Need Advice 99 Malibu- Timing chain failure 2.4L

My latest project is to replace the 2.4L (“T” engine) on a friend’s 1999 Chevy Malibu. Seems the shop quoted her $4200 for a new engine- I found a used engine with 105K miles on it for $500. But I don’t want the same thing to happen to this engine that happened to the original engine. See, the original engine (135k miles) lost its timing- evidently to a timing chain failure- but I’m not sure what exactly failed- whether it be the chain literally broke, or the tensioner assembly let go somehow. The shop that my friend had it towed to originally had replaced the timing chain, and water pump (since they were in there anyway) and engine still did not run. Then they decided to do some compression checks- it failed miserably- when they took the head off- they discovered numerous broken valves and two pistons with holes busted in them. I am astounded that this professional shop did not realize that this interference engine could be toast- based on the timing chain failure…and they chose to put a chain on it and put it all back together and try to start it without checking this possibility out first.
So long story short- they charged her $600 and gave her back her car with the engine in pieces- they said they can return the timing chain and get the money back.
My biggest concern is to avoid this calamity on the new (used) engine- I have the timing cover off and am planning on replacing the timing chain and tensioner skid plate. The other plastic guides look great. I will install a new water pump as well (the one the shop put in the old engine).
I wish I knew what exactly happened to the old engine- did the chain break, or did the tensioner guide break up into pieces- or did something else happen? Perhaps someone on this forum can tell me what is most common failure mode. Talking to the shop will be futile, since they are no longer friendly to the owner of the car- they are not happy she pulled it out of their care….
Any advice is greatly appreciated- thanks ahead of time….

since the water pump is timing chain driven i would make sure the one the "shop" bought is a new (not reman) water pump and of good quality. that could of been what caused the original timing chain event?

if their is some kind of tensioner, i would replace that to, especially if it is hydraulic. mike

Hi, we just bought and replaced a complete timing chain kit, we also cleaned the oil pump as that was the main problem because its internal vains were blocked with viscous oil, we sync time and start the car Ok, but suddenly in a short period of time of 3 or 4 minutes it started a sound like if the timming chain was loose(bells) despite of the new parts and that we have cleaned the oil pump and added new oil. So I do not know if it could be that the tensioner is not doing presure on the timing chain because the oil is not circulating. So do you think it may be that the engine might be block also like the oil pump with viscous oil and it's not sending it's propper pressure to the hidraulic tenssioner? what can be cause the car to work and suddenly to cause the chain to jump the cranks and go out of time?

What was replaced, besides the chain? Cam sprockets? Crank sprocket? New tensioner shoe? New tensioner? You said plastic guides were ok.....

Was the new tensioner fully extended? Was the engine properly timed? Correct oil filter used?

I don't like the idea that you "cleaned" the oil pump......that pump has to be timed to the balancer shafts......there is actually a little chain coming off that pump, and if you took that apart, there is a bolt to the drive sprocket that should be replaced when removed....never mess with those pumps, unless you have proof the pump is at fault.....this is checked by removing a plug(in the lower block, rear, passenger side) in the oil galley right off the pump, and attaching a mechanical gauge there....

Have you checked the oil pressure in the engine? In the valley on top of the engine on the driver's side, is the oil pressure sender/sensor......attach a mechanical gauge to get pressures, on start up and when the engine starts to make noise.....

The whole chaining kit was replaced (except for the guides): Chain, Cam sprockets, Crank sprocket, tensioner and tensioner shoe(guide pressed by the tensioner).
The engine was properly timed according to this article http://automecanico.com/auto2013/pontiac241.html (it started right away but after a while jumps again).
The oil filter was the one I always use 3506 (dohc 2.4)

Also just to let you know that The serpentine from the previous timing chain tensioner was stuck so that is why I bought at the same time all the chaining kit.
I did not know I had to extend the new tensioner but just mount it as it was bought on the store, can this be the cause?
how do I extend it? does the serpentine has to go out automatically with the oil pressure or do I have to take it out manually after installation?

