94 Caprice will not start((((HELP))))!!!

I have a 1994 Caprice Classic that will not start. For a couple months it was taking a while to start. when i would start it would turn and turn and turn until it would finally start. one morning i got into my car and it turned turned and turned and never started again. I am going to tell everybody exactly what i replaced so far, The fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, ignition coil, ignition control module, distributor cap and rotor along with having the timing chain changed, spark plugs and wires computer chip and knock sensors. Any more idea why it will not start?

You have replaced alot of stuff, have you verified fuel pressure and spark?

I have a 1994 Caprice Classic that will not start. For a couple months it was taking a while to start. when i would start it would turn and turn and turn until it would finally start. one morning i got into my car and it turned turned and turned and never started again. I am going to tell everybody exactly what i replaced so far, The fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, ignition coil, ignition control module, distributor cap and rotor along with having the timing chain changed, spark plugs and wires computer chip and knock sensors. Any more idea why it will not start?

what about the ECT temp sensor ? make sure with a pressure guage you get 45-48 psi fuel pressure. the opti connector needs checking. this can get damaged some have had this occur.

the distributor on these are very sensitive to coolant getting into them. this is because this is directly below the water pump weep hole. if the water pump leaks at this weep hole which does occur from time to time it will get into the distributor especially if this distributor has not been modified or updated with the venting of the 1995-1996 model year.

why was the timing chain replaced ? who had /came up with that idea ?


the other item which has caused this problem is the battery feed wire/connection to the underhood fuse box. this connection was not properly secured when this vehicle was built. over time many have had this melt and cause this no start problem.

big red wire to the fuse box at the fuse box......

You have replaced alot of stuff, have you verified fuel pressure and spark?
The mechanic said that the pressure is fine but he's not getting a spark....

what about the ECT temp sensor ? the distributor on these are very sensitive to coolant getting into them. this is because this is directly below the water pump weep hole. if the water pump leaks at this weep hole which does occur from time to time it will get into the distributor especially if this distributor has not been modified or updated with the venting of the 1995-1996 model year.

why was the timing chain replaced ? who had /came up with that idea ?


the other item which has caused this problem is the battery feed wire/connection to the underhood fuse box. ......

I will get him to check the ECT. The distributor is brand new. the mechanic said that my timing chain was so loose that the timing marks were off, so he replaced it, said it had stretched. Will the car still try to turn over if the battery feed wire/connection has a problem? My car tries and tries and tries (chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga) to turn over but will not...I don't:confused: understand?:runaround:

I will get him to check the ECT. The distributor is brand new. the mechanic said that my timing chain was so loose that the timing marks were off, so he replaced it, said it had stretched. Will the car still try to turn over if the battery feed wire/connection has a problem? My car tries and tries and tries (chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga) to turn over but will not...I don't:confused: understand?:runaround:

I would get another auto tech to repair this vehicle. I hope you did not pay for all this work / parts and still no engine start .

The repairer is an idiot or a crook . timing chain on this is not an issue with this vehicle. this has a steel timing chain.

the chain could be worn if not properly maintained, but not stretched.

also what timing marks ,,,,, there are none. timing is not adjustable.

WE ARE TALKING ABOUT THE LT1 ENGINE CORRECT?

WE ARE TALKING ABOUT THE LT1 ENGINE CORRECT?

this is what it looks like....he showed me how the two indentation dots did not line up, with the top dot at 6 and the button dot at 12.

this is what it looks like....he showed me how the two indentation dots did not line up, with the top dot at 6 and the button dot at 12.

as you and every one else can see with your picture how the hell does that chain stretch. that is a very strong chain not a belt that could stretch.

still however you are not the repairer you are a fruad victim...this guy should be XXXX.

I will get him to check the ECT. The distributor is brand new. the mechanic said that my timing chain was so loose that the timing marks were off, so he replaced it, said it had stretched. Will the car still try to turn over if the battery feed wire/connection has a problem? My car tries and tries and tries (chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga) to turn over but will not...I don't:confused: understand?:runaround:


if the ICM , is bad the engine will have no spark.

I forgot to mention that the CPS crank position sensor can cause a no start. if this has no output the timing is gone as no signal no spark.
Thanks. Funny though, the mechanic said that my car does not have a crank position sensor... SMDH. He said that was the reason for replacing the knock sensors because they do the same job as the crank shaft sensors would do....This is getting more strange by the minute. i mean its only a 94 Chevy...i'm not a mechanic, but how much easier can it be?

a few pictures.

Everybody don't speak all at once now...........

Hmm maybe people are at work, ( we hope) and do not have the time right now? Retired here, so let's see what we can do. Someone has to trace down the cause of no spark, simple, it is an ignition problem, from here we cannot do onsite diagnosis, none of the work done relates to no spark other than the pcm, coil and ign. module, Inside the dist there is also a pick up. And of course wiring connections.. The knock sensors have no affect on starting, J Cat's advice seems to sum it up.

