GSR or CR-V????

Sorry I havn't posted in a couple of days. Okay, first off, a block gaurd basically will serve to close the deck. You are placing it (and welding it in in some cases) between the cylider walls and the block, which "closes the deck." I know of it being welding in and then properly milled down smooth the weld afterwords, so it's premanent. But yes, that's basically what the block gaurd does, as long as it's the what I am thinking of. It's the one that goes the length of the cylinder walls, correct, not the one that one gones down an inch or 1/2 inch? because you want to close the WHOLE deck, not just the top or middle inch or 2. Okay, now, as for a vavle job, they polish and machine the valves. They machine the edges to certian angles. This improves airflow and helps the vavles from stalling at high rpm's. And yes, a 5-angle vavle job is better than a 3 angle vavle job. However, the 5 angle vavle job will cost more than the 3-angle, but it is better than a 3 angle. It's a matter of cost I suppose.

ok, the blockgaurd i got is the 1/2 inch kind, will it at least do sometihng? and if im going for say 250HP all motor CRVTEC, should i even bother putting it in.

But for the 5 angle valve job, I can do it myself in my machine shop but I should probably ask someone who knows how to do it to guide me....By doing all the machine work myself, I'll probably save a lot of money....

Okay, first off, the half-inch kind should do something. I mean, it's not closeing the deck, top to bottom, but it stablialies the top area, helping keep the cylinder from moving and cracking under high boost, etc. If thats all you can go for, do it. It may not be closing the deck entirly, but it's certainly better than nothing.

And yeah, in regards to a 5 angle vavle job. I could tell you baiscally what they do, but I wouldn't wanna leave something out and screw you up, as knowing the idea of how and doing it are to different things. But if you can do it all, you can save tons of money.

Well....tell me what you know about the job (if you want to of course :smile: ) and don't worry, I'll gather the necessary infos so it won't screw up....I never start something before I know exactly what I'm doing :smile:

Well....tell me what you know about the job (if you want to of course :smile: ) and don't worry, I'll gather the necessary infos so it won't screw up....I never start something before I know exactly what I'm doing :smile:

I know right now, I would explian it choppy enough that I don't know how much help it'd be. I'll look for the info again, and post it when I find it.

ok, well I will probably throw it in, I dont wanna run high boost or anything so it should be all i need. all I wanna do is built B20b block w/ 11:1 cr, and a fully built B16 head.

ok, well I will probably throw it in, I dont wanna run high boost or anything so it should be all i need. all I wanna do is built B20b block w/ 11:1 cr, and a fully built B16 head.

Do you already have all the parts for your build? Let me know how it turns out.

Do you already have all the parts for your build? Let me know how it turns out.

no, not all

just the B20b, JE 11:1 pistons, blockgaurd, oversized radiator(was gonna go into hatch and stock one is sooo small), OBX-R 4-2-1(probably sell for DC 4-1), cold air intake(bought for civic off ebay but didnt come close to fitting, maybe it'll fit on the teg).

I am going to have dark entertainment port my head (anyone heard of this company, its a guy on ebay) and I am gonna get crower stage 2 cams(how much would stage 3 hurt idle/driveability?) dual valve springs/tit retainers, new seals, maybe the pro flo valves or 5 angle valve job(5 angle is on the valves themselves correct?) adj. cam gears, skunk 2 intake manifold, 67mm TB.

block- crower billet rods, all new bearings, ARP rod bolts/head studs.

fuel- aem rail, B&M fuel regulator and fuel pump, RC310cc injectors.

ignition- MSD SCI, irridium plugs

ecu- hondata s200.

back up for racing vettes- NX or NOS 50 shot wet kit.

as soon as i sel my truck/hatch/accord im going to my uncles in southern cali cuz 3rd gen tegs are only about 3k for decent ones with not too bad of mileage. then the engine build begins :biggrin:

no, not all

just the B20b, JE 11:1 pistons, blockgaurd, oversized radiator(was gonna go into hatch and stock one is sooo small), OBX-R 4-2-1(probably sell for DC 4-1), cold air intake(bought for civic off ebay but didnt come close to fitting, maybe it'll fit on the teg).

