Heavy Brake Use Left Front Only

My issue started when I noticed a very heavy coating of brake dust forming on the left front wheel. The RF wasn't bad at all, LF basically turned charcoal. I inspected the brakes and noticed the L side was worn down 50% more than the right side. I replaced the caliper and brake hose on the left side, the problem still exists. Then I turned my attention to the right side thinking maybe it wasn't doing it's job and the left was doing all the work (did not get a pull when braking). I replaced the caliper and brake hose on the right side also, flushed the system. Problem still exists. A friend happened to order a new master cylinder for an identical truck and wrecked it before he installed it, he gave it to me for free so I put a new master cylinder on, problem still exists. I scanned the ABS, no codes, had someone look and the proportioning seems to be fine. I bought a new cheap set of pads (on the small chance the LF pads were defective), problem STILL exists.

I'm out of ideas, what could it be? Anyone? Everything has been replaced.

Did you replace the slide pins, grommets, and pad shims (usually bonded to the pad backing plates) as well? Sticking due to wear from these can keep a caliper from retracting or doing so unevenly. I prefer to use pads with stainless steel shims so that they don't rust and cause them to be forced out of alignment. I also coat the backs with a pasty squeal-stop and include the shim edges to seal water out and prevent rusting in between the pad and shim.

You're right about both. Heavy wear on one side (left) is usually from two causes: 1) the left side sliders or piston is sticking and not retracting, or 2) the right side is stuck and not engaging. You've replaced both sides so it should be resolved, but it isn't. One thing you ought to check is the banjo bolt itself...is the little hole in it plugged from rust?

Then you move to the hoses: Is one failing and expanding? Is the other collapsing internally? Again, both have been replaced so it should be resolved, but it isn't. Though unlikely, check to be sure there are no kinks in it.

Do you have different types of tires on the front wheels? Is the truck in alignment? Any steering issues? You note that it doesn't pull to one side when braking, which is odd, but what about driving otherwise?

Next, notice any areas of significant rust along the brake lines? This can be a sign of impending leakage or the rust can form and expand into the tubing, choking fluid flow.

Good luck and keep us informed!

Both banjo bolts were replaced during the other attempts. I had a tie-rod replaced about a month ago and how have a pull to the right that I believe is due to tire wear from the bad tie-rod, however the brake dust issue dates back to well before the replacement and pull started.

since the braking does not cause a pull on the steering I believe the problem would be a rotor that is rusted badly. if the rotor surface is getting corroded this will produce more dust and pad wear. since the brake effort is equal on both sides you get no pull on braking.


the right drift on the alignment is more of a camber issue or ball joint. this can also be from the front end sagging on the right side. this will change camber and cause the right drift.


If you lift both front wheels off ground using a C clamp see if the piston push back is equal. then remove pads. then work the calipers fully installed with no pads and compare both sides for equal sliding.

on installing pads they should set into the caliper with ease no great force to seat the pads, if hard to seat use a file and file the STEEL backing plate to allow these pads to seat easy in to the caliper.


when I replace pads or do any brake work I open the caliper bleed screw 1 turn and then push the piston back slowly to dump all the damaged piston brake fluid as this fluid can foul up the brake system with contamination.

use 2 persons to do a good pressure bleed.or use a piece of 2X4 between the front seat and the brake pedal......................