted by Chryslers poorly designed transmissions and the external componants used in their Mini Vans.
We purchased a 1996 in 1997 with 24K miles. At 51K with no warning the tranny died! Since the first time the tranny blew up the van now has 108K miles and has been Replaced or Repaired 4 (Four) MORE TIMES!!!!



I also wrote Chrysler Corp. a stern letter informing them about the constant (and well documented) problems with our 1996 Grand Caravans transmission issues and my empty wallet. Did they show any concern???? NO!!! They could care less.
I believe a CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT should be filed against them. Chrysler has known about this problem from the beginning and has done little to rectify it. They have also shown no care or concern for the public safety of people driving their van when it dies with no warning


on highways, intersections etc. Think of all the consumers who have lost money that most of us don’t have to throw away, on their negligence to rectify a well known crap%#y product.


http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/icons/icon14.gif If anyone out there has the resources, contacts or avaiable information to explore the possibility of filing a Class Action Suit against them, I myself would give a 110% in fighting this justifiable cause !!

hello, i am having the same problem!!! simply put i bought this 93 concorde w/ 187k, did a simple tune up and worked great. so i decided with all these miles its a good idea to do a fluid change. well i changed it w. the dextron mercon...bad idea PROBLEMS EVER SINCE. as soon as i put it into gear she didnt respond acted like it was coughing, slipping and studdering...so i read on the allpar.com site about using the 7176 (atf4 fluid) and did a flush immediately...SAME PROBLEM..limp mode!!! arrgh. shops tell me its full rebuild time and i refuse to believe that. changed the input/output sensors same problem..bought a solenoid pack and looks to be like on my 93 the pack is integrated...theres a connector but it goes right into the case..no bolts.

about the 'splicing' problem guys, i found the ground strap...its on the starter...starter bolts on driver side to tranny..starter shares ground strap w. tranny...hope this helps..for the splice..i think it mite be some bs, i found the red wires, just look on the tcm and pcm connectors its about a 20 gauge red wire. and i have a funny feeling it fools the pcm/tcm out of limp mode...wary to try though..i can drive now afraid if i connect them together ill be going 0mph :shakehead also i get code 21 on the cel (check engine light), says its an 02 oxygen sensor issue..CAN AN O2 ISSUE MAKE LIMP MODE OCCUR?? PLEASE RESPOND BACK. best regards guys w. our limp mode issues

so i put in the 02 sensor w. no prevail...i got mad and starting driving like a 16 year old with it and got it to bump shift and get in and out of limp mode...torque converter shakes and studders..im guessing (and hoping) the tcm needs to be reflashed. i read on a few sites including allpar you need to reflash or reprogram the tcm after a fluid change..stealership says $95, thats my next investment...and i found a really good site for more struggling with the damn limp mode...http://www.robskorner.org/faqs/Trans/A604codes.html very helpful..and http://www.diyforums.net/forums/cars/37821-92-dodge-grand-caravan-shakes.html

if anyone knows if flashing the tcm helps before i waste a benjamin let me know...regards -mustangiifrk

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/icons/icon8.gif ITS HIGH TIME CHRYSLER CORP. IS HELD RESPONSABLE!!


I too find myself among the many Thousands of consumers shafted by Chryslers poorly designed transmissions and the external componants used in their Mini Vans.
We purchased a 1996 in 1997 with 24K miles. At 51K with no warning the tranny died! Since the first time the tranny blew up the van now has 108K miles and has been Replaced or Repaired 4 (Four) MORE TIMES!!!!



I also wrote Chrysler Corp. a stern letter informing them about the constant (and well documented) problems with our 1996 Grand Caravans transmission issues and my empty wallet. Did they show any concern???? NO!!! They could care less.
I believe a CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT should be filed against them. Chrysler has known about this problem from the beginning and has done little to rectify it. They have also shown no care or concern for the public safety of people driving their van when it dies with no warning


on highways, intersections etc. Think of all the consumers who have lost money that most of us don’t have to throw away, on their negligence to rectify a well known crap%#y product.


http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/icons/icon14.gif If anyone out there has the resources, contacts or avaiable information to explore the possibility of filing a Class Action Suit against them, I myself would give a 110% in fighting this justifiable cause !!



you speak with your dollars. Don't buy another Chrysler product, and get rid of the one you have, unless you ensure that you purchase ONLY aftermarket parts, and don't buy anything from the dealer themselves.

