S10 2.2L Cuts off while driving, then won't start

I've been working with a friend who has a problem with his 96 Isusu Hombre 2.2L (same as S10). Runs fine, then intermittantly cuts off. He pulls to the side of the road, and tries to start it. It cranks but won't fire. He waits about 10 minutes or so, then he starts it up just fine. No computer codes.

Now, I've read over a dozen threads on this forum about this specific bug, but noone has yet been able to document a fix.

Come on now, the one who documents a fix will win the prize!! Please help these poor souls who are struggling with this bug. It is obviously a common problem with S10's.

Thanks and Happy Motoring!

PS: I'd fix my buddy's problem, but I'm in Alabama and he's in New York.

NovaRod
72 Nova 2-door Coupe
4 speed BW ST10
406 small block
chevy 12-bolt 3.73 gears Auburn posi

Thank you Rod for posting my problems. I thought I'd add a bit more info. Starting the vehicle is a more common problem then quitting while running, with similar symptoms to other's problems that I have been reading here. Something different with my Hombre is that the problems starting appear to be weather related. They happen in times of drastic temperature change, in the Fall, Spring, and Winter. I've never had a problem in the Summer.

The following work has been performed- new fuel filter, 2nd ground put in, spark plug wires have been replaced, the relays replaced and a crank case sensor has been replaced. The next step is (was) to have ICM replaced but from reading other posts this does not fix the problem.

Hopefully we'll have an answer soon. :banghead:

Joshua :uhoh:

Had the same problem on a 3800 olds replaced cam sensor and ran fine after. Hope this helps.

I have a post here as well
I ran the diagnostic test and found that
I have a bad coolant temperature sensor.

10 bucks and change at autozone

have not had time to put it in yet.

- Mike

I'm guessing the cam sensor is the same as the crank trigger? Anyway, that has been exchanged. No fix.

I like the thought of the coolant temperature sensor because if the sensor is defective, the engine would think it's cold (when it's hot) and not adjust itself correctly. I had a '93 Ford F150 that had that problem and what a problem it was!

Has anyone considered the coil pack or ECM?

How about the possibility of a fusable link that is intermittantly failing?

Josh, you may want to check the fuel pump when this failure surfaces. When it cuts out and you go to start it, do you hear the fuel pump prime itself?

I think it's important to keep this thread going so we can capture this problem. Thanks for your replies!
NovaRod

Rod,

Josh says he hears the fuel pump prime before he cranks it both when it starts and when it fails.

Relays in back of glove box dropping out (but not always!) suggest a voltage drop somewhere - bad connection, high resistance link?. Couldn't that throw everything off and the ECM would tell "DON'T START"?

mjfdesigns post which resulted in coolant sensor reads like a different problem, IMHO.

Oil pressure sensor and fusible links sound like low cost things to try next.

Also need to confirm (with tester) if spark continues present when failure occurs.

My s-10 is doing the same thing once a week, I 've changed the ignition switch, crakshaft sensor, ignition mod. This is very frustrating. I to will send a prize to the person who has a fix for this.

My s-10 is doing the same thing once a week, I 've changed the ignition switch, crakshaft sensor, ignition mod. This is very frustrating. I to will send a prize to the person who has a fix for this.


It's the fuel pump cutoff switch. Located on the right side of the engine. The dealer will be able to tell you where. Do i get a prize?

OK everyone, go out as fast as you can and find the fuel pump cutoff switch!

Can you elaborate any on this? Is it an overload type of switch, or did the dealer who originally receive the truck forget to turn it on and these poor folks have been wandering aimlessly trying to find out why life was so mean to them?

Also, (I am a bit thick here) is it to the right as you face the engine or as you sit in the driver's seat?

If your looking into the passenger side wheel well. Its the oil pressure sensor. Its also the fuel pump cut off switch

Just slap my forehead!!!!
I had a 74 Corvette that I put an electric fuel pump on and wired it to cut off when I lost oil pressure.

A good catch. You are truely a gifted gearhead!

Thanks for the post. It looks lie a good piece of intel.

Does the fuel pump cut off switch cause the relay clicking noise from the glove box???(don't want to sound stupid) and why would it only cut out once in a while and not all the time ?

The clicking noise your hearing is the fuel pump relay clicking. That means its working. I think becuase it shuts off once in a while is that maybe your oil pressure is dropping.

