MTX Terminator Amp Issue

I'm having a problem with my 600W MTX Terminator amp, when I turn my stereo on, it hits twice, then three red lights flash on top of the amp, at first I thought this was ground issue, so I used an actaul sander to sand down the ground spot to remove any and all paint, and refashioned the ground wire to the spot. That did not solve the issue.
Next, I turned my stereo on, and unplugged the remote wire from the amp while the stereo was on, then when I plugged the remote wire back in, the red lights stopped flashing and it worked. The issue is that I have to do this every time I want to listen to my subs. Are there any known solutions to this problem? I'd appreciate any and all constructive feedback, thank you!


- Austin

How old is the amp?

What type of wire are you using for your power, ground, and remote?

What type of deck and how old?

Has this set up been installed in another vehicle previously?

How old is the amp?
the amp is 6 months old

What type of wire are you using for your power, ground, and remote?

I have DB 4-gauge audio wire for the power and ground, its about half an 3/4th of an inch thick and is a very fine wire.

What type of deck and how old?

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-P500UB

That's the deck, it's a little over a year old.

Has this set up been installed in another vehicle previously?

Yes i bought it Saturday it was installed in a 1999 Ford Explorer. It worked fine and he played several songs with no problems.

Your power wire should have an in-line fuse, double check that it's good and the fuse housing is screwed together tight. How is your remote wire tied in?

where does this turn on wire come from ?

The inline fuse for the power wire is about a foot away from the battery, it isnt burnt at all and is still intact. The remote wire is connected to the head unit via wirenut. It's just one of those little blue remote wires you buy in a walmart amp kit. Do you think I need a thicker gauge remote wire? Like I said, if i turn the system on, i get flashing red lights. To make it work while it's still on i have to take the remote wire out of the amp and put it back in, then the subs will work until i turn the car off again, adjust any frequency or bass boost settings on the head unit, or switch to a CD.

where does this turn on wire come from ?

it comes from the remote wire at the head unit

do you have a multimeter ? if so, check the voltage of the remote wire at the amp when the cd player is first turned on, then check it again when you disconnect and reconnect it.

Okay, I'll have to borrow one. What kind of readout should I be looking for?

I'm not real familiar with the newer pioneers. I'm guessing since you say it's connected to the head unit with a wing nut that there is a specific connection for the remote wire. On the older pioneer head units as many others there never used to be a remote wire terminal. I always spliced the remote wire in with the acc. on the wire harness. I would try that.

Looking at the picture from pioneer's website of that model I don't see anything showing where you would connect the remote wire with a wing nut. Do you have a picture of where you have it connected to the head unit?

Looking at the picture from pioneer's website of that model I don't see anything showing where you would connect the remote wire with a wing nut. Do you have a picture of where you have it connected to the head unit?

That's what I mean, the blue remote wire that comes out of the wire harness that is connected into the back of the head unit is where I have connected the wire in my trunk. I used a wire nut to connect those two wires.

[wire harness]----------------*---------------------------------{AMP}
Blue remote wire ^| Wire nut^| Wire that leads to trunk^

I'm not real familiar with the newer pioneers. I'm guessing since you say it's connected to the head unit with a wing nut that there is a specific connection for the remote wire. On the older pioneer head units as many others there never used to be a remote wire terminal. I always spliced the remote wire in with the acc. on the wire harness. I would try that.


what color is the acc. wire?

Sorry I didn't read it that close and thought you said wing nut not wire nut. The acc wire should be either yellow or red, it should be labeled acc. If there are two red wires the one with the in-line fuse will be your normal 12v power the other red would be your acc, but they normally make the acc wire yellow.

Pretty much universal color scheme for headunit wiring
ACC = red
const 12V = yellow
orange = illumination
solid blue = auto antennna
blue with with strip = amp turn on

Please do not use wire nuts in a car, they are for 110V AC house use. Houses do not have vibration like cars do (except during earthquakes). Either use a butt splice or twist and solder then tape or heat shrink over it. That may actually be the problem, voltage drop acsross that connection.

The voltage between ground and the auto turnon on the amp should be close to 12V. After looking at some of the posts make SURE you used the blue wire with a white stripe and NOT the solid blue one.

Okay, so I've narrowed down the problem. If I turn the stereo on without the RCA's plugged in, it does not go into protect. Then I simply plug the RCA's in and proceed to play music, but if I turn the stereo on WITH the RCA's plugged in, it goes into protect.

I am assuming this an aftermarket cd player, I saw no mention of a LOC being used. First off, do NOT diconnect or reconnect the RCA's while the stereo is operational. Where is the cd player grouned, where is the black with connected ?

Uh Oh I've been doing that, how bad is it for the amp? Also, the stereo is ground]ed via the wire harness if I'm not mistaken

ok for the amp, the inputs are normally protected - bad for the headunit. If you have a Pioneer headunit you have assuredly blown the pico fuse already.

Remove the headunits ground wire from the harness connection and attach it directly to a bolt behind the dash, that's why it had a metal lug on it that you most likely cut off to attach it to the harness. Those harness grounds are usually poor for an aftermarket headunit. It may be causing your voltage problems.