2000 Silverado stuck in 4WD / Service 4WD light on

I have read through about every post on this problem and can't find an example that sounds quite like mine, hopefully someone will have an idea what direction I should take to fix this one.

2000 Silverado 1500, 216,000 miles, I just bought this truck and have used 4WD a few times with no problems, about a week ago the "service 4wd" light came on and it wouldn't shift from 4HI to 2HI, but I turned truck off and back on and then it shifted back to 2HI just fine. This weekend the Service 4WD light is on all the time, and I got it into 4HI but can't get it out of 4HI. When I try shifting to 2HI the light on the 2HI button flashes a few times and I hear it clicking in the dash, then it goes back to 4HI, like it tried but failed to shift. I can push Auto and it will go to auto, if I then try to 2HI the 2HI button will flash a few time again, then all the lights go out completely, and none of the switches do anything. When I turn the truck off and back on, I'm back in 4HI (I don't think I ever got out of 4wd).

I checked 4wd fuse in side dash and ATC fuse in engine fuse block, both OK. I have inspected all of the wiring that I can find (plugs and wires going into transfer case and front axle motor) and don't see any obvious problems. I then took the dash switch from my dad's '99 Silverado and swapped it with mine, but it operated exactly the same so I know the switch is not the problem.

I really want to avoid taking this to the dealership, is there anything else I can look at before paying the dealership too much money for a diagnostic? Thanks for the help everyone!

this problem is here on this forum many times. get the drive train code failure. post here for advice.

what is the transfercase fluid condition blue or gray or black ?

90% of the time this is the encoder motor.

your problem is quite the way it is with this vehicle . transfercase is usually not maintained correctly as well as the other drive train fluids.

replace these fluids every 30-40,ooomiles to avoid problems .

any 4wd operation must not be on dry pavement or this drivetrain will be broke in a short time.

I have an appointment tomorrow morning at the shop to check the codes, I'll post back what I find.

I found an AAMCO that does a free diagnostic and had them check the codes. I don't know if all three of these were current or if some were history codes.

U1026 - Lost communication with transmission control system
C0325 - Transfer case lock circuit low
C0387 - Unable to complet shift

Diagnosis was *probably* a bad encoder/actuator motor, and gave me a quote of $892.85 to fix it ($728 for the part). They gave me the disclaimer there could be something wrong with the transfer case also but wouldn't know for sure until they replaced the encoder. I called GM and they priced the part at $794. I went to the local salvage yard and bought a used one for $75 and plan to put it in myself, along with some fresh transfer case oil.

I haven't replaced one of these before, are there any tricks to it? Does the actuator have to be in any certain position to match up to the transfer case? Also it looks like the front drive shaft might have to come out of the way?

Thanks again for the help!

I found an AAMCO that does a free diagnostic and had them check the codes. I don't know if all three of these were current or if some were history codes.

U1026 - Lost communication with transmission control system
C0325 - Transfer case lock circuit low
C0387 - Unable to complet shift

Diagnosis was *probably* a bad encoder/actuator motor, and gave me a quote of $892.85 to fix it ($728 for the part). They gave me the disclaimer there could be something wrong with the transfer case also but wouldn't know for sure until they replaced the encoder. I called GM and they priced the part at $794. I went to the local salvage yard and bought a used one for $75 and plan to put it in myself, along with some fresh transfer case oil.

I haven't replaced one of these before, are there any tricks to it? Does the actuator have to be in any certain position to match up to the transfer case? Also it looks like the front drive shaft might have to come out of the way?

Thanks again for the help!
As with any codes.

Code should be cleared and watch for what comes back.
Codes do not say replace parts but to check things out.
U1026 can be a wiring or module/computer problem.
C0325 should be C0323 for low lock circuit.
Code C0387 you need to go threw the repair flow chart for that code.
But if you are going to throw parts at it without proper testing or doing the fluid change as advised in upper post.
Let us know how it goes.

The actuator is splined to match the transfer case shifter stub.
Line up shifter stub splines to match shifter motor.
and Always make sure the transfer case shifter is not binding up or real hard to turn.
As to the oil it does not use oil but uses the new GM blue transfer case fluid.

As adviced in upper post that is first thing you should do.

And if it has not been serviced as should be you need to flush it.
Like Change and run a short time and rechange it.

I found an AAMCO that does a free diagnostic and had them check the codes. I don't know if all three of these were current or if some were history codes.