My guess would be that the oil pressure sensor (i.e. fuel pump switch), if defective, may fail not only intermittantly, but could drop from the normal 12 volts to something less, thus causing relay chatter. The relay chatter is caused when the pick voltage is less than needed. The theory behind relays is that it takes more to pick a relay than hold the relay closed.

This is classic failure, imho.

The reason many mechanics and dealers fail to find this type of failure is that they are weak in the electrical skills necessary to troubleshoot electrical/electronic problems. Their skills are strong mechanically, but not in electrical theory (i.e. trace a ladder diagram, understand loop and nodal analysis to isolate a complex circuit loop, etc.).

Nova Rod

xtremetrk is on to something. Look at two things here: is the oil pressure dropping or is the oil pressure good and the pressure switch defective?

Ok, I'm sold. I've pick up a oil pressure switch at auto zone($21.00) and will put it in on saturday, here's hopeing this will fix the problem. Prize yet to be determined.

If you try to get a new oil pressure switch, DO NOT GO TO ADVANCED AUTO PARTS!!!!!!!!! THE PART DOES NOT WORK. Go to the Dealer , use a factory part, its not that expensive.

The aftermarket pegged my gauge (went passed 80 and didnt show the real pressure) aftermarket part didnt work

I see it's kind of tight in there, how hard is it to
change out?

I looked at it with Josh yesterday, cold,dark and nasty in there. We're wimping out and having our mechanic do it!

Also:
1. Noted xtremetrk recommends Mfr. part.
2. Suggest check connectors and wires very carefully in that area also.

Stil amazed no diagnostic (computer codes) or two dealers didn't suggest! (Dad)

I'm all done with mine, wasn't that bad, took the first on back to auto zone(didn't put it in) and went to dealer and got a ac/delco from them, had to get a oil pressure socket to do it, took 10 min tops, will up date in a week if it still dies or runs fine, later.

Let's keep this thread going so others can find it!

Let us all know your results. Thanks for the update bj126821!!!

Guess what my oil pressure switch wasnt bad. I put in the ac delco one and it still stalled out. So i took the bed of my truck off. Hook up my test light to the grey wire that goes to the fuel pump. Electricity was going to the pump when it stalled out. THIS IS WHAT IT WAS. WHEN I SLIGHTLY MOVED THE PLUG THAT GIVES THE PUMP ITS VOLTAGE THE ENGINE SPUTTERED. I LOOKED AT THE PLUG AND THE PIN INSIDE THE PLUG WAS NOT CENTERED. I CENTERED IT AND MY TRUCK IS RUNNING PERFECT. I LET IT SiT AND RUN FOR 1 HOUR TO BE SURE, And drove it to work the next day.

EVERYONE PLEASE CHECK THE SAME THING I DID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PICTURE OF MY RIDE AT:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=479407&cat=25&val=1

Thanks for the help!!!!!!!

Well today I had the fuel pump cutoff switch/coolant sensor replaced. Thanks very much for the suggestion. I hope this is the end of my problems and will keep ya'll updated should anything happen.

Joshua

HHhhuumm... Welp the way u describe it I would say it sounds like a Pick up Module in the Distributor. Next time problem happens be sure to check for #1 Spark #2 Fuel And I'm sure # 3 Compression wont be a problem bein that the beast actually runs lol. but it wouldnt hurt to check. It's a typical Chevy problem, as far as that goes fer just about any car.. Good Luck

The 4cylinder engine in a s10 doent have a distributor. It has two coil packs

Gentleman, I am here to report that after replacing the oil pressure switch last friday feb 19th, I have NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT RANDOMLY QUITTING!!!!! it start right up in the morning, runs fine all day and starts up at night and drives home with out a problem!!!!! xtremetrk you are the MAN!
So,,,if anyone else out there is having the same symptoms as described earlier in this thread, replace the oil pressure switch FIRST, then if that doesn't help, ask for help.

And a quick BUMP out to NovaRod for pointing me in the right direction!

Seems like we got it nailed!! I really appreciate everyone who stepped up to describe the problem and possible solutions. Once xtremetrk had described the oil pressure switch, it looked like a slam dunk. This is definitely the FIRST thing to do with this problem. It's easy, and not too expensive.

Since i fixed the problem , remember you said back in your earlier posts that you would give a prize to who could tell you the problem. Do i get something?

