Differential problems on 00' Silverado

Hello everyone. I'm having problems with my rear axle on my 00' silverado. A few days ago I made a right turn and heard a loud "CLUNK" that came from my axle. I thought I had hit a big hole in the street or something....but then it done it again when I made another right. Seem like it makes the noise mostly when I'm turning.

I wanted to troubleshoot a bit before I take it apart or send the axle to get fixed, so yesterday we jacked up the truck and put it on stands and played around with it a bit. There is no noise when both wheels are up and runs with no problem or noise. The problem comes when you put in on one wheel. When you put the passenger side wheel down...the left when turns with the constant noise....but then when you put it down on the drivers side...they both turn instead of just the wheel off the ground(almost fell of the stands). This is not normal right? Both shouldn't turn if one is off the ground? Never really had problems with my differential in any of my trucks...so I'm pretty new at this. Just want to when were to start. Should I go ahead a remove the rear cover and visually inspect it first?

Also, where can I check for my gear ratio? I'm not sure where to look at. I don't have the window sticker from when I bought it anymore.

Thanks in advance for any information.

Ramiro

00' Silverado Ex. cab
2WD
5.3L V8
65,000 Miles
http://members.sounddomain.com/ramiro

If you have the G80(locker), it will clunk when it engages pretty loudly. If one wheel is off the ground the free wheel should spin approx once and then clunk the other kicks in. If one just spins in the air, it's broke.
BTW that jackstand trick is no good with a locker :D Sam

I have just bought an 02 ext. cab z71 and am having a similar clunking noise on hard acceleration from a dead stop. I have sanded and lubed the driveshaft yoke twice, lubed the spring pads and tightened all bolts, i also checked the rear diff. for excessive play but found none.it sounds like the noise is coming from the rear diff. housing. I have the locking diff.w/410 gears. Is this a common problem with this truck and how can i fix it. I thought of maybe changing the rear locker to an Auburn unit or something better than stock if this would fix it.Any info would be appriciated.

Ramiro- Well I cant tell you much about the clunk noise, but Your gear ratio, I can. With the truck on stands and in neutral, take a white marker and mark your tire and drive shaft. Turn your wheel one complete rotation and count how many times the drive shaft turns. That will get you close enough to match with one of chevy's spec rear ends.

eg. Buckeye has 410 gears (4.10 to 1). so when Buckeye turns his rear wheel one complete turn his drive shaft turns 4.1 times. Hope that helps.

If I where you I would open up your rear cover plate immediatly. I was having a right turn clunk that I ignored , it wasn't but a month later and I completly destroyed the carrier, ring gear, pinion gear and all parts inside the carrier housing. I have a G80 and only 70,000 on my 1998 Z71. The carrier snapped in half and the ring gear destroyed every thing else. It happened after a right turn.

this just happened to my 99 stepside, over the train tracks on a right turn in a little 'competition' and SLAM.. completely shredded it.. the magnet on the cover was completely hidden by metal fragments and shavings.. it took my driveshaft a whole turn to even start rolling the wheels

I agree with skipr, pull the cover off right now . It sounds like you have a spider gear that is gone or going and it WILL destroy your diff if you leave it any longer.

oh boy i had my entire rear end changed at 60k , to find your gear ratio go into your glovebox they have a sticker with a shit load of 3-digit code's this is what you want any G-CODES is rear end as follows
-G80=locking rear differential
-GU2=2.73
-GU4=3.08
-GU6=3.42
-GT4=3.73
-GQ1=3.73
-GT5=4.10
so if you dont see G80 it's not a locker if you have G80 it is .
and yes pull the cover and inspect.

oh boy i had my entire rear end changed at 60k , to find your gear ratio go into your glovebox they have a sticker with a shit load of 3-digit code's this is what you want any G-CODES is rear end as follows
-G80=locking rear differential
-GU2=2.73
-GU4=3.08
-GU6=3.42
-GT4=3.73
-GQ1=3.73
-GT5=4.10
so if you dont see G80 it's not a locker if you have G80 it is .
and yes pull the cover and inspect.

When you opened your back cover did it look like someone threw a gernade in there? Mine sure did, A million little peices of metal the only thing I could identify was the ring gear.

not sure i had warrenty till 80k and this happened at 60k so i just brought it to them and said i had a bad in the rear!!! the part's list they changed was retarted i also have the locker g80 with 3.73's they also changed the axle shaft's and one rotor???? why would anyone change just one rotor? they got an ear full for that but i paid for the other one even though i was okay i wanted 2 new for even wear also had clips missing from the u-joint so check that and see if that was the problem iam reading the work order now forgot about that i think that's what did mine in? result was side and pinion gears worn causing clunking while going over bumps, kind of like the sound of towing an empty trailer. good luck and p.s get a locker better in rain and snow!

I have a 2000 with 80k on it and i just replaced the stock limited slip unit with an Eaton due to the fact that the stock units spider gears shattered on the freeway with the ever so famous loud clunk. plus I had to replace both rotors on the rear due to the great design of the parking brake shoe/drum being on the inside of the rear rotors and has constant pressure and wears itself out even if you dont use it.

You replaced just the diff? What did it cost you? I fear I'm headed down the same road.

You replaced just the diff? What did it cost you? I fear I'm headed down the same road.


An Eaton is more expensive than a stock Gov-Loc limited slip. But i'm sure the part can be purchased for under $500. Just reuse your old ring gear (unless it's hammered). I got my stock replacement for $225 (brand new) thats without the carrier bearings.