U1026 - Lost communication with transmission control system
C0325 - Transfer case lock circuit low
C0387 - Unable to complet shift

Diagnosis was *probably* a bad encoder/actuator motor, and gave me a quote of $892.85 to fix it ($728 for the part). They gave me the disclaimer there could be something wrong with the transfer case also but wouldn't know for sure until they replaced the encoder. I called GM and they priced the part at $794. I went to the local salvage yard and bought a used one for $75 and plan to put it in myself, along with some fresh transfer case oil.

I haven't replaced one of these before, are there any tricks to it? Does the actuator have to be in any certain position to match up to the transfer case? Also it looks like the front drive shaft might have to come out of the way?

Thanks again for the help!

with your DTC results this is what I think is going on.

U1026 is loss of communication with the auto transfercase module. this may be due to a blown fuse or a short circuit.

co323 not c325 is transfercase locking circuit is low when it should be high. this is usually a shorted locking solenoid with in the encoder motor.

co327 the ATC sensors are not reporting back to the pcm in the correct position . this is to be expected. encoder not moving as commanded.

since you got a used encoder this should be in 2wd . place your vehicle in 2wd. then install the encoder.. never try to move the encoder to line up the transfercase fork...move the transfercase fork if necessary only.

make sure all fuses are good use a meter.

you can get these encoders for a little over a hundred dollars ..dealerships charge too much , the price they gave however is what they are charging.

the drive shaft will require removal to slide out the encoder. that is obvious ..

with your DTC results this is what I think is going on.

U1026 is loss of communication with the auto transfercase module. this may be due to a blown fuse or a short circuit.

co323 not c325 is transfercase locking circuit is low when it should be high. this is usually a shorted locking solenoid with in the encoder motor.

co327 the ATC sensors are not reporting back to the pcm in the correct position . this is to be expected. encoder not moving as commanded.

since you got a used encoder this should be in 2wd . place your vehicle in 2wd. then install the encoder.. never try to move the encoder to line up the transfercase fork...move the transfercase fork if necessary only.

make sure all fuses are good use a meter.

you can get these encoders for a little over a hundred dollars ..dealerships charge too much , the price they gave however is what they are charging.

the drive shaft will require removal to slide out the encoder. that is obvious ..

j CAT - Thanks for the help. One more question, I'm having a hard time lining up the new encoder. When I pulled the old one off, there was pressure on the transfer case shaft and it turned a bit when I pulled the encoder off. The new encoder is in the same position as the old one, however the shaft has turned slighly so it doesn't line up. The shaft needs to turn clockwise to line up, but is spring loaded so when I turn it it just turns back. I can turn it ccw and feel it shift one position, it seems to be solid after that. Of course ccw is the wrong direction so it is off even more. I don't want to force it harder cw direction against the spring. Does it sound like something isn't right in the transfer case or is there anything I can do to get this lined up? Should the transfer case shaft only have two positions (I was thinking it would have 2wd, 4wd, and neutral)?

I did read an old post that explained the larger wires going into the encoder could be given 12v to turn the encoder, I first tried this on the old one and can hear the motor engage but the encoder doesn't turn, tried + on both wires, just acts like it is stuck. I then tried it on the new one (salvage yard part) and it acts the same. I'm at a loss how to get the shaft to line up.

j CAT - Thanks for the help. One more question, I'm having a hard time lining up the new encoder. When I pulled the old one off, there was pressure on the transfer case shaft and it turned a bit when I pulled the encoder off. The new encoder is in the same position as the old one, however the shaft has turned slighly so it doesn't line up. The shaft needs to turn clockwise to line up, but is spring loaded so when I turn it it just turns back. I can turn it ccw and feel it shift one position, it seems to be solid after that. Of course ccw is the wrong direction so it is off even more. I don't want to force it harder cw direction against the spring. Does it sound like something isn't right in the transfer case or is there anything I can do to get this lined up? Should the transfer case shaft only have two positions (I was thinking it would have 2wd, 4wd, and neutral)?

I did read an old post that explained the larger wires going into the encoder could be given 12v to turn the encoder, I first tried this on the old one and can hear the motor engage but the encoder doesn't turn, tried + on both wires, just acts like it is stuck. I then tried it on the new one (salvage yard part) and it acts the same. I'm at a loss how to get the shaft to line up.

I never used this application of 12volts to the large guage wires to rotate the encoder . It has been reported it worked to move slightly.

I believe however that the encoder brake would not allow much movement and you could damage the encoder.

as was mention with the rear wheels first lift off the ground and tranny in neutral rotate the drive shaft. this should allow this fork to move to the position. since the drive shaft to front diff is off front wheels should not be involved..post back how it went ., good luck your almost there.