I have purchased my last Chrysler product, and told them so after back to back deductible payments on my drivetrain warranty on a 2005 Gr. Caravan that blew a head gasket, then the water pump!

I called Chrysler corporation and asked them to refund me one of the 2 deductibles, and I read to them every transcript of every conversation I had with the stealership.

I told them "for $100, you are willing to lose my business forever?". He stated that Chrysler cannot get involved with dealer disputes. I informed him of his crappy product that sent me there in the first place (38,000 miles...blown head gasket).

well guys im back sorry to disappoint but ive sold the concorde for $200..front end damage, wheel bearing and damn limp mode issue..88k on the dash as well...a steal just for the motor its worth more than that. luckily im a huge mopar fan so i found a 95 neon ill be working on...to everyone suffering with the acursed limp mode, best of luck :)

:uhoh: Why will not someone answer the simple question...
Where is the splice and ground strap?!?!?!?:banghead:
I have a 1997 Grand Voyager.
Was travelling at 60 MPH when it shifted into neutral. Been in limp mode ever since. I would love to be able to check these things before paying big bucks for a new grounding strap.
On the 3.3 the ground strap if you are under the hood is right in front of where the passanger sets and goes behind the alternator. On the 4 cyl it is connected to the valve cover. Buy a 24 inch battery cable and a 40 inch cable both with open ends for putting on bolts. Put the 24 on battery bolt then under the breather there is a ground point on the engine put the other end of 24 and one end of the 40. Put the other end of the 40 on firewall where the main ground strap is. The 3 red wires is really 1 red flow through with another red kind of glued to it. This is located in the main wiring harness comming from the trans. Get under the car follow the wires from the connectors cut open loom and follow about 14 to 16 inches into the loom.This will probably not be your problem (red wires) the main issues are regrounding the engine and firewall and the connectors at the solenoid on the transmission.

well guys im back sorry to disappoint but ive sold the concorde for $200..front end damage, wheel bearing and damn limp mode issue..88k on the dash as well...a steal just for the motor its worth more than that. luckily im a huge mopar fan so i found a 95 neon ill be working on...to everyone suffering with the acursed limp mode, best of luck :)
what all are you going to do ??

Same issue with my 96 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, Aamco said need new transmission but that the gears are still decent, logically seems VERY electrical! I am going to try the ground strap first, then solenoid pack. It had low fluid once and I heard that that can cause failure to the packs, anyone else heard that?

:shakehead

It is extremely annoying when people don't come back and explain where things are.

The red wire this guy speaks of that is connected to the solenoid pack is on pin 4. It is the 12 volt supply to the solenoids. If the TCM senses an issue and activates limp mode, it will cut the power to the 12 volt supply. You can stop limp mode by wiring the 12 volt supply to the battery and bypassing the relay altogether - however, I don't recommend wiring directly to the battery, if you do remember to use an inline fuse!!

I will be trying this tomorrow to see what happens. This of course can only be a temporary solution, ultimately it is important to find out what is causing limp mode.

I friggin hate my chrysler!! 2007 pt cruiser. Limp in mode. I have searched to the ends of the internet to try to figure this all out. And now I see something saying something about a transmission ground strap. Where the hell is the friggin thing at????? I will find it somehow. The only place this car has driven me is crazy!!!!! I took it to my nearest "dealer" and they can't stick their finger up their ass without guideance. DESKINS MOTORS OF PIKEVILLE KENTUCKY SUCKS!!! They had it for two weeks, they couldn't get it started at first, and asked me if I could come start it for them. What a joke. If I were a man, i'd be damned if I would call a woman and ask her to come start a car for me, especially if I were calling myself a "technician". HA. Then, after throwing parts at it, they said come get it, it's fixed. I picked it up, and as soon as I pulled outta the lot, I could tell it STILL was not shifting. I had just paid them almost 700.00. I turned around and took it right back to them, and left it there. They told me the next day that it needed an alternator, and it was a dealer part, and the alternator alone would cost 280.00. I played the stupid little wife part and said gee let me call my husband and ask him first. I called some places, and found an alternator for 127.00. Went and got the car, we put the alternator in and guess what. Still not shifting. took it to an honest guy, he looked and looked, and said all he could figure out was that it could be the pcm. I sent it to a place in Texas, they charged me 375.00 and Still NO SHIFT!!! They didn't do a damn thing to it. They just charged me. I told my husband I did not like chryslers about a year and a half ago when he came home telling me how he liked those "little pt cruisers" I told him they looked like those old milk trucks. But that I knew that is what I would end up with, and guess what, PIECE OF SHIT. Hell, I think we are their own personal stimulas package. Just sell people "mystery cars" that have all these unnecessary parts, that you have to take to "dealers" who are supposed to have a clue, and probably do, but are probably made to screw people around, and put on parts they don't even need. All to make chrylser more money. Oh, I know this makes me sound nutty, but I went to a psychic a few years ago, and she told me I would be terribly injured in an accident, and to stay away from light blue cars.... guess what color my pt cruiser is??? yep,,, light blue. Maybe I should be mad at my husband, not chrysler. LOL

