2001 Impala Ignition/Starting problems

Maybe someone is familiar with this problem.

Once in a while my Impala refuses to start. Nothing happens when I turn the key. This happened about three times in the last 6 months. If I give it a little time it will then start. We thought it was the starter so we got a new once from Chevy and the same thing still happens. The battery is fully charged and the connections are clean and stable. I took it in to my mechanic and he told me that it's a mechanism in the ignition that causes the car to turn over without fully turning the key. I plan on selling the car but would like to resolve the problem before the next man is stuck with it. Nor do I want to take it to the Chevy dealership where they will charge me an arm and a leg just to look it over. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

I have replaced quite a few ignition switches on those model cars for intermittant no-start complaints.

At the dealer I work for we would only charge you an arm and a few fingers.....At my shop I would charge you a little less than an arm :)

Thanks. I guess I could spare a few fingers.

Below was a comment on another forum regarding this problem. Which makes sense because the security message comes on every so often when starting the car. Any thoughts?


There is a relay that is controlled by the PCM. It's not like the old days when the ignition switch just sent power directly to the starter solenoid. Possibly a problem with the theft deterrent system. We see that frequently. Also, the BCM is involved in the theft deterrent and BCMs are a known problem on the Impala/Monte Carlo.
It really helps to have a scanner to look at inputs and outputs so you can tell what may be going on. Otherwise, you're just going to be doing a lot of guessing and replacing parts and not fixing the problem.

Plenty of thoughts..you left out the little tid-bit about the security light in your original post.
Pulling the trouble codes is a definate. there are also some parameters you can watch with a scan tool in regards to theft deterent.
The starter does have a relay in the underhood electrical center which the PCM controls the ground side of the relay.
An improper or invalid reading from the passlock sensor can prevent the starter relay from engaging and also disable fuel enable.
Most intermittant starting and passlock problems that I have seen, have been narrowed down to problems with the passlock sensor and the ignition switch. I have replaced a couple BCMs for the same problem.
Diagnosis is a must to insure proper repairs and customer satisfaction and in no way would I suggest just throwing a part at a problem in the hopes of fixing it.

Thanks for the comments. It's all beginning to make sense now. I'll see what the mechanic can do, hopefully their familiar with this problem over at the Chevy dealership. Thanks again

Thanks for the comments. It's all beginning to make sense now. I'll see what the mechanic can do, hopefully their familiar with this problem over at the Chevy dealership. Thanks again

Did you take your car to the dealership? What was the diagnosis? I have a 2002 Impala with some of the same symptoms. When I tried to start the car by turning the key to the start position, there would sometimes be about a second delay before the car started. Also the fuse on the automatic door locks kept blowing out and the security light would come on.

I took my car to the Chevrolet dealership, twice. The first time they replaced a passlock sensor and that did not fix the problem. The second time they said that my after-market alarm system was causing a conflict with the passlock system and that I needed to disconnect it and replace the control module. I did that and it seems to have corrected the problem.

I am currious if the after-market alarm could be the cause and why it took over a year and 38,000 miles for it to start giving me problems.

Did you take your car to the dealership? What was the diagnosis? I have a 2002 Impala with some of the same symptoms. When I tried to start the car by turning the key to the start position, there would sometimes be about a second delay before the car started. Also the fuse on the automatic door locks kept blowing out and the security light would come on.

I took my car to the Chevrolet dealership, twice. The first time they replaced a passlock sensor and that did not fix the problem. The second time they said that my after-market alarm system was causing a conflict with the passlock system and that I needed to disconnect it and replace the control module. I did that and it seems to have corrected the problem.

I am currious if the after-market alarm could be the cause and why it took over a year and 38,000 miles for it to start giving me problems.

The aftermarket alarm would not be the cause with the factory "security" light to come on. Now, if you have remote start too, then yes it COULD have been the culprit. Some of the Passlock interfaces used to get the vehicles to remotely start can go bad just like any electronic part. It's just not very likely but I have seen it.

Hey Guys I am new here but I post a lot on other forums. This time my sisters impala will start sometimes and other times it won't. Not turning over no clicking, nothing. I would like to know where to start. I am pretty sure it's not the starter because when it does start it has no hesitation and no wierd noises. Should I take it to get a diagnostic check from a dealer? If it's one of these modules you speak of, how hard are they to change. I am somewhat mechanically inclined(i have changed motors and tranny's on older small block Chevy's, and most recently I replaced my hydrolics and clutch on my 2000 Camaro SS) so I am pretty sure I can handle it. I just need a push in the right direction. Thanks for the help.

What's the estimated cost of replacing the ignition passlock system. I recently started having problems with mine. I also have a remote start system that maybe be causing the problem so i'm going to get that checked out before I pay for those costly repairs. One dealership quoted a repair cost of $430. Does that sound right?

Showtime305

What's the estimated cost of replacing the ignition passlock system. I recently started having problems with mine. I also have a remote start system that maybe be causing the problem so i'm going to get that checked out before I pay for those costly repairs. One dealership quoted a repair cost of $430. Does that sound right?