Thanks. Funny though, the mechanic said that my car does not have a crank position sensor... SMDH. He said that was the reason for replacing the knock sensors because they do the same job as the crank shaft sensors would do....This is getting more strange by the minute. i mean its only a 94 Chevy...i'm not a mechanic, but how much easier can it be?


your vehicle 1994 does not have a crank sensor ...my 1996 LT1 has a crank and cam position sensor. these provide a more accurate timing/control with the opti distributor computer controlled system..

you 1994 though not as accurate as the 1996 is still a very accurate timing system. when the engine rotates the cam connected to the opti distributor tells the engine where its at. so no signal no start...

this is where the opti can cause no spark if damaged..

WOW....but what is the PCM?

your vehicle has a cranksensor ...
i'm calling the mechanic right now!

i'm calling the mechanic right now!

I made a mistake on that ...the cam is connected to the opti distributor that is how it controls the engine firing.

In 1996 the cranksensor was added ...

I would have him look at the coil and ICM for being defective ..if that is bad you will get no spark....

WOW....but what is the PCM?

pcm is the computer. this can also be defective causing a no start / engine run condition.

sometimes bad grounds or a error in hooking up jumper cables can damage the pcm/computer ..

I would have him look at the coil and ICM for being defective ..if that is bad you will get no spark....

What does "ICM" stand for.... Ignition coil _____? maybe...if that's ignition coil module, we've already replaced that, and the the ignition control module as well.

What does "ICM" stand for.... Ignition coil _____? maybe...if that's ignition coil module, we've already replaced that, and the the ignition control module as well.

the ICM is the ignition control module. this can be tested. autozone stores usually have this wells tester to do this , that way your not guessing if defective.

wells makes this tester only for autozone............

that way your not guessing if defective..
i already stated that we put a brand new in....does auto zone test it on the car or by itself?

Out of the car.

i already stated that we put a brand new in....does auto zone test it on the car or by itself?

I would take the old ICM and new ICM to autozone and have these components tested.

like a starter / alternator these are removed then put on a bench
tester. test old and new.

who is the manufacturer of the opti distributor ?

what is the part number of the replacement distributor?

who made the distributor cap ? also the rotor ?

If the opti distributor is bad you will get no spark . If installed wrong etc.

All the b-bodies got the later vented opti so the early comments on asking if your car was "updated" just show the ignorance of the poster.

With an incompetent mechanic such as you have this is going to be very hard for us to help with. Everyone likes to freak out about how "loose" the LT1 timing chain is but reality is nobody ever has an actual problem with it I have used it with cams with a full 30% more lift than stock turning 1300rpm more than stock without issue.

Have you tried giving it a little throttle while cranking? One time I had an idle air control valve died closed and the car would not start or idle without some pedal.

I know you said there is no spark but with the incompetence the mechanic has exhibited already I am not inclined to trust much of what he says.

I talked to another mechanic and he aid that since i change all of what i changed, the car should start. he told to get this company out called "pop a lock" and that they will be able to reprogram my car key. he said that more then likely the car lost it memory for the chip in the key. he said that's why i never get a spark...:banghead:

I talked to another mechanic and he aid that since i change all of what i changed, the car should start. he told to get this company out called "pop a lock" and that they will be able to reprogram my car key. he said that more then likely the car lost it memory for the chip in the key. he said that's why i never get a spark...:banghead:

my 96 impala has a resistor in the key. it is a two sided metal piece built into the key. the resistor may have fallen out. or the ignition lock may be worn /dirty so that it cannot sense and compare the key resistance to the programmed value.

when this occurs the dash should indicate this..

when you attempt to start the vehicle with this all occuring with the issues above the engine will crank but no fuel pump or igntion spark to the plugs will occur. this will not just prevent spark but also the fuel pump will also be disabled.

The key has NOTHING to do with spark....since I think the start system uses a starter enable relay, the fact it cranks means the key is ok...

The key has NOTHING to do with spark....since I think the start system uses a starter enable relay, the fact it cranks means the key is ok...



I was in error on the starter operating with a bad key/ignition cylinder.

the wrong or defective key will cause the theft deterrent module to not enable the starter, and the fuel pump.

the theft deterrent module will throw a security light on if the key is defective.

the theft deterrent relay prevents or allows the engine to crank.

since the engine is not cranking no spark ...

well thats how it is on the 1996 ...

my 96 impala has a resistor in the key. it is a two sided metal piece built into the key. the resistor may have fallen out. or the ignition lock may be worn /dirty so that it cannot sense and compare the key resistance to the programmed value.

when this occurs the dash should indicate this..

when you attempt to start the vehicle with this all occuring with the issues above the engine will crank but no fuel pump or igntion spark to the plugs will occur. this will not just prevent spark but also the fuel pump will also be disabled.
Sometimes when that issue occurred I would get a "key Fault" light and nothing would happen. that's not the case here. it is a least trying to start