Pulling to the left

I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 with 198,000 miles. I was on the PA turnpike a few days ago and notice that when I take my hand off the wheel, the truck pulls to the left. I have to hold the steering wheel center to keep it straight. When I let go, it makes a slight turn to the left.

I did notice that I had a bad ball joint on the passenger side. So I replaced the upper control arm with a new ball joint included and did the lower ball joint on the passenger side since I already had everything apart. I just got my truck aligned this morning and still am having the same pulling issue. The dealership couldn't figure it out either. Here are the specs from the alignment printout:

Front Left Camber:
Before: -0.7; Actual: 0.0

Front Left Toe:
Before: 0.13; Actual: 0.01

Front Right Camber:
Before: 0.7; Actual: 0.0

Front Right Toe:
Before: 0.02; Actual: 0.00

I do rotate the tires every 5,000 miles and are all wearing evenly.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

What are the caster readings?

As Max brought up, we need to see the caster readings. It's possible you have a tire causing the pull also. You can swap the front tires side to side and see if the pull changes. If it's not a tire pull, the camber looks good, your alignment guy may need to adjust the caster split (cross caster) to eliminate the pull. That basically means to increase the caster on the left and decrease the caster on the right while staying in a given tolerance. More times then not though, I have found a pull left is a tire problem.

Also need thrust angle to make sure the frame and rear axle are square, forgot about that.

I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 with 198,000 miles. I was on the PA turnpike a few days ago and notice that when I take my hand off the wheel, the truck pulls to the left. I have to hold the steering wheel center to keep it straight. When I let go, it makes a slight turn to the left.

I did notice that I had a bad ball joint on the passenger side. So I replaced the upper control arm with a new ball joint included and did the lower ball joint on the passenger side since I already had everything apart. I just got my truck aligned this morning and still am having the same pulling issue. The dealership couldn't figure it out either. Here are the specs from the alignment printout:

Front Left Camber:
Before: -0.7; Actual: 0.0

Front Left Toe:
Before: 0.13; Actual: 0.01

Front Right Camber:
Before: 0.7; Actual: 0.0

Front Right Toe:
Before: 0.02; Actual: 0.00

I do rotate the tires every 5,000 miles and are all wearing evenly.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

this is usually the hub bearing on the driver side. with the miles on it I would be surprised it was good.

with proper tire wear the alignment is not doing it.......

this is usually the hub bearing on the driver side. with the miles on it I would be surprised it was good.

with proper tire wear the alignment is not doing it.......

The hub bearing on the driver side has no been replaced. I know the passenger side has.

Someone told me that the torsion bars may have been the issue. So I parked the truck in a level garage and measured the ride height of the front end. The passenger side was 35 inches from the ground to the bottom of the fender, but the driver side was 35 1/4 inches. So I adjusted the torsion key on the driver side and that seems to have done the trick. The driver side is now down to 35 inches and the truck drives straight as an arrow. I wonder if I need another alignment now.

I did swap the two front tires which didn't seem the do anything, and the sheet the dealer gave me didn't give me any caster readings. The tires have about 30,000 miles on them and there is about 50-60% tread left on all the tires. I will keep a close eye on this, but everything seems to be OK for now.

The hub bearing on the driver side has no been replaced. I know the passenger side has.

Someone told me that the torsion bars may have been the issue. So I parked the truck in a level garage and measured the ride height of the front end. The passenger side was 35 inches from the ground to the bottom of the fender, but the driver side was 35 1/4 inches. So I adjusted the torsion key on the driver side and that seems to have done the trick. The driver side is now down to 35 inches and the truck drives straight as an arrow. I wonder if I need another alignment now.

I did swap the two front tires which didn't seem the do anything, and the sheet the dealer gave me didn't give me any caster readings. The tires have about 30,000 miles on them and there is about 50-60% tread left on all the tires. I will keep a close eye on this, but everything seems to be OK for now.

its is possible that when at hyway speed the hub bearings will heat up , then you get the left drift. anyway you will hear growl if the bearings get bad enough. also the ABS will start to fail so don't follow to closely the vehicles in front of you.

I doubt the 1/4 in of height diff was an issue. the changing of vehicle height will throw off the toe slightly. higher more toe lower less toe. if you have the toe too little the vehicle will tend to wander when on a uneven road.

I do my own alignments .

The hub bearing on the driver side has no been replaced. I know the passenger side has.

Someone told me that the torsion bars may have been the issue. So I parked the truck in a level garage and measured the ride height of the front end. The passenger side was 35 inches from the ground to the bottom of the fender, but the driver side was 35 1/4 inches. So I adjusted the torsion key on the driver side and that seems to have done the trick. The driver side is now down to 35 inches and the truck drives straight as an arrow. I wonder if I need another alignment now.

I did swap the two front tires which didn't seem the do anything, and the sheet the dealer gave me didn't give me any caster readings. The tires have about 30,000 miles on them and there is about 50-60% tread left on all the tires. I will keep a close eye on this, but everything seems to be OK for now.

After adjusting the torsion bar, you should have the alignment checked, but not at the same place! What kind of alignment shop does not measure caster?!
Adjusting the torsion bar will change the all the settings (caster, camber and toe).

After adjusting the torsion bar, you should have the alignment checked, but not at the same place! What kind of alignment shop does not measure caster?!
Adjusting the torsion bar will change the all the settings (caster, camber and toe).

Agreed on all counts, all my printouts show all 3 setting plus thust angle and set back.

Agreed on all counts, all my printouts show all 3 setting plus thust angle and set back.

Most will also show SAI and IA (Steering Axis Inclination, Included Angle) which are helpful in diagnosing frame and suspension damage.