2000 Windstar Won't Start from Time to Time

I have a 2000 Windstar SE with 120k miles. Sometimes, it didn't want to start. I turned the key and nothings happened. No cranking. I couldn't hear anything. I tried a few more times and then the van started and run very smoothly.

First time this happened was in August. It was OK in September. This happened a few more times in October. It was getting wore the past couple of weeks, almost once every other day. Yesterday, I could not start the van for two or three minutes.

Today is the worst. I could not start it all day. I have been doing web search the whole evening, trying to figure out why. Then a hour ago, I turned the key and the van started again. I have tried a few more times since without problem.

The battery is only 7 months old and still has 12.3v. I checked the PCM diode and it looked perfect.

I don't know what is going on. Luckily, the van is inside my garage now. But I'm afraid of driving it out tomorrow. It may die away from home.

Anybody had a similar problem and found out the cause?

Try starting in neutral next time or at least gently move the shifter. It sounds like a bad or dying TR sensor (used to be known as "neutral safety switch")

Yes, I did try moving the shifter to neutral and moving the shifter back and forth a few times and did not have success. Is it easy to check and replace the TR sensor myself?

Try starting in neutral next time or at least gently move the shifter. It sounds like a bad or dying TR sensor (used to be known as "neutral safety switch")

Yes, it's easy - just under the airbox. I'll attach the instructions for you.

You do NOT need that "special tool"; just line it up the same way as the one you remove. Also, set e-brake and put shifter in neutral before beginning as the replacements come in neutral position.

If you want to test your existing one, test resistance on pins #2, #3, #4, #5,and #6. They should all be less than 5 ohms. (If looking at the sensor with the lock tab connector on top, pin #1 is top right, #2 is one to the left of that, and all the way to the end which is pin #6.)

Yes, I did try moving the shifter to neutral and moving the shifter back and forth a few times and did not have success. Is is it easy to check and replace the TR sensor myself?

Do you any lights pn the dash when you turn the key on at the time it happens??? (CEL< etc.)


Have you checked the battery cables for any corrision of the cable wire itself not just the connector??

Yes, all the usual lights on the dash were on when I turned the key.

The headlights were pretty strong too when I turned them on.

Do you any lights pn the dash when you turn the key on at the time it happens??? (CEL< etc.)


Have you checked the battery cables for any corrision of the cable wire itself not just the connector??

I located the sensor. It seems very easy to reach if I remove the airflow box.

I ordered the transmission range sensor from Pep Boys (They still call it neutral safety switch) and will pick up it tomorrow morning. Hopefully, by tomorrow afternoon, I will be confident to drive my Windstar again. :smile:

Yes, it's easy - just under the airbox. I'll attach the instructions for you.

You do NOT need that "special tool"; just line it up the same way as the one you remove. Also, set e-brake and put shifter in neutral before beginning as the replacements come in neutral position.

If you want to test your existing one, test resistance on pins #2, #3, #4, #5,and #6. They should all be less than 5 ohms. (If looking at the sensor with the lock tab connector on top, pin #1 is top right, #2 is one to the left of that, and all the way to the end which is pin #6.)

I spent two hours to replace the transmission range sensor this afternoon. I can start my van now. Since I was still able to start the van with the old TRS just before the replacement, I can't be 100% sure that the problem is fixed. I will report back.

I also found a useful YouTube clip for this replacement job.

Change your safety neutral switch on a Ford Windstar 2000
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3inAO9gORh0

I have had your symptoms several times. I have always come back to the relays near the battery. In particular I find the "fuel pump relay" and the "PCM relay" to be problem makers. I keep new relays and the relay layout drawing (glove box manual) to aid during a relay replacement.

It is a good idea to keep new relays in the van. Where did you get these relays? I did a search. The auto parts stores do not seem to have them in stock. I want to get them tomorrow.

I have had your symptoms several times. I have always come back to the relays near the battery. In particular I find the "fuel pump relay" and the "PCM relay" to be problem makers. I keep new relays and the relay layout drawing (glove box manual) to aid during a relay replacement.

