'85 Pontiac 6000 STE (Help me PLEASE)

Please help me. My '85 Pontiac 6000 STE keeps stalling on me. It only does it if it's up to normal operating temperature. I have replaced the fuel pump, the alternator, the wires going from the starter to their respective areas, and the battery cables. Before I bought this alternator (I have gone through three trying to find one that actually worked) the others would actually take power from the battery, untill it stalled. It isn't doing that anymore but it is still stalling. The wiring throughout my car is kind of mickey moused together. The OBD or on board diagnostics terminal gave me a code 24 which is the vehicle speed sensor or circuit. I haven't been able to drive it so I have no way of telling if it is a false code or not. It is getting too expensive to keep trying things and then finding out that it might have been a part of the problem, but it still wants to stall. My dad and I think that it might be a fuel problem, but I would really appreciate any input that anyone could give. Thanks

clean out the throttle body it's probably clogged with gunk

clean out the throttle body it's probably clogged with gunk
hi you can check your spark plugs of your fuel fliter ok
lucas

It stalls when you are driving it? or when you let it sit and idle ? i Or when you slow down ? As soon as it is put in gear ? AT transimission ? Overdrive or not ? Is that fuel injected ?Answer these questions I'll give you the 411 (or is that 911?)
:)

Code 24 will cause the torque converter clutch to malfunction and cause a stall after driving at cruising speeds when you come to a stop (automatic trans). It's like stalling the car in high gear when ya stop.
Take the TCC fuse out and see if it still does it if this is the case.
The VSS is inline on the speedo cable right behind the speedometer-ya gotta pull the cluster to get to it.
Other than that-check your MAP sensor-it controls ignition timing and fuel delivery-check the vacuum lines going to it and check all your ignition/ECM grounds (usually on the backside of the engine block). Negative battery cable goes here too.
If ya got bad or non-spec wiring-that'll cause ya troubles.
Could be an intermittent open circuit caused every time the engine torques (moves a bit).
I had an '86 Chevy S10 that drove me nuts for a year til I found a broken negative wire to the ignition coil that would work when the engine was idling and then disconnect when I stepped on the gas or hit a bump and the wire moved a bit one way.

this car has a 2.8 liter fuel injected engine. i cant get the coil to spark for nothing. the crank position sensor or cam position sensor is what send the signal to the ECM to spark the ignition and fire the injectors correct. the where does the ECM get its signal from on this engine, it has no CKP sensor or CMP sensor. The guy has either changed or had some one change the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, ignition switch, a brand new distributor, pick up coil, ignition module, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires and coil. and a few other things, MAF sensor, PCV valve, starter, looks like he as changed all the parts connected to the ignition system. still no go. i looked all over the motor i cant see any leads that may go to a CKP sensor, or CMP sensor and the local parts stores dont have a listing for either of these. i have fuel, because after spinning the motor over and pulling one of the plugs out i can see that it has fuel on it, and when you push the shreader valve on the fuel rail it spits out fuel. my fuel pressure testor has a leak and will not hold pressure so i have no idea how much pressure its actually getting it goes to 10lbs and then drops to zero when i turn the key on. i used a spark testor connected to the coil wire and i get no sparks at all.

Be sure the spark tester is grounded well.
Are you getting 12 Volts to the coil when ignition is in the 'on' position ? Also does your check engine light light up BEFORE you try to start it ? Or can you pull diognostic codes out ?

Does it even try to start once in a while (like it might want to) if it does then you are getting some spark-

You don't have a crank or cam sensor it uses the distributor for the timing jobs.

the tester was grounded to the negitive post on the battery first, no spark there so i moved it to one of the bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster, still not spark. will not even try to start. which two wires do i test for 12 volts at the coil, there is a grey two pin connector and a black two pin connector, the grey and black connectors interlock. i dont remember what color the wires are. but im pretty sure im not getting 12 volts, i swapped the coil out with a good test coil which is basically a new coil that we just took out of the package and put on the shelf and wrote "TEST" on it. i have tried it and many other cars and its worked when it had voltage going to it.

one wire should have 12 volt when igniton is on just unplug the coil and ground one test lead and touch the wires of the plug one at a time - I think it is the black plug- do you have any codes stored ? Other wise check the module again that is probably it -if thats bad = no spark

i have no codes stored, the ignition module is brand new, but that doesnt mean its not bad. what happens if i have no voltage going to the coil, where does the voltage come from.

should be wired directly in line with the ignition switch - could be a broken wire, fuseable link , bad connec tor plug ? Start there - Don't you have a manual that instructs you what to check if you have a 'no start' condition ?
PS cheap ignition module asre cheap for a reason-

also if you ran the car with no dielectric grease on the back of the module I can gurantee it's bad now-

the only code you get is 'code 12' correct ?

EMAIL me I have a flow chart for you to print out I sent my Email address to ya

ill check the wiring from the switch to the coil. code 12 is all i have. here is the deal, the car came into the shop on a wrecker, every part had been changed, the car still wouldnt start. so they brought it to me because some how i got the label of electrical genious, now im chasing wireing problems every day, what fun. the boss will not order any parts or repair manuals as these cost money and he is a tight ass, or he thinks i should be able to figure it out without help i dont know. thanks for the help. what i really need is a wiring diagram for the ignition system that shows all connections related to ignition and fuel systems.

Being an 85, your car should still have a distributor. Check the ignition module and pick-up coil in the distributor

I have fixed the car already, i installed a reman. distributor the magnet at the top of the dis shaft had exploded, the pick up coil melted or rusted to the shaft causing a short and this knocked out the ign module and a fuse. The customer installed the fuel pump himself and there are two fuel pumps for this car, one fuel injected and one carbirated. he put the carbirated fuel pump in the car and thats why i only had 15 lbs of fuel pressure. i changed the dis and fuel pump and it runs like a wore out engine should run, maybe better. thanks for the help guys. i appreciate it a lot. that one had me stumped but in the end it was an easy fix i just over thought it.