Dump Thing - Dropped Socket in GM 5.7
RPush
10-04-2010, 10:51 AM
I did a dumb thing -- and I knew better!:banghead:
I was nearing the end of replacing the notorious leaking intake manifold on my “adopted” 98 Yukon. I had neglected to align the crank to TDC and hadn’t marked the distributor rotor position. So, after turning the crank to TDC, I then had to turn the oil pump shaft so I could re-install the distributor.
Many of my vast assortment of tools are still in NH. I didn’t have a screwdriver long enough. Against my better judgment, I got a screwdriver bit and put it in a socket adapter on a 1/4” extension. I tested it and it seemed tight enough. I crawled up on my ladder platform over the engine compartment and carefully reached the bit/adapter/extension down the distributor hole and successfully turned the oil pump shaft. The bit/adapter came back up. But, the distributor still wouldn’t seat. So, I tried again to better align the shaft. This time, the extension came back empty!:frown:
I tried a magnetic wand and came back empty. I tried looking down the distributor hole with my super-whamo-dyne CobraCam USB flexible inspection camera with the usual underwhelming results – I could only see the top of the oil pump shaft. I finally broke down and removed the newly gasketed intake manifold, fortunately apparently without ruining the expensive FelPro gaskets.
I could now see the distributor drive gear on the crankshaft and the top of the oil pump shaft. My magnetic wand still didn’t catch anything. It appears that there are holes in the block casting beside the boss where the top of the oil pump shaft rides. My guess is that the bit/adapter fell down a hole and probably made it to the oil pan, or maybe landed on the crankshaft oil deflector.
I would like to have the adapter back, but the Yukon it a little heavy to turn upside down and shake. I’m reluctant to drop the oil pan and go fishin. My “DW” is concerned about the consequences of leaving a “foreign object” loose in an engine.
I know surgeons would face vast mal practice suits if they left a tool in a patient.
So, I’m soliciting advice:
Did the 7/16 dia x 1 ½ inch long bit/adapter probably make it to the oil pan?
How long could it ride around before causing consequences?
What and when would consequences likely occur?
If anyone has a GM 350 engine or short block opened up, I’d appreciate it if you would drop a 7/16 x 1 ½ piece down the distributor hole and see where it goes.
Laugh all you want at my expense. But you don’t have to say, “Dummy you really messed up!” – I already know that.:screwy:
I was nearing the end of replacing the notorious leaking intake manifold on my “adopted” 98 Yukon. I had neglected to align the crank to TDC and hadn’t marked the distributor rotor position. So, after turning the crank to TDC, I then had to turn the oil pump shaft so I could re-install the distributor.
Many of my vast assortment of tools are still in NH. I didn’t have a screwdriver long enough. Against my better judgment, I got a screwdriver bit and put it in a socket adapter on a 1/4” extension. I tested it and it seemed tight enough. I crawled up on my ladder platform over the engine compartment and carefully reached the bit/adapter/extension down the distributor hole and successfully turned the oil pump shaft. The bit/adapter came back up. But, the distributor still wouldn’t seat. So, I tried again to better align the shaft. This time, the extension came back empty!:frown:
I tried a magnetic wand and came back empty. I tried looking down the distributor hole with my super-whamo-dyne CobraCam USB flexible inspection camera with the usual underwhelming results – I could only see the top of the oil pump shaft. I finally broke down and removed the newly gasketed intake manifold, fortunately apparently without ruining the expensive FelPro gaskets.
I could now see the distributor drive gear on the crankshaft and the top of the oil pump shaft. My magnetic wand still didn’t catch anything. It appears that there are holes in the block casting beside the boss where the top of the oil pump shaft rides. My guess is that the bit/adapter fell down a hole and probably made it to the oil pan, or maybe landed on the crankshaft oil deflector.
I would like to have the adapter back, but the Yukon it a little heavy to turn upside down and shake. I’m reluctant to drop the oil pan and go fishin. My “DW” is concerned about the consequences of leaving a “foreign object” loose in an engine.
I know surgeons would face vast mal practice suits if they left a tool in a patient.
So, I’m soliciting advice:
Did the 7/16 dia x 1 ½ inch long bit/adapter probably make it to the oil pan?
How long could it ride around before causing consequences?
What and when would consequences likely occur?
If anyone has a GM 350 engine or short block opened up, I’d appreciate it if you would drop a 7/16 x 1 ½ piece down the distributor hole and see where it goes.
Laugh all you want at my expense. But you don’t have to say, “Dummy you really messed up!” – I already know that.:screwy:
maxwedge
10-04-2010, 03:13 PM
I would get a strong magnet, very strong, and drain the oil, move the magnet around the oil pan and eventually bring it to the drain plug hole and see if you can see it.
MagicRat
10-04-2010, 09:43 PM
I would get a strong magnet, very strong, and drain the oil, move the magnet around the oil pan and eventually bring it to the drain plug hole and see if you can see it.
The socket is probably too big to come out the drain plug, but if you actually find it in the pan, you are okay. It will not harm anything just rolling around in the pan. I have found various wrenches, sockets, nut and bolts in pans over he years..... even a fuel pump arm.
But it may cause trouble in the crank deflector. If you can't find it in the pan, removing the pan to get it is prudent.
The socket is probably too big to come out the drain plug, but if you actually find it in the pan, you are okay. It will not harm anything just rolling around in the pan. I have found various wrenches, sockets, nut and bolts in pans over he years..... even a fuel pump arm.
But it may cause trouble in the crank deflector. If you can't find it in the pan, removing the pan to get it is prudent.
RPush
10-07-2010, 03:26 PM
The 98 Yukon is running now -- purrs like a proverbial "kitten" and I'm happy as a proverbial "pig in s*#@" -- for now, let's hope it keeps on. So far no leaks or codes.:smooch:
I took the advise of a friend who I sent a link to my first posting:
"Subject: RE: What's Your Advice?
If it is in the base no problem if it is in a casting hole still no problem if it is where something is going to hit it a really big noise .but still no real problem
Turn motor over slowly with starter with ignition disconnected so it will not start if it binds up you will have to drop the base and find it. Unless you drop the base you are going to have to buy another on if it will not come out the base plug hole. Most base plugs have a magnet to catch metal filings so will eventually catch and hold the socket
good luck
bill "
I cranked it several times with the coil wire disconnected and there was no sign of binding. I'll drive it a hundred or more miles and then change the oil and see if the bit and adapter come out the drain.
I did have a few drops of oil on the front cross member. I hope those were residue from the power steering hose I had replaced immediately before starting the intake manifold job.
Much credit goes to "Suburban-97" in the Chevy Suburban forum.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=441290&highlight=intake+manifold
I took the advise of a friend who I sent a link to my first posting:
"Subject: RE: What's Your Advice?
If it is in the base no problem if it is in a casting hole still no problem if it is where something is going to hit it a really big noise .but still no real problem
Turn motor over slowly with starter with ignition disconnected so it will not start if it binds up you will have to drop the base and find it. Unless you drop the base you are going to have to buy another on if it will not come out the base plug hole. Most base plugs have a magnet to catch metal filings so will eventually catch and hold the socket
good luck
bill "
I cranked it several times with the coil wire disconnected and there was no sign of binding. I'll drive it a hundred or more miles and then change the oil and see if the bit and adapter come out the drain.
I did have a few drops of oil on the front cross member. I hope those were residue from the power steering hose I had replaced immediately before starting the intake manifold job.
Much credit goes to "Suburban-97" in the Chevy Suburban forum.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=441290&highlight=intake+manifold
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