calm down. first off you are in the wrong forum! their is one for pt cruisers. second off you need to have it diagnosed properly!

try asking the dealer back for the money on the missed diagnosis! but i warn you they might be less than willing to help since you put a cheap reman alternator on! while the cheap reman was cheaper? it is going to cost you more in the long run because once the dealer put their part on they would have figured out that is not the problem and put your old one back on. thus starting the diagnosis process over again. you might want to try a different dealer or independant! but this time if they are independant make sure they have the software to read chrysler transmission codes! good luck! mike

I have a similar issue (1st 2nd neutral) I looked on alldata and it shows the splice on my 1996 to be close to the tcm (probobly within a foot by looking at the pic) I hope this helps somebody. I will check mine out in the next couple days.

I'm having the same issue on my 2002 Chrysler T&C. Does anyone know where the wires are on this vehicle? Is there a Youtube video or other video out there showing the fix?

I have a 97 Grand Caravan with same problem, first and second gear ok and then neutral and second lock. They say I need a new transmission, but I would much prefer the wire solution or the PCM code reset solution. Has anyone been successful with the three wire and ground strap solution? Seems to good to be true, and I have not seen any posts from anyone who has done it successfully. Let us all know if you have done it successfully and where the wires are.

Thanks!

I have a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan with many of the problems listed in this thread. The transmission went into the limp mode, speedometer didn't work, and gear selector indicator had all the selections boxed. Based on what I read here, I changed the input and output speed sensors, checked all the wiring connections on every plug, added ground connections/wires to several components (chassis to engine), cleaned all existing ground connections, and then purchased a solenoid pack from a junkyard and was about ready to install that. By the way, I put direct 12v current on the #4 terminal as suggested above to force the Transmission Control Module to power up and communicate with the PCM, but no luck there either. I may have not understood what the suggestions were above, with all the "three wire" hook up. Anyway, then, I decided to check the fuse box. And I had a burned out fuse on the EATX circuit. The EATX 20amp fuse on the fuse panel under the hood on the drivers side and is labeled as "EATX". I had just serviced the transmission with a filter and oil change and then pressure washed the outside. The water must have caused a short. What I discovered, if this fuse is burned out it will put the transmission into a limp mode, won't shift out of 2nd gear and gear selector indicator will have all the squares lighted which will not allow one to know what gear the car is in. The reverse will work. I know the grounding of these transmission (a ground wire comes loose) and that is always important to check.

As a side not, on a similar unrelated problem here (which at first I thought was all interconnected) was all the panel control lights, A/C, wipers, etc were flashing on and off, continuously. I could not get them to stop. I changed the Body Control Module (BCM), and it did not fix it. Then, I discovered there's a calibration procedure to follow, which I did and fixed this too. I found this fix on one of the sites. Basically, you put the interior fan to high/cold, press the wiper and wash button simultaneously for 5 seconds and the BCM then "calibrates" the system. It takes a minute or two, but all systems begin to operate normally, at least it did in my case.

One last thing, I wouldn't recommend buying a 1996 Dodge Caravan. One shouldn't have to go to the dealer on repairs, but Dodge is clearly making a vehicle here which nearly requires specialized knowledge and equipment to do repairs.

the bcm has nothing to do with the climate control lights blinking there's frequently listed procedure how to calibrate. I'll bet you had a heck of time pulling the bcm with the one hidden screw on the top left.

ALL car manufacturers are making some parts of their vehicles dealer only service. like all hybrids, BMW, Volvo, and so on.