An Eaton is more expensive than a stock Gov-Loc limited slip. But i'm sure the part can be purchased for under $500. Just reuse your old ring gear (unless it's hammered). I got my stock replacement for $225 (brand new) thats without the carrier bearings.
The Eaton is a little more expensive at 275.00 but well worth the few dollars more. After all, just take a look at the forums and see how many stock units are being replaced. Plus when you spin on the stockers take a look at the rubber on the road, it will almost always be one tire mark instead of the two that the Eaton leaves everytime!

So, how hard is it to replace just the diff and not the whole rear end? Most people say just replace the whole thing. The haynes manual says don't even bother touching it.

So, how hard is it to replace just the diff and not the whole rear end? Most people say just replace the whole thing. The haynes manual says don't even bother touching it.
I found it pretty easy to do the swap, I used the same Ring and Pinion so I only had to worry about the carrier shims and not the pinions. I have some pretty good instructions I found from research I did prior to doing the job, I can send you a copy if you want. The only word of caution would be make sure to have plenty of shims on hand, preferebly not the cast ones like the stock ones because they seem to be a little brittle and break.

I found it pretty easy to do the swap, I used the same Ring and Pinion so I only had to worry about the carrier shims and not the pinions. I have some pretty good instructions I found from research I did prior to doing the job, I can send you a copy if you want. The only word of caution would be make sure to have plenty of shims on hand, preferebly not the cast ones like the stock ones because they seem to be a little brittle and break.

That would be great if you could send the instructions. Thank you.

You are still gonna need a dial indicator, and if you plan on a ring gear replacement, you just opened up a whole other can of worms. because you hav to change pinions with rings, they are all matched sets. Pressing out the old bearings and races is a huge pain in the ass. And pressing in the new races is even bigger pain in the ass (referring to pinion gear bearings). At the very least you will need to know your backlash and contact pattern which requires a dial indicator w/magnetic base.

You are still gonna need a dial indicator, and if you plan on a ring gear replacement, you just opened up a whole other can of worms. because you hav to change pinions with rings, they are all matched sets. Pressing out the old bearings and races is a huge pain in the ass. And pressing in the new races is even bigger pain in the ass (referring to pinion gear bearings). At the very least you will need to know your backlash and contact pattern which requires a dial indicator w/magnetic base.
Very true but I dont believe that he is replacing the ring and pinion, only the posi unit. the bearings will have to be pressed on to the new unit and the races bolt in. he will have to preload the bearings to aquire a true read from the contact pattern. All of this is included in the detailed instructions Im sending him, it also covers ring and pinion replacement. As for anyone reading this post, skipr is 100% correct with what he says. This can very easily turn into a BIG pain in the ass! I wouldnt recomend anyone attempting to do this unless they have mechanical experience, the proper tools, and can follow directions.

p.s. and a friend with a car to take you around for parts

Very true but I dont believe that he is replacing the ring and pinion, only the posi unit. the bearings will have to be pressed on to the new unit and the races bolt in. he will have to preload the bearings to aquire a true read from the contact pattern. All of this is included in the detailed instructions Im sending him, it also covers ring and pinion replacement. As for anyone reading this post, skipr is 100% correct with what he says. This can very easily turn into a BIG pain in the ass! I wouldnt recomend anyone attempting to do this unless they have mechanical experience, the proper tools, and can follow directions.

p.s. and a friend with a car to take you around for parts

It seems you have gone through this headache yourself.

GM units junk..Get an Auburn Gear. I put in several and with some mechanical knowledge you can do it in about 3 hours. No shiming required.

GM units junk..Get an Auburn Gear. I put in several and with some mechanical knowledge you can do it in about 3 hours. No shiming required.


Are you saying that your backlash comes out perfect on first atempt? Or you don't bother checking? Close is good enough huh?

No Shims??? Can you please explain?

would this kit work on a G80 differential ? I asked the guy selling and got no response. So I figure i'd ask the experts.

thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7959479530&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

would this kit work on a G80 differential ? I asked the guy selling and got no response. So I figure i'd ask the experts.

thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7959479530&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Yea it will work, but I wouldn't buy Koyo bearings. The OEM replacements are Timken bearings. A good manufactor (USA made) that has been in the buisness for over 50 years.You will pay more, but why go cheap on something like this. Alot of stress riding on those bearings.

i would pull the cover, assess the damaga and if there are alot of metal shavings, replace the entire rear end...jasper 3 yr 75k warranty is awesome...i had the same noise, and ended up throwing half of my diff out of the cover, made a whole the size of my fist, email me and i will show you pics redneckd_out@mindspring.com

Actually, if I open it up, clean it out, replace the cover, put new fluid in, and still have an issue, I'll probably let Cottman do a complete repair for me at a cost of about $300-400. That way it's fully covered if it's not done right. I'd love to experiment, but if I screw up on a big ticket item like this then that's just wasteful. Alternatively, maybe I should get the eaton differential and be done with it...decisions decisions...:)

I found this link:
http://www.gm-trucks.com/IAR_RearDifffluid.shtml

It does not give any details as to how they are cleaning the differential out. Once you have the cover removed, they say to clean it out. Is there a fluid you can spray in there to flush the parts ? Or are they just cleaning the inside of the cover ?

I have a 2000 Chevy Silveraldo 1500 4x4 and have to replace the spider gears on my truck, after several phone calls I found where I need to purchase them, the owner has had three phone calls today on these gears alone, after reading this forum and going through my own dilemma, I was wanting to email Chevy to find out why something hasn't been done by them to resolve this problem. This should be a recall. I visited the Chevy website and nowhere in there was a link that I could talk to them directly, there is however an address. I will send them a letter, what I'm wondering is, has anyone complained to Chevy about this problem? I am a diehard Chevy fan but this truck has just about changed my mind. I have had more problems and have spent more money on this one truck then I really care to talk about. Have you guys said anything to Chevy??:nono:

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