accord iacv valve idle surge up down

I pulled a code 14 which was the iacv valve. I replaced it with one of my firends accord which he is selling and that did not have an error code so I changed it and when I replaced it my idle was still going up and down and still pulling up the code 14. It is not as bad but it does do it. I erased the codes by pulling out the fuses for a minute but no luck. Can this iacv be cleaned, worked on Etc., I am not planning to buy another and have the same problem. Can it be the fast idle valve next to the iacv. Help me out. I have a 90 accord ex.

humm....it should be directly related to the IAC....check the connection....maybe perhaps that the connection to the IAC isnt good at all...that might be where your problem is.

i know that part is expensive, how much was that part by any chance....

for anyone wondering...

http://www.angelfire.com/ex2/accordztech/IAC.jpg

if not then i got alot more ways to fiqure it out..but if the code says IAC then it has to be the IAC

have u tried putting urs that was "damaged" on ur friends car to see if it threw a code?

If you have a 1990 Accord EX, as I do, the IAC valve will be in a different place than indicated in the picture. The picture I'm guessing is a 5th gen (maybe?) accord. Whichever year it is, it's newer than what you have, so the IAC valve is to the right of the plenum (sp?). It looks like the fast idle thremo valve that is in this picture (connected to the front-right of the plenum, to the right of the IAC), except it's connected on the end, to the right. I would take a picture of mine to show ya, but it's dark here and I don't really wanna mess with it this late at nite.

And yes I agree, it just might be the connection. That's what it sounds like.

i thought the only difference between a 1991 and a 1990 is mainly engine type...a1/a4...

that pic is from a f22a4...my engine 4th gen 1991 honda accord ex.
some models differ with the IAB...that i do not have....which is intake air bypass

show a pic of your engine, im courious...get a drop light, light up the area and snap it haha

the part cost 200.00 new. The engine is just like the one I have. They are almost identical 90 to 93. It is just that this engine looks really clean. The connection seems good fits tight and there is no corrosion. What about cleaning it b/c I know this part gets dirty and there is carbon backed up in these valves. I see screws for it to be opened at the bottom. has anyone done it with sucess.

you can clean it out...just unbolt it...and then get a q-tip and spray some throttle body cleaner on it and rub on the screen....

have you tested the connection for voltage?

i have cleaned the iac....but only to a certain extent...i think the bolts at the bottom are for cooling coolant or something, cause when i feel the lines its really hot....so i think coolant is going through there somehow or something else...

did you try your old one on his car? do that first...if it works then you know it has to be something else.

I put the iacv valve back in my friends car and drove it for 15 min over 30mph and no codes were set of so I know I can rule out the valve being the problem. I will check the connection for voltage but if I do not get voltage what part of the connection needs to be replaced(fuse, connection piece itself, ecu problems) main question is now I know what to rule out(the valve) what might need to be replaced?

help me out

heh good question, here is what you do.

if at the socket you have no voltage or the voltage fluxuates alot...then strip the wire before it a little and test for voltage there. if its good there and not at the clip, then you know you have to replace the clip.

test for voltage before and after the clip....

put the car in accesory, but dont turn it on, i believe that will activate the iac...

you have mail in 5 minutes

thanks I will try that

DONT CUT TOO CLOSE TO THE CLIP!!!!!!!!!!!

if u do ur screwed in trying to put it back...try just to splice the wire and not cut it...so at least u dont have ghetto reconnections...give urself some leway aiite?

humm....it should be directly related to the IAC....check the connection....maybe perhaps that the connection to the IAC isnt good at all...that might be where your problem is.

i know that part is expensive, how much was that part by any chance....

for anyone wondering...



if not then i got alot more ways to fiqure it out..but if the code says IAC then it has to be the IAC

have u tried putting urs that was "damaged" on ur friends car to see if it threw a code?