Showtime305

To be totally honest, the dealer I work for has been taking a hard look at Passlock problems and remote starters and aftermarket alarm installations..It seems that we are getting slammed with Passlock problems and 90% of those have some sort of aftermarket system installed....Pretty much, we aren't touching them until the system is put back into factory condition (especially with warranty concerns).
Here is the deal, since I do a lot of these vehicles..
The operating systems on these vehicles use low voltage circuits as data and reference. Any disruption in the flow of electrons will cause problems.
A good number of systems that are installed use wirenuts,scotch locks and cheap butt connectors to hook the system wiring into the voltage sensitive wiring to the factory componants (especially to the PCM and BCM).
When the integrity of the wire is compromised by non-approved methods, this creates a voltage drop across the connector. The module is looking for a pre determined voltage change from the data sensor..if the voltage change is different than desired, then the module disables the system..(the module thinks someone is stealing your car!)
The car manufactors have developed certain wire repair techniques to prevent unwanted voltage drops on critical circuits.
These are the only approved methods and all GM techs that are involved with wiring repairs should be trained on the procedures.

To be totally honest, the dealer I work for has been taking a hard look at Passlock problems and remote starters and aftermarket alarm installations..It seems that we are getting slammed with Passlock problems and 90% of those have some sort of aftermarket system installed....Pretty much, we aren't touching them until the system is put back into factory condition (especially with warranty concerns).
Here is the deal, since I do a lot of these vehicles..
The operating systems on these vehicles use low voltage circuits as data and reference. Any disruption in the flow of electrons will cause problems.
A good number of systems that are installed use wirenuts,scotch locks and cheap butt connectors to hook the system wiring into the voltage sensitive wiring to the factory componants (especially to the PCM and BCM).
When the integrity of the wire is compromised by non-approved methods, this creates a voltage drop across the connector. The module is looking for a pre determined voltage change from the data sensor..if the voltage change is different than desired, then the module disables the system..(the module thinks someone is stealing your car!)
The car manufactors have developed certain wire repair techniques to prevent unwanted voltage drops on critical circuits.
These are the only approved methods and all GM techs that are involved with wiring repairs should be trained on the procedures.

Well, then there's me. I am on the other side of the fence. I am one who installs these remote starts for a living. I too have seen a high failure rate with Passlocks for some reason. Now, I use DEI remote starts which is part of GM's AC Delco. At first, I was soldering and shrink wraping everything. Then, I started to get people comming back saying they had no start conditions. So, I would go back in and take everyrthing out. They'd go round and round with the dealer and usually would end up having the Passlock system or parts of it replaced.

Because of my having to take these out and put them back in, I started just using 3m t-taps and barrel connectors. Funny thing is that I haven't noticed any more problems than what I had before. Luckily, I work inhouse at many dealerships and talk with a lot of the techs there. Those dealers that I willing to understand how my systems work then are more open minded on how to fix this problem.

This sort of problem is just made worse when you have a remote start for the most part. It is always easy to lay blame on any nonoriginal part that is in the vehicle. The is especially true with an OEM system that has so many faults of its own. Just in a short time Gm has went from Passlock 1, 2, and now #3. All revisions were made because of no start conditions.

Well, then there's me. I am on the other side of the fence. I am one who installs these remote starts for a living. I too have seen a high failure rate with Passlocks for some reason. Now, I use DEI remote starts which is part of GM's AC Delco. At first, I was soldering and shrink wraping everything. Then, I started to get people comming back saying they had no start conditions. So, I would go back in and take everyrthing out. They'd go round and round with the dealer and usually would end up having the Passlock system or parts of it replaced.

Because of my having to take these out and put them back in, I started just using 3m t-taps and barrel connectors. Funny thing is that I haven't noticed any more problems than what I had before. Luckily, I work inhouse at many dealerships and talk with a lot of the techs there. Those dealers that I willing to understand how my systems work then are more open minded on how to fix this problem.

This sort of problem is just made worse when you have a remote start for the most part. It is always easy to lay blame on any nonoriginal part that is in the vehicle. The is especially true with an OEM system that has so many faults of its own. Just in a short time Gm has went from Passlock 1, 2, and now #3. All revisions were made because of no start conditions.

Dude, you and I have gone around about this before. I respect your opinion and you definately know your stuff in regards to the aftermarket installation field.
I will not argue with the fact that there are problems with the GM passlock system..the fact is, most of the complaints I see both at work and here in AF concern vehicles that have an aftermarket system installed (with a remote start).
To properly diagnos the problem, the system integrity is important..If GM is going to improve the operating system of Passlock, then they must be able to identify the fault of the system and GM engineering must be able to come up with a resolution.
To do this, the system must be in the original condition as designed.
Revisions have been made due to several reasons and to meet the demand of the public in regards to the desire to prevent their vehicles from becomeing someone elses due to illegal activities.

Like I said earlier, GM operating systems use low voltage,low current data and control circuits. Any fault whether GM or outside induced, that causes a voltage drop on a circuit reeks havoc with the operating system.
Personally, a remote starter is for the lazy..and we wonder why Americans (including myself) are getting fatter and unhealthier..but that is another subject altogather.

Due to the popularity of remote starters, GM has introduced the remote start feature on its 04 Malibu..Hopefully it may cross over to other popular makes.

