Changed Spark Plugs 2002 Windstar 3.8L

Hi all, I just changed the spark plugs in my 2002 Windstar 3.8L and wanted to share a few notes.

Plugs were probably original. I just changed them at 134K miles. Why change them sooner if they were still running great? :grinyes:

The front 3 were easily accessible. Passenger side front cylinder is #4. Drivers side front cylinder is #6. I removed the spark plug wires, then squirted the plugs good with PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst (www.blastercorp.com (http://www.blastercorp.com)). Then let them sit for a while (maybe 15-30 minutes), then removed the old plugs. I suspect this helped a lot, as they came loose fairly easily.

The rear 3 were the challenge. I had the luxury of working on a lift. Passenger side rear cylinder is #1, drivers side rear is #3. Center is #2.

Accessing #3 and #2 was not bad from the bottom, use your left arm.

Accessing #1 was a little harder, I was able to access using my left arm (run it up by the tiny hole by the foil) and use my right arm up off to the right. Right arm was in position to help push a tool up or turn a wrench.

For #2 and #3 I was able to use a spark plug socket, short extension, and short 3/8" racket to loosen/tighten the plugs.

For #1 I used a spark plug socket, bendable adapter and short 3/8" rachet. The normal 3" extension was too long, using no extension was too short.

For the rear I used the same approach, pulled the spark plug wires and soaked around each plug well with the PB Blaster. The PB blaster is available in a smaller can, which I was able to work up next to the spark plugs to soak them. Again, I waited a while for the PB Blaster to soak in, then was able to remove the plugs without difficulty (except the cramped location).

When inserting the replacement plugs, I coated the threads with anti-seize, then made sure they were threading in well by hand before using a wrench.

Doing this on a lift worked great. I wouldn't have wanted to try to do this just jacking up the front end with jack stands.

Some of the plugs were in pretty bad shape. The tiny post (grounding post?) on some of the plugs had shrunk quite a bit or was misshapen (had a cone shape on top or a slanted slice off the top).

I followed recommendations from this forum and purchased replacement plugs AutoLite double platinum (thanks Wiswind). I would like to avoid replacing them again as long as possible. :wink:

Hello, thanks for the detailed write up, I am needing to do this soon as I just turned over 95k on my Winnie and as the original owner, I know my plugs are the factory ones.

Couple questions, did you not remove the cowl to have top access to the rear plugs? That is only a 10 minute job and I have done that several times already and its very easy. I have heard of others getting to the rear 3 plugs from underneath but recall that some found top access easier once the cowl was removed.

You did not mention replacing the wires. At 134k miles and 10 year old, I would definitely have changed them if you did not. I have bought the double platinum OEM plugs, new Motorcraft wire set and an OEM Ford ignition module. I will replace all the electrical together as total cost was only about $120 and is well spent funds for getting all new ignition components.

I will use the PB blaster also as it was a concern to remove these 12 yo plugs, thanks for that tip. I have hi temp anti seize and will coat the threads on the new ones also. I have seen others post that it is not recommended but I don't know why as long as you use a minimal amount only.

Couple questions, did you not remove the cowl to have top access to the rear plugs? That is only a 10 minute job and I have done that several times already and its very easy. I have heard of others getting to the rear 3 plugs from underneath but recall that some found top access easier once the cowl was removed.

You did not mention replacing the wires. At 134k miles and 10 year old, I would definitely have changed them if you did not. I have bought the double platinum OEM plugs, new Motorcraft wire set and an OEM Ford ignition module. I will replace all the electrical together as total cost was only about $120 and is well spent funds for getting all new ignition components.

I will use the PB blaster also as it was a concern to remove these 12 yo plugs, thanks for that tip. I have hi temp anti seize and will coat the threads on the new ones also. I have seen others post that it is not recommended but I don't know why as long as you use a minimal amount only.

No, I didn't remove the cowl because I didn't know how or how much work it would have been. Sounds like removing the cowl would have been helpful for accessing the coil and related spark plug wires (I also changed the coil, see other post).

I accessed the rear three plugs from the bottom of the vehicle. As I said, I had the luxury of working with the car up on a lift. Made accessing the bottom much easier!

Another tip, if working from the bottom, you will want the vehicle to be fairly cool when you do this project. You're working with your face by the exhaust system.

I was planning to replace the wires, then got tight on time so just replaced the plugs and coil. I will probably go ahead and replace the wires as well. I kind of hate to, though, because the original wires still look great. I ran the car at night and they were not arcing. Also, the original wires have the cylinder numbers written down the side on them, how cool is that??? :iceslolan

Do I need to replace the ignition module? What is that? Mine is probably still original (2002 3.8L).