If you were to buy a complete "set" for the '99, you would buy 4 relays .... that is, there are 4 different styles used.

But most of the relays are only two of the styles. I buy my spare relays from the Ford spare parts counter. Usually about $10 each.

I was able to purchase a PCM relay at an O'Reilly store this morning. It was a $12.49 part made by BWD, Part # R3177 (Ford OEM Part # is FOAB 14B192-AA). This store did not have the fuel pump relay in stock (Import Direct Ignition, Part # 25-0136 = Ford OEM Part # F57B 14B192-AA). Since the fuel pump relay and the rear wiper relay are the same type, I figure I can always swap them in an emergency situation.

I keep the PCM relay in the glove box. I will report back should I need to use it.

If you were to buy a complete "set" for the '99, you would buy 4 relays .... that is, there are 4 different styles used.

But most of the relays are only two of the styles. I buy my spare relays from the Ford spare parts counter. Usually about $10 each.

I could not start my 2000 Windstar again this morning. I replace the transmission range sensor on 11/18/12 and was able to start the van until today.

I switched the fuel pump relay and the rear wiper relay, but could not start the van. So I switched them back. In the process, I accidentally drop the rear wiper realy below the relay/fuse box next to the battery and could not get it out. Back luck.

Next, I replaced the PCM relay with a new one and still could not start the van. I waited desperately for a few minutes (trying to get the rear wiper relay out at mean time) and gave one last try. The van started! So, I drove to work without the rear wiper relay installed. I don't know if I will be able to start the van after work.

I also noticed the van was rough on idle the past month. The engine seemed vibrating once every two seconds at idle. I cleaned the idle air control valve and replaced the PCV vacuum tube without seeing much improvement. Is this related to the non-starting problem?

If the TR sensor didn't fix it (not a waste IMHO -- they do go bad), my only other guess would be a bad wire somewhere. How to find that is another story. The intermittent issues like this are the worst.

When you say it doesn't start, is there a "click" or is it completely dead? (as if you never turned the key at all..) Do lights on the dash do anything?

It was completely dead. I could hear the fuel flowing. No other sound at all. The usual lights on dash were on when I turned the key.

The non-starting happened twice on 11/28/12, once in the morning and once in the late afternoon after work. I just waited for a few minutes. Then the van started. Any way, I removed the battery and got the rear wiper relay out that evening.

I was able to start the van after that day until this morning. The same old story. I kept trying for a few minutes and the van eventually started. Indeed, it was very frustrating to deal with the intermittent issues like this. Something is wrong. Just don't know what it is.

If the TR sensor didn't fix it (not a waste IMHO -- they do go bad), my only other guess would be a bad wire somewhere. How to find that is another story. The intermittent issues like this are the worst.

When you say it doesn't start, is there a "click" or is it completely dead? (as if you never turned the key at all..) Do lights on the dash do anything?

It is a good idea to keep new relays in the van. Where did you get these relays?

I have tons of relays plucked from junkyard Winnies. I usually just take the whole fuse box from the engine compartment, LKQ only charges $10 for the whole thing. You get the fuses as a bonus.

I also noticed the van was rough on idle the past month. The engine seemed vibrating once every two seconds at idle. I cleaned the idle air control valve and replaced the PCV vacuum tube without seeing much improvement. Is this related to the non-starting problem?

Probably not related to the no-start, sounds like cylinder misfire. For some reason on the '00 misfire does not always cause CEL to flash as it should. Misfire event is to be expected on a vehicle that age and usually not a big deal to fix. Most likely suspect is a shot spark plug but also check cables and coil pack. Cables on the '99 and '00 Winnies rarely fail, they are in fact of unusually high quality for OEM material.

Coil pack is pretty sturdy but can develop isolator issues that result in no-spark faults, this will typically only affect one cylinder. This requires replacing the coil pack. New pack is about $120 and relatively easy to replace after removing the cowl. Take note that '99 and '00 Winnies do not use the same coil pack as '01 to '03 models, not all parts outlets seem to be aware of this. Cable boots are also very different.