Hello, my 90 Ex accord check light comes out once awhile. Whenever the engine check comes out, whole car shakes. When I turn on my headlights and my A/c, the engine even worst.
And then, whenever my first start in the early morning, if the engine light still stay on after I turning on the key and get ready to start, the engine will not burn after I turn the key. HOwever, I don't have any problem to turn on the engine if the engine is warmed up evem though the engine light stays on before I start. What would be my problem???

diagnose the code. perhaps it can be the electronic load sensor.

check the codes by finding the blue 2 pin in the kick pannel of the passenger side....jump it with a wire and then look at the check engine light to see how many blinks there are. you will see a long blink, then short blinks maybe...count and describe to me. do this with the ACC on...

I jumped the wire and the s light flashed 1 time and 4 small flashes. I looked at the ecu and saw the same code. idle was real shotty and I changed the iacv twice and the 2nd time I got a new one but I still get this error code. I tested the wire for voltage and it is fine, I reseted the ecu and still this code comes up with the s light not check engine. What can it be? I am really trying to hook my car up now, just got a muffler, car sound high flow cat, and a k&n cnne intake and much more to come

code 14

14
Idle Control System Malfunction
Defective IAC valve, defective fast idle thermo valve, throttle body

check the other stuff...check the pvc for leaks, plug it to see if the idle stops

I changed the iac fast idle and throttle body. I have triple of all these parts. I also brought off a friend a complete intake manifold with the egr and all sensors on it for only 35.00 I changed every valve twice for the hell of it. I changed the pcv valve and cleaned the hose. I am not complaining anymore b/c my idle is fine now but I still see the code and my gas mileage is horrible. I am still stumped by this. thanks for your help accordztech

so if its fine then thats good.

lets reset your ecu. now if u haev a stock deck with a code, we will have to find a way around this. cuase cutting power off will render u to put a code in if u dont have it.

ok there are 2 ways to do this. one u can warm up the car and let the car idle and warm up. then roll down the drivers window and then turn off the car.

then go to the fuse box in the engine and take out these fuses:

7.5 backup
10 ECU
10 Hazard

some people say that u only need to take one of them out, but shit id take em all out to be sure to erase the codes from memory.

leave them out for a little longer than 1 minute.

then put them all back in in the right spots!!

start your car with your door closed. this is because the system now has been reseted and opening the door will cause the power seatbelt to go up and down and not really rurin the ecu but u want the ecu to start fresh.

so start the sucker up and DONT TOUCH THE GAS OR ANYTHING for at least 10 minutes. i let my car idle for about 15 minutes just for the hell of it.

after that is done, turn off the car let it sit for a minute then start the car let it idle, reset ur clock and ur radio and crap and then go for a drive NORMALLY....the ecu will learn the new settings in the engine when it was idleing and hten now will learn where you shift in the next 100 miles.

if the code comes back, then we'd have to pinpoint it again....if it comes back just check to see if it is the same one. lets hope it doesnt.

good luck.

o make sure u have that plug for the IAC in, sometimes people forget about that.

My problem on 91 SE was the fast idle thermo valve. 90 bucks at the dealership.

my 95 prelude vtec has been having idle surges. when i first start the car when the engine is cold the car surges from 800 to about 2000 back and forth until the engine heats up all the way. it will stay steady when am going down the road at a constant speed but as soon as i push in the clutch and put the engine in neutral it starts surging again. for a while it only did this until the engine heated up. when the weather got cold a while back the car didnt stop surging even when the engine heated up good. now it has gone back to just doing it while the engine is cold. i replaced the idle control valve brand new from the dealer and it didnt fix the problem. i have checked the vacuum lines and there are no leaks. it seems like it would have to be some sort of valve and not a wire connection because it stops now when the engine is good and hot. any suggestions?

it must be your fast idle valve--first look to see if your antifreeze is filled to the right level than make sure you also have a thermostat and it works good. If not that than look in replacing that part right next to the idle air control valve.