Personally, a remote starter is for the lazy..and we wonder why Americans (including myself) are getting fatter and unhealthier..but that is another subject altogather.

Due to the popularity of remote starters, GM has introduced the remote start feature on its 04 Malibu..Hopefully it may cross over to other popular makes.

Dog gone it Merlin. This is where I get upset. Gm and all of the other makers should come up with something that can be dealt with. Not some half-butt design that has problems of it's own even before someone like me gets their hands on it. Now, I can't state anything about any one else's mode of install other than mine. I've never had a problem with my remote start on my '01 Silverado, mother-in-laws '02 Rendevous, or my dad's '03 H2 Hummer. I'll even include all the other 100's of cars that I have done. This crap of these crappy designs is enough. Don't even go there about them intregrating all kinds of crap in stereos trying to leave their customers without a choice or the fact they do not let out information on how to repair the vehicles so you can take the car to a private repair shop.

Now, in the last year and a half(out of 10), I've had 2 vehicles that had a no start condition. The one was a '00 Silverado that was very intermittant but more persisant that the next one I will talk about. Anyway, this customer talked about the truck doing this after he tried to remote start. So, I installed a new module and haven't heard anything bad about it even though the original part checked out OK.

The 2nd car was a '02 Grand Am. The owner said called and told me it was getting hard to start. I said that I would look at it. Then she called back and said it wouldn't start at all and that she'd had it towed to this dealer I feared. The reason I feared them was that they always rip out remote starts then charge the snot out of the customer. She later called me and said that they said it was the remote start and she can come pick up the car plus pay $418. She was obviously upset so I asked her if her ignition was replaced under the recall that was sent out recently. She said no so I told her to call the dealer back and tell them about it. They stated that they had no records of a recall. She then made her way to the dealer thinking how she was going to get me to pay for it. Then the dealer said that it was a recalled repair and that there was no charge :banghead: WHAT THE!!!! So, this means that if I hadn't known about the recall and told her, I'd had to foot the bill or get in a spitting match over this.

Besides, remote starts are not for the lazy but for those who choose to be law abiding citizens well around here atleast. It's against the law to leave your car running unattended with the keys in the ignition. Just because there are people who like to have their cars warmed up (or cooled down) makes them lazy? I suppose since I have power locks, power windows, antilock brakes, power steering, (well you get the picture) that makes me real lazy? What does it mean that I work out most every day then???? I think it means that I am a person that welcomes technology and will use it when I see that I can.

I am also aware that GM is trying out the remote starts on their lower end cars. Too bad it's not gonna make it. The range on those is terrible because it is derrived on the old style keyless entries which accept a lot of interferrance and the design of them is funky. Anyone that has a DEI unit from a reputable shop will not like those GM remote starts.

Did you think that DEI/Delco would have made parts availible to dealerships that could in affect put me out of the bizz? I do not think so. :nono:

I also had a recent problem with starting my imapla 2001. i was listening to the radio (for like maybe 20 min max)and it statred to beep on me and then i turned it off then tryed to start and died on me. though it was the batery for shure. then i got a jump and started fine. So i took it in to the dealer because i have been having problems. they said the batery was fine. but i realy took it in for the shifting problem im getting. when i floor it no matter what gear its in it will hang at about 4000 RPM so i have to ease off the gas and then it will shift. I recently went to a transmision place i used to worked at and my mechanic said the trany is fine no slipping no burnt cluches no metal flake in the fluid. so we flushed it and all and still the same problem. he ran the codes but nothing the check engine light would be on. I noticed the last time i floored it the check engine light went on only while the non shifting was going on. Its at the dealer now they said there"mechanic" that need to check it out was off the weekend so its monday now and hoping they will figure it out. my mechanic said it might be a fuel silinoyed or something he said for shure it is something electronical. I also had an electrical problem when driving my blinkers wouldnt work but would come back after i restart my car but this happens not very often. my impala has 58000 miles on it to. Anyone have any idea or have this happen to them? I just listed to sell it to thanx

I had this problem for the first year on my 2000 and then it mysteriously went away!

I stumbled across this forum while researching an issue that I have been having with my Security light coming on from time to time. I too have have occasions where my car would not start when I turn the ignition over, but it has always started on the second try. The Security light comes on sometimes and remains on until the car is turned off. I have not noticed any performance problems, and I do not have any aftermarket parts installed on the car (other than an aftermarket radio). My aftermarket radio is installed with a harness, so I should not have the voltage issues that I have read about.

My concern is that the Security light coming on is going to turn into a real problem sooner or later. I bought the vehicle used with approx 56,000 miles on it. It currently has 78,000k on it, and it looks as if things are going to start going wrong with it. I just recently replaced both front hubs (which I thought was premature), a tie rod end, and my battery had to be replaced also because it leaked badly. Is there anyway I can correct this problem with the security light without having to pay the service charge of a dealer diagnostic?

I have had to put so much money into this car recently that I am hesitant to pay for the diagnostic. Should I continue to ignore it and hope that it will not cause a breakdown? Thanks!

