1999 astro dies restart 15 min later
FishFind
05-11-2012, 01:38 PM
My neighbor has a Astro van
1999 4.3l automatic
He is having his van run for about 25-30 minutes and then stall out and die. It will not restart unless you wait about 15min or so and do it again.
It reaches 195 and runs find for at least 10 min after reaching temp.
63psi on the fuel.
no security light.
DTC is misfire on cyl 4 but may be due to a wire not being tight. I will check it out.
I am not sure where to go from here.
Tested a new MAF and no difference. I am thing next maybe ignition switch or fuel pressure regulator.
1999 4.3l automatic
He is having his van run for about 25-30 minutes and then stall out and die. It will not restart unless you wait about 15min or so and do it again.
It reaches 195 and runs find for at least 10 min after reaching temp.
63psi on the fuel.
no security light.
DTC is misfire on cyl 4 but may be due to a wire not being tight. I will check it out.
I am not sure where to go from here.
Tested a new MAF and no difference. I am thing next maybe ignition switch or fuel pressure regulator.
DeltaP
05-11-2012, 03:56 PM
As many Astros as I've worked on with these symptoms and others I'd take a long hard look at that fuel pump and it's circuit. Even if its been replaced recently. Theres alot of bad aftermarket pumps being sold. Backprobe the power to the pump and monitor it to see if it quits. Don't forget to check the oil pressure switch circuit. Yeah it runs through there too. Bad ground circuits are popular also. A clogged screen will weaken the pump and overheat it. Hope this helps.
FishFind
05-11-2012, 04:33 PM
The pump is brand new. I will do a check on the pressure again and check the electric. Ill check the pressure when it stops running also...
Now what is it you said to do on the oil?? I did notice that his oil gauge was bouncing around a bit.
Now what is it you said to do on the oil?? I did notice that his oil gauge was bouncing around a bit.
DeltaP
05-12-2012, 09:18 AM
The fuel pump circuit runs through the oil pressure circuit. In the event that theres an interruption of oil pressure the loss of signal will shut off power to the fuel pump. (simple version).
MT-2500
05-12-2012, 09:57 AM
The pump is brand new. I will do a check on the pressure again and check the electric. Ill check the pressure when it stops running also...
Now what is it you said to do on the oil?? I did notice that his oil gauge was bouncing around a bit.
Brand new does not say it can not be bad.
I have saw a lot of Airtex/aftermarket not even make it out the door.
New can be bad or junk or filter or fuel pump electrical circuit/wiring can be bad.
Frst check for lose of spark or fuel pressure up to specs. when it will not restart.
If main fuel pump pressure circuit is ok low oil pressure switch will not shut off fuel pump.
Even if it has one it is only a saftey switch to keep fuel pump circuit (engine) running if main fuel pump relay (circuit ) fails.
Now what is it you said to do on the oil?? I did notice that his oil gauge was bouncing around a bit.
Brand new does not say it can not be bad.
I have saw a lot of Airtex/aftermarket not even make it out the door.
New can be bad or junk or filter or fuel pump electrical circuit/wiring can be bad.
Frst check for lose of spark or fuel pressure up to specs. when it will not restart.
If main fuel pump pressure circuit is ok low oil pressure switch will not shut off fuel pump.
Even if it has one it is only a saftey switch to keep fuel pump circuit (engine) running if main fuel pump relay (circuit ) fails.
FishFind
05-13-2012, 02:04 PM
Update. ran the van today. When it shuts off it is in a split second. No sputtering. Fuel pressure was fine.
I noticed when trying to start the gas and speed gauge jump around. I heard some snapping and sputtering when engine was off in run position from the rotor and from the ignition coil. sounded like a buzz and tick.
I checked the spark when its in a no start mode I see no spark from the plugs. when it does run it has spark..
What am I looking for. I am assuming it is electrical but what or where should I look. What do all the parts have in common.
I noticed when trying to start the gas and speed gauge jump around. I heard some snapping and sputtering when engine was off in run position from the rotor and from the ignition coil. sounded like a buzz and tick.
I checked the spark when its in a no start mode I see no spark from the plugs. when it does run it has spark..
What am I looking for. I am assuming it is electrical but what or where should I look. What do all the parts have in common.
MT-2500
05-13-2012, 02:49 PM
Update. ran the van today. When it shuts off it is in a split second. No sputtering. Fuel pressure was fine.
I noticed when trying to start the gas and speed gauge jump around. I heard some snapping and sputtering when engine was off in run position from the rotor and from the ignition coil. sounded like a buzz and tick.
I checked the spark when its in a no start mode I see no spark from the plugs. when it does run it has spark..
What am I looking for. I am assuming it is electrical but what or where should I look. What do all the parts have in common.
If you are losing SPARK OR HEAR SPARK JUMPING FIRST CHECK FOR GOOD SPARK FOM COIL.
Then check for spark to dist cap and threw it to plug wires and plugs.
Also pull dist cap and check for burned or cracked cap and rotor.
I noticed when trying to start the gas and speed gauge jump around. I heard some snapping and sputtering when engine was off in run position from the rotor and from the ignition coil. sounded like a buzz and tick.
I checked the spark when its in a no start mode I see no spark from the plugs. when it does run it has spark..
What am I looking for. I am assuming it is electrical but what or where should I look. What do all the parts have in common.