The 4cylinder engine in a s10 doent have a distributor. It has two coil packs


Well then it has a Module under the coil pack or mouted nearby dont it lol... (2.2 2.5 2.8) 3 of the worst Chevy motors known to man lol

The module may be a good call as I've heard about this in other posts, but I'd rather replace the oil pressure switch first because it's much cheaper and I believe it's a higher fix priority.

Well then it has a Module under the coil pack or mouted nearby dont it lol... (2.2 2.5 2.8) 3 of the worst Chevy motors known to man lol


Ive tryed every thing but the oil pressure thing. I will get the part tonight. I tried the coil packs and the control mod they worked for 10 mins and this morning left me stranded. Ill reply it the oil sensor works.
Thaks every one this problme has been driving me CRAZY!!!!!!!!

Ok guy I just got off the phone with chevy They told me that it cant be the oil pressure witch on the 2.2 because there is not fuel pump cut off switch. Wich confused me cause my oil pressure gauge hassnt been working. They said that the 6cl has the oil and the fuel hooked together but the oil is seprate on the 2.2 and would have nothing to do with the fuel. They did suggest to check the fuel pressure. Ill keep every one updated when I find somthing out.

ndsysv, you gotta think that if you were in an accident and the engine quit, would you want the fuel pump to keep pumping? If that were the case, what causes the fuel pump to shut down when the engine quits?

I had a 110 GPH electric fuel pump from Holley that I put on my 74 Corvette. The instructions were clear to tie it in with the oil pressure switch so not to leave it running when the engine cut off (i.e. engine off, no oil pressure, therefore no fuel pump operation).

I still think there's something to the oil pressure switch, but you may have a very valid point. Thanks for the update. It has me thinking again!

I really think this has got to have a common source because of all the S10 owners having this problem (although I maintain an open mind).

I really appreciate the posts as we are starting to get to the bottom of it.

Possible fixes:
1- Oil Pressure Switch
2- Wiring on the fuel pump
3- Coil pack/ECM
4- Fuel Pump
5- Fuseable Links
6- Ignition Switch
7- Crank Trigger
8- Injectors
9- Fuel Filter (good call on this! Causes strange problems on an EFI engine)
10- Bad gas
11- Clutch safety switch
12- Low oil pressure
13- Fuel pressure
14- Possibly other electrical problems that deal with Relays/ignition, etc.

I'd like to see a schematic of the electrical wiring as it deals with ignition and fuel delivery.

NDSYS, take it from someone who had his truck towed 4 times to the dealers and they couldn't figure it out, get a factory oil pressure switch and oil pressure switch socket and change ot out your self, I'm going on 2 weeks and my 2.2 is running fine, no stalling, quiting or acting up and it starts right up every time.

Well wendsday I ended up taking it to my mechanic finaly. I asked him about the oil pressure switch as well and he said not on your truck, only the older ones or the v6 engine. So I left it there and to let him take a look at it and he said it the security system acting up. and that I should shut my door and lock then unlock it and it should start. Well I wasnt very satisfied with that answer even though I did have a security light flashing on my dash. So he had another look and it seems that the person who had my truck before me had an alarm. Well that person removed all evidence of the alarm except the computer and a swich all under the dash we used the switch to reset the alarm and the truck started right up. so mabey my truck just had a differnt problme but Im still a lil nervose about it. But if you have a 98 and up try the lock unlock thing. Its worth a shot I guess. Im not one for fixing new cars and trucks these computers make it a lil difficult. Ill keep every one posted If my truck stars acting up again.

Well I take back everything I said earlier, my strck died on the way home from work last night, cranked it off and on for 5 to 10 min with nothing then it fired up and I drove it home with out a problem, then I got in it this morning and it wouldn't start, I noticed the volts were around 10 to 11 on the meter, about 8 min late it started up and ran fine. So I guess I'm back at square 1!! HELP!!!!!! before I do something to this truck that involves a train of high cliff!

Is there anything in the altenator that could cause this????

does any one know what the resistence reading should be on the fuel injectors for this 2.2 engine???

Did you guys even try to look at your connection near your fuel pump. I had a bad connection at the fuel pump and the grey wire is the 12 volts that goes to the pump. Connect the test light to the wire while its plugged into your fuel pump(strip wire) when you go to turn the key to on, does it light up? If so and you cant hear the pump you have a bad pump. A good way of kick starting your pumps is to hit your gas tank with a rubber hammer under the pump location. Ever since i fixed that problem its been running fine and its been 3 weeks. I dont know why some of these other people are replacing coil packs and spark plugs when they dont even know the problem. Its not worth spending all that money to replace everything when it could be a lousy connection. CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS!!!!!!

