2.8 HKS Stroker kit

Has anyone in the US ever done or has a HKS 2.8 Stroker kit. If so can u give me some deatails about the pros and cons about it.

Yes, there have been a couple of guys that have done them. Not me, too much money.

Pros, more cubes = more torque.

Cons,

RB26DETT is not meant for torque, so its almost pointless. IMHO
In order for samller displacement engine to make power, they need to spin. Increase the stroke, you have more chance of something letting go. Plus more cubes will have a inverse reaction to the power band at the higher RPMs. In other words, you will make less power. At least from the engines that I have seen.

Cost $$$$$$

This is the way I look at it, if you want good power out of the RB26DETT you cannot go wrong with a set of 2530. They are direct bolt ons, plus the drive train can handle almost all the power it can put out. If you want more power than what the 2530 can put out, you are going to have to dig deeper into your pockets, because the engine will need some major work and upgrades, plus the tranny will need to be strengthned.

The GT-SS are a quicker spoolin turbo, but the 2530 have a little more power at top end. It all depends on what you want.

I would not go with a 2.8stroker kit, there are much cheaper way to get the power out of the engine. :2cents:

Another drawback to the kit is, unless you are using the N1 block you could very well wind up having block failure. In other words cracking between the #3 and #4 cylinders. Even with the N1 block pushing more than 950hp out of it there is still a danger of block failure.

Also if something goes wrong and you need to change anything internally it is very expensive as everything is different compared to normal aftermarket parts.

At the end of the day unless it is a fully sponsored race car, this kit is hardly worth it. There are two GTR's here in NZ making over 1,300 hp with the original bore and stroke dimension, well bored out for forged pistons.

Thank you you save me some time and money.

How do you think I shoud go about it, my goal is to have around 800hp at the tires but I was told that the stock crank would only hold 7-8. So that's why I was thinking about the 2.8 kit it comes with everthing I'd need rods pistons and crank. I tought I'd come out cheaper buying the kit.

800hp, how long do want the drive train to last?

As soon as you go above 550ish, that is when you really need to do some major mods, if you want 800hp to the ground, not to mention you are talkin a lot of cash.

What are your intentions for the R33? Do you have a list of what and how you want to achieve 800hp?

I'm willing to do what ever it takes this is my show car so I don't drive it everyday. I bearley drive it at all. I plan on trying to building it over the next year I just want to build it right. I don't want to have to keep going in the motor to add things unless I'm fixing something..

I was thinking 1000cc injectors,280 intake and exhaust cams, HKS rods,rings,pistons, maybe even crank. 3 fueal pumps,2 HKS 3240 turbos, etc,etc everything. I 'm even looking into a OS Gilken Transmission

I have a rb26dett and I have never heard of a N1 block. Whats the difference? Sounds like its a lot stronger. If so how much hp can my stock block and head gasket hold? Im already pushing 400 rwhp.
Thanks guys.

Real GTR ,
280s are fuckin huge.

3 fuel pumps, why. You can buy one that will be able to support 800hp.

2 3240, lag will be your friend, unless you get a little shot of the funny stuff, direct port of course.

With that combo, 800 will be doable.


S13GTR ,
N1 blocks have a little more webbing if I remember correctly. Mario is putting out over a 1000hp with a stock block. But, like all big power engines they are all on borrowed time, now aren't they.

400rwhp, what rear end do you have? What mods do you have?

I looked a little into buying a N1 at Taka Kaira Inc but they could tell if I'd get the motor tell I placed the order/paid for it up front.

My dirrect port should be here this week. But just ran into another problem, I have a oil seal leak from one of my turbos.The guy that is going to build my motor is really trying to discurage me from doing so much HP. After what just happened I may need to rethink everything.

I have the five speed tranny in here now, will the six speed directly bolt in? And which fuel pump were you talking about? Also I was told two different thing that it is and isn't sequental could u please enlightn me?

I've moved this here as it is a good thread and now fits this area.

800hp at the wheels isn't a huge ask. It will however take some dosh to get you there as one would expect. You're choice in cams will put you there but you realize you will need to have the head machined for clearnce of the cam lobes. Also you are looking at springs, retainers, porting, and a custom manifold.
Pistons are you're choice. JE's are fine. Trust use their blanks but charge 2 1/2 X the price. HKS, Jun, etc are no better and all cost more. Your factory crank will support your power depending on how you drive. If the car winds up a drag car it won't last more than a full season if you're lucky. Normal driving where you are not giving it death all the time who knows, could last a long time.