I didn't know using the anti-seize was not recommended. I didn't use a high-temp version, just the normal stuff. The guys that staff the shop said it would be a good idea to use it (a small amount), and I knew I didn't want the plugs to get locked in place. I used a small amount on each, wiped it well into the threads to coat them and also to remove any excess - being careful not to get any of it on the business end of the spark plug.

I don't claim to be an expert mechanic, so don't go by what I'm sharing here if the experts are giving different advice. I just slowly worked my way through this project and was very pleased to have it done. The coil badly needed to be replaced and the car was barely running when I limped it into the shop. Replaced plugs and coil, and now it runs great again! :)

Having also replaced my spark plugs without removing the cowl:

Yes, removing the cowl is worth it. Everything is readily accessible, and the cowl only takes about 20 minutes to pull off.

I'll also second the recommendation for Autolite double platinum plugs.

I also took my wiper cowl off. I changed all plugs during my intake manifold code fix. It's been years so I can't refer to the code I had, but the fix involved removing the manifold putting new gaskets on the mount bolts. I also bought the ultra platinum spark plugs, used anti seize and torqued them up. I put the good plugs in because it isn't a job I wanted to do again in 30k miles or so.

remove the cowl it wor not laying on your back remove the wipers 15 mm then remove 5or 6 little plactic clips remove cowl then disconnect the wipr moter by the brake resoivor remove all the screws around the plactic vent and 4 bolt10mm by each fender pull that cowl out of the way should take about 35min for that phase all is wide open now it looks harder than it is good luck you can chang the struts alse this way

I've changed the plugs on my '01 twice now and (for me) it was much easier getting the rear plugs from underneath.

On my '96, 3.8L, I drove the front wheels up onto steel ramps....Put the transmission into PARK, set the parking brake and also blocked the rear wheels.
Then I was able to easily get at the 3 rear plugs from under the vehicle.
One tip.....I like to remove ONLY 1 spark plug wire at a time ......so that it is pretty hard to plug them into the wrong spot.

Ignition module.....I would NOT replace that unless there is a specific failure wiht that.
The ignition module is part of the computer.......which is why they call it PCM, Powertrain Control Module.
In other words.......that would be the whole computer module.
The PCM drives the primary side of each of the 3 coils in the coil pack directly.
There is +12 Volts sitting at 1 end of the primary winding and the PCM connect the other end to ground for a short time when it is time to fire the spark plugs connected to it.


I am guessing that what was being refered to was the Coil Pack.....which is where the other end of all the spark plug wires plug into.
Those seem to be a common failure item.....so Replacing that while you are doing the spark plug wires is a good idea....since you are there anyhow.
The coil pack contains 3 coils......a spark plug connected to each end of the secondary (high voltage winding) the coil......so 1 end delivers a positive charge spark and the other end delivers a negative charge spark.
What this means is that 1 end will wear the center electrode of the spark plug more and the other end of the coil will deliver a spark that will wear the ground tab more.
THIS is why you need the DOUBLE platinum spark plugs, which have the platinum enhancement on the ground tab as well as the center electrode.
The double platinum spark plugs will wear more evenly over time.
For messing with the coil pack (which you have to if you are replacing the spark plug wires), removal of the windshield wiper cowl is a big help.
TAKE YOUR time and be careful to avoid plugging the spark plug wires into the wrong spots on the coil pack.....has been known to happen as it is easy to do.

As a side note....changing the spark plugs in my Windstar was MUCH easier than on my 2003 Toyota Sienna........as each spark plug has the coil right on the spark plug, I have to remove the upper intake manifold to change the rear plugs (on the Sienna).
With the upper intake manifold in place, there is not enough clearance to remove the coil from the plug.
Like the Windstar....the plugs are rated for over 100K miles....and I made SURE to use the correct plug for the vehicle.

I am guessing that what was being referred to was the Coil Pack.....which is where the other end of all the spark plug wires plug into.
Those seem to be a common failure item.....so Replacing that while you are doing the spark plug wires is a good idea....since you are there anyhow.
You are correct, I mis-named the item I bought and plan to replace, it is indeed the Coil Pack.

Cheese,

I just completed the spark plug change on my 2002 Windstar. 3 hours under car for the first 3, and about 10 minutes changing the front 3.

Not fun, but glad I did it myself versus paying someone else to do it for me. They look to be the original plugs and the van has 150,000 miles.


Cost:
$44 for 12000lb test ramps
$20 for double plat autolite plugs
$1 for spark plug socket

Much better than $350-$500 quote from mechanic to do.