timing marks off???????

I'm trying to reinstall a distrib and when the #1 piston is at the compression stroke the timing marks on the crank pulley are way off. What now??????? New hormonic??????

Mike

Are you sure it's on the compression stroke, use a compression guage?
4-strokes per cylinder!

Are you sure it's on the compression stroke, use a compression guage?
4-strokes per cylinder!

Yep......used compression guage, as soon as pressure showed pulled guage and topped the piston with a straw. At top the timing marks were bottom of crank pully????????

Like 180 degrees off!

Like 180 degrees off!
No........more like 3 inches from mark on crank to mark in timing cover. Can the harmonic have slipped??????? Lining up marks an piston is half way down.

Mike

Compression tester will show 2 pulses for each crankshaft rotation. A weak one on the exhaust stroke, and a strong one on the compression stroke. Watch it closely while it's cranking and you'll see the difference.

Follow these and it will be right on. If the distributor is off one or more teeth in either direction, P1345 will be set. If no P1345, you've got it right. When you've got it installed, check camshaft retard with a capable scan tool. Should be zero, plus or minus 2 degrees.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/43LVortecFinding1TDC.jpg


http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/Distributorrotoralignment43L.jpg

Compression tester will show 2 pulses for each crankshaft rotation. A weak one on the exhaust stroke, and a strong one on the compression stroke. Watch it closely while it's cranking and you'll see the difference.

Follow these and it will be right on. If the distributor is off one or more teeth in either direction, P1345 will be set. If no P1345, you've got it right. When you've got it installed, check camshaft retard with a capable scan tool. Should be zero, plus or minus 2 degrees.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/43LVortecFinding1TDC.jpg



http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/Distributorrotoralignment43L.jpg


When I line both marks like that #1 piston is halfway down cylinder????
WTF?????????????

Did this thing run before you took the distributor out?

Did this thing run before you took the distributor out?


Yes it ran great except for a lower intake waterleak. Person helping yanked dist out without marking it.....last time I leave to take a pee!

Mike

when i took mine out for the intake gasket job, i had to get it set at TDC, then use a long screwdriver, to make the input for the oil pump line up, otherwise it was off.

Make sure you get to TDC, then put the distributor in. look at the second image that old master posted. if the rotor is not in the right spot, you will have to manually turn the oil pump until it rotor is in the right spot. kinda tough. you'll need a flat blade at least 8 inches long i think, then you just have to feel it out. take the dist out, and stick the screw driver down the dist shaft. if you can get some light in there, you'll see what you need to aim for.

This usually happens if the car is moved with the dist out. in my case, my old ass clutch slipped, and the blazer rolled about 3-4 feet.

if this sounds like more than you want to mess with, a local shop will usually get it all setup and in-time for about $60-$100. if you can get it close enough to run, the comp will compensate enough to drive it a couple miles to a shop, if necessary. It was actually a local mechanic who told me what to do to fix mine.

when i took mine out for the intake gasket job, i had to get it set at TDC, then use a long screwdriver, to make the input for the oil pump line up, otherwise it was off.

Make sure you get to TDC, then put the distributor in. look at the second image that old master posted. if the rotor is not in the right spot, you will have to manually turn the oil pump until it rotor is in the right spot. kinda tough. you'll need a flat blade at least 8 inches long i think, then you just have to feel it out. take the dist out, and stick the screw driver down the dist shaft. if you can get some light in there, you'll see what you need to aim for.

This usually happens if the car is moved with the dist out. in my case, my old ass clutch slipped, and the blazer rolled about 3-4 feet.

if this sounds like more than you want to mess with, a local shop will usually get it all setup and in-time for about $60-$100. if you can get it close enough to run, the comp will compensate enough to drive it a couple miles to a shop, if necessary. It was actually a local mechanic who told me what to do to fix mine.

Been there got oil shaft no problem. Problem is that with the piston at the compression stroke and topped up, the timing marks on the crank are way off. I'm thinking harmonic balancer slipped. I did find the bolt loose but the keyway is ok. I'm NOT guessing on timing this thing..again :banghead:

Thanks Mike

Just making sure here.... #1 plug is on the driver side. If the marks are off and the woodruff key is ok, the dampener must have slipped. If that's the case, get #1 piston on TDC and install the distributor. If it won't start, the distributor is 180 degrees out of phase... pull it and rotate the shaft 180 and reinstall.

Just making sure here.... #1 plug is on the driver side. If the marks are off and the woodruff key is ok, the dampener must have slipped. If that's the case, get #1 piston on TDC and install the distributor. If it won't start, the distributor is 180 degrees out of phase... pull it and rotate the shaft 180 and reinstall.