So you are looking at the following:

ECU: PowerFC, Link, Motec, etc.
Rods: Carillo, HKS, Jun, etc
Rodbolts: ARP!
Pistons: JE unless you want to pay for a name
Block: Bored to fit the pistons
Head: Cams, Retainers, lifters, springs porting, machinng
Cams: 280's if that is what you want or even 264's
springs, retainers, lifters: HKS, Jun, Trust
Intercooler: 600x300x120
Turbo(s): There are many combinations. T88, T51R, HKS 3037'S, GT30'S name a few.
Fuel pumps: apexi x2
fuel pressure regulator: Malpassi large
OS Giken gear set for the trans or spend $10,000 + for a complete trans
I would also suggest a swirl pot for the fuel.

There are so many different combinations to go with, a the end of the day though it will boil down to how deep your pockets are.

Fuel pump...Weldon a2025

With everything you want to put into that car, you could afford a small country. :evillol:

Also I was told two different thing that it is and isn't sequental could u please enlightn me? ? What do you mean?

This is what I did to my car.

Nissan N-1 racing block
HKS 2.8l STEP 3 stroker kit
HKS 280 STEP PRO V Head system
HKS Adjustable Cam Gears
HKS Oil Pump
HKS T-51 KAI SPL BB Turbo
HKS GT Wastegate
HKS 4 CORE GT Series Intercooler
Custom Fabricated Surge Tank
Power Enterprise 6X1000cc and 6x800cc injectors
HPI R1 Oil Cooler
Trust Deep Sump Oil Pan
Radiator Brass 3 core
HKS F-CON V-PRO Computer
HKS Triple plate clutch
O.S. GIKEN Cross Mission
Cusco front and rear L.S.D.�fs
HKS front and rear axles
NISMO Rear Lower Control Arms
NISMO Rear Upper Links
NISMO Front Lower Control Arms
HPI Pillow Ball Tension Rods
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
HKS Pro Start
GREDDY Gauges
Boost, Fuel Pressure, EGT, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure
HKS AIC
HKS Torque Split and Drag Adapter
HKS EVC 3
Hurst Linelock
Aeromotive 1000 fuel pumps x 2

853 to the wheels at 1.8 boost. Safe to 2.5 boost levels. I spent over $40,000 in parts alone and that was at cost. Did all of the fab work and assembly myself.

I at least decided to go with the 3037's. Everything else will probly be HKS or Nismo.
I don't race much if at all so the crank should be ok.

Is there anyone in the US other that Motorex that can get nismo skyline parts? and is that transmission a direct built in? Would I still be able to run 94 oct or would I strickly need to run on race gas? Also how would the driveshaft hold up?

Hey Razor on the mirageautosports.com web site they have the OS Trany for 928,000 yen=7,789.18 (U.S) how did you come up with the 10,000 g's figure.

If you're going to go with a stroker kit, might as well check out Crower...

http://www.crower.com/cat/stroker.shtml

Taka Kaira is selling brand new complete N1 engine's for $7000, you can get an N1 shortblock for $1400 or so I've heard.

Real GTR, are you from NY?

Hey Razor on the mirageautosports.com web site they have the OS Trany for 928,000 yen=7,789.18 (U.S) how did you come up with the 10,000 g's figure.

OS Giken tranny isn't much better than the gear/shaft set. There is nothing in the box strenght over the factory one. $10,000 would be for a Holinger or simular. I can get OS Giken gear sets for $5,000 NZD or about $2,500 USD ex-Japan through a contact.

I would like to interject this little tidbit into the conversation.

With all this talk of strong bottom ends, without correct modding and tuning to the head area, all that strength will be for no reason.

I would really do some research on what head work needs to get done in order to get the suck in and the bang out, as that is the most important part :P


As far as an N1 block goes... Waste of cash IMHO unless you want to build a straight drag car. No road race car needs the kinda horses that you would need an N1 block to attain

Fair call Gonthrax.

