1995 Maxima problem staying on

My 95 maxima wont stay on unless i hold the the gas for about 20 seconds after that it stays on. I changed the mass air flow sensor and cleaned the air idle valve. since doing this my idle is more constant once it stays on. the car idle when warm it idle to about 1200 rpm (pretty high idle). when i shift the car to drive rpm drops to 650-700 rpm. So im trying to figure out who to turn the car on with only using the key and not holding the gas pedal down for about 20 seconds and would like to adjust my idle throttle to idle between 800-1000 rpm in park. thanks in advance for any help.

My 95 maxima wont stay on unless i hold the the gas for about 20 seconds after that it stays on. I changed the mass air flow sensor and cleaned the air idle valve. since doing this my idle is more constant once it stays on. the car idle when warm it idle to about 1200 rpm (pretty high idle). when i shift the car to drive rpm drops to 650-700 rpm. So im trying to figure out who to turn the car on with only using the key and not holding the gas pedal down for about 20 seconds and would like to adjust my idle throttle to idle between 800-1000 rpm in park. thanks in advance for any help.

At least bad temp signal can cause this. Note that there is one sensor just for the driver = dash gauge, and by just lookin on that, all seems to work. As they say: its just for the russians ... us all travelers who must pay fully of the tax liquid hoax. Millions engines today work cold='open-loop' - based on this wrong info consuming 20% more fuel: do the math...

The complicator has other info via another temp sensor, if rotten, seek/replace the 2wire sensor. Why that structure is such, no logical reason but the tinhat version above.

Meanwhile, known oil/gas reserves top 5000 years forward... no shortage, never. US is already self reliant, Saudi-wargames =bigger dash hoax etc