I'm really striking out on this one, still no luck getting the encoder installed. I have the back wheels off the ground, with shifter in neutral I can spin drive shaft/wheels and doesn't change the movement I can get from the T case shaft. I still only have two positions, turned fully ccw appears to be neutral, then one notch cw engages the wheels, it seems like I should have one more position cw to get to the point where the shaft would line up with the encoder but from there it is just pushes against a spring. I have put some good pressure on it but don't want to force it and break something.

How many positions should the t case shaft have, am I right assuming there should be 3?

Does it sound like there is something wrong in the T case causing my problem?

I'm really striking out on this one, still no luck getting the encoder installed. I have the back wheels off the ground, with shifter in neutral I can spin drive shaft/wheels and doesn't change the movement I can get from the T case shaft. I still only have two positions, turned fully ccw appears to be neutral, then one notch cw engages the wheels, it seems like I should have one more position cw to get to the point where the shaft would line up with the encoder but from there it is just pushes against a spring. I have put some good pressure on it but don't want to force it and break something.

How many positions should the t case shaft have, am I right assuming there should be 3?

Does it sound like there is something wrong in the T case causing my problem?

put the old motor back in and try to get this fork to move to the correct position. keep the wheels off ground in rear and just in park/neutral try this.

one owner had to replace the fluid because he found this did help in his tahoe with difficulty in moving the fork for correct alignment. with moving the fork back and forth he finally got the encoder to line up.

did you replace the transfercase fluid ?

put the old motor back in and try to get this fork to move to the correct position. keep the wheels off ground in rear and just in park/neutral try this.

one owner had to replace the fluid because he found this did help in his tahoe with difficulty in moving the fork for correct alignment. with moving the fork back and forth he finally got the encoder to line up.

did you replace the transfercase fluid ?

Yes I did just replace the transfercase fluid. The old motor/encoder won't go back on either, it is in the exact same position as the new one. When I took the old one off, the T case shaft turned (encoder was holding pressure against the spring-loaded shaft from rotating) so I have to turn the shaft back against the spring loaded pressure to get it to the right spot to go on. I tried making a tool (very thin 9/16" wrench made out of heavy sheet metal) to try and turn the shaft and hold it in position as I got the encoder started on the shaft, but there isn't enough room to hold the shaft while the encoder starts on. Does anyone know if the transfer case only having two positions is correct or not?

Yes I did just replace the transfercase fluid. The old motor/encoder won't go back on either, it is in the exact same position as the new one. When I took the old one off, the T case shaft turned (encoder was holding pressure against the spring-loaded shaft from rotating) so I have to turn the shaft back against the spring loaded pressure to get it to the right spot to go on. I tried making a tool (very thin 9/16" wrench made out of heavy sheet metal) to try and turn the shaft and hold it in position as I got the encoder started on the shaft, but there isn't enough room to hold the shaft while the encoder starts on. Does anyone know if the transfer case only having two positions is correct or not?


should be 2 positions in and out. what matters is you have it line up to the encoder as it was.

place shifter in neutral ....

rotate both shafts on the transfercase , then try to move the fork to gather the encoder correctly. both the old and new encoder are in the same position . It could be that the transfercase may be damaged internally. what color was the fluid when you drained it ?

I'm thinking that if you have the "AUTO 4wd" select button that the t-case shaft would have 5 detents. These would be:

2 HI
4 HI
AUTO 4
4 LO
NEUTRAL

This is just a Wild Ass Guess (WAG) on my part.

When I replaced the encoder/motor on my '98 Sub several years ago I was able to turn the shaft easily to get it lined up for the new motor. That said you could very well have internal issues with the t-case.


the encoder motor engages the front axle to the rear , this is all it does.

the AUTO SELECT POSITION this is the front diff locking actuator locking the front diff axles together. this does not engage any 4wd .

when a slip is detected the encoder then connects the locked front axle to the rear axles until a number of revolutions has been sensed then the encoder disengages the front /rear axle connection.

LIKE I STATED AUTO 4WD SEL POSITION ONLY LOCKS THE FRONT AXLES TOGETHER .............

WHEN THE WHEEL SLIP IS SENSED THEN THE TRANSFERCASE ENCODER ENGAGES THE LOCKED FRONT AXLE TO THE REAR AXLE.................................THEN AFTER SOME AMOUNT OF WHEEL REVOLUTIONS THE ENCODER RELEASES THE FRONT AXLES TO THE REAR AXLES...............PCM OVERSEAS THIS OPERATION...........



well thats your opinon. I own the 2000 silverado with this setup good day to you .