We have washed the oil pump because its veins (if that is the correct way to say that) as well as the oil pump sieve were completly blocked with viscous oil.
As I remember the oil pump was mounted back the same as when removed; I hardly tried to achieve that but maybe it was lightly moved it can also be that.
Note:the fuel pump has 2 timing points on each sprocket and they were left in the original position (when removed).
We did not replaced the bolt to the drive sprocket. We tighten the chain from the oil pump and adjusted it with its tensioner (the bolt was tighten where its mark was left).

What is the oil pressure for this 2.4 DOHC cavalier/malibu engine?


if is not the correct oil pressure it might be that the engine veins are also blocked? or worse, are the engine valves broken?

Sir, thank you for taking the time to answer.

That link, doesn't really explain how to install the tensioner.....or time the engine......

The bolts you use to lock the cams in place should have no play.....dowels or drill bits are better to use....

Should take the new tensioner apart and lube it......then it has to be ratcheted back..........the crank sprocket should align with the mark......install the chain.....there should no slack between the two cams(you may have to remove the locking bolt on the ex cam to rotate it slightly to install chain to get rid of slack, and then the locking bolt should go back in the cam), or between the intake cam and the crank sprocket.......I use a piece of rubber hose under the crank sprocket, and between the chain on the ex cam and the outside edge of the rear timing cover.......this keeps the chain in place.....now the chain goes around the water pump, and you have slack between the water pump sprocket and the crank sprocket......install the shoe....install the tensioner under it.....

Now, you push down(pry down) on the chain at the free end of the tensioner shoe......by pushing the shoe down, this pushes down the piston of the tensioner and releases it, and it will snap that shoe upward, taking ALL SLACK OUT OF THE CHAIN.......DON'T HAVE YOUR FINGERS NEAR THE SHOE WHEN IT SNAPS BACK.....now remove the two rubber hose pieces that were holding the chain in place.......remove the locking bolts from the cams....install the crank bolt.....now put a socket on the crank bolt and rotate the crank sprocket TWICE (two full turns)and align the mark on the crank with the mark on the rear timing cover(usually the mark on the crank sprocket and the rear cover is off slightly, less than half a tooth, but the locking bolts in the cams must slide in ok).......if the engine is timed correctly, those locking bolts should slide easily into the holes of the cam and the back of the timing cover........while rotating, you should see a tight chain, and no slack.......I use an oil can to lube the chain, and the plastic guides, before putting the cover on....

I have a 1999 chevy Malibu 2.4 that is making noise from the timing chain. I was in the process of taking the timing cover off when the guide on the top of the timing belt was broken. Could this be the noise coming from the timing belt? The timing chain is still tight and looks new. The guy I brought it from said he had it replaced at 90,000 miles. It has 91,000 on it now. Need help on what to do next. Thanks

Well, yes it's possible the guide is making the noise....but you will have to check the timing on the chain/sprockets, and make sure the tensioner is fully extended and keeping the chain tight, before putting that cover back on.......when you rotate the engine(put the crank bolt into the crankshaft and rotate the bolt with a socket setup)....watch the chain to make sure it is tight

If you don't know how to time the engine, this is a good video:

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/24/51/5f/large/0996b43f8024515f.gif

Basically get two drill bits(don't use the fluted ends) that fit the holes in the cams(not tight, just a little loose)......you rotate the engine until the cam holes are near the bottom...then slowly rotate the crank bolt, and push the bits through the holes in the cams into the mating holes of the rear timing cover....they should go in easily, and should not be forced...if one goes in and the other doesn't, it's not properly timed....with both bits in, look at the keyway on the crank sprocket(should be at around 12 o'clock),,,,the dot on the sprocket should line up with the dot on the block above it...if it does, the engine is timed OK......