2007 Tahoe No start

This problem is kicking my butt. After jacking up my 2007 Tahoe SSV and adjusting the parking brake shoes, it won't start.

For a portion of the job, I left on the radio, so there was some battery drainage, but i wouldn't think a significant amount. [EDIT] After lowering the truck I started it and backed it off the wheel chocks (tailgate was open as I backed up but why should that matter?) and then shut if off as I got out to remove the chocks. I put some tools in the back, shut the tailgate, and it was at this point that it wouldn't restart.

When I turn the key, the car won't even crank, no click on the starter relay. I swapped the relay no change. All electronics work, charged up battery, can hear the fuel pump cycling when ignition on. All fuses are good.

Car had been driving absolutely fine up til now. What's weird is now the check engine light is on when trying to start (never seen it on before). I let the car sit 30 mins unplugged and no change. I'm going to leave it unplugged overnight and then try again in morning + try to scan. [EDIT] After leaving unplugged all night, no difference, same dang thing. One of the 2 batteries was down to 10.5V, I replaced it with a newer battery, no difference.

Never seen anything like this before, anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,

Alex

This problem is kicking my butt. After jacking up my 2007 Tahoe SSV and adjusting the parking brake shoes, it won't start.

For a portion of the job, I left on the radio, so there was some battery drainage, but i wouldn't think a significant amount. [EDIT] After I finished I started the truck and backed it off the wheel chocks (tailgate was open as I backed up but why should that matter?) and then shut if off as I got out to remove the chocks. I put some tools in the back, shut the tailgate, and it was at this point that it wouldn't restart.

When I turn the key, the car won't even crank, no click on the starter relay. I swapped the relay no change. All electronics work, charged up battery, can hear the fuel pump cycling when ignition on. All fuses are good.

Car had been driving absolutely fine up til now. What's weird is now the check engine light is on when trying to start (never seen it on before). I let the car sit 30 mins unplugged and no change. I'm going to leave it unplugged overnight and then try again in morning + try to scan. [EDIT] After leaving unplugged all night, no difference, same dang thing. One of the 2 batteries was down to 10.5V, I replaced it with a newer battery, no difference.

Never seen anything like this before, anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,

Alex

my guess is the park/neutral switch ...no crank that is a reason possibly..

my guess is the park/neutral switch ...no crank that is a reason possibly..

I was thinking that also - would there be any other indicators of this? I peeked under the dash last night and the wiring looked OK. Is it mounted on the steering column like in the older C/Ks or is it elsewhere?

Try starting it when it is in neutral.

Try starting it when it is in neutral.

Tried that last night no difference.

Tried that last night no difference.

with the key in the run position jump the solenoid at starter see if it will run.

If it does possible wiring problem or ignition switch in the crank mode is bad . also the neutral switch since this sw will only prevent cranking.

don't have a oem wiring diagram for your vehicle ..that would help ..

with the key in the run position jump the solenoid at starter see if it will run.

If it does possible wiring problem or ignition switch in the crank mode is bad . also the neutral switch since this sw will only prevent cranking.

don't have a oem wiring diagram for your vehicle ..that would help ..

Well I'm both relieved and somewhat embarrassed to report that the problem was the starter solenoid. The starter relay was so quiet that i couldn't hear it at first. Once i did i traced signal back to starter, where connections were so corroded it wasn't getting juiced. Replaced the solenoid (which was no easy proposition - looks like someone at GM decided it was a good idea to design a starter motor with a recessed, e-torx screw. Had to grind off some metal to get my e-torx socket in there to remove the old noid.)

Thanks everyone for help and suggestions

the starter solenoid suddenly failing is sort of weird .. normally you get a click but no cranking. with what I said ,, jumping at the starter solenoid , then you know where the problem is..

the starter solenoid suddenly failing is sort of weird .. normally you get a click but no cranking. with what I said ,, jumping at the starter solenoid , then you know where the problem is..

I agree with you, I've never seen one go so quickly like that, working one minute, then not the next and without any indications previously (intermittent starting problems).

The problem was corroded connections.

I'll tell you though, the connections were so corroded, I doubt that jumping the solenoid would even have worked. After removing the whole starter, I tried jumping it on the bench with some big jumper cables...it took multiple tries and some grinding off rust with the alligator clips in order to finally get any connection whatsoever. You may ask, "why didn't you clean off the connections and re-install?" The 12V connector nut was so rusted to the terminal that wrenching it off sheared off the terminal connection, necessitating a new solenoid.

When I installed the new noid/starter, I used dielectric grease profusely on the connections.

I agree with you, I've never seen one go so quickly like that, working one minute, then not the next and without any indications previously (intermittent starting problems).

The problem was corroded connections.

I'll tell you though, the connections were so corroded, I doubt that jumping the solenoid would even have worked. After removing the whole starter, I tried jumping it on the bench with some big jumper cables...it took multiple tries and some grinding off rust with the alligator clips in order to finally get any connection whatsoever. You may ask, "why didn't you clean off the connections and re-install?" The 12V connector nut was so rusted to the terminal that wrenching it off sheared off the terminal connection, necessitating a new solenoid.

When I installed the new noid/starter, I used dielectric grease profusely on the connections.

surprised at all that corrosion in your area . last few years though you have been getting a lot of snow storms..

I usually go over ten years on a starter and connections are not all that corroded .

what / where did you purchase it ?

surprised at all that corrosion in your area . last few years though you have been getting a lot of snow storms..

I usually go over ten years on a starter and connections are not all that corroded .

what / where did you purchase it ?

New York State trooper car...177,000 miles in 7 years. Looking at the configuration, the terminals are easily accessed by a cutout in the front fenderwell flap. Makes for easy maintenance...and lots of splash from road water/salt.

Like I said though, have never seen a starter suddenly go from working fine to all stop. Maybe the fact that these newer Chevy trucks have a "continuous ignition signal" (I forget what proper term is) masks starter connectivity problems. What would be an obvious starter problem on older trucks would not be apparent if the ECM in the newer trucks keeps sending the signal until the truck starts...just a thought.

New York State trooper car...177,000 miles in 7 years. Looking at the configuration, the terminals are easily accessed by a cutout in the front fenderwell flap. Makes for easy maintenance...and lots of splash from road water/salt.

Like I said though, have never seen a starter suddenly go from working fine to all stop. Maybe the fact that these newer Chevy trucks have a "continuous ignition signal" (I forget what proper term is) masks starter connectivity problems. What would be an obvious starter problem on older trucks would not be apparent if the ECM in the newer trucks keeps sending the signal until the truck starts...just a thought.

you may want to consider extending down the inner fender . I did this on my impala 1996 and the 2000 silverado. engine bay /manifolds stay pretty well protected. I used rubber roofing and rivets with washers s/steel ..driver side on silverado has all the lines brake/fuel makes these less damaged.... It works ! dropped down about 3 inches .

being police vehicle this would explain all the corrosion ..NY state..

you may want to consider extending down the inner fender . I did this on my impala 1996 and the 2000 silverado. engine bay /manifolds stay pretty well protected. I used rubber roofing and rivets with washers s/steel ..driver side on silverado has all the lines brake/fuel makes these less damaged.... It works ! dropped down about 3 inches .

being police vehicle this would explain all the corrosion ..NY state..

Great idea, I'll probably do this on both the Tahoe and '93 K1500 as that one is completely missing the fender flaps.

Great idea, I'll probably do this on both the Tahoe and '93 K1500 as that one is completely missing the fender flaps.

check out my install pictures . this install was done back in 2002..http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1056821&highlight=rubber+roofing+protection