J cat is correct i have the same year and model and does exactly as he noted.

I have read through about every post on this problem and can't find an example that sounds quite like mine, hopefully someone will have an idea what direction I should take to fix this one.

2000 Silverado 1500, 216,000 miles, I just bought this truck and have used 4WD a few times with no problems, about a week ago the "service 4wd" light came on and it wouldn't shift from 4HI to 2HI, but I turned truck off and back on and then it shifted back to 2HI just fine. This weekend the Service 4WD light is on all the time, and I got it into 4HI but can't get it out of 4HI. When I try shifting to 2HI the light on the 2HI button flashes a few times and I hear it clicking in the dash, then it goes back to 4HI, like it tried but failed to shift. I can push Auto and it will go to auto, if I then try to 2HI the 2HI button will flash a few time again, then all the lights go out completely, and none of the switches do anything. When I turn the truck off and back on, I'm back in 4HI (I don't think I ever got out of 4wd).

I checked 4wd fuse in side dash and ATC fuse in engine fuse block, both OK. I have inspected all of the wiring that I can find (plugs and wires going into transfer case and front axle motor) and don't see any obvious problems. I then took the dash switch from my dad's '99 Silverado and swapped it with mine, but it operated exactly the same so I know the switch is not the problem.

I really want to avoid taking this to the dealership, is there anything else I can look at before paying the dealership too much money for a diagnostic? Thanks for the help everyone!

since you cannot move the transfercase fork to line up with the encoder which both were in 2wd and you know where this position is when you removed the original encoder this then tells me the transfercase is in need of work. you rotated the axles on the transfercase and still no go on the alignment of these both encoders both in 2wd.

this explains why you got those codes. also this is why it is not 100% that the encoder will be the fix.

you may very well need transfercase repaired and a good encoder both.

alot of money to spend on a 200,ooo mi vehicle.

good luck .....................

Still working on this one, here is an update and could use a bit of advice on wiring.

A friend put me in touch with a reputable transmission shop, after telling them the trouble I was having getting the encoder installed they quickly explained what had happened. The truck was in 4WD when I removed the encoder, there is a clutch in the transfer case that has pressure on the shift fork (why I was coming against spring pressure when turning it), and the transfer case actually shifted itself back to 2WD when the encoder was removed. Now I had an encoder in 4WD, and was told that you CAN NOT install an encoder that is in 4wd, impossible to do. Only option was to connect it to truck wiring, ground encoder to chasis, push 2hi button and let it shift back to 2wd, even though you aren't supposed to do that as it may damage the encoder. Shop said you don't have any other option and they have done it before. I tried this with my original encoder, motor hummed but encoder didn't run. Tried it with my new encoder, again motor hummed but encoder didn't run. Thought I may have bad encoder, junk yard traded me for another one (which also happened to be in 4WD position!). Same thing, motor hummed but encoder didn't move.

I talked to the shop again, they then thought the shift module could be bad, junk yard had one for $40 so I put it in tonight, tried it with both encoders again, same results, motors hum but encoder doesn't move.

Before I bought the module I tried to do a continuity check on the wires from the module down to the encoder, but had limited success. The heavy gauge black and red power wires had continuity. The other two wires in the same connection on the encoder were a different color than the other two in the 4 pin module connection, and did NOT have continuity. Chilton book doesn't show this wiring in the wiring diagrams, so I don't know where these other wires go. Can anyone provide a wiring schematic that shows the wiring between the Tcase control module and encoder? Is there a place I can check continuity on these wires or any other way to test any of the components?

I am going to call the second transmission shop again in the morning and schedule a diagnostic with them (first diagnostic at AAMCO transmission didn't impress me much).

Still working on this one, here is an update and could use a bit of advice on wiring.

A friend put me in touch with a reputable transmission shop, after telling them the trouble I was having getting the encoder installed they quickly explained what had happened. The truck was in 4WD when I removed the encoder, there is a clutch in the transfer case that has pressure on the shift fork (why I was coming against spring pressure when turning it), and the transfer case actually shifted itself back to 2WD when the encoder was removed. Now I had an encoder in 4WD, and was told that you CAN NOT install an encoder that is in 4wd, impossible to do. Only option was to connect it to truck wiring, ground encoder to chasis, push 2hi button and let it shift back to 2wd, even though you aren't supposed to do that as it may damage the encoder. Shop said you don't have any other option and they have done it before. I tried this with my original encoder, motor hummed but encoder didn't run. Tried it with my new encoder, again motor hummed but encoder didn't run. Thought I may have bad encoder, junk yard traded me for another one (which also happened to be in 4WD position!). Same thing, motor hummed but encoder didn't move.

