Newly purchased '05-question about starting

HI! I am the proud new owner of an '05 suburban. Just bought today, 2/15/11. My question is this: When you go to start the vehicle up, it will not start on the first try-it wants to, but won't. However, when you turn the key and do it the second time, it starts right up.

This is something I am calling the dealer about tomorrow, but would like to know if anyone knows what this might be?

We traded in our old Ford Windstar, and while it was a decent vehicle, we are so excited to have more room for our family of 7. Just wish we weren't starting out with this problem already!

I appreciate any assistance with this. I have been coming to this site for years, just over on the Ford forums!

Thanks!

It should kick over and fire up immediately. Have you done any tune-up measures? Plugs, wires, made sure all the connections are tight, fuel at the rail, etc.? How many miles??

When you first turn the key to "on" do you let it stay for a couple of seconds so the fuel pump and computer systems can set up...then turn to "start"?

What do you know about the fluids? Has the tranny juice been upgraded to Dexron VI?

HI there. Thanks for replying. We haven't checked any of that. I do know the oil has just recently been changed.

I did not think about turning the key to "on" and then going ahead with the start. I will try that. I will be looking at spark plugs, etc. as well.

Thank you for your help. Will keep this updated if I find anything noteworthy to report!

HI there. Thanks for replying. We haven't checked any of that. I do know the oil has just recently been changed.

I did not think about turning the key to "on" and then going ahead with the start. I will try that. I will be looking at spark plugs, etc. as well.

Thank you for your help. Will keep this updated if I find anything noteworthy to report!

turn key to ignition on wait 1 sec. then engage the starter. If the engine does not start with one or two revolutions the fuel pressures must be checked with a guage. the fuel pressures must be correct this means above 53PSI. if this is below this pressure this is what happens..

with a weak or poor pump performance you will not get any codes.

If you purchased this at dealership they will normally give you they all do that ! more lies !

Ok, I figured it out. I was just turning the key wayyy too hard! I am too used to driving around and old Ford Windstar!

My face is a nice shade of red about now.... but glad there is nothing wrong with it!

Good deal....but definitely do the tranny flush and change to Dex SIX. It only takes a day to change all the fluids in the drivetrain, and then your good for many thousands of miles of "glad I did that" driving. Unless, of course, the dealer or prior owner can ussure you it has been done recently. You didn't say how many miles your new truck has.

Ok, I figured it out. I was just turning the key wayyy too hard! I am too used to driving around and old Ford Windstar!

My face is a nice shade of red about now.... but glad there is nothing wrong with it!

If you mean turning the key too quickly this is for sure why it started not to good. by doing as I suggested this will reduce starter/battery wear..

using synthetic oils will also reduce cranking time, as the engine will spin faster with less friction. this is very noticable in cold weather ..

good luck with your new purchase.

We also just purchased a 2005 last August, Yukon XL Denali. Since we had nothing in writing, and previous owner had purchased it at auction a year before and couldn't afford it, we just had to assume that maintenance would not have been their highest priority. I had done an oil change with filter. So last week, took it to my mechanic to change out the ATF, transmission filterm transfer case front differential, rear differential, and coolant (there's NO radiator cap anymore, wasn't sure how to fill that). I've usually done all that with every used vehicle I've ever bought: in writing, or it didn't happen.

We also just purchased a 2005 last August, Yukon XL Denali. Since we had nothing in writing, and previous owner had purchased it at auction a year before and couldn't afford it, we just had to assume that maintenance would not have been their highest priority. I had done an oil change with filter. So last week, took it to my mechanic to change out the ATF, transmission filterm transfer case front differential, rear differential, and coolant (there's NO radiator cap anymore, wasn't sure how to fill that). I've usually done all that with every used vehicle I've ever bought: in writing, or it didn't happen.

The coolant cap is the plastic tank which is part of the coolant pressurized system of 15PSI.

draining the coolant of about 2gallons with the radiator drain plug if it has one. If not removal of the lower radiator hose is required.

when refilling use distilled water and dexcool . use at least 50% dexcool ...or up to 65% for max corrosion protection.do all this when cold.

start engine and continue to fill until the engine is hot. rev engine to 2,oooRPM a few times to get the air out .. then install the pressure cap.

removal of the plastic tank is usually required , and the use of an acid cleaner will remove the great discoloration which usually occurs. flush out with water mixed with baking soda to neutralize the cleaner...

issues with the heater may occur if it is not flushed out. this is where the debris gets collected..most shops do not specificly do the heater core....but when its 120deg f out that is not going to be a problem for you.