Most people who have never been in a car producing a legitimate 500hp, have any idea just how potent that is. 800hp in a road car is insane though many do it. The major problems are 1. You will never use it on a daily basis. 2. Longevity of the motor and drivability are greatly diminished.

A 650 cid V8 producing 750hp is equivelent to the RB26 producing 475hp in drivability and longevity. It is all in proportion and relation to the size of the motor vs the power output.

Fair call Gonthrax.

Most people who have never been in a car producing a legitimate 500hp, have any idea just how potent that is. 800hp in a road car is insane though many do it.

I guess that really depends on where you live, because there are countless cars around here pushing 500hp or more so I really wouldnt say it's potent. The 03 Cobras will make that much just going to a smaller pulley, exhaust and chip. One of the local street civics pulls 141mph trap speeds(no nitrous), a brand new EVO VIII that dynoed 518awhp (pruvenperformance.com), SC Vipers & Vettes, 9.4 sec Supra etc.

He said road car, those cars are more for the 1/4 mile. You can throw street car lable on anything, you know what I mean?

Once you get a car in the 10s, its kind of not so much street car anymore.

I can say my R32 is pushing out about 380, and she is very quick. I could not imagine what it would be like with the engine that tofstchvy has made in it. I can tell you one thing, I would not want to drive tofstchvy's R32 in a the city. Can you shed some light on the drivability of that car?


If you can afford a show car, more power to ya, but I think it would be ruining it. The GTR is a drivers car, not some trophy piece. IMO

Get some decent power out of it, and drive the darn thing.

He said road car, those cars are more for the 1/4 mile. You can throw street car lable on anything, you know what I mean?


.

Well, all of the cars I mentioned are indeed road going cars with full interiors, not just cars with "street car" label thrown on. The 9.4 sec Supra was actually a daily driver (Albert Diaz), same with the 518awhp Evo. The Civic isnt a daily driver, but it is a street car that roams around NYC.

I live in Cincinnati, Ohio Abuc. I'm going to look into every aspect of how to build this motor. It's more important that I build this right. I do plan on driving it everyonce in a while on the weekends and maybe some track time. The only outher time I'll drive it is to and from shows where ever they may be.

I am going to shot for 800hp though if I fall short i'll still be happy. I'm still wondering if i'll be able to run 94 octane or race gas all the time.

I live in Cincinnati, Ohio Abuc. I'm going to look into every aspect of how to build this motor. It's more important that I build this right. I do plan on driving it everyonce in a while on the weekends and maybe some track time. The only outher time I'll drive it is to and from shows where ever they may be.

I am going to shot for 800hp though if I fall short i'll still be happy. I'm still wondering if i'll be able to run 94 octane or race gas all the time.

Oh, there's a White R33 upstate NY, thought you were him for a sec.


You'd be able to run the car on 94 oct as long as it's a low boost setting.

94oct it will all depend on the tune. You can adjust the boost then for different octane during the tuning session.

If you want a really 800hp car, heck just mirror what tofstchvy has done, get it tuned and your done. R33 with lots o power. It should be quick as a scalded ape:)

R33 with lots o power. It should be quick as a scalded ape:)

And we all know those are pretty damn fast... :screwy:

My name is Saif and i have atuning shop, i'm from U A E , i have worked on many RB26DETT engine, i think i can help you building yours


1) Pistons : HKS, J E , or ROss, (( go with ROSS , i can help you with the part number ) , cost : $700

2) RODs, Crower ( cheap and good ) Also i can give you the part number , Cost : $950

3) Nismo Crank main bearings, Conrods bearings , Cost complete sets : $130

4) Cams , go with HKS Step 2 , ( two Cams + 24 Springs + Two Cam Pully ) you can safe alot of money, cost $ 950

5) Metal head gasket : 1.2 or 1.6 , cost : $270

6) Oil Pump , I liked Trust , but you can go with Jun , HKS or Nismo, Turst Oil pump may cost you $800

7) Trust Oil Pan , cost : $240

8) for the Turbo kit, HKS T51R Kai is the best kit for the GTR , cost price : $4800 ( Complete kit with down pipe )

9) HKS Intercooler type R, cost $1600


10) ORC twin or triple plate clutch , cost $1750



11) HKS Fuel Rail

12) HKS or Sard 1000cc injectors

13) FC power and commander

14) HKS exhasut system


15) Fuel Pump, you can add nimo intank fuel pump ( cost $300 ) , and if you want to save money , buy Toyota Supra turbo Fuel pump .