Hello all, I have enjoyed the talk on this post and have a question.
I have a 2001 Impala, and I have also had problems recently with the car having problems starting. I took it to a mechanic, and he said that the alternator was fine, the battery was fine, and that they couldn't reproduce the problem that I was seeing.
So about two weeks later, I see the same thing, but this time the car actually died on me twice at a red light. I thought maybe it had something to do with the heat (Texas), but I don't think that is correct.
I had more problems with it not starting 2 days ago, so I was going to take it in yesterday, but it started fine all day yesterday.
Any ideas?

I haven't installed anything different in the car, so no aftermarket systems or anything.

thanks

I am on the downside of a lease on this car and will not put any more money into it. I ahve had 3 batteries installed since new...(00). Starting problems have been very, very intermittant.

Just recently i have had alot of car problems with my impala. I love my car. It is my first car for me and my husband and our first family car. Now it won't start, the security light comes on and it only starts every now and then. My daughter has a heart condition and when i needed the car the most to take her to a doctors appointment it didn't work. Then when my Father dropped me off after the appointment it worked and then when i went to get the meds i couldn't cause it wouldn't start again. My husband is deployed and i am doing my best to get by without any help. I don't have the money time or patients for this. Does anyone even know what is causing this to happen. I need help and it would be alot of help to get some kind of idea so they don't screw me over when i go in to have it checked

well I just bought a 02 impala ls with 30000 miles. its still under warrenty and I can get anything fixed for free, but my starting problem isnt really with nothing happening or the security light coming on, but sometimes, and only sometimes, it takes a lot longer to start then usual. mostly I can hold the ignition for a one one thoughsand and by then its running. and yet im noticing now, that I do that and its not running, so I hold it longer, and sometimes it starts sometimes not. as of today when starting it, I even heard a little bit of grinding noise, it sounded really nasty. the car is stock, nothing has been changed so it cant be electrical,. is there any commoon mechanical problems with the starting system, and since it does only sometimes happen, if I take it to the dealership, can they really do anything for me or will they look at it, say nothing happened when they looked at it and tell me to fuck off. I know they probably dont like me as it is since ive only had the car for like 10 days and ive taken it into service for a new radio that didnt plan cds, new fog light lens that was collecting water cuz it was craked and little shit that they owed me when I bought it. but it only has about 5000 miles left of manufactuers warrenty and I dont want them to try to tell me to come back when the problem is worse so they can better assess it and for that to be after the warrenty.

To be totally honest, the dealer I work for has been taking a hard look at Passlock problems and remote starters and aftermarket alarm installations..It seems that we are getting slammed with Passlock problems and 90% of those have some sort of aftermarket system installed....Pretty much, we aren't touching them until the system is put back into factory condition (especially with warranty concerns).
Here is the deal, since I do a lot of these vehicles..
The operating systems on these vehicles use low voltage circuits as data and reference. Any disruption in the flow of electrons will cause problems.
A good number of systems that are installed use wirenuts,scotch locks and cheap butt connectors to hook the system wiring into the voltage sensitive wiring to the factory componants (especially to the PCM and BCM).
When the integrity of the wire is compromised by non-approved methods, this creates a voltage drop across the connector. The module is looking for a pre determined voltage change from the data sensor..if the voltage change is different than desired, then the module disables the system..(the module thinks someone is stealing your car!)
The car manufactors have developed certain wire repair techniques to prevent unwanted voltage drops on critical circuits.
These are the only approved methods and all GM techs that are involved with wiring repairs should be trained on the procedures.


so just to make sure. are you talking about anything aftermarket will disrupt the elctrical output or just hooking up new electrical things to the passlock system. because for work I need to install headlight/taillight flashers and a few other auxilery lights. now those will be wired in to only the headlight and taillight wires and swithes. also im sure they dont come with the passlock system but they make fasher systems that plug right into the police paskage impalas, so I dont think it should really affect anything. but you say there is a approved way to install electrical things by gm, what would that be.

can i have my passlock system deactivated so it doesn't work? I really do care if someone steal my car, actually they would be doing me a favor...but with my luck, i'm sure it would be found and i would get my headache back. (Doesn't have onstar). I hate my car, but i'm so far in the hole i have to keep if for another year.....then freedom...whoohooo!!!!!!

Mike

can i have my passlock system deactivated so it doesn't work? I really do care if someone steal my car, actually they would be doing me a favor...but with my luck, i'm sure it would be found and i would get my headache back. (Doesn't have onstar). I hate my car, but i'm so far in the hole i have to keep if for another year.....then freedom...whoohooo!!!!!!

Mike
Nope. I own a shop that specializes in remote starters so you know what kind of problems this has given me. Sad thing is that almost all GM platforms have problems with the passlock system. GM's fix is to completely replace the entire system but that's only a temporary fix because it will happen again. :uhoh:

I have a 2001 Impala with 25,000 miles that has been trouble free, except for the intermediate half shaft lubrication issue. Recently, February 2005, I started having the “no start” problems (i.e. nothing happening when the key is turned). The problem started after replacing the original battery which the positive terminal melted off. I was told by GM that happens sometimes. Since the battery was replaced the no start issue occurred four times about two weeks apart. I replaced the starter because it was making noises, but that did not correct the problem. The car has no aftermarket alarm and it has the original stock radio. The car is used daily and is started many times throughout the day. It seems to finally start after about 5 to 15 minutes with no problem. I have noticed the radio (red light) flashing now more when the problem is occurring. Has anyone determined the exact fix for the problem? The theft deterrent system was mentioned in this forum as a possible problem. Is there a way to reset the anti-theft system without waiting 5 to 15 minutes?