If you are losing SPARK OR HEAR SPARK JUMPING FIRST CHECK FOR GOOD SPARK FOM COIL.
Then check for spark to dist cap and threw it to plug wires and plugs.
Also pull dist cap and check for burned or cracked cap and rotor.
FishFind
05-14-2012, 09:11 PM
I am getting spark from the coil. I took off the cap and it had some nice burn marks several of them. I had a new cap so i tossed it on real quick still no start. I heard that the ignition moduel can cause some problem close to this? Someone said that when they heat up the can do that.
No play in the rotor.. What can cause the cap to have burn marks?
No play in the rotor.. What can cause the cap to have burn marks?
MT-2500
05-15-2012, 09:55 AM
I am getting spark from the coil. I took off the cap and it had some nice burn marks several of them. I had a new cap so i tossed it on real quick still no start. I heard that the ignition moduel can cause some problem close to this? Someone said that when they heat up the can do that.
No play in the rotor.. What can cause the cap to have burn marks?
If you are getting good hot blue spark from coil the ign module is ok.
You need to check for fire to dist cap and out cap and rotor to plug wires.
Burn marks in cap is a sign of spark jumping in it from a crack/moisture or bad plug wires with to much restiance.
Start checking for lose of spark from coil to coil wire to dist cap threw rotor and out of cap to plug wire to plugs.
No play in the rotor.. What can cause the cap to have burn marks?
If you are getting good hot blue spark from coil the ign module is ok.
You need to check for fire to dist cap and out cap and rotor to plug wires.
Burn marks in cap is a sign of spark jumping in it from a crack/moisture or bad plug wires with to much restiance.
Start checking for lose of spark from coil to coil wire to dist cap threw rotor and out of cap to plug wire to plugs.
danielsatur
05-15-2012, 10:08 AM
Heat to a bad coil or plug wires will cause the inductance reactance (XL), or resistance to be high thus giving an ignition problems when HOT.
FishFind
05-15-2012, 10:35 AM
Ill check it out. I did notice that with that old cap on it when I did see spark at the wire it was a yellow or gold color.
danielsatur
05-15-2012, 02:05 PM
Did we rule out fuel pressure + Air?
Fuel - bad fuel pump, relay, fuel filter
Fuel pressure test
Next time she stalls, try some starting fluid to rule out fuel problem.
Air - plugged catalytic converter, or air filter
Test - back pressure test done on cats.
Ignition system - coil, wires, cap, ignition control module, or ignition module.
Advance Auto might be able to test your ignition module, if out of van.
It might be worth looking at some used/new parts from the salvage yard!
Fuel - bad fuel pump, relay, fuel filter
Fuel pressure test
Next time she stalls, try some starting fluid to rule out fuel problem.
Air - plugged catalytic converter, or air filter
Test - back pressure test done on cats.
Ignition system - coil, wires, cap, ignition control module, or ignition module.
Advance Auto might be able to test your ignition module, if out of van.
It might be worth looking at some used/new parts from the salvage yard!
FishFind
05-16-2012, 02:26 PM
Update, I had a good coil, ignition mod, rotor and cap here so I put them all on and after that I was able to see nice blue spark from the coil and rotor. It started right up after that and ran for 35 minutes and then shut off. This time it did restart after it stalled and ran for about another 5 minutes and then started running rough. I scanned it for codes and it came up with 3 of them even though no check engine light came on.
P0337
p0339
p0341
P0337
p0339
p0341
danielsatur
05-16-2012, 02:52 PM
Get some electronic Freeze spray from Radio shake and spray both the ignition module + control when Hot!
FishFind
05-16-2012, 03:13 PM
Get some electronic Freeze spray from Radio shake and spray both the ignition module + control when Hot!
What will this tell me?
What will this tell me?
MT-2500
05-16-2012, 03:20 PM
Update, I had a good coil, ignition mod, rotor and cap here so I put them all on and after that I was able to see nice blue spark from the coil and rotor. It started right up after that and ran for 35 minutes and then shut off. This time it did restart after it stalled and ran for about another 5 minutes and then started running rough. I scanned it for codes and it came up with 3 of them even though no check engine light came on.
P0337
p0339
p0341
First two codes are CRANKSHAFT SENSOR CODES.
P0337
p0339
p0341
First two codes are CRANKSHAFT SENSOR CODES.
FishFind
05-25-2012, 08:57 AM
This problem has been solved. After I did a new ignition control module and new cap and rotor the van finally threw the codes mentioned before. I changed the crankshaft position sensor and it now works. I have no idea what part was the main cause if only one but its up and going now.
MT-2500
05-25-2012, 01:04 PM
This problem has been solved. After I did a new ignition control module and new cap and rotor the van finally threw the codes mentioned before. I changed the crankshaft position sensor and it now works. I have no idea what part was the main cause if only one but its up and going now.
Thanks for posting back how it went and fix.
As in post 16 the first 2 and the lowest code no's were for crankshaft sensor.
Thanks for posting back how it went and fix.
As in post 16 the first 2 and the lowest code no's were for crankshaft sensor.
danielsatur
06-04-2012, 07:38 PM
Electronic freeze spay will pinpoint any electronic failures, that will fail during heat.
When you freeze it, everything will seem to work good when cold.
When you freeze it, everything will seem to work good when cold.
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