I agree with xtremetrk. Time to check the wires. He got a solid fix with that and the only thing it cost him was some sweat and time.

Ok my "trusty" truck is messing up again. Dose any one else have thier oil gauge messed up? how about that gay securty light that im not even sure does any thing. I m gonna have a look at it tonight can you see that wire for the fuel pump from under the truck? We gotta figure this out im gonna go nuts!! I got one of those repair books for it but I havent started looking at it yet. Keep me posted!!!

that repair manual had some useful info but wont help you. I bought it but it doesnt supply enough information.

Ok well I guess my next option is gonna be to replace the fuel pump system. But as you know Its very costly for a 98. But my mechanic said he can put an older year pump on it to save me alot of money. Hes convenced its not a bad conection but Ill have him check that before we put on the new pump. I know alot of people have tryed the fuel pump option but what else can I do??

Im not sure if it is directly or indirectly liked to the securty light on my truck but it has somthing to do with it. My truck will somtimes start after ten minutes but some times it wont. regarless the security light will be flashing while the battery is on. so I called chevy and they said leave the key forward for 10 minutes and it will reset the security system. And after turning the key a few times it fires right up. BUT they told me this means somthing is going out and you need a speacial reader to get the codes for that light. witch im guessing chevy will be one of the only places with one. But basicly Im still at square one. I really dont want to put in a new pump so im holding off for as long as possible. I dont really know what in talking about so correct me if im wrong. Im thinking about just throwing in a v8 and blowing up this lil 2.2.

My truck is still acting up, I CAN hear the fuel pump whiring after I stop cranking, I cranked it off and on today for 2 and a half hours and nothing, towed it to the dealer and the darn thing started!!!!!!!!!!!!
no codes ( made them hook it up to the computer) this week-end I'm going over every inch of wire in the engine compartment,,,wish me luck!

My truck is still acting up, I CAN hear the fuel pump whiring after I stop cranking, I cranked it off and on today for 2 and a half hours and nothing, towed it to the dealer and the darn thing started!!!!!!!!!!!!
no codes ( made them hook it up to the computer) this week-end I'm going over every inch of wire in the engine compartment,,,wish me luck!

Hi All...

This certainly is a frustrating situation!!! I am having basically the same problem and I too am lost! My 1987 s-10 2.8ltr V-6 starts and runs fine 'UNTIL' it warms up. As soon as it does it's all over but the cryin'.
When it runs long enough to hit that 'NORMAL' operating temp. the fuel shuts down and it will not start. I have had to have this sucker towed 3 times in 1 week.... (thank god for AAA).... When DEAD it still has spark.
It's like the thing thinks it's overheated but it's not 'HOT'. After it sits
awhile..... COLD.... it starts right back up and runs fine again 'UNTIL'...
Well... You know the scenario...

Here's what I have done (so far) to try to rectify the problem:

CHECKED:
1. Wiring and all plugs and connectors to fuel pump/tank etc.
2. All other plugs and connections under the hood

REPLACED:
1. OIL/FUEL SENSOR/SWITCH
2. FUEL PUMP
3. FUEL STRAINER
4. FUEL FILTER

JUST PRIOR REPLACED:(not necessarily related)
1. ALTERNATOR
2. ALTERNATOR BRACKET
3. SERPANTINE BELT TENSIONER
4. SERPANTINE BELT

6 MONTHS PRIOR REPLACED:
1. BATTERY
2. BATTERY CABLES
3. WATER TEMP SENDING UNIT
(NOTE) When I replaced the temp sending unit my temp guage had pegged but the truck was not overheated. I replaced the sending
unit but the guage still pegged. Truck still ran fine though and later
I discovered that there was a direct short in the wire that goes to
the sensor. I repaired the short and all was fine again but at NO TIME
did the short affect the running of the truck. The reason that I mention all of this about the sensor is because I don't understand the fact that
if the sending unit/sensor is supposed to tell the ECM(?) to stop the
engine if it senses a problem then why didn't the short affect the
running of the truck?

Good luck to all of you AND ME on resolving this as I too am REAL
FRUSTRATED!!! Thanks for all of the info that everyone has posted.

Dave

I started by cleaning the battery cables and the wire going from the ground side to the frame and it has been starting every day for the last 3 weeks, no stalls, no bucks no sputters. So far so good.

hmmmm.....