There has got to be a way to bypass this passlock thing.

I have a base 2001 Impala. Replaced the BCM already and the no start crud is still occurring. No remote starter or anything aftermaket.

I just did the "leave the key turned on the on position for 20 minutes" thing and it still won't start. Security light is flashing and everything works but the starter won't even click.
Anyone have any ideas besides another trip to the dealer?

Back in April my no start problem was fixed and has not occurred since then. Steps to correct problem.
1) GM Dealer diagnosed two error codes (power code mismatch and defective ignition switch.
2) to save money dealer cleared codes and I waited for the next occurrence of the no-start in order not to replace several parts.
3) no-start issue occurred when picking car up at dealership and was diagnosed as defective ignition switch.
4) ignition switch was replace about April 7, 2005 and there has been no further no-start issues. I have had three months without a problem. Prior to this the no-start issue would occur about every three weeks.

Hope this helps!

Hey thanks.

How much for the ignition and install, etc.?

Hey thanks.

How much for the ignition and install, etc.?

Someone did it as favor. But I believe it should cost around $300.00-$400.00. Not sure of exact price but the work did seem to solve the problem.

Edit: For whatever reason, the car just started. Given the day, I'll just call it a miracle.



It currently won't start. I turned the key on and let it go for 10 minutes because I read that should "clear" it. The security light still flashes when the key is on however and it still won't start.

Anyone know how to get it going?

I also had a recent problem with starting my imapla 2001. i was listening to the radio (for like maybe 20 min max)and it statred to beep on me and then i turned it off then tryed to start and died on me. though it was the batery for shure. then i got a jump and started fine. So i took it in to the dealer because i have been having problems. they said the batery was fine. but i realy took it in for the shifting problem im getting. when i floor it no matter what gear its in it will hang at about 4000 RPM so i have to ease off the gas and then it will shift. I recently went to a transmision place i used to worked at and my mechanic said the trany is fine no slipping no burnt cluches no metal flake in the fluid. so we flushed it and all and still the same problem. he ran the codes but nothing the check engine light would be on. I noticed the last time i floored it the check engine light went on only while the non shifting was going on. Its at the dealer now they said there"mechanic" that need to check it out was off the weekend so its monday now and hoping they will figure it out. my mechanic said it might be a fuel silinoyed or something he said for shure it is something electronical. I also had an electrical problem when driving my blinkers wouldnt work but would come back after i restart my car but this happens not very often. my impala has 58000 miles on it to. Anyone have any idea or have this happen to them? I just listed to sell it to thanx
My car was doing the same thing. I thought the motor was going to blow, how high the RPM's were getting. I would let off and it would shift. The car had less power and was really pissing me off. I took it it and they told me the CAT was the problem. I had a high performance CAT installed and it ran/runs awesome. Funny no check engine light before the cat and now there is one. CAT is running below threshold level. I am having the same issue with my car not starting. I was shown how to fix the issue for around $70 dollars. I haven't done it yet since it's not giving me any problems. We always wait till it quits.

Hi there... My Wifes car is a 2002 Malibu with no after market anti theft system, but yet we had to replace the passlock ign. switch 2 times already and the 3rd is giving us probs..(btw it does spin over but wont start). Is there any recalls on this or a way to bypass this prob.. she works 50 miles away from home one way and it was lucky its been not starting here at home... any advice or remedy will be gratefully accepted.... Hackin

could be dirty 60 amp fuses in the main electrical block under the hood. To illistrate my point at 40 amps it only takes 0.05 ohms to create a voltage drop of 2 volts. All kinds of wired things can happen to systems when they have that much of a voltage drop between them, especially with the GM VPW system, in it all of the brains (yep there are more than one, my wife's Monte Carlo has 5) alk on this bus, but if one of them is getting 14 volts for it's power and the other is getting 10 volts they may be independantly working fine, but not communicating, this can cause a security light as well. And to make it worse, they may be receiving traffic from time to time, so they dont set a trouble code, but not often enough to keep things from going beserk.

Dude, this thred is almost 2 years old!

I have an 01 impala ls fully loaded. I have had the same exact problems. Every now and then the car would not start, security light on, all electricals still worked. All I do is sort of jiggle the key from on to start quickly and it seems to catch and starts, or i let it sit for a minute and it stars. I have read that it is the passlock system. Thankfully it hasn't happened in a few months. Now my problem is the voltage spikes rapidly on a cold start and gets worse as additional loads are placed on the electrical system. I have a voltage meter built into my pioneer radio that clearly displays it, I have also tested it with a meter. It causes every single light inside and out of the car to flicker. I imagine that it causes droppage in voltage to every thing. This will cause damage to the body control module. There is a Technical Service Bulletin for this exact problem from GM. It is easy to find on the web, problem is only descriptions of the problem are displayed. TSB's are sent out to help dealerships better fix and diagnose very common problems. A lot of the time it is a very cheap easy fix for many TSB's if you can fix it on your own. I managed to obtain the actual TSB print out for the problem with a detailed diagram of the alternator, how to fix it, and a gm part number . Problem was apparently the alternator in the diagram is bosch(mine is delphi) wich is found only on police/taxi packages w/3800 engine. Long story short the part costs $4.00 and some change and takes about 2 seconds to fix. The dealer will charge diagnosis, part and labor. Talk about a true scam. LISTEN TO THIS!!!!! I replaced my body control module for $80.00 dollars and programmed it myself WITHOUT A TECH2 TOOL. E-mail me for question anp202@adelphia.net

Every year around this time (2001 LS) -- so far this year it happened once, a few days ago.

