05 Suburban transmission pan removal

I want to change the filter on my 05 Suburban and I'm wondering if I can drop the pan without removing the the shift linkage bracket? If I do need to remove the bracket does anyone recall the size of the torx needed to do so? Why can't they use a regular bolt....

Also, is there anything I need to be aware of in removing the lower tranny cooler line from the radiator? Looks a little different than I'm use to.

Thanks

The shift linkage bracket is bolted to the left pan rail and the trans. You'll have to at least loosen the bolt in the trans to swing the bracket out of the way.

The cooler lines use a quick-connect/quick-release fitting. There is a release tool for the fittings. The tool is available at many tool and auto parts suppliers.

Thanks to Wisconsin winters I can't loosen the bolts and more afraid of snapping a head off a bolt. I hope I can take the shift cable off the bracket and maneuver the pan around it.

Thanks to Wisconsin winters I can't loosen the bolts and more afraid of snapping a head off a bolt. I hope I can take the shift cable off the bracket and maneuver the pan around it.

the torx fasteners are tough to get at. I use a 1/4 in rachet with the torx bit . I have a full kit of these torx bits forget what size . why buy one ?

since you live in the rust belt you must have at all times penitrating oil. wash and wire brush the area , that needs to be worked on if rusted dirty ,then spray these oils on your work fasteners . may take a week of oil application to work into the metal.

when these are removed then use a small amount of anti seize paste on these torx threads. next time it will be no big deal.

the pan gasket should be the reuasable type/rubber then torque to 7 ft lbs . then re torque after a few days . with this gasket I so far have reused this 4X.

many have messed up the connections to the solenoids with the pan install/removal so drop straight down ..

remember to use the new GM dexron VI . do not use any dexron III this product wil damage your transmission..

WD-40 IS NOT PENITRATING OIL !

Thanks for the thoughts, the wiring you mention must be in the pan? I can get a locking pliers on the bolt with more leverage than a torx bit. I have some penitrating oil and will give it a try. If I knew I could get away with it I would tweak the bracket out of the way and bring it back into place when done.

J Cat did you see my post on draining the radiator? any insight on that one. Trying to get some preventative maintenance done and this is driving me nuts!

The torx for the bracket is a torx plus 30 a normal t35 torx from a foreign set will work. Some hardwares sell Eazy Power bits they make a T35.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_9605.htm
These look identical to an OTC but you have to mail in for a warranty.
Remember SK filed or is going to file for bankruptcy so the warranty will be voided.
Remember the drain plug is undersized. If it wants to round off just pull the pan. The bolt is like a toilet plunger and is almost collapsed use a small side angle grinder just grind the head off go slow and when you get close to the pan it should break off. Plenty of bolt on the inside to remove with a small pair of channel locks.

Thanks for the info on the torx bit. My pan does not have a drain plug so it will be a little more of a mess. The shift cable bracket bolts are giving me the grief.

Thanks for the info on the torx bit. My pan does not have a drain plug so it will be a little more of a mess. The shift cable bracket bolts are giving me the grief.
The torque converter and bell housing use a TP50 and TP55.
The same company makes a 9680 torx plus tamper 5 point
The seats take a VimV620 socket.

If I want to exchange the tranny fluid by disconnecting a cooler line at the radiator, would it be the bottom line that is pumping fluid to the cooler? I was hoping not to disconnect both lines if it was not needed. If I do disconnect both lines how much if any will drain static out of the radiator. I'm thinking in regards of the mess factor.

I would like to do this myself, but also considering taking it to a shop that will exchange the fluid without flushing.

Still fighting the bolt issue, I think I might have to drop the front driveshaft to get better access to them if I continue this project.

... If I knew I could get away with it I would tweak the bracket out of the way and bring it back into place when done...


Had the same difficulties last year and after breaking my torx bit I just tweaked the bracket out of the way.
I know this is not the correct way but it worked just fine.

If I want to exchange the tranny fluid by disconnecting a cooler line at the radiator, would it be the bottom line that is pumping fluid to the cooler? I was hoping not to disconnect both lines if it was not needed. If I do disconnect both lines how much if any will drain static out of the radiator. I'm thinking in regards of the mess factor.

I would like to do this myself, but also considering taking it to a shop that will exchange the fluid without flushing.

Still fighting the bolt issue, I think I might have to drop the front driveshaft to get better access to them if I continue this project.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_A381.htm

If I want to exchange the tranny fluid by disconnecting a cooler line at the radiator, would it be the bottom line that is pumping fluid to the cooler? I was hoping not to disconnect both lines if it was not needed. If I do disconnect both lines how much if any will drain static out of the radiator. I'm thinking in regards of the mess factor.

I would like to do this myself, but also considering taking it to a shop that will exchange the fluid without flushing.

Still fighting the bolt issue, I think I might have to drop the front driveshaft to get better access to them if I continue this project.

I use bits that fit into the 1/4 ratchet socket very stubby. also with u joint if necessary. these will get those bracket torx fasteners out.

Might have another issue, looks like I have a aux cooler since I quickly followed a tranny line to the front of the radiator and then it exits to a line that runs to the back of the radiator at the bottom. I think this might have a thermostat in it that might prevent me from doing the exchange the way I had in mind. Not sure.

I tried a tamper proof torx bit that fits a 1/4 in socket but I think I might have rounded the hole.

I think if I take a pick or dental tool to the spring clip that hold the tranny line secure I can remove them that way also?

Might have another issue, looks like I have a aux cooler since I quickly followed a tranny line to the front of the radiator and then it exits to a line that runs to the back of the radiator at the bottom. I think this might have a thermostat in it that might prevent me from doing the exchange the way I had in mind. Not sure.

I tried a tamper proof torx bit that fits a 1/4 in socket but I think I might have rounded the hole.

I think if I take a pick or dental tool to the spring clip that hold the tranny line secure I can remove them that way also?

you must not use those tamper torx with the hole in the middle they break tooooo easy..get a good set of torx bits . then using a pick clean out the torx head holes. then try to loosen with even pressure. do not use any sudden movement on the rachet.

vice grip on head can loosen also , then remove with the ratchet.

use anti seize on install..

Yes, removing the hairpin clip will allow you to remove the line from the fitting. When removing the clip, try to restrain it to prevent it from flying across the garage into someplace it will never be found, or your eye.

Might have another issue, looks like I have a aux cooler since I quickly followed a tranny line to the front of the radiator and then it exits to a line that runs to the back of the radiator at the bottom. I think this might have a thermostat in it that might prevent me from doing the exchange the way I had in mind. Not sure.

I tried a tamper proof torx bit that fits a 1/4 in socket but I think I might have rounded the hole.

I think if I take a pick or dental tool to the spring clip that hold the tranny line secure I can remove them that way also?
I have removed the back bolt with channel locks moved the bracket with a screwdriver to gain axcess. J Cat is using 1/2 cut torx which will fit the bolt.
A normal T30 torx will not pull the bolt. It takes a T35,not in a normal set,a ribe or a TP30. Torx are tapered you can grind off appx. 1/2 of the tip.
I saved the bolts and installed normal bolts and tried different types after the bolt was removed.