I am going to have dark entertainment port my head (anyone heard of this company, its a guy on ebay) and I am gonna get crower stage 2 cams(how much would stage 3 hurt idle/driveability?) dual valve springs/tit retainers, new seals, maybe the pro flo valves or 5 angle valve job(5 angle is on the valves themselves correct?) adj. cam gears, skunk 2 intake manifold, 67mm TB.

block- crower billet rods, all new bearings, ARP rod bolts/head studs.

fuel- aem rail, B&M fuel regulator and fuel pump, RC310cc injectors.

ignition- MSD SCI, irridium plugs

ecu- hondata s200.

back up for racing vettes- NX or NOS 50 shot wet kit.

as soon as i sel my truck/hatch/accord im going to my uncles in southern cali cuz 3rd gen tegs are only about 3k for decent ones with not too bad of mileage. then the engine build begins :biggrin:

add a turbo to that list and u got a f'n badass setup....definetly post on ur progression and how everthing turns out :bigthumb:

I was thinking of selling my pistons and goign with like 9:1 or so and putting on a turbo, but I wanna just go all motor and see how fast I can get through the quarter, if i am not satisfied I might eventually pull it out and lower the compression and throw on some boost, but I know i wont right away cuz already the price tag for this is about 2x what im gonan spend on the car, and I know i wanna lower it/17's and a bit of body work. so if iwas too turbo also right away Id be spending 3k on a car and putting like 9k in engine moids right away and I think thats too much to spend all at once on the engine, even 6k is alot of money for speed IMO but oh well, I love driving fast :biggrin:

I was thinking of selling my pistons and goign with like 9:1 or so and putting on a turbo, but I wanna just go all motor and see how fast I can get through the quarter, if i am not satisfied I might eventually pull it out and lower the compression and throw on some boost, but I know i wont right away cuz already the price tag for this is about 2x what im gonan spend on the car, and I know i wanna lower it/17's and a bit of body work. so if iwas too turbo also right away Id be spending 3k on a car and putting like 9k in engine moids right away and I think thats too much to spend all at once on the engine, even 6k is alot of money for speed IMO but oh well, I love driving fast :biggrin:

Yea, of you turbo it later u are gonna have to pull it out and put in lower c/r pistons. But the cost of the turbo kit and new pistons (since you go 11:1 already) does raise the price a bunch, even if you put the kit toghter yourself (which I always recomend). Just promise me one thing please!! Please don't put on a big-ass aluminum wing or anything APC as a part of your body mods, lol. You picked out wheels yet? what about springs/shocks? The Racing Heart Z5000's are slick in black, www.wheelmax.com has a pic.

well, this is my old integra and i want to copy it pretty much. Id like to buy it back just so there isnt one exact copy in my area, but I have never seen it drive by so if i do when im in mine it will be rare that it happened.

http://www.geocities.com/maddmatt02/integra/mar10_03.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/maddmatt02/integra/mar10_04.jpg

I dont wanna put on the red A tho, but yes im gonna go for altezzas, the same style. the integra is one of the cars I think it looks good on. just not preludes/neans/accords,etc... I think one type looks good on a civic but cant remember what its called.

and the tantrums are what i want, I found out they also only weigh 19.2 lbs for a 17, which isnt too light but it is fairly light when i looked at lots of other wheels weights.

I might finish off with a full kit after a while, and am about 99% sure i dont even want any kind of spoiler. and a "tin-foiler" will NEVER appear on any car I ever own. Ive only seen 2 cars in my life where I think it looked alright.

and springs shocks right now im thinking sportlines/KYB AGX. but I liked how low my old integra was and my friends had a 91 integra with a pro kit, and the sportline is only suppose to lower like 1/2 to 3/4" more and his was WAY too high looking. you cant tell in the pic too well, but the front fender practically sat on the tires. if i turned sharp and hit a bump you could hear a slittle squeak when the tire rubbed. and in back you could only see half the tires sidewall, the other half was up in the fender. anyone know what springs lower it this much? and no they werent the cheap coilovers.

one question tho. which you think would win in a race and with exact same skilled dirver(me in both) the above mentioned car with either

[ul]
[li]A) B20b w/ LS head/intake manifold, stock internals, and about 8 pounds of boost(will sleeves handle that)

[li]B) B20b w/ vtec head and everything else listed in the above post.

seems to me like the boosted b20 woudl come out on top but I kinda want all motor cuz i think it will sound alot meaner, and if someone beats me(and their cars turbo'd) then ill have an excuse :evillol:


and i also read somewhere that 200WHP turbo would lose to 200WHP NA in the exact same car/conditions. this true?

i had problems getting the pics to load so if they arent in the pist, here they are

You could get 16x7" Rota slipstreams (only 12 pounds each!) for $899, tires included. Significantly ligher than the tantrums.