Key On, wait 5 mins, try again....

hey merlin i dont have any extra aftermarket parts on my 01 impala and i have the security light come off every now and then but twice since ive owned the car its not started but after taking key in and out and trying it fires up should Gm not recall this problem if every one is having it?thanks mitch

mitch, GM only does recalls on potential issues that could cause an accident or an increased chance of being hurt more while in an accident.

BOUGHT IN 2004 FOR LOW MILEAGE (13k) & "GOOD CONDITION"
I have reviewed many different blogs and forums regarding this Passlock problem, and the comment that this thread is over 2 years old is no surprise...if we wait on GM, this thread will still be going at 8 years old...my solution will be that once our 2001 Impala is gone, I will finally follow the April issue of Consumer Reports that I buy every year, and buy a Japanese made car with at least a 4 to 5 year good to excellent reputation and maintenance survey in their research. But that is the future..right now, I have a car which will not start, and NONE of the little tricks mentioned on all the blogs are working. Blinking Security/Check Engine/Service Engine Soon lights are all on. Mileage: only 41,000 miles. This is the first time this has happened...I change my own oil, and did so, and also removed the connections on the brand new battery I replaced myself 2 months ago (this did not happen then) in order to clean and apply the gel stuff to prevent acid buildup on the battery posts. Then, it would not start. That was 3 days ago, and nothing has changed. So, we are basically up the creek without a paddle. I am currently unemployed (also a result of corporate greed and arrogance, just like this Passlock problem) and right now I cannot even afford the tow to the dealer, if needed. Arrogant jerks like GMMerlin should keep their stupid post comments to themselves. Not everyone can afford to pay Dealers a labor charge of anywhere from 60 to 85 bucks an hour plus parts. In my present mood, I think this car would make an excellent bonfire in front of the GM Headquarters, with lots of pre-burn phone calls made to ensure MASSIVE media coverage! I have already taken a loss, why not use it to warm up the homeless people? Maybe if we get enough people to stop buying GM junks, they will do the right thing by their customers (Hey, remember a word called INTEGRITY?). As for me, I am so angry right now that I do not wish to have this problem fixed, now. I want GM to come to my house with a wrecker, pick up this piece of sh*t and get it out of here, and hand me a check for the FULL price I originally paid for it, plus the cost of four new brake rotors, pads, calipers, etc all replaced at 24K miles.. What will happen with this heap after 50K miles!? I cannot afford a lawyer, but would like any information someone might have regarding vehicle buybacks in New York State. In the meantime, I am going to research the Lemon laws on the Web....this is a setback we did not need at this time, and as much as I strongly did not believe in placing more money in the pockets of foreign manufacturers, I have now been stung (over the last 20 years) by ALL THREE American carmakers....Time for a change....

:disappoin PS: There are no aftermarket parts anywhere on this Impala, and it has no remote start installed....nice try, Merlin, trying to make this problem seem smaller by saying that 90 percent of these problems are caused by aftermarket installations of remote starters...check out ALL the Internet forums/blogs on this, and you will see how many people (without remote start) are or have been affected by this problem, and oh yeah,- - - how many more do not report it on blogs, etc, but simply pay the money to the dealer, and have the same problem again later? The term "legal scam" comes to mind...

freejo, I feel for you. It always seems like when you can't afford something to happen, it does. It sucks. I'm there with you. I mean I have a nice looking '01 Silverado that's rusting from the inside out. I own my own detail shop so it's not like its never clean. I clean it once and something twice a week. GM would not cover it under warranty because it wasn't a rust hole.

Anyways, my tip on bypassing the PK2 system works about 95% of the time and is pretty easy to do. If you can do it yourself or get a friend to help, it'll only set you back about $10 and an hour of time. Do a search on my topics. Sadly, no one has made it a sticky though.

Ponchonutty: Thanks, man...
Hey, I tried researching your threads, and could not find your procedure for the bypass...is this the same one---"Passlock I or II Disablement" which Ray has on his website? (www.antipasslock.com (http://www.antipasslock.com)) If so, I have been hearing that the procedure (cutting the wire, installing the switch or resistor) is done while the engine is running, which will be impossible for this car. Do you know if this has to be the case?....will this bypass work, and the car start, without the engine running when altered? Your advice is wise, and I appreciate any feedback you have..

I am forced to turn to this option because of my present situation, even though this action will make the car unsaleable....if I were a buyer, I would not buy a car in which there is a problem with the "dummy lights"...(Security light staying on or screen not working due to removed bulb)....Unfortunately, I am also honest..but you know, this kind of situation could make you see why some people commit insurance fraud...to get rid of THEIR junks without taking a BIG loss..