I would replace the plugs no matter what unless they are recent. My coil pack failed last month and when replacing it I checked the plugs and noticed they were the originals and falling apart. It's easy to tell if they are the original plugs, those were only available at the Essex (Windsor) plant during original manufacturing and have non-matching part numbers depending on which side of the engine they are located. You can replace them with any of the double-platinum plugs listed by Ford as proper replacements.

I was guessing too that one of the cylinders was misfiring and thinking of replacing the front three spark plugs first. This is easy to do and I may have a 50% chance to fix the problem. If the problem persists, I will then remove the cowl and replace the back three plugs and the coil pack.

The strange thing happened. In the past three days, the rough idle disappeared and I no longer felt the stumbling of the engine at the idle. I remembered that the engine oil was really low when I checked it on 11/28/12. I had to add three quarts of oil to make it at full level. I don't know. Maybe the rough idle was related to the low engine oil level. I normally add one quart of oil every 1000 miles. The engine seems now burning more oil than before.

Still, I don't know when the non-starting problem will come back. I pray every time before I turn the ignition key.

You can reach plugs #2 and #3 easily from underneath (and #1 from around the side with a little patience.)

It's so easy to remove the cowl, why fight to reach them from underneath? :)

Your problems is still "no cranking", correct?

If you want, you can install a insulated jumper wire...14 ga or so...3 feet or so... with one end permanently connected to the starter solenoid ... and the other end loosely located/tied-off near the battery. Remove about an inch of insulation on the battery end. Anytime you have a no-crank, just leave the key on "on" position, tranny in P or N ... HANDBRAKE ON, and touch the bare end of the jumper wire to the positive post of the battery. This is a garanteed approach ... only if the battery is dead, or the starter motor not working ... can if fail.

I used this approach for many thousands of miles ... when I did not want to take the time to fool with relays or whatever. Especially handy in bad weather!

Yes, still "no cranking" from time to time. It happened in two separate days after I replaced the transmission range sensor a month ago, although not as frequent as before the replacement. Playing with the relays did not seem to work.

I was able to start the van the past 10 days or so. But I am not sure that the no-starting will not come back.

Installing a jumper wire sounds a great idea so that I won't get stranded. Is it easy to do so? Is there any diagram/picture that you can direct me to?

Your problems is still "no cranking", correct?

If you want, you can install a insulated jumper wire...14 ga or so...3 feet or so... with one end permanently connected to the starter solenoid ... and the other end loosely located/tied-off near the battery. Remove about an inch of insulation on the battery end. Anytime you have a no-crank, just leave the key on "on" position, tranny in P or N ... HANDBRAKE ON, and touch the bare end of the jumper wire to the positive post of the battery. This is a garanteed approach ... only if the battery is dead, or the starter motor not working ... can if fail.

I used this approach for many thousands of miles ... when I did not want to take the time to fool with relays or whatever. Especially handy in bad weather!

I could not start my 2000 Windstar again this morning. I replace the transmission range sensor on 11/18/12 and was able to start the van until today.?

I have had this problem numerous times. What I do is open the hood, and wrench or work the left battery terminal cable, the relay box makes a "click", and the lights turn on. You can check the front grounding/hood opening cable, to see if the holder is broken. Or, clean off the terminals. It usually starts up a day or two after the temp drops relative to the temperature before that.

It's usually mircoscopic stuff on the temrinal heads. I have bought the felt pads, used a head cleaner, and then covered it with vaseline. It still happens, no matter what.

I have had this problem numerous times. What I do is open the hood, and wrench or work the left battery terminal cable, the relay box makes a "click", and the lights turn on. You can check the front grounding/hood opening cable, to see if the holder is broken. Or, clean off the terminals. It usually starts up a day or two after the temp drops relative to the temperature before that.

It's usually mircoscopic stuff on the temrinal heads. I have bought the felt pads, used a head cleaner, and then covered it with vaseline. It still happens, no matter what.