I wanna go 17's tho, how much they weigh in 17's? got a link to a pic?

and I can get the tantrums for 650 and khumo ecsta 711 or 712 for 60 each, or I can spend about 90 and get better tires. so for around the same price I can have 17's. plus i think ive seen them before and dont like them, but cant remember what they look like.

http://www.jaydm.com/slipstream.htm

They're not flashy or anything, but the 16's weigh 13.5 pounds each. At this particular site, I don't think they offer 17's, but you could get a set of 16's with Falken Azenis (awesome tires) for $950. Click the "wheel info" and "wheel and tire packages" links to see specs and prices. Hope this helps.

I am not sure if the Racing Hart Z5000 (in any color) is the same wait as, say the racing heart CP-10 and CP-8 wheels, but those wheels are suppose to weight 1 lbs per inch. So the 17" rim is 17 lbs, 18" rim 18lbs, etc. Of course, once you mount the tire, balance it, and add the air, it get a bunch heavier, but thats the same with any wheel, the tire and air add more weight. So, I know the CP-10 (discountinued, good luck, lol) and CP-8 are 17 lbs in 17". I'm not sure where to find them anymore. I checked wheelmax's website, and all they had now was knock-off racing hart...aka fakes. They stopped carrying them. The Z5000 I think is a simlier weight to those 2, and they all should come in a few different colors. BTW, your car looks nice, it was really clean looking. Why did you have to sell it? I admitt, I am notra great fan of chrome altezza's or the red A, but hey, it works on a white car (or silver). I think though, the car looked so clean, all red tails would rock.
Just go
Here is Dazz motorsports website, this link is for the "RH Eveltion" racng harts, and the regular racing harts. Everywhere else I went only had knock-off's. This is the actual distributor, so your good here.
http://www.dazzmotorsports.com/wheels_rhe.asp
http://www.dazzmotorsports.com/wheels_rac.asp

I dont really like those slipstreams, even if they are light. plus I like 17's alot more I like the S7's in silver though. I like my sokudo 8's alot but i dont know how much they weigh since they came on my civic with tires mounted already. I dont wanna treuse them though sinec there are too many chips in the gunmetal part of the rim. and one lip is pretty scuffed up.

I have seen altezzas that look just liike those on my car but the clear was red, but I dont know how they'd look. but i was thinking of them maybe.

and i sold it cuz I only had it for a month and had been pulled overe for center of headlights too low, blue headlights, modified exhaust, illegal; taillights(but then i turned off my lights and said "se the red reflectors" and he said "oh, well hold on a minute" and came back and gave me a speeding ticket before he had even told me he puled me over for that.

and i also got a yticket going with the flow but i was the only car not stock on the freeway around me.

but I have learned i get tickets in whatever i drive so im ready to go back ot the integra.

I dont really like those slipstreams, even if they are light. plus I like 17's alot more I like the S7's in silver though. I like my sokudo 8's alot but i dont know how much they weigh since they came on my civic with tires mounted already. I dont wanna treuse them though sinec there are too many chips in the gunmetal part of the rim. and one lip is pretty scuffed up.

I have seen altezzas that look just liike those on my car but the clear was red, but I dont know how they'd look. but i was thinking of them maybe.

and i sold it cuz I only had it for a month and had been pulled overe for center of headlights too low, blue headlights, modified exhaust, illegal; taillights(but then i turned off my lights and said "se the red reflectors" and he said "oh, well hold on a minute" and came back and gave me a speeding ticket before he had even told me he puled me over for that.

and i also got a yticket going with the flow but i was the only car not stock on the freeway around me.

but I have learned i get tickets in whatever i drive so im ready to go back ot the integra.


Yea, the S7's would look pretty slick on an integra. I say, get those. If they are a little heavier than you wanted....umm...oh well, lol...it'll look nice on a white teg. Also, I like that red tailight surround idea. I say do that, it still keeps a nice clean,red look, but looks different than stock, and it won't detract from the clean lines of the car like chrome would (or dark on white). As for getting pulled over, damn man, thats some crappy luck. Where in Washington do you live? They must be kinda anal over their. Good luck with the new teg, hopefully they'll be nicer this time :)

yeah, the cops suck here, i live on an island, lots of theft and drugs and almost none of oit is ever broken up. but of course theyll give tickets like crazy. if you drive at night they will just follow you for the fun of it, they dont do it overtown though, even on the north end of the island I was driving and passed a cop at 3 AM and i was the only car out and he didnt even look at me.