16) Trust Oil cooler


This is all


if you need any help let me know and if you need any parts from Japan , i can help getting parts direct from Japan ( 10% to 15% cheaper than Takakaira )


good luck

I did all the job on this BNR34 , T51 kai , 1000cc

Power: around 700 Hp

more pics

thank

Awesome work.

I figured up a $15,000 price tag. I did not see any head work with that set up? For about 700hp? Not bad:)

What about the Stock tranny? The R34 tranny is better, but will it need any work to keep it alive?

Very nice work Saif. :)

Also this is somthing I've never looked into, sparked by Sky's mention of head work.

Does any one have any good data on how well a stock RB26DETT head flows?

SkylineUSA ,,,,

tranny is good, you need to change the clutch , my freind has an BNR32 , with stock tranny , OS Triple plates clutch , the car is for drag race, with T51R SPL BB and 300 Hp nos . his best time is 9.7 seconds,

OS clutch is goood, the best ( for drag race )

but if you want to drive the car daily , go with ORC ( Ogura Racing Clutch ) very smooooooth ,



Gonthrax , HKS offer RB26DETT Head systems

STEP 1 : good for 8000RPM , only 2 Cams ( Price : 38,000 JPY for one cam )

STEP 2 : up to 9000 RPM ( 2 Cams , 24 springs , Cam pully ) ( Price : 118,000 JPY for the set)

Step Pro L: up to 10,000 RPM Complete head parts ( without Valves ) ( Price: 180,000 JPY for the set )

Step Pro V : up to 10,000 RPM Complete head parts + Valves

My name is Saif and i have atuning shop, i'm from U A E , i have worked on many RB26DETT engine, i think i can help you building yours


1) Pistons : HKS, J E , or ROss, (( go with ROSS , i can help you with the part number ) , cost : $700

2) RODs, Crower ( cheap and good ) Also i can give you the part number , Cost : $950

3) Nismo Crank main bearings, Conrods bearings , Cost complete sets : $130

4) Cams , go with HKS Step 2 , ( two Cams + 24 Springs + Two Cam Pully ) you can safe alot of money, cost $ 950

5) Metal head gasket : 1.2 or 1.6 , cost : $270

6) Oil Pump , I liked Trust , but you can go with Jun , HKS or Nismo, Turst Oil pump may cost you $800

7) Trust Oil Pan , cost : $240

8) for the Turbo kit, HKS T51R Kai is the best kit for the GTR , cost price : $4800 ( Complete kit with down pipe )

9) HKS Intercooler type R, cost $1600


10) ORC twin or triple plate clutch , cost $1750



11) HKS Fuel Rail

12) HKS or Sard 1000cc injectors

13) FC power and commander

14) HKS exhasut system


15) Fuel Pump, you can add nimo intank fuel pump ( cost $300 ) , and if you want to save money , buy Toyota Supra turbo Fuel pump .


16) Trust Oil cooler


This is all


if you need any help let me know and if you need any parts from Japan , i can help getting parts direct from Japan ( 10% to 15% cheaper than Takakaira )


good luck


Nice list!

Do you have a website? If you can get stuff cheaper then Takakaira I'll definitley be buying from you.

abuC

i dont have aweb site, i have a garage and showroom, i have a partner in Japan ( Tokyo ) . since you are from USA , its ok to order direct from him, i can give you his email.

he can ship direct to you . he is very nice guy and i trust him alot,


i can help you with all the part numbers .

email me at uaeboy@uaeboy.com


thanks

saif

Nice work Saif,

I personally wouldnt go for Ross pistons, as they have lasted less than 3000miles in my R34 for various reasons. I would also point out that "Paying for a name" as said earlier is a valid point, except that Jun pistons are made by Cosworth, and are often thought to be amongst the best, Tomei and HKS also use them I believe, but I am not 100% sure.

I am surprised that you feel the stock transmission is good enough for 700bhp+, as all the people I know with these sorts of power figures have destroyed their gearboxes in quite short order. I have also been told that the 6speed 34 unit isnt as strong as the 5speed, but I maybe have my facts back to front. Personally if I could afford an 800+car then I would have a Hollinger and not worry about the expense.