I think this is the thread:

Passlock System -- http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=454520

...all you ever wanted to know...

To Ponchonutty & SpinnerCee:
Thank you both very much for your help with this issue. After reading carefully through the Passlock System thread, I agree with it, in that it is too late now for me to perform this Passlock Bypass. If I could get the car to start at all, I would certainly follow through with this, but at this point it would not help anyway. Once again, thanks a bunch for being a voice in the wilderness...:)
I would like to see an AMERICAN company rise which makes quality vehicles, gears their post-purchase service towards lower & middle class people who are forced to do PM and most repairs themselves (if needed, on a really well made product!). Ford started out to do this, a hundred years ago when things had already started to go to hell in this country. Such nobility cannot survive anymore here in the United Hypocrites of America. I have now surpassed my 50th birthday, and have now changed into a worse radical than at 19...there is an old saying: "Screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice, shame on me". Wake up, people!!!! For anyone interested, go to http://reclaimdemocracy.org, and go down to the Hidden history of Corporations in America, and read the entire article, then check out the rest of the site...Good luck to all you Gottahave Maintenance owners!

This might be a "dumb" question, but here goes anyway...

Do all the Impala's have this passlock system or is it an option?... Is there a chip in the key as part of this system?... Looking at my ignition key I don't see any evidence of an embedded chip... (2001 LS w/3.8L)...

Dear Gems:
Don't quote me on this, but I think that Passlock is a standard feature..if it is an option, I believe it is not one that most customers would ask to be removed from their vehicle, as most of us are concerned with the theft of our large investment. Due to my current experience, if I were a buyer, I would not buy a GM product unless they removed the Passlock System first. (I don't think they would)
If you have a 2001 Impala like I do, there is no chip in the key itself..at that point, the Passlock system had been changed so that the "chip", or sensor, is now part of the ignition key unit, which you put your key in to start the car...If you see the Security light flash temporarily while you are starting and shortly after your car starts, then it is equipped with Passlock.
PS..:) Good luck with yours, I hope this never happens to you...if I ever get this thing started, I am going to perform the bypass as is described earlier in this thread. (To see the specifics, go to the following thread on this forum: "Passlock System".) This is because GM refuses to do anything about this problem, unless the owner pays all or part of the repair cost. Do you believe this??? Brand new, one of these cars can cost you $20 to 30K, roughly, and they want YOU to pay for their faulty product, after you have already paid (too much, these days) for the car and any inconvenience/hardship/danger you may be put in because it just dies when it wants to...Because "Their majesties" do not see this as a Safety issue, they do not care....

My 2001 3.8L LS has the passlock system but not the resistor key (passkey?).

Yeah, it's all in the ignition lock cylinder -- that's why I keep reminding wifey not to hang so many keys (she carries around about 15) on it.

To Ponchonutty & SpinnerCee:
Thank you both very much for your help with this issue. After reading carefully through the Passlock System thread, I agree with it, in that it is too late now for me to perform this Passlock Bypass. If I could get the car to start at all, I would certainly follow through with this, but at this point it would not help anyway. Once again, thanks a bunch for being a voice in the wilderness...:)
I would like to see an AMERICAN company rise which makes quality vehicles, gears their post-purchase service towards lower & middle class people who are forced to do PM and most repairs themselves (if needed, on a really well made product!). Ford started out to do this, a hundred years ago when things had already started to go to hell in this country. Such nobility cannot survive anymore here in the United Hypocrites of America. I have now surpassed my 50th birthday, and have now changed into a worse radical than at 19...there is an old saying: "Screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice, shame on me". Wake up, people!!!! For anyone interested, go to http://reclaimdemocracy.org, and go down to the Hidden history of Corporations in America, and read the entire article, then check out the rest of the site...Good luck to all you Gottahave Maintenance owners!

You are wrong. You can still do the bypass procedure but when you are done, you'll need to do the PK2 relearn technique. It's the same thing the dealer would do if you had them replace the PK2 decoder system. Simply, you just turn the ignition on for 10 minutes then off then back on again for another 10 minutes.

I think this is the thread:

Passlock System -- http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=454520

...all you ever wanted to know...
That's not my thread. That thread just makes you have a deliberate short in the system therefore getting the system to go into pass/fail mode. Doing so makes the pk2 light come on and you HAVE to install the switch to do it. Mine, you install a resistor which is perminately there so there's no need to use the switch. The PK2 won't come on either once completed.

IMO the #1 cause of the this is neglect and abusing the lock cylnder. By disabling this it only makes it easier to steel your car.

This is why GM cars are low on the auto heft lists, unlike a civic that can be started with a screw driver :rolleyes:

Good Luck!

MY 2002 Monte Carlo SS has also had many problems with the security light coming on! Every now and then it will not start at all. Ihave no aftermarket items on the car. My door lock fuse keeps blowing, and i hear constant clicking come from the fuse box. I heard that it could be the BCM, but I have no idea where to find it. I like to save myself some money by doing it myself, so if anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.

IMO the #1 cause of the this is neglect and abusing the lock cylnder. By disabling this it only makes it easier to steel your car.