I talked to the shop again, they then thought the shift module could be bad, junk yard had one for $40 so I put it in tonight, tried it with both encoders again, same results, motors hum but encoder doesn't move.

Before I bought the module I tried to do a continuity check on the wires from the module down to the encoder, but had limited success. The heavy gauge black and red power wires had continuity. The other two wires in the same connection on the encoder were a different color than the other two in the 4 pin module connection, and did NOT have continuity. Chilton book doesn't show this wiring in the wiring diagrams, so I don't know where these other wires go. Can anyone provide a wiring schematic that shows the wiring between the Tcase control module and encoder? Is there a place I can check continuity on these wires or any other way to test any of the components?

I am going to call the second transmission shop again in the morning and schedule a diagnostic with them (first diagnostic at AAMCO transmission didn't impress me much).

As in post 5 and other post you were advised to test it out before throwing parts at it.:shakehead
But :nono:
You just decided to just throw parts at it.
Now you see why that does not get the job done. :lol:

If you are going to get a transmission shop check it out you might as well let them fix it while they are at it.
To proper check and test it they will have to put it back together.
Then get codes and go threw the reapair flow charts for the codes.
Also they should have a good wiring diagram.
Ask them to print it out for you.
Let us know how it goes.

As in post 5 and other post you were advised to test it out before throwing parts at it.:shakehead
But :nono:
You just decided to just throw parts at it.
Now you see why that does not get the job done. :lol:

If you are going to get a transmission shop check it out you might as well let them fix it while they are at it.
To proper check and test it they will have to put it back together.
Then get codes and go threw the reapair flow charts for the codes.
Also they should have a good wiring diagram.
Ask them to print it out for you.
Let us know how it goes.

MT-2500 - Again thanks for the lecture instead of providing any helpful information. I originally took the truck to a shop and let them diagnose it, if I let them "fix" it I would have an $890 repair bill for a new encoder and it wouldn't have fixed the problem. Who knows what they would do next. Right now I have $120 invested and have spare parts should I need them in the future. If everyone had enough money to let the shop do all repairs we wouldn't need great sites like this one to share information and help others do their own repairs. I do appreciate the advise you have given to me and others, but I don't need a lecture that my choice of how to proceed with a repair is not what you would recommend.

As stated I plan to take it to a second shop and have them help diagnose the problem, but until I can get it to a shop I would really like to do more troubleshooting of the wiring if anyone has any suggestions.

MT-2500 - Again thanks for the lecture instead of providing any helpful information. I originally took the truck to a shop and let them diagnose it, if I let them "fix" it I would have an $890 repair bill for a new encoder and it wouldn't have fixed the problem. Who knows what they would do next. Right now I have $120 invested and have spare parts should I need them in the future. If everyone had enough money to let the shop do all repairs we wouldn't need great sites like this one to share information and help others do their own repairs. I do appreciate the advise you have given to me and others, but I don't need a lecture that my choice of how to proceed with a repair is not what you would recommend.

As stated I plan to take it to a second shop and have them help diagnose the problem, but until I can get it to a shop I would really like to do more troubleshooting of the wiring if anyone has any suggestions.

My best suggestion would play like a school bus.
When crossing the the R.&R.tracts STOP/LOOK/LISTEN.
If you do not want to listen to what we try to tell you we are just wasting our time trying to help you.
Good Luck

Thanks to j cAT for sending over some wiring schematics, I was able to do some testing and locate my problem, which turned out to be a bad wire that provides power to the encoder lock circuit. I tested all of the circuits that run the transfer case encoder for continuity and voltage where appropriate. I found that the encoder locking circuit did not have voltage when it should have (voltage is applied to the locking circuit to engage a solenoid within the encoder which releases the lock and let's the encoder turn). The encoder lock circuit gets power from the fuse block in the engine compartment. The ATC fuse powers both the lock circuit and also the t-case shift control module located in the dash. The module had power but the lock circuit didn't. I partially removed the fuse block and found the ATC fuse splits out to two leads, which were both hot at the fuse box. I had a problem somewhere in the wire harness between the fuse block and encoder motor. The harness was nearly impossible to trace, and I soon gave up and ran a new wire (cut at both ends and soldered in new wire), which quickly solved my problem.