New prob.
Replaced ignition module and MAP sensor today.
Now NO FUEL from injectors.

What a pain!

Well about a month after replacing the oil pressure switch, I have problems starting my 1996 truck again. None of the symptoms are any different. Twice in 2 weeks it has taken a half hour to start since the first try. Only good things are that it hasn't yet quit while running (knock on wood) and warmer weather is coming. Its quite rare for me to have a problem with after mid April until the Fall.

Joshua

Okay All Concerned Individuals......

I, personally, find it kinda hard to believe but it's true! Somewhere
I read a short message about injectors not working and almost
shined it on. Thank god that I did not! I actually tried what I am about
to tell you and it solved my problem.

The message that I read told a guy to replace the ignition module
(located inside the distributor on the 1987 S-10) because it was
the cause of his injectors (Throttle Body Injection) not working.
Well, I thought, what in the heck does the stinkin' distributor have
to do with the injectors on a carburator not spraying (atomizing)
the gas??? So, what the deal 'IS' that this IGNITION MODULE sends
a signal to the ECM/PCM (brain) and tells it 'Okay, we have spark
now shoot the fuel into the carburator'. So.... If the ignition module
isn't sending that signal, even though you are getting SPARK it
isn't going to run because NO FUEL. So basically, with my S-10,
what was happening was when the ignition module was COLD it
worked enough to start the truck and then when the engine warmed
up the module OVERHEATED and the ECM/PCM lost the SEND THE
FUEL SIGNAL and Walah!!! Dead truck! As soon as it cooled off the
module would send the signal again.

By the way.... in a previous message where I said that I had
replaced the Ignition Module but then my injectors quit working
was caused by mechanic error (ME). When I plugged the connectors
on the new module I missed one. That's because the distributor
is right up against the firewall and it's real hard to see back there.

Thanks for the input and all the info in this thread. It has been a great
help and I have learned alot from all of you!

Dave

Just a quick P.S.

I think that I know WHY the module failed (MAYBE)....
I had replaced the ALTERNATOR just prior to this
ignition module problem so I think what happened was
the module (which was an original part) was on it's way out
already and maybe the new fresh alternator caused a bit more
power to go through the system and perhaps pushed the
module over the edge... Just a theory...

Thanks Again!
Dave

I had a 89 chevy caprice and it did the same thing and the fix for it was a new fuel pump the check vaulve had gon bad. I found a good shop that changed it for 85 dollars but I have come to believe that that was aful cheap.

check vaulve is bad replace your fuel pump

Hi all

Been having the s a m e problem with my 86 IROC Camaro!....weird huh?
My have to replace my oil gauge, it has false readings (too High). I am suspecting the fuel pump is also acting up as the last reply mentioned.

Does this happen to anybody at a take off after about 10 to 15 minutes of driving? My blazer cuts off at take from a light. No codes are present, just a 12 code. I wait stalled for about 10 seconds and it starts up again. I then hammer the gas at take off to get me out of the intersection. This is an everyday occurance and i'm at my wits end. I've replaced the egr, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and it still does it. I think that maybe from what you guys are saying, that it's tied in to my oil pressure switch. My oil pressure guage reads zero pressure. It's been reading that for some time. Also, I'm debating about changing out the MAP sensor because the sputtering and stalling only happens at take off. voltage change/ pressure change/ manifold. Jeez...I'm in desperate need of serious help. I'll also pitch in for a prize if somebody had a sure fire fix on this.

i have an 87 s10 with the same problem. new filter,pump,injector and grounds. can not figure out why i can drive it for 2 days w/out problems and boom 1 day dead... next two no problem... well u get point. :disappoin :banghead: :cya:

i have a 2000 2.2 with the same problem. It started after i installed a new fuel pump. I can drive for about 15 min with no problem then it just starts sputtering and dies. Starts up after about 10 seconds. after it dies the firts time i cant drive more than a mile without it dieing again. here goes the list of all the stuff i have replaced since the fuel pump:
1. fuel pump plug
2. fuel filter
3. ECM module
4. gas cap
5. oil pressure switch
6. ran gas cleaner and premium fuel
7. checked the wires to verify connection was fine.

My check engine light doesnt come on all the time. When i took it to auto zone to get the codes read they said it was my gas cap. That didnt make any sense but i replaced it. I still cannot get this problem fixed Im trying to sell my truck very soon and this is the last thing i have to do to it. I dont thing anyone is gonna buy a truck that only runs for 15 min...