This is why GM cars are low on the auto heft lists, unlike a civic that can be started with a screw driver :rolleyes:

Good Luck!
Nope it isn't. The #1 cause is a shitty design. Yes, disabling ANY security system could make it easier to steal but only slightly. Also, your statement about GM cars being low on the theft scale is skewed. Yes, Hondas and Toyotas are very high but only because there are what seems to be billions of them and they are hot in the tuner world. So, being hot in the tuner world makes them even hotter in the theft market.

If you go model to model actually GM has the top 4 out of 5 highest and they have this crappy PK2 system. This system is a joke. Don't believe me, take a look http://www.statefarm.com/learning/be_safe/road/learning_besafe_onroad_cartheft1.asp Too bad it isn't a transponder system like the new Toyotas, Hondas, Dodges, and Fords to name a few. Those systems work with hardly a glitch unlike GM.

I had a client that had a brand new H2 Hummer that had 20k of extras installed in his ride. He drove it to a baseball game and it was gone when he came out. Onstar said they saw him restart the truck 9 minutes after he locked it. If it wasn't for his Computrac system, they'd never had found his ride. Here, there was a theft ring that targeted people in high rolling vehicles going to the game.

Don't get me wrong. I love GM but they've really been dropping the ball here lately. I wouldn't state that the PK2 is perfect and that the only problem is consumer neglect. That's the craziest thing I've heard. I mean come on, all owners of other cars that have ignition alarms take care of their cars??? I don't think so. Do a little research next time before you spout off.

MY 2002 Monte Carlo SS has also had many problems with the security light coming on! Every now and then it will not start at all. Ihave no aftermarket items on the car. My door lock fuse keeps blowing, and i hear constant clicking come from the fuse box. I heard that it could be the BCM, but I have no idea where to find it. I like to save myself some money by doing it myself, so if anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
You'll need to track down all the causes of your problems here before messing with the PK2 system. I get calls from used car lots wanting me to do the bypass when about 30% of the time its caused from something else. You may need to have it hooked up to a Tech2 scanner to have the codes read then go from there.

I had a client that had a brand new H2 Hummer that had 20k of extras installed in his ride. He drove it to a baseball game and it was gone when he came out. Onstar said they saw him restart the truck 9 minutes after he locked it. If it wasn't for his Computrac system, they'd never had found his ride. Here, there was a theft ring that targeted people in high rolling vehicles going to the game.


Comparing an Impala to an H2 is a big difference.
If the moneys right they'll steal anything.... anywhere.
So if some knuckle head doesnt know his security systems then they cant steal them. As the years go by the automakers improve thier systems but the crocks are right up to par.
Yes On star is a good thing to have especially when its a $50k+ vehicle :grinyes:

Don't get me wrong. I love GM but they've really been dropping the ball here lately. I wouldn't state that the PK2 is perfect and that the only problem is consumer neglect. That's the craziest thing I've heard. I mean come on, all owners of other cars that have ignition alarms take care of their cars??? I don't think so. Do a little research next time before you spout off.


True!
But the customer doesnt want to hear that.
I know its a cheap unit bound to have many problems is misused/abused.
I just dont justify disabling the system to rid your self of its problematic "No Start" issue's. :2cents:

I'm unsure if you fully understood my last post. Onstar had no idea what was going on. The theives had disabled it within seconds. Onstar is a joke as far as theft deterrant or recovery is concerned. Also, BOTH the H2 and the Impala have the same security device. That's what's crazy. It doesn't matter if you have a $10k Grand am or a $75k H2 (that's what my father's ride had cost) they both have the same system. It's almost worthless to have the same exact security device installed by the manufacturer the same way in 15+ platforms. If you figure out how to bypass one, you can do them all.

The strangest fact is that the true transponder like that's been in the higher end Pontiac vehicles which is called PK3 is a much simpler, more durable, and much cheaper unit to have. I'll never figure it out why they just didn't end up pushing that one. Now, GM did one thing even worse. All of the new platforms have 2 systems installed. Take the new 2007 Avalanche for instance. It has BOTH the PK2 and PK3 installed. They call it PK3+. I'm sure it'll be almost impossible to properly fix this unit by the DIY'r so they'll have to fork out $600-$800 or more for a GM garage to do it.:banghead:

Like I stated before. Too bad they just don't use the regular PK3 system or something like what's used by Ford or Dodge.

The downsides of mass production...

You'd be better off creating your own "system" -- just hide a toggle switch (that interrupts the ignition, start, PCM, etc...) somewhere only you know about...

:)

Yep, I have a new system that I sell at dealerships. It looks like a regular relay that's in your car already but it's not. Inside is a tiny receiver and you learn transmitters to it. So, when you lock your car, it disables what ever you want like fuel pump or starter relay. Then, when you unlock the car, it makes the relay work normally. It's very simple and takes minutes to install and program.

Impala owners go to www.safecar.gov (http://www.safecar.gov) and file a complaint with your starting issues. It's called a recall and GM needs one now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gR-O5R1upfY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gR-O5R1upfY)

welcome to AF ENORMIS.

Please look at the post dates before posting in outdated threads.

this is closed!