the thing that really pisses me off though is that i got pulled over 2 times by this cop and get a ticket both times, then i get home from my vacation, trunk popped and passenger door opened. look in to find my new panasonic cd player gone, amp mtx sub and all my cds gone.
call the cops and they come look at the cra ask what was taken and leave, no prints or anything, i know the kid would have top be in the system for them to show up but I later found out who it was and I KNOW the kids prints had to be on file and if they woulda just run the damn prints they probably would have mafde the arrest before the kid had time to sell my shit. and i understand in a big city with rapes/murders/and shit like that and they dont have time but that sort of thing doesnt happen here and they might as well spend their donut eating in front of chevron hanging out time doing some fucking work :mad: :banghead: :angryfire :cya:

For wheels I suggest Konig Heliums (btw they are available as 15s and 17s-bronze and silver colors)...they are light,cheap and attractive. Make sure you get what YOU want though.

I pretty much like 7 and 8 spoke rims, but skinny spokes, the 5 or 6's look too plain for me and any mroe than 8 seems top be too muchj, like hides everythign behind the wheels, i like them really open so when i get that nice AEM big brake kit they'll be shown off good :grinyes:

also anyone know how much velox vx8's weigh, they look like my sokudos but without those damn fake rivets/bolts that can either fal;l out or make them a b!tch to get really clean. the auction says lightweight but doesnt give an actual figure and i know how advertising is so...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38662&item=2430669738

the 17's are 760 with mounted/balanced 205/40/17's (make not listed) and tuner lugs. i put the link for the 18's cuz i think the pic shows them much better.

Those are sweet wheels. How much do they weigh?

??? the auction for thew 18's just says lightweight compared to other 18's that weigh up to as much as 26 lbs per whel. I am hoping osmeone who reads this knows.

Just to clarify things a bit on swaps....just about any motor can be fast if you have enough money to invest. Im running a stock civic HX motor and if anyone knows about them they are complete crap, but im aiming for 15.8 on a stock tuned motor. A friend has an all motor B16 pushing into 12's...

My point is that if you have enough money and the right tuning skills, any motor is a possibility whether its a turbo LS or an all motor SOHC.

Just to clarify things a bit on swaps....just about any motor can be fast if you have enough money to invest. Im running a stock civic HX motor and if anyone knows about them they are complete crap, but im aiming for 15.8 on a stock tuned motor. A friend has an all motor B16 pushing into 12's...

My point is that if you have enough money and the right tuning skills, any motor is a possibility whether its a turbo LS or an all motor SOHC.


Really good point :iceslolan

well, yeah, bu8t the money yuo would have to invest into a 1.5 SOHC to hit 14's, you could just swap in a stokc B18C1 with bolt ons and hit the same times cheaper, and with the extra dough, be even faster. but If you got alot of money and just want to do it with your stock engine just to show that it can be done then that would be the way to go but id start out wiht a better base than a D15

its only a matter of personal preference....also think about the money that could be invested in parts and tuning versus buying that CRVtec swap. Anyone who has built a GOOD CRVtec knows that it takes some bank to get everything.

B20B longblock - 900 shipped at most
VTEC head - say 350
VTEC ECU - say 150
VTEC harness - say 150
oil lines/plug/tee, etc... - 100
10 minutes on the drill press - free
labor - free if you do it yourself
knock sensor - dont know - say 100
VTEC oil pump - dont know - say 100 again

and dont you need a crank fluxuation sensor as well? lets say 100

so then theres a little under 2K, and ive seen everything cheaper than what Ive listed except for the longblock and the last 3 that i havent looked up the price of.

anyways, I personally dont think that the 2k into a 1.5 would be able to keep up with the stock CRVTEC, unless the 2k went towards boost. I mean 2k would buy a cam/upgraded valvetrain, high cr pistons, rods, and boltons. add another grand and you could do whatever you want with it, and then put that same thousand more into the CRVTEC for some 10.5:1's and boltons, and SMOKE the 1.5.