I cannot start my van again since Friday. I tried your method and cleaned the negative post of the battery as much as I could. When I reconnected the cable, I heard the "click" sound from the relay box. Still, the van does not start.

I would like to try the method that 12Ounce described, connecting a jumper wire between the starter solenoid and the battery positive post. I already got a wire. But I don't know exactly where the starter solenoid is located. Can anybody post a link or picture to help me. Thanks in advance.

The starter solenoid is the smaller "cylinder" attached to the bigger one on the starter. In some vehicles (maybe earlier Windstars) it was a separately replaceable component.

Here's a picture of a starter for a windstar (the one I'm using, in fact). The solenoid is the smaller tube mounted on top of the motor that turns the flywheel.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=474155&cc=1385782

The starter solenoid is the smaller "cylinder" attached to the bigger one on the starter. In some vehicles (maybe earlier Windstars) it was a separately replaceable component.

Thanks, Can I get to the starter solenoid from the engine compartment when I open the hood? Or I have to go underneath. I have the Haynes book for Windstar 1995-2001. But it does not have a good picture showing the exact location of the starter solenoid.

Thanks, Can I get to the starter solenoid from the engine compartment when I open the hood? Or I have to go underneath, I have the Haynes book for Windstar 1995-2001. But it does not have a good picture showing the exact location of the starter solenoid.

Look at this link, it may help you:

http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/ford-windstar/6646-98-ford-windstar-limited-3-8l-starter-questions.html

Underneath. It's right in front between the engine and transmission. Crawl under the front bumper in the middle and you'll see it.

I followed your instruction to connect a jumper wire between the starter solenoid and the battery positive post. The van did not start. Nothing happened. Now, I'm thinking that the starter is probably broken after all. Is the replacement of the starter a very challenging task?

There are two cables coming out of the starter. I connected the jumper wire to the smaller one in my attempt.

Your problems is still "no cranking", correct?

If you want, you can install a insulated jumper wire...14 ga or so...3 feet or so... with one end permanently connected to the starter solenoid ... and the other end loosely located/tied-off near the battery. Remove about an inch of insulation on the battery end. Anytime you have a no-crank, just leave the key on "on" position, tranny in P or N ... HANDBRAKE ON, and touch the bare end of the jumper wire to the positive post of the battery. This is a garanteed approach ... only if the battery is dead, or the starter motor not working ... can if fail.

I used this approach for many thousands of miles ... when I did not want to take the time to fool with relays or whatever. Especially handy in bad weather!

It's very easy to replace. Disconnect battery ground (negative), disconnect the electrical connections you already saw, and remove the 2 bolts that hold it on. Reverse that with the new one. The solenoid could be sticking causing intermittent start issues like you're having. Given that a new one is <$100 generally, I'd give that a try. If a wire connected directly to the power post didn't start it, it's pretty safe to say it's a goner.

I got a new one (not rebuilt) from advance auto for about $88 with a coupon.

I replaced the starter on 3/2/13. The van started right after the replacement. So far, I have not experienced the no-start again. It looked like that my van's symptom was related to a dying starter.

Indeed, it was very easy to replace the starter. I finished the task without even raising the van. I bought a rebuilt starter on-line from Autozone for $80 after a 20% off coupon.

It's very easy to replace. Disconnect battery ground (negative), disconnect the electrical connections you already saw, and remove the 2 bolts that hold it on. Reverse that with the new one. The solenoid could be sticking causing intermittent start issues like you're having. Given that a new one is <$100 generally, I'd give that a try. If a wire connected directly to the power post didn't start it, it's pretty safe to say it's a goner.

I got a new one (not rebuilt) from advance auto for about $88 with a coupon.

My Windstar is 2001. I had the same problem that not start time to time.
My mechanic replaced a STARTER INTERRUPT RELAY switch. The switch box is located in the under the hood. The location number is #302 in the switch box. It is easy to replace. You can do it yourself.