I'm sure glad I didn't pay the shop $890 to replace the encoder that wasn't bad. I actually returned my spare parts to the salvage yard and got a refund minus a small re-stocking fee. Thanks again for all who helped me troubleshoot this one!

Thanks to j cAT for sending over some wiring schematics, I was able to do some testing and locate my problem, which turned out to be a bad wire that provides power to the encoder lock circuit. I tested all of the circuits that run the transfer case encoder for continuity and voltage where appropriate. I found that the encoder locking circuit did not have voltage when it should have (voltage is applied to the locking circuit to engage a solenoid within the encoder which releases the lock and let's the encoder turn). The encoder lock circuit gets power from the fuse block in the engine compartment. The ATC fuse powers both the lock circuit and also the t-case shift control module located in the dash. The module had power but the lock circuit didn't. I partially removed the fuse block and found the ATC fuse splits out to two leads, which were both hot at the fuse box. I had a problem somewhere in the wire harness between the fuse block and encoder motor. The harness was nearly impossible to trace, and I soon gave up and ran a new wire (cut at both ends and soldered in new wire), which quickly solved my problem.

I'm sure glad I didn't pay the shop $890 to replace the encoder that wasn't bad. I actually returned my spare parts to the salvage yard and got a refund minus a small re-stocking fee. Thanks again for all who helped me troubleshoot this one!

GLAD YOU GOT IT FIXED AND THANKS FOR POSTING BACK HOW IT WENT.
As in post 4 and 5 you had the code for you problem and was advised to check it out.
The code 325 :grinno:

See how good thing go when you stop look and listen.

Thanks to j cAT for sending over some wiring schematics, I was able to do some testing and locate my problem, which turned out to be a bad wire that provides power to the encoder lock circuit. I tested all of the circuits that run the transfer case encoder for continuity and voltage where appropriate. I found that the encoder locking circuit did not have voltage when it should have (voltage is applied to the locking circuit to engage a solenoid within the encoder which releases the lock and let's the encoder turn). The encoder lock circuit gets power from the fuse block in the engine compartment. The ATC fuse powers both the lock circuit and also the t-case shift control module located in the dash. The module had power but the lock circuit didn't. I partially removed the fuse block and found the ATC fuse splits out to two leads, which were both hot at the fuse box. I had a problem somewhere in the wire harness between the fuse block and encoder motor. The harness was nearly impossible to trace, and I soon gave up and ran a new wire (cut at both ends and soldered in new wire), which quickly solved my problem.

I'm sure glad I didn't pay the shop $890 to replace the encoder that wasn't bad. I actually returned my spare parts to the salvage yard and got a refund minus a small re-stocking fee. Thanks again for all who helped me troubleshoot this one!

with your having electrical knowledge and the shop manual you should have no problems working on vehicles. you should consider buying these shop manuals in the future since you have displayed this ability. you will save much more than this cost for them.

explain how you got the encoder to correctly line up for install ?

thanks for replying to this issue . this will help others with this . the open wire is not that common . too bad you did not locate the point of wire failure. good luck with your repair . it turned out to be a cheap fix .

Do you think you could send me the wiring schematics? Also,what color is the bad wire you had that provided power to the encoder lock circuit?

Do you think you could send me the wiring schematics? Also,what color is the bad wire you had that provided power to the encoder lock circuit?

welcome to the forum. with vehicle issues start your own posting. give YOUR VEHICLE ISSUES . the problem solved here is not all that common.

be specific with these details.

welcome to the forum. with vehicle issues start your own posting. give YOUR VEHICLE ISSUES . the problem solved here is not all that common.

be specific with these details.

Truck is stuck in 4WD - Service 4WD Light is on. Push button indicator lights blink when trying to shift to 2 WD or any other position. Tried new switch, new front actuator and new transfer case actuator. Nothing worked, it is still stuck in 4WD. After reading the above post regarding the wiring, I am beginning to think that might be the problem. That is why I asked about the wiring schematics. Any help would be appreciated.

Truck is stuck in 4WD - Service 4WD Light is on. Push button indicator lights blink when trying to shift to 2 WD or any other position. Tried new switch, new front actuator and new transfer case actuator. Nothing worked, it is still stuck in 4WD. After reading the above post regarding the wiring, I am beginning to think that might be the problem. That is why I asked about the wiring schematics. Any help would be appreciated.

As in upper post you need to sart your own thread to save on hijacking expensives and avoid confusion.
Look for and hit the New Thread button and give all info there.