Lastly, I wish I had known about you earlier this year, as I have gone through two sets of Nismo bearings and shells thanks to my rebuild problems, and I certainly wasnt paying the prices you describe. Still I have your email now, and will make it known to a few of the GTR crowd here in the UK.

Regards,

James

I've heard good things and bad things about the trany. I did hear it was good for 700+ hp I gess I'll find out.

Can anyone recomend a good machine shop that the trust. I was thinking about sending the motor out to XS engenering(sp) in LA but I would like to try to keep it close to the mid west if possible.

The trannies will only last a little while at 600+hp. The os giken gear set will buy you some time but the only way to go is a holinger. I still have the stock one in my car and it is ready to go any pass. Hopefully the holinger will get here soon. I have a shop here in co and do work on gtr's. My own car is the quickest u.s. owned skyline in the country and I have a couple gtr's in the shop getting mtr's right now.

James , its the driver ..LOL

Nice work Saif,

Lastly, I wish I had known about you earlier this year, as I have gone through two sets of Nismo bearings and shells thanks to my rebuild problems, and I certainly wasnt paying the prices you describe. Still I have your email now, and will make it known to a few of the GTR crowd here in the UK.

Regards,

James

Seriously though, that is an impressive beast you got there Saif, Likewise I wish I had know you earlier in the year.. Ref the clutch , you were saying that the OS is good for drag and the ORC for road use... will the ORC take alot of abuse as would the OS..?

A tofstchvy will the holinger directly bolt in?

hi guys,

its was a long day , just got home, and its 1 am . ZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzz
sleepy , but i would like to talk about the holinger since i have it on my BNR32 , 1000 HP , 9.332 on street tires


but not now, i gotta go to bed

Saif

Once again, very nice work.

Stock tranny is limited by 3rd, and 4th. More so 3rd. The teeth do not line up just right, hence its week.

SkylineUSA

you are right about 3rd and 4th. we have faced some problme , but you know , second hand trany is soo cheap here in UAE, for example, yesterday , i bought a supra ( 2JZ-GTE ) engine A(with tranny , auto ) for $900 USD , its Japanese spec, sooooo clean, with all the harness and everything, twin turbo , so, GTR tranny is cheap here, this is the point.



Also, one of my freind has a GTR 32 , with stock tranny , his car is more than 800+ for sure, the car has HKS T51R SPL BB , motic ECU , triple clutch , 1000cc injectors, and TWO STAGES OF NOS

6 fogers ( about 200 Hp )
and 1 forger ( 75 HP ) ( total almost 300 Hp shots )

he did 9.8 sec with stock tranny


i think he has the fastes GTR on stock tranny


check this site, his car is RED color , BNR32

http://www.speed4ever.com/index.php?speed=gtr1



http://www.speed4ever.com



Saif

A tofstchvy will the holinger directly bolt in?


the holinger is a direct bolt in on r32's. On the r33 you have to change the clutch to a push style.

My stock tranny is still ok after more than 2 years of 600hp and being abused monthly around the F1 track (had done more than 250laps so far!). No sign of stress.

The standard trans may last a while at 600hp because you are not launching the car as you would at a drag strip. If you were it wouldn't last long. I've seen the internals of them and they are not very big at all. I'm actually suprised they can tollerate even that much power.

As far as your mate pushing 800+ hp on a standard gearbox I've got only one thing to say. BULLSHIT.

I've seen them litterally spit their guts out when pushed over 700hp all over the track. In other words gears, rings, shims, oil, and bits of the casing on the ground. That was during acceleration not launching. There is nothing you could say to convince me other wise. I've been around these cars for over 5 years, talked to a few of the top Japanese tuning companies such as Mr. Nagata of Top Secrete (who btw does speaks very little english).

Ok I've decided on a few things.

1. I'm going to get the turbos since my stock on are going out any way. I'm just waiting on a few people to get back with me on prices on them.

Next I'm goining to get all the little things out the way like injectors a cams values etc. etc.

I'm still up in the air on rods,ring, pistons and maybe crank. I'm thinking if I change all that stuff out I might as well do a stroker kit. But I gess I just wait tell the time comes to wory about it.