I know you have to check for a dummy but yes I know were #1 cly is. I looked at my 96 s10 4.3 today and the timing marks are differant in comparison with the woodruff key location. So either it a differant engine or the damper slipped or wrond harmonic. I'll have a new one on there by tonight. Is anyway to tell if its a "W" engine? And can any "w" engine replace it? This is suppose to be a 14,000 mile motor but has 200,000 in ugliness inside.

Thanks...mike

95 and older W engines are CMFI, large plenum on top of intake. 96 and newer is CSFI and has a low profile black plastic plenum. Better check with a boneyard on the interchange for the dampener. I don't believe they're interchangable. 95 and older did not use a crankshaft position sensor, 96 and newer does. Somewhere around 2001 they became an X motor. The only difference is the X has injectors at the intake ports instead of centrally located. It's a great upgrade for 96 and newer W engines. Check your old dampener, see if the rubber looks like it shifted, if not, just bring it up to TDC and use the dampener you have.

95 and older W engines are CMFI, large plenum on top of intake. 96 and newer is CSFI and has a low profile black plastic plenum. Better check with a boneyard on the interchange for the dampener. I don't believe they're interchangable. 95 and older did not use a crankshaft position sensor, 96 and newer does. Somewhere around 2001 they became an X motor. The only difference is the X has injectors at the intake ports instead of centrally located. It's a great upgrade for 96 and newer W engines. Check your old dampener, see if the rubber looks like it shifted, if not, just bring it up to TDC and use the dampener you have.

There isNo crank sensor and it has a large metal upper intake. Can I upgrade to CSFI if I change COmputer and will a 96 computer plugin???????

Thanks again
mike

Mike,

At the newest, yours is a 95 CMFI system with OBD 1.5 engine controls. 96 and newer use OBDII... whole new ballgame. The computer system is totally different along with a different injection system and more, (and different) sensors and actuators. Not to mention wire harnesses and PCM. I suppose it could be upgraded but, lotsa money and time to do it.

I apologize for not asking what year your vehicle is... The pictures above are for OBD 1.5 & OBDII, and depending on what system yours has, the distributor might or might not look like yours. 95 was a changeover year and could have any one of 3 different systems. Under the dash on the driver side is a connector, which one looks like yours:

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/Diagconnectors.jpg

Yep......Its OBDII and A 1995.

The lower connector in the picture is used on OBD1.5 and OBD2. If there is no crankshaft position sensor at the dampener, your engine is OBD 1.5 with CMFI. It is a step up from OBD1 and it will give four character DTC's that start with "P" rather than the 2 digit DTC's. OBD1.5 does not have all of the capabilities that OBD2 has, and it requires an enhanced code reader or scan tool to retrieve DTC's.

Moving right along here.... Does your distributor have 2 electrical connectors on the side and look like this:

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/oldstyledistributor43L.jpg

The harmonic did slip. The new one lined up perfect with the notches on the timing cover. I'll try and start it tonight. I left the light on under the hood and the battery is stone dead. This has to be OBDII, its has a crank sensor and did disply PXXXX codes. The vin suggest its a CPI system. Can I upgrade this to MFI?????? The timing cover is plastic but the upper intake is large and metal.

Mike

Nevermind the picture in my previous post, your distributor does NOT look like that.

Large metal plenum is CMFI.... OBD 1.5, one injector, (batch fired), 6 poppets, nut kit, (fuel lines inside plenum). Requires different lower intake manifold, different plenum, different spider injector pack, different fuel lines to the injector pack, different fuel pump, (higher fuel pressure), different PCM, wire harness, different throttle body, different air intake set up. That's the obvious stuff, there's probably some stuff I can't remember, ;) lotsa work, lotsa money but, it can be done!

Let us know how it starts and runs.

Nevermind the picture in my previous post, your distributor does NOT look like that.

Large metal plenum is CMFI.... OBD 1.5, one injector, (batch fired), 6 poppets, nut kit, (fuel lines inside plenum). Requires different lower intake manifold, different plenum, different spider injector pack, different fuel lines to the injector pack, different fuel pump, (higher fuel pressure), different PCM, wire harness, different throttle body, different air intake set up. That's the obvious stuff, there's probably some stuff I can't remember, ;) lotsa work, lotsa money but, it can be done!

Let us know how it starts and runs.

It started right up ran perfect...Thank god!!!!!!!!!! It does have single injector, 6 poppets, and nut kit. I'll leave it be for now.........

Good! Thanks for posting back with the progress, and the fix. I don't think I've ever seen a dampener slip on a 4.3L guess we have to put that one in the "memory file".