1996 caravans are one of the best minivans ever built. the 4dr, comfort, ease of maintenance, low cost repairs, cheap availability of parts. there's nothing wrong with owning one. they are no worse than other minivans and even a worn out p.o.s. 1996 minivans are still more reliable than cars of the 70's when quality was not job 1.

[QUOTE=luzhenry;6840762]Basically, you put the interior fan to high/cold, press the wiper and wash button simultaneously for 5 seconds and the BCM then "calibrates" the system.[QUOTE]

Thanks for passing your experience along. You are far from the first to overlook the EATX fuse. It supplies power to a portion of the transmission control module (TCM) and gives many fits. Just want to correct one thing on your second subject. It's the HVAC control module, built into the HVAC control panel, that performs the calibration procedure on the heating/cooling system and not the BCM. The only HVAC system function the BCM has is to light the HVAC panel button backlighting.

The two respondents above have further spurred a thought on the BCM and the reliability of the 1996 Dodge Caravan. Yes, I misspoke on the BCM calibrating to be sure, but I gathered that from other sites and threads when I was trying to fix the many problems I had (and some that I still have). Actually, I'm glad for the correct info. As for the BCM changeout, I only was following advice from other threads (though inaccurate or perhaps misunderstood by me for my specific issues). Nonetheless, I am very grateful for any information when I have these problems. Yes, changing the BCM is a little tricky, though anyone with moderate to expert skills can accomplish the swap. As for the 1996 Dodge being one of the best minivans. Well, yes, maybe. Although, I'm not convinced. I am fairly a proficient backyard mechanic and I must say this Dodge Caravan is taxing my abilities. Aside from the discussion above, I've replaced the left window regulator (pretty easy), plus I have oil residue in the radiator which I diagnosed as trans fluid leaking from the trans cooler into the water. No biggie, I just need a new radiator (it's an older vehicle, I get it), but aside from this and other things not mentioned here, to conclude it's one of the more reliable vans out there? One problem I have that is completely disturbing is with the built in security alarm system. It is seriously causing trouble, at times shutting the engine off at startup, cycling the auto door locks and making entry into the driver's door a problem. And now, when I turn on the headlights, there's a defaulting sequence into a constant beeping after three minutes, from I'm guessing the BCM under the dash. Anyway, once again, I'll search out the answers and will fix this.... eventually. My first order of business will be to attempt to disable the built in security system or simply try to defeat it. So, there it is, probably all of these Dodge "technical advancements" looked good on paper at the time the engineers put them in place, yet I being the end consumer 15 years later, when all of these things wear out and break, am frustrated. I yearn to return to the Model T days.

There are still one lingering item from this thread that no one, as best as I can tell, has answered.

1. What is the wire splice fix for the transmission shifting second to neutral to second and/or in limp mode?

The two respondents above have further spurred a thought on the BCM and the reliability of the 1996 Dodge Caravan. Yes, I misspoke on the BCM calibrating to be sure, but I gathered that from other sites and threads when I was trying to fix the many problems I had (and some that I still have). Actually, I'm glad for the correct info. As for the BCM changeout, I only was following advice from other threads (though inaccurate or perhaps misunderstood by me for my specific issues). Nonetheless, I am very grateful for any information when I have these problems. Yes, changing the BCM is a little tricky, though anyone with moderate to expert skills can accomplish the swap. As for the 1996 Dodge being one of the best minivans. Well, yes, maybe. Although, I'm not convinced. I am fairly a proficient backyard mechanic and I must say this Dodge Caravan is taxing my abilities. Aside from the discussion above, I've replaced the left window regulator (pretty easy), plus I have oil residue in the radiator which I diagnosed as trans fluid leaking from the trans cooler into the water. No biggie, I just need a new radiator (it's an older vehicle, I get it), but aside from this and other things not mentioned here, to conclude it's one of the more reliable vans out there? One problem I have that is completely disturbing is with the built in security alarm system. It is seriously causing trouble, at times shutting the engine off at startup, cycling the auto door locks and making entry into the driver's door a problem. And now, when I turn on the headlights, there's a defaulting sequence into a constant beeping after three minutes, from I'm guessing the BCM under the dash. Anyway, once again, I'll search out the answers and will fix this.... eventually. My first order of business will be to attempt to disable the built in security system or simply try to defeat it. So, there it is, probably all of these Dodge "technical advancements" looked good on paper at the time the engineers put them in place, yet I being the end consumer 15 years later, when all of these things wear out and break, am frustrated. I yearn to return to the Model T days.