I am going to upgrade the tranny but I want to wait to see how long the stock one holds out. Weither I replace it now or later it will still need to be replaced if it breaks.

I'm wondering if it would have just been easier to buy the N1 motor I saw on Taka Kaira slap 2 turbos one it and just drop it in and call it a day?

Totally agree with Razor, once again.

It could be possible that the tranny had some mods done to it, the owner does not know about.

What's the power threshold for the OS giken Crossmission sets? I know they still have the 3rd gear mismatch but how much power can they take.

What's the power threshold for the OS giken Crossmission sets? I know they still have the 3rd gear mismatch but how much power can they take.

The OS Giken sets are approximetely 1/3 larger in size (thickness) and are also double syncro rings. Reece MeGreggor ran a full season with the "B" set in his R33 GTR at the strip and never had a failure. That car at the time dynoed on a hub dyno, at 843hp. I am not exactly sure what the threash hold for the set is or what they claim it to be.

The Veilside R32 Drag/Street combat car uses or used a OS Giken set and at the time were supposedly 1,200hp, but I've never gotten confirmation on that.

How good or bad is the HKS tranny?

The OS Giken sets are approximetely 1/3 larger in size (thickness) and are also double syncro rings. Reece MeGreggor ran a full season with the "B" set in his R33 GTR at the strip and never had a failure. That car at the time dynoed on a hub dyno, at 843hp. I am not exactly sure what the threash hold for the set is or what they claim it to be.

The Veilside R32 Drag/Street combat car uses or used a OS Giken set and at the time were supposedly 1,200hp, but I've never gotten confirmation on that.


Thanks for the info, if the Heat Treatments GTR ran them for a full season then that bodes well since 843hp is more then I'd ever think of making.


Real, dont quote me on this but from what I've read HKS just sells the Holinger with their name on it.

The hks is just a rebadged holinger. The os gearset is rated at 750hp. As with all things it could last with more power than that or blow up with less power.

I've seen an HKS box and it looks like a quaif box not a hollinger box. It is still an H pattern box with straight cut gears in other words a dog or crash box. The would lend me to believe that it is no different than the "Trust" box which again is a quiaf dog box. Most are 6 speed with the odd one being a 5speed. They are good for about 750hp before they just don't hold up well. Croydon Wholesalers GTR destroyed their Trust box 11 times before they gave up and went to the hollinger.

I would like to get confirmation on that also as others have mentioned it as a hollinger. It very well could be an H patterned hollinger box instead of the sequential style they are known for.

I was just wondering would I have to change the intake manifold and what does everyone thin about APEX internals? I haven't seen to many people use them and I was wonder why?

Intake tech for the RB26, is no where near as advanced as the American V8s, aftermarket wise. There is an intake for sale on ebay right now, but they want almost 2k for it. Price does not meet the gain, if there is an gain at all.

I have heard very good things about Apexi, its just that HKS is the one everyone hears about, because a lot of their stuff is a straight bolt on.

I want to thank everone for there help and insight.

So far I've gotten a RX6B twin turbo kit and I've ordered 270/11.4 cams and a 1.5mm head gasket.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the L.S.D. do I have to change it or can I just leave that alone?

From my undersatnding, you cannot change your gear ratio in the rear, unless you match the change to the front diff. The factory unit is solid, I would leave it alone.

Cams are way too big, at least in my eyes.

Also you do know with that big of a cam, thats is going to be alot more $, and downtime, because the head is going to need to be machined, not sure but you might have an issue with valve clearance, even with the bigger head gasket.

There might not be an issue at all, but I just wanted to bring that to your attention, if had not looked into it.

I know that there will be some issues when it comes to machining I plan on have the whole thing machined. I won't be pulling the motor tell this time next year when I repaint the car again so I have pleanty of time.

I'm still up in the air on a machine shop thought. I was told I could send it to XS, Morris suggested a shop that I'll have to call and check out. I was even told I could send it to a shop in Japan I don't know about that one though.

Sean, of course has been around GTRs alongtime. If suggest XS, I would not hesitate to go with them.

Good Luck with the build.

Sean said I should use King Motorsports in Sullivan Wisconsin but I know XS can do the work too.

OS Giken has 6 speed sequential transmission which can handle 1500ps
http://www.osgiken.co.jp/pro_spec/rb26sq-tm.html