Okay, for starters, I had a D15B7 in my car orignally, now it's a 97 B18B1. I can notice the increase tremdously with the ls (w/ a cold air and cat-back exhaust, only costed like $350 total give or take, I think a little less). Point is, even my girlfriend can tell the difference, the car don't bog on steep hills, or hills on the freeway, the LS motor's low end torque really pulls the light-weight civic. Lets face it, low-end torque rules the streets. Most races, especially street races (if you are into that, I DO NOT street race) are won in the first 60 ft. The LS is a better base to start with, plane and simple. Sure, you can throw 5 grand into a D15, but it stats out with 90-100 flywheel hp, so you need to gain 40-50hp just to CATCH the stock LS in HP. We all know that will cost a lot, it will require a complete re-build on a d15 or you'll most likely blow it up. Thats 5 grand and you are comparable to the LS. There is no replacement for displacement. Say you spend 3k on the LS swap, completed and installed, $2500 if you do it yourself or get a good motor price. I have seen people pull it off for less than that. Thats still 2k more on a bad day, 3 k on a good day. Build yourself a turbo kit, that's plenty of mo ey to do it if you make your own kit. An LS block can handle 12psi on stock internals when tuned right, no problem. SO there you go, 5k 250whp for the LS, or 5k, what, 150, maybe... 180 on the D15? You I'll take the LS, plus it will have gobs more low-end torque than the d15, and isn't even close to maxing out it's pontenial. An LS can achive 400-500hp boosted and build-up. Good luck getting a 400-500hp D15. Sure, a sohn cam d-series can be built up, we all know that. I have seen some very fast ones. But it's alla matter of goals and trade off's. If you want to prove and show the world what you can do with the d-series, by all means do it. For others, a b-series swap or an ls/vtec or cr/vtec are better options. Still, that doesn't change the fact, the LS, or any b-series, ina better base to start with, when it comes to attaining high speed and power. They have mopre potenial for higher output, which translates into a greater pontenail for higher speed. If you want to build-up a d-series, thats cool, but I am sick of this agruement, it's everywhere...."d-series build up is the way to go, b-swaping sucks and is dumb" or "build-up a d? Bad idea." geez, look, we ALL know the b-series is a better base engine to start with, higher intital stock hp and torque output and much greater hp and torque potental. Still, that doesn't mean it's the choice for everyone, like I said earlier, it's about goals. Swapping or building up a b might fit one person's goals, but not anothers. I personally am well aware of what a sohc d-series is capable of, but it's wasn't what I felt I wanted to persue with my money.

Preach it, brotha! :iceslolan

:iagree: eckoman_pdx is right. Let people do what they want to- if you disagree do it constructively- if you can't, than don't answer. I to am tired of people being called stupid or getting a hard time because they want to choose a diff. route. All people want here is some bitchin' info yet most of the time they just get the bitchin' :swear:.

V-tec is not the choice to turbo charge. a non-vtec would be good. I would say B20B since it has lover compression than the B20Z. 12 psi sould be safe to run on a stock motor with adj(retarded) cam gears,a fuel pump,and injectors. 235-26hp would be my est. as far as how much power your motor would make @ the flywheel

You'r V-8 can't touch this!!!! Honda Integra XSi

Most races, especially street races (if you are into that, I DO NOT street race) are won in the first 60 ft.

No true at all. I've raced numerous cars, most of them have a torque advantage on me, and most always they get the holeshot, like in the last race I had with a cavalier. He jumped about half a car ahead, and wound up lossing by about three lengths. he lost because once you convert torque numbers to Hp numbers and factor in rpm range, get your usable powerband, then torque becomes a usless number, so his 150 to my 111 got hammered.

Okay dude, I'm not gonna get into this past this post, because up until the last guy bought this thread uslessly back from the dead, this thread was pretty much dead. Look at the Dates. Other than the last guy's comment out of the blue, the threads been dead for 2 months. I am not saying you couldn't smoke him, racing has ton's to do with the driver. I am guessing you are a probably a pretty good driver. In general, low-end torque rules the streets. Most people will tell you that. The reason I said in general, is because a really good driver can compinsate for this quite a bit. I am guessing you are a good driver. He's probably shifting at a point that drops him out of his powerband, while your shifting at the optimimum point. That's why he maybe alunched a little better, cuz of the torque, but if he's not a good shifter, he's shifting at a point other than the optimum point, dropping him out of his powerband. The result, he ends up not properly using his power and torque. You end up using your power band, while he doesn't optimize his. But don't go calling torque a useless number. Low-end torque is what will pull you up that steep hill without having to high rev, and low end torque will pull you off that line quicker. Sure it'll will give you the quicker 60-ft. You even agree'd. You're right in the respect low end torque alone won't win you anything. Cuz after that 60-ft time and good start, if he doesn't shift properly, he's out of his power band, rendering his torque and power at less then optimal levles, while you juice your motor for every once it's worth. Driver for driver, though, I'll take the low-end personally.

Haha, I haven't seen this thread in awhile.

Haha, I haven't seen this thread in awhile.

No kidding, I saw a post, read the response and my first thought was..WTF, this is a dead thread.