There are still one lingering item from this thread that no one, as best as I can tell, has answered.

1. What is the wire splice fix for the transmission shifting second to neutral to second and/or in limp mode?

1. there isn't one. you must have someone with a scanner check the transmission computer. autozone cannot do this.

your alarm comes from the bcm. if you changed bcm's this can/will cause this problem

you really should get a toyota so you don't have anymore problems with your chrysler anxiety.

So, there's no "splice point" or wiring splicing for a transmission fix? In 2004, when this thread was started, the following was written:

"So... I call the 1-800 hotline... 1-800-866-6727 then press 1 then press 4 to speak with Miguell...
M-F 8am-5pm eastern time... he will tell you... this guy talks...!

the guy tells me a little secret that Chrysler has...

on ALL a604 transmissions... there is a splice point... to make these transmission work properly...
that splices together a red wire from the Solenoid Pack, a red wire from the TCM/EATX, and a wire from
where the EATX Relay is plugged in..."

Can anyone clarify where these wires are? Or, was this all nonsense?

On the alarm / BCM change out. The alarm was malfunctioning with door lock problems before the BCM change. The BCM that I put in did not have the same series number, it was all I could find at the junkyard. The BCM, although the same year, apparently did not have the alarm function. The change did not work, and it changed the milage readout, which incidentally added more miles to my van. There's someone out there who knows how to fix this if they wouldn't mind giving some advice. As for going to the dealership, or transmission tech shop, etc, ain't gonna happen. I joined this forum, and search the sites because I'm a do-it-yourselfer, which in my estimation, is still Americana at its best.

These are diagrams for a 96 MY caravan. ES01 splice is not far from the trans controller. If you want to repair your van yourself you might want to get a subscription to alldata.
http://www.alldatadiy.com/

I was at a shop when they were fixing a splice problem. If it is the same one you're asking about, I'm not sure. If I remember correctly it was in a harness underneath the fuse/relay box. It was a few years ago, so my memory may be a bit off, but I hope this helps.

Sorry I'm bad! Reading again I see that luz has a 04 Caravan. Able to get this diagram at home. As you can see the wire color has changed it is now a yellow with a orange tracer. Splice is S114. I don't have access to splice location info at home. Splice will possibly be somewhere near the IPM. Older models the IPM was called the PDC. Even these are suspect with their connector and for corrosion internally. I will try to dig up more info tomorrow at work.

RE 1996 Caravan "ES01 splice is not far from the trans controller"

jpb53, great info, plus the alldata reference. Could you explain what is the ES01 splice, I mean, what wires are connected together or is the splice already in place and simply develops a faulty connection which needs to be respliced?

Follow-up opinion on 1996 Caravan - my first ever Dodge van. In an attempt to fix oil in the radiator (believed to be trans fluid leaking within), I went to the local junkyard, there were 4 vans to choose from. All had the radiators removed. I guess I'm not the only one. No problem, I removed a standalone trans cooler on a F150 and will adapt. Yet, now that I'm making good progress on all my repairs, and the van runs pretty good, I'm pretty happy overall.

Red box is where the splice is.

1997 Chrysler LHS - 3.5 Motor

On mother's day of all days the car went into limp mode. It seems to shift fine manually but obviously in limp mode it will not shift beyond the single gear allowed in order for me to limp home. I highly suspect that there is something electrical going on and not actual hard trans damage of any kind but I could of course be wrong. I had the system scanned with one of those heavy duty scanners and these are the codes that it tossed in my direction...

12 - Battery Power To Mod Disconnected
29 - TPS Signal
36 - Fault Immediate After Shift
53 - Gear Ratio Speed In 3rd
54 - Gear Ratio Speed In 4th
74 - Calculated Oil Temp In Use

I believe that 36,53,54 are the only codes that can send the trans into limp mode but not so sure about that so hoping someone might have some advice there too but what I mainly need to know is what I should be trying to do next to fix this issue so the car will safely come out of limp mode. I need to get the vehicle up and running without being ripped off and without wasting money trying to fix the wrong things, so any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

UPDATE: We replaced input and output speed sensors and that did not fix issue. Nor did trying another computer brain